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Dive Watches · Page 131

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value Time+Tide
Apr 28, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value

Watch collecting can be intimidating for beginners with many people scared off by the exorbitant price tags.  But you can get high quality watches at lower price points and, when it comes to presenting value-driven novelties, Seiko reigns supreme. The brand is particularly strong when it comes to diving watches, having perfected their offering since … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase SJX Watches
Apr 28, 2021

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase

A custom shop best known for its extensively reworking of popular sports watches – occasionally created in collaboration with celebrity sportsmen  – Artisans de Genève has a diverse portfolio of work that range from the intriguing to the mystifying. Certainly one of its more intriguing timepieces is the Sea Shepherd Challenge, a Submariner with a moon phase display surrounded by much aventurine glass that was commissioned by the founder of the eponymous marine conservation group. Initial thoughts Aftermarket customisation of fashionable watches is common. It can often be merely opportunistic, with customisers taking advantage of the watchmaker’s well-established brand and design. Rarely are customised watches interesting in a technical sense. The Sea Shepherd Challenge is interesting, being a mechanical customisation rather than the change of colours that’s the usual formula applied to such watches. It incorporates an oversized moon phase display (driven by a mechanically simple, but elaborately-constructed mechanism going by this animation), along with an aventurine-glass dial and bezel insert. Add to that the added decoration to the movement, and the watch does have its appeal. The customisation alone costs about US$35,000 (and the client either provides the watch or purchases one), which is probably too much for the work done, but within reason given the benchmark prices of such customised watches. A mariner’s watch This customised Submariner was a request...

PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch Time+Tide
Apr 27, 2021

PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch

Update #2:The never-ending story goes on… Since publishing this update we have spoken to Fog City Vintage (@fogcityvintage), who removed the Rolex Submariner listing – with an asking price at that time of $22,500USD – and refunded the seller as soon as it came to light that the provenance of the watch was not as originally described. As … ContinuedThe post PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver Time+Tide
Apr 27, 2021

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver

Whenever I am asked about the brands to get into when you’re just starting a collection, Seiko and their value-driven offerings are always at the top of the list. The vertically integrated manufacturer has a deep understanding of watchmaking, building all of the components in house to create robust, reliable and eye-pleasing designs that leverage … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGX335 delivers wrist presence and epic functionality Time+Tide
Apr 27, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGX335 delivers wrist presence and epic functionality

When it comes to dive watches from Grand Seiko, we’ve come to expect watches that are large and in charge. We certainly aren’t holding our breath for a vintage-inspired sub-40mm diver with a subtly tapering faux-riveted bracelet. It isn’t going to happen. Instead, the Japanese watchmaker tends to make their technically sophisticated dive watches in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGX335 delivers wrist presence and epic functionality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kixntix: The toughness of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets the minimalist luxury of Common Projects Time+Tide
Apr 24, 2021

#Kixntix: The toughness of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets the minimalist luxury of Common Projects

The new Tudor Black Bay Chronograph for me definitely scratched an itch I was well aware of, well, two itches. While I’m always impressed by the mechanics of a chronograph complication, I prefer clean dials and the contrasts of a sharp panda. The beefy Black Bay chronograph has always been sharp in the looks department, … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The toughness of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets the minimalist luxury of Common Projects appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Doing Its Part to Battle Climate Change SJX Watches
Apr 24, 2021

