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Dive Watches · Page 119

MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial Time+Tide
May 23, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial

Keaton Time Co. is another new brand from Singapore, that’s fast becoming a veritable hotbed of horological innovation with the likes of Zelos and BOLDR already making waves. Keaton’s debut watch Keris is unlike anything I’ve seen in a long time. You can forget about slim vintage, forget about creamy lume, hell, forget about the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Want crazy value and creativity? Your next watch should be a microbrand – here are 5 brands to start you off Time+Tide
May 22, 2021

Want crazy value and creativity? Your next watch should be a microbrand – here are 5 brands to start you off

Five years ago, Thor Svaboe got in touch with a Singaporean brand called Zelos to enquire about buying a bronze-cased Hammerhead diver with a meteorite dial. Being a piece of asteroid that exploded millions of years old and subsequently plummeted to earth, a meteorite is, of course, an extremely rare material. But this cosmic exclusivity … ContinuedThe post Want crazy value and creativity? Your next watch should be a microbrand – here are 5 brands to start you off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium SJX Watches
May 19, 2021

Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium

Launched just earlier in the year, the Longines Avigation BigEye in titanium is a follow up to the original, which was historically faithful in terms of the design. The new titanium version, however, is more compelling. The titanium BigEye retains the same design, but gets a new look with the blue dial and titanium case. Both substantially change its look and feel for the better, while retaining the usual affordability of Longines’ many remakes. Initial thoughts The new Avigation BigEye departs from the typical Longines formula for remakes, which to faithfully reproduce as far as possible, right down to the spotting on old dials. In contrast, the Avigation BigEye in titanium preserves the design of the remake, but renders the dial in a clearly modern texture and colour. And of course the case is titanium. Notably, the new Avigation BigEye, along with other recent remakes like the Legend Diver in bronze, appear to mark a shift in Longines’ strategy for its historically-inspired watches. Instead of concentrating merely on one-for-one replicas, Longines is making them more interesting with modern colours and materials. That’s a good thing, especially given the obvious fact that Longines’ designers have shown themselves to possess a good eye. They manage to tweak existing designs while preserving the spirit of the original, as demonstrated by the BigEye in titanium. The result is a lightweight, and good looking watch. It does have the shortcomings of the steel versio...

Antiques Roadshow guest tears up after discovering value of dad’s vintage Rolex “Red” Submariner Time+Tide
May 17, 2021

Antiques Roadshow guest tears up after discovering value of dad’s vintage Rolex “Red” Submariner

For anyone who collects vintage watches, Antiques Roadshow is like whale song, or the sound of rain on a tin roof – ASMR for those with an undiagnosed hoarding condition. Don’t worry, I’m describing myself too. It’s the public sharing of an almost entirely forgotten history of rare and beautiful objects, the knowledge of which … ContinuedThe post Antiques Roadshow guest tears up after discovering value of dad’s vintage Rolex “Red” Submariner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum SJX Watches
May 17, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum

Very much the fashion of today, sports watches with integrated bracelets have proliferated rapidly at every level of the price spectrum. At the more accessible end is the Bell & Ross BR 05 launched two years ago and now available in three formats: time-only, chronograph, and skeleton. Continuing a glow-in-the-dark theme established by several recent models, Bell & Ross (B&R) now unveils the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum. Legible in the dark Initial thoughts Though the BR 05 was contentious because of its design, I’m a fan. The square case – with perfectly aligned bezel screws – evoke B&R’s signature watches like the BR 01 and BR 03, making the BR 05 instantly recognisable. And it is executed well, with strong finishing on the case and bracelet considering the price. The most striking BR 05 model is arguably the skeleton variant, and that remains true with the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum. Revealing most of the movement, including key bits such as the balance wheel and mainspring, the skeleton is a good looker. The BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum to be more attractive than its predecessors, including last year’s iteration in blue. It has a tactical feel thanks to the all-black movement, bringing to mind the recent BR 03 Diver Military and feels true to the brand’s history of watches for military and police personnel. Notably, the new Skeleton Nightlum has a clear dial, in contrast to the blue-tinted dial found on last year’s Skeleton Blue. The clear finish gives the Sk...

