Hodinkee
Stephen McDonnell knew that MB&F's first-ever chronograph could have a flyback function; it just took a little while to make it. But when they did, they couldn't just make the same watch as before. We put the two head-to-head.
Monochrome
The new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (for First Omega in Space) is the perfect example of a watch that’s not particularly spectacular, groundbreaking or innovative. But more often than not, a great watch doesn’t need to be a game-changer. The 2024 Speedmaster FOiS comes in continuity to a concept introduced in 2012, a vintage-inspired watch celebrating […]
Monochrome
Zenith stole the headlines in 1969 with the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, aptly named ‘El Primero’. With less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy watch with an angular octagonal case, groovy orange bakelite bezel, and impressive water-resistance. Nicknamed the ‘vault’, the Defy Plongeur ref. 3648 was a monster of the abyss capable […]
SJX Watches
One of the most valuable watches to go on the block this auction season is the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC. Part of Phillips’ Reloaded auction taking place on November 8, 2024, the Zenith-powered Daytona is the original “Rainbow”, having been produced in 1994, some 18 years before the serially-produced Daytona “Rainbow” was introduced. Like all automatic Daytona models prior to 2000, this Daytona “Rainbow” is powered by the cal. 4030, which is a Zenith El Primero modified by Rolex. But this Daytona is unique in having a singular model reference of 16599 followed by the suffix “SAAEC”, short for saphir arc-en-ciel, French for “sapphire rainbow”. A rainbow history Though the Daytona “Rainbow” is perhaps the most famous gem-set Rolex model today, it took a while to catch on when it was introduced. It debuted as a regular production model in 2012 with the Daytona ref. 116598RBOW in yellow gold and ref. 116599RBOW in white gold. The Daytona ref. 116599RBOW in white gold At launch the Daytona “Rainbow” was not the object of frenzied desire as it is now, but by 2018 it was sought after. And that year Rolex debuted the Daytona ref. 116595RBOW in Everose gold that boasted the upgrade of baguette-cut rainbow indices. The facelift was also applied to the yellow and white gold versions, both of which now sport baguette-cut rainbow indices as well. As with the first generation model, variants with gem-set dials and bracelets also exist. The Day...
Fratello
The Omega Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69, also known as the “Tribute to Astronauts” watch, was the first Speedmaster in 18K yellow gold and intended for all active NASA astronauts, the US president and vice president, and several officials. In total, Omega gifted 31 of these watches to the NASA astronauts, most of them during the official […] Visit David Scott’s Speedmaster Professional “Tribute to Astronauts” BA145.022-69 to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
With all the talk around Bremont’s new lineup, not to mention the change in direction, we wanted to let the watch do the talking, so we’ve gone hands-on with the all-new Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph to see for ourselves! What We Love: The vintage-style numerals The dial is easy to read at a glance The new bracelet design is comfortable and looks great What We Don’t: The watch is on the thicker side, so wears on the larger side Lack of micro-adjust on the clasp and bracelet The lack of a screw-down crown on an explorers sports watch Overall Rating: 8 / 10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Bremont is a brand not without some controversy, well, at least this year when they and CEO Davide Cerrato revealed an all-new brand identity and logo, along with new releases at Watches & Wonders this year. Since then, we have spoken at length with Davide, (stay tuned for that interview in a few weeks), and while time will ultimately let the public see this all come together, the way he describes it, his grand plan makes sense. That being said, whilst the changes took many off-guard, us included, rather than getting involved in the online rhetoric, we thought we would do what we do best – get our hands on the new range and see how the watches are in real life, in the hands and on the wrist. After all, you can never really give an opinion on a piece until you’ve had experience with it and even more so when you can spend consid...
Quill & Pad
A foudroyante hand is visually spectacular as it is running faster than the eye can follow – foudroyante is French for lightning fast! But the complication uses a lot of energy, or did until the Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT.
Fratello
Ayrton Senna da Silva (1960–1994) was much more than a brilliant Brazilian racing driver. He was a unique talent with a particular character and an inspiration to many. This year marks the 30th anniversary of his tragic death following a crash at the Imola circuit. Later this month, the six-episode Netflix series Senna will come […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon × Senna - In Honor Of A Formula 1 Icon Who Passed Away 30 Years Ago to read the full article.