VIDEO: The Bausele OceanMoon IV is an Australian-made diver built for the surf and the sand Time+Tide
May 15, 2021

VIDEO: The Bausele OceanMoon IV is an Australian-made diver built for the surf and the sand

There are only a few watch brands that call Australia home, but one of them is Bausele in Sydney whose timepieces take some inspiration from the land they were born in. The Bausele OceanMoon IV is the latest release in the collection of dive watches that have been in the brand’s catalogue for more than … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Bausele OceanMoon IV is an Australian-made diver built for the surf and the sand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: The Rolex Chronergy System SJX Watches
May 14, 2021

In-Depth: The Rolex Chronergy System

Rolex launched Chronergy – essentially a mechanical ecosystem for optimal mechanical performance – with the cal. 3255 in the top-of-the-line Day-Date 40 that made its debut in 2015. Six years on, Rolex has upgraded practically its entire line up with latest-generation, Chronergy-equipped cal. 32XX family, including its most affordable offerings. Chronergy movements are found in the Datejust (cal. 3235) and Oyster Perpetual (cal. 3230), and also the entry-level sports watches, like last year’s Submariner ref. 124060 (cal. 3230). Chronergy is made up of 14 patents covering every aspect of a movement from power source to regulator, but a fundamental element is its escapement. And the Chronergy escapement actually continues a long-forgotten journey that began some fifty years ago on the other side of the world. Still sound at 300 years old Invented in the mid 1750s by Thomas Mudge (1715-1794), the lever escapement was arguably the necessary iteration of the deadbeat escapement once it was miniaturised for a watch. Having been conceived by George Graham (1673-1751) as a refinement of the anchor escapement in pendulum clocks, the deadbeat escapement was unsuited to the delicacy of watch proportions. In the lever escapement, impulse is provided to the balance via a lever, which is in turn propelled by the force of the escape wheel teeth contacting the pallet jewels of the lever. And the lever escapement is a detached escapement, meaning the escape wheel locks free of ...

Which member of the Beckham family has the best watch collection? The answer may surprise you… Time+Tide
May 14, 2021

Which member of the Beckham family has the best watch collection? The answer may surprise you…

Celebrity watch endorsement is a double-edged sword. On one hand, the Omega Seamaster on your wrist might give you that little pang of excitement as you think of James Bond wearing the same watch, while on the other it’s easy to be cynical about the whole exercise. You want to be like your hero, but … ContinuedThe post Which member of the Beckham family has the best watch collection? The answer may surprise you… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I traded a Patek Philippe and a panda dial Omega Speedmaster for a Rolex Submariner Time+Tide
May 13, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I traded a Patek Philippe and a panda dial Omega Speedmaster for a Rolex Submariner

Editor’s note: Sitting in the Time+Tide office, the wrists of certain staff members at times resemble a veritable revolving door of watches. Their passion for new watches leads them to constantly haggle and trade, navigating all manner of financial contortions to acquire the next watch on their hit-list. At times, this can look slightly exhausting … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Why I traded a Patek Philippe and a panda dial Omega Speedmaster for a Rolex Submariner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Yema Ties Up with French Navy for Dive Watches SJX Watches
May 12, 2021

Yema Ties Up with French Navy for Dive Watches

Established in 1948,  Yema was once a French watchmaking giant, having equipped the French Air Force and the first French astronaut, Jean-Loup Chrétien. It entered a long decline in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis, but was revived under its current French owners who took over in 2009. Now Yema is once again making tool watches for professionals in a tie up with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. A collection of dive watches “jointly designed with French Navy personnel for marine professionals”, the Navygraf X Marine Nationale is led by a time-only, automatic dive watch, as well as a variant with a GMT function. It also includes a less expensive quartz model and a ladies version, though they will not be covered here. The Navygraf Marine Nationale Automatic (left), and GMT Initial thoughts Along with fellow French brand Baltic, Yema is one of my favourite brands at the US$1,000 price point. Its watches are well designed and executed for the price, often offering strong value. Given Yema’s historical relationship with the French military – the brand supplied watches to French air force helicopter pilots in the 1970s – Yema has legitimacy in military watches, and its collaboration with the navy makes sense. The white and blue combination – a nautical palette modelled on the emblem of the French Navy – is familiar but stands out on the wrist, being immediately reminiscent of the oceans. The maritime theme of the symmetrical and legible dial is reinforc...

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military SJX Watches
May 9, 2021

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military

Though taking the form of its signature aviation-instrument watch, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military is the latest in a lineage of dive watches that started in 1997. Pilot’s watches are its bread and butter, but Bell & Ross (B&R) has been making high-spec dive watches almost since its founding in 1992. Five years later it launched the Hydromax, which was created in collaboration with Sinn. Featuring a case filled with incompressible synthetic oil, the Hydromax boasted a staggering water-resistance rating of 11,100 m. Two decades later, B&R launched the BR 03-92 Diver, which transformed the aviation-instrument case into a diving tool with a 300 m depth rating. First unveiled in steel, and subsequently also in either bronze or ceramic, the newest iteration of the BR 03-92 Diver has a functional olive-green dial that evokes the military inspiration behind many of the brand’s watches. Initial thoughts On the surface, the BR 03-92 Diver Military is seemingly a mere facelift, a new dial for the BR 03-92 Diver Black of 2019. Only the olive-green dial is new – but it makes a difference. While green seems to be the colour du jour for 2021, the olive-drab dial colour underscores the B&R spirit perfectly. The brand often looks to the military for inspiration – and has made watches for both police and military units in France – while being inclined towards a vintage style, particularly in its round watches. Best described as a retro-military colour that evokes unif...

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a fashion-forward diving watch that oozes urban cool Time+Tide
May 5, 2021

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a fashion-forward diving watch that oozes urban cool

Establishing a recognisable design DNA is a difficult thing to achieve, especially in a short period of time, but Louis Vuitton Tambour collection has done just that. Exhibiting a case  and shape unlike pretty much anything else out there, the all new Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a watch that will stand-out whether you’re … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a fashion-forward diving watch that oozes urban cool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A deep dive with Jeffrey Kingston, the man behind the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms documentary Time+Tide
Apr 30, 2021

VIDEO: A deep dive with Jeffrey Kingston, the man behind the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms documentary

If you love dive watches, Jeffrey Kingston is a name you should be familiar with. He literally wrote the book on the first early dive watches produced by Blancpain and has been a knowledgable fixture in the watch world for nearly two decades. Before he focused his attention on horological scholarship, Kingston was a successful … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A deep dive with Jeffrey Kingston, the man behind the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms documentary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Boldr Introduces the Odyssey Regatta SJX Watches
Apr 30, 2021

Boldr Introduces the Odyssey Regatta

A “microbrand” based in Singapore, Boldr is all about affordable sports watches. The latest addition to its catalogue is the Odyssey Regatta, unusual for being a yachting-countdown watch at a notably accessible price. Initial thoughts Affordable, solid dive watches are commonplace nowadays, often offered by “microbrands” like Boldr. But the Odyssey Regatta sets itself apart from the competition due to its regatta countdown function (admittedly a simple execution powered by a 7750). And it’s an attractive design, especially the faceted case. Though the case is stamped and looks the part, it’s still typified by strong, angular lines. There’s a boldness in the case design that reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept. The Odyssey Regatta exemplifies Boldr’s focus on rugged “tool” watches. Having handled the prototype, I was impressed by the build quality, given its price. Feeling reassuringly solid on the wrist, the watch has a heft that’s reminiscent of dive watches like the Oris Aquis and the Sinn U1. But the heft might be a bit too much for some. At 45 mm wide and 18.2 mm thick, the Odyssey Regatta is a beast on the wrist. It took me some time to get used to the watch’s towering case. Nevertheless, the weighty Odyssey Regatta represents a good option for someone searching for a large regatta chronograph that won’t break the bank. Priced at US$1,499, it represents strong value. For comparison, the Frederique Constant Regatta Countdown...