Fratello
Around this time two years ago, Seiko introduced its first trio of Speedtimer Solar Chronograph models. The series combines vintage-inspired looks with modern technology at an affordable price, making it a tempting proposition that many watch enthusiasts embraced. Since then, the line has been slowly expanding with variations in different sizes and colorways. The newest […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC953 European Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer is introducing a third generation of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in collaboration with the Senna brand, a commemorative company dedicated to the late Ayrton Senna’s legendary career as three time Grand Prix world champion. Senna’s racing legacy is intertwined with the watch world and has always conjured images of the TAG Heuer 6000 Senna Limited Edition in the minds of collectors. This was the very first watch that Ayrton produced together with TAG Heuer, and he was still with us at the beginning of its conception to have a say in its design. In 2018 TAG Heuer released the first Carrera chronograph tourbillon editions, followed by another iteration in 2019. While many of us are quite fond of the original designs that feature a very distinct era specific aesthetic, such as small case sizes with heavily rounded edges, these new models are extremely modern in contrast. Launching today is the reference CBU5081.FT6274 – a serious chronograph watch with a grade 2 titanium case, ceramic tachymeter bezel that can measure up to 400 kmh, and a display of TAG Heuer watchmaking prowess in the form of a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It doesn’t get much more contemporary sporty than a watch like this, using cutting edge materials and high horology watchmaking techniques such as its fully skeletonized dial and the tourbillon itself. The yellow, blue, and green accents each have their spot around the dial of the watch, aiding in reading the elapsed time of the ch...
Hodinkee
With the brand's first flying tourbillon, first chronograph, and much more, this is a watch that Greubel fans have been dying for.
Revolution
Fratello
It’s safe to say that 1969 was a strong year on all fronts, including for the watch industry. If the Moon landing is not enough, think of the first automatic chronograph conquering wrists or quartz watches waving their hands to them with a sneer of the coming revolution. That was the general context when Swiss […] Visit #TBT André Le Marquand’s Timeless Spaceman Audacieuse to read the full article.
Monochrome
TAG Heuer and Senna Brand team up to celebrate Brazilian racing driver Ayrton Senna with a limited edition chronograph and tourbillon. As the watch brand most closely associated with motorsports, TAG Heuer’s partnership with Senna began in 1988 and continued until his tragic death in 1994 at the San Marino Grand Prix. On the 30th […]
SJX Watches
Legendary Formula 1 champion Ayrton Senna was a longtime TAG Heuer ambassador up until his death in 1994. On the 30th anniversary of his passing, the Brazilian driver is coming back to the fore with TAG Heuer unveiling the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna just in time for the premiere of the Netflix series Senna. Based on the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport, the Senna edition is presented in titanium, carbon composite, and the colours of the Brazilian flag. It bears the driver’s emblem on the carbon composite and hour register at nine, while the case back depicts a helmeted Senna. Senna himself frequently wore the TAG Heuer S/el ref. S25.706C multi-function, which will also be seen in the upcoming television series Initial thoughts TAG Heuer is in some ways an underdog – because of its many affordable offerings, its higher-end models sometimes don’t get enough attention. The Carrera Dato “Glassbox”, for instance, is a vintage-inspired but original design that’s appealing and powered by an in-house movement. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is an integrated chronograph with automatic winding, plus a flying tourbillon, albeit an industrial movement. The big and bold styling isn’t the retro-inspired design that Heuer enthusiasts appreciate, but the Senna edition is executed well and priced right. Personally speaking, the Senna edition is not my style - there are too Senna elements in the design, unlike the low-key regular-production version. However...
Revolution
Hodinkee
CASIO’s latest GMC-B2100 reimagines the 2100 series with a full analog chronograph, blending durability and precision in an evolution of signature style.
SJX Watches
Having been acquired last year by Breitling’s private equity owners, Universal Genève is now officially back in business with both a new chief as well as website – though the new watches will only arrive in autumn 2026. Breitling chief executive Georges Kern takes the same role at Universal, but the managing director will be Gregory Bruttin, a two-decade veteran of Roger Dubuis who was its longtime head of product. An engineer and constructor by training, Mr Bruttin will oversee the development of Universal’s new collection of watches. A once-storied brand founded in 1894, Universal has been dormant for a decade or more. While its historical timepieces like the Tri-Compax and A. Cairelli split-seconds are desirable, the brand has not launched a hit product in a long time. The Tri-Compax Mr Bruttin has no doubt been tasked to fix that. His technical credentials are impeccable – he led the creation of an impressive stable of in-house movements at Roger Dubuis, though his past work was far from the heritage-focused brand that Universal will be. While challenging, Mr Bruttin’s job will be made easier by the fact that Breitling has its own manufacture and corresponding in-house chronograph calibres. The 1950s split-seconds chronograph made for the Italian air force While the launch of the rebooted brand’s first collection is still two years away, Universal is embarking on an immediate plan of brand building. In November the brand will mark the 70th anniversary of t...
WatchAdvice
With major wrist presence and even more cool factor, we’ve gone hands-on with the 140th Anniversary Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar! What We Love: The rose gold and black colour combination looks great The skeleton dial gives depth and character to the piece The Rouleaux-style rubber strap is comfortable and so easy to wear. What We Don’t: The onion crown can be a little finicky to unscrew/screw It won’t fit or suit all wrist sizes being 44mm The dial can appear busy at first glance Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 As you may well have heard, this year marks the 140th Anniversary of Breitling. It’s a big birthday for the brand, now headed up by Georges Kern, who in recent years has gone back through the history of Breitling and helped to re-define the brand. With new models that harken back to its past, and the vision that Leon Breitling had all the way back in 1884, through to when his son, Gaston took over the business and launched their patented chronograph in 1932, to the days of the icons under Willy Breitling, it’s no wonder there is such a large and illustrious back catalogue to take inspiration from! So celebrate its 140th Anniversary, Breitling released three perpetual calendars, at Geneva Watch Days 2024 – A Premier, Navitimer and Super Chronomat. According to Georges Kern, they couldn’t do justice to the 140 years of history with just one watch, so they went with th...