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K SJX Watches
Apr 29, 2021

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

Unveiled just last week alongside its sterling-silver sibling, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is Tudor’s first solid-gold dive watch. A significant milestone for Tudor that perhaps reveals aspirations further up the price spectrum, the Fifty-Eight 18K lives up to its ambitions. Initial thoughts In late 2019 I was speaking with a senior Tudor executive and got an inkling that a solid-gold watch might be in the works. Being a fan of the brand (and fortunate enough to own a few of them), that was something I was very much looking forward to. Now Tudor has finally done it, and I am impressed with the result. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is attractive, feels good in the hand, and is also well priced. The only disappointment is the lack of a matching gold bracelet. I know that would hike the price by at least 50%, but even then it would be a good buy – and it would be truly cool. Fingers crossed a bracelet is in the works. But even sans bracelet the new Fifty-Eight feels good in the hand. It’s sized (almost) exactly the same as the steel Fifty-Eight, making it the perfect size for an easy-to-wear dive watch. Naturally, the gold version is slightly heavier than the steel equivalent, but the weight is just enough to seem substantive, but not so much it’s unwieldy on the soft fabric strap (more on the weight reduction below). The weight gives the Fifty-Eight 18k an appropriately expensive feel. But as is always the norm with Tudor watches, the quality of the watch lives ...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value Time+Tide
Apr 28, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value

Watch collecting can be intimidating for beginners with many people scared off by the exorbitant price tags.  But you can get high quality watches at lower price points and, when it comes to presenting value-driven novelties, Seiko reigns supreme. The brand is particularly strong when it comes to diving watches, having perfected their offering since … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase SJX Watches
Apr 28, 2021

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase

A custom shop best known for its extensively reworking of popular sports watches – occasionally created in collaboration with celebrity sportsmen  – Artisans de Genève has a diverse portfolio of work that range from the intriguing to the mystifying. Certainly one of its more intriguing timepieces is the Sea Shepherd Challenge, a Submariner with a moon phase display surrounded by much aventurine glass that was commissioned by the founder of the eponymous marine conservation group. Initial thoughts Aftermarket customisation of fashionable watches is common. It can often be merely opportunistic, with customisers taking advantage of the watchmaker’s well-established brand and design. Rarely are customised watches interesting in a technical sense. The Sea Shepherd Challenge is interesting, being a mechanical customisation rather than the change of colours that’s the usual formula applied to such watches. It incorporates an oversized moon phase display (driven by a mechanically simple, but elaborately-constructed mechanism going by this animation), along with an aventurine-glass dial and bezel insert. Add to that the added decoration to the movement, and the watch does have its appeal. The customisation alone costs about US$35,000 (and the client either provides the watch or purchases one), which is probably too much for the work done, but within reason given the benchmark prices of such customised watches. A mariner’s watch This customised Submariner was a request...

PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch Time+Tide
Apr 27, 2021

PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch

Update #2:The never-ending story goes on… Since publishing this update we have spoken to Fog City Vintage (@fogcityvintage), who removed the Rolex Submariner listing – with an asking price at that time of $22,500USD – and refunded the seller as soon as it came to light that the provenance of the watch was not as originally described. As … ContinuedThe post PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver Time+Tide
Apr 27, 2021

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver

Whenever I am asked about the brands to get into when you’re just starting a collection, Seiko and their value-driven offerings are always at the top of the list. The vertically integrated manufacturer has a deep understanding of watchmaking, building all of the components in house to create robust, reliable and eye-pleasing designs that leverage … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGX335 delivers wrist presence and epic functionality Time+Tide
Apr 27, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGX335 delivers wrist presence and epic functionality

When it comes to dive watches from Grand Seiko, we’ve come to expect watches that are large and in charge. We certainly aren’t holding our breath for a vintage-inspired sub-40mm diver with a subtly tapering faux-riveted bracelet. It isn’t going to happen. Instead, the Japanese watchmaker tends to make their technically sophisticated dive watches in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGX335 delivers wrist presence and epic functionality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.