SJX Watches
Porter, a Japanese cult brand famous for its functional nylon bags, has lent its signature colours to Zenith to create the Pilot Central Automatic Porter and the Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph Porter. The new Pilot duo retain the familiar aviation-inspired design, but in green with orange accents, including for the first time a case in khaki green ceramic. Both models are delivered with two straps: a conventional Cordura-effect rubber strap and a green nylon strap made by Porter. Initial thoughts While the Pilot Porter isn’t an iconic classic like Zenith’s El Primero, it is a unique take on the traditional aviator’s watch that is different but still functional, not unlike Porter bags that are popular for their no-frills quality. The green and orange livery is appealing and avoids the usual pilot’s watch look, but remains entirely legible and utilitarian. Priced at US$11,300 for the time-only variant and US$15,500 for the chronograph, the Pilot Porter is priced comparably to the equivalent regular-production Pilot models. Though both are more expensive than Zenith’s offerings in steel, they are priced reasonably enough considering the material and movement, as well as the competition. Khaki green Porter is the most famous label owned by Yoshida & Co., a Japanese maker of luggage and bags. Usually in dark-coloured nylon with contrast-colour lining, Porter bags are multi-pocketed and useful (and also quite pricey for nylon bags). The Pilot Porter models adopt th...
If you’ve ever attended a Windup Watch Fair or spent much time on pretty much any watch enthusiast blog, there’s a pretty decent chance you know who Jonathan Ferrer is. Not only is he the founder of and designer behind Brew Watch Co., he’s also a great friend of Worn & Wound. We were delighted to meet him at his office just a couple weeks ago to get up close and person with him and his new Metric Star Chronograph, a watch full of both nostalgia and charm. The post Lookbook: An Afternoon with Jonathan Ferrer and the Brew Metric Star Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
It has become a classic pattern for Porsche Design. Porsche, the car brand, launches a new car and at the same time, PD presents its own vision of the matching timepiece, with the idea of having the perfect combination of vehicle and watch. Last week, Porsche (cars) released its latest editions of the 911 GT3 […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex Yacht-Master occupies a prominent but, for many, difficult-to-define area within the company’s overall portfolio. It’s regarded as a popular dress watch but is firmly positioned within the “Professional” collection. It looks a lot like a Submariner but isn’t really a dive watch, so it’s really not like a Submariner at all. It’s designed as a men’s watch but has become a canvas for some very feminine executions. And unlike other Rolex models that offer an original “I” and a second-generation “II” version, like the GMT-Master and Explorer, the Yacht-Master I and II are scarcely related in their design or functions at all. And yet, the Yacht-Master remains a top-tier timepiece both for Rolex and its legions of fans, and in its relatively short span on the market has welcomed a number of innovative materials and technologies into the Rolex fold. Read on to discover more about the Rolex Yacht-Master (in all its various versions) and what makes the model unique among its Oyster Perpetual brethren. 1967 - 1969 - The Prototype: Cosmograph Yacht-Master Rolex Cosmograph Yacht-Master, circa 1967 (photo: Rolex Magazine.com) While the Yacht-Master as we know it today traces its genesis only to 1992, the name appeared on a Rolex dial several decades before - on a watch that resembled more an evolution of the Daytona than of the Submariner - indicating that a sailing-themed watch was something that Rolex had been tinkering with as an organization for...
Worn & Wound
Bremont has undergone a drastic brand transformation in the last year or so, moving away from what many would consider their rather reserved British design language to something more daring and youthful. The Terra Nova could really be considered the focal point of this transition, a design nobody was expecting, with its oval cushion case, large stylized Arabic numerals, and sub-dials rivaling the contrast found on some of the most die-hard chronographs on the market. During one of the busiest watch release times of the year, Bremont has quietly unveiled two new variants of the Terra Nova in collaboration with renowned climber, explorer, and photographer Jimmy Chin. One with a full 18ct rose gold case limited to only 15 pieces, and one with rose gold accents limited to 100 pieces. The design of these watches is also inspired by military pocket watches from the 20th century, giving the watch a nostalgic exterior appearance but with the capabilities one would expect from a feature packed tool watch. While I found the Terra Nova Power Reserve to be a rather polarizing design when I had a chance to go hands-on with one earlier this year, I feel that this chronograph version brings a level of organization to the dial and case not found on the other variants – with the full gold and gold accented appearance highlighting these aspects in a positive way. Bremont decided on the BE-50AV caliber to power this watch, which is actually based on the ETA 7750 and heavily modified to...
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