Rolex Doing Its Part to Battle Climate Change

Two decades after its founding in 1905, Rolex began equipping sportspeople and explorers with waterproof Oyster watches, making possible precision timekeeping under adverse conditions. And it continued as the peace and prosperity of the postwar era in the 1950s encouraged exploration of the heights and depths of the Earth, driving adventurers through snow and water into the pages of history. This era also gave birth to watches like the Explorer, Submariner, and GMT-Master – all watches for professionals who were charting the planet. Today much of the planet has been explored, and it’s no longer a race to the deepest ocean or the tallest mountain, but instead a quest to preserve the planet. Having long been a supporter of exploration, Rolex now backs modern-day explorers who seek to battle climate change. The watchmaker funds scientific expeditions focused on conservation, such as measuring the volume of ice at the North Pole in order to gauge global warming. Since 2019, the ongoing conservation programmes that Rolex supports have been formally come under the Perpetual Planet initiative, the watchmaker’s endeavour to pave the way for a sustainable future. Early explorers Before exploring Rolex’s support for conservation programme, it’s worth revisiting its early participation in exploration. Amongst the most notable was the British Everest Expedition, the 1953 attempt to scale Mount Everest led by Sir John Hunt, a colonel in the British Army. It was a competitiv...

Qatar Watch Club Teams Up with Hermès for Special Edition Arceau SJX Watches
Apr 22, 2021

Qatar Watch Club Teams Up with Hermès for Special Edition Arceau

Since its founding three years ago, Qatar Watch Club (QWC) has collaborated with several watchmakers on special editions that paid tribute to its home country. The first was a Chopard L.U.C GMT with a burgundy dial – the primary colour of Qatar’s national flag – then a Tudor Pelagos featuring the country name in Arabic script, and most recently a Ulysse Nardin Freak X. It latest project is a tie-up with Hermès that resulted in special edition of the Arceau. Limited to 40 pieces, the Hermès Arceau Qatar Watch Club features an ebene, or “ebony”, dial that reflects the shared equestrian history of both the Parisian saddle maker and the Gulf state. Initial thoughts The watch is very much Hermès in nature and execution. Though distinctive, it is discreet. One of Hermès’ most distinctive models, the Arceau was first conceived in 1978, with its asymmetrical case inspired by a stirrup. The italicised Breguet numerals are stylish, giving the watch subtle flair. Equally subtle is the herringbone-textured dial that brings to mind Hermès fabric. The ebene dial colour is noteworthy. Rich in tone when executed right, brown is relatively uncommon in today’s watches, especially when green and blue seem to be the colours du jour. Long a colour associated with horse riding – Hermès saddles and riding boots can often be found in ebene – it is also a popular shade for the brand’s iconic Birkin bags. Coupled with orange accents – the five-minute markers and the...

Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S SJX Watches
Apr 18, 2021

Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S

Typically known for making utilitarian, military-inspired watches, Sinn breaks away from its trademark aesthetic with the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, adding a touch of luxe to the smaller sibling of its best-selling U1 dive watch. Initial thoughts Billed as a unisex version of the U1, the U50 has a 41 mm diameter. Though not a small watch in itself, it is substantially smaller than the full-sized, 44 mm U1. With the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, it is clear that Sinn is trying to appeal to female buyers – a segment that the brand, with its usually large “tool” watches must have had difficulty wooing. I find the unusual combination of the blacked-out case and mother-of-pearl dial to work well. The all-black aesthetic is stealthy, the very sort of look right at home on a no-nonsense tool watch. In contrast, the mother-of-pearl dial is striking, with an iridescence is highly attractive and appealing to females looking for sports watch that has a little bit more sparkle. The paradoxical combination gives the new U50 an intriguing look, which I must confess to liking this much more than the regular U50 S. Starting at €2,750 on a rubber strap, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S is just a tad pricier than the regular U50 S. Given that it is also limited to just 500 pieces, it’s good value for those looking for a more stylish Sinn dive watch. Pretty but robust Despite the shimmering mother-of-pearl dial, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S remains robustly built, as most Sinn watches are....

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? Time+Tide
Apr 13, 2021

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it?

Recently I published my thoughts on the new Tudor Black Bay 58 18K in yellow gold. Tudor really surprised us all this year at Watches & Wonders, throwing their hat in the ring for the higher price tier of precious-metal watches. Personally I think the watch is stunning, but nothing is perfect. I would have … ContinuedThe post Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hey, wait, so this Tudor Black Bay 58 is silver not steel? What differences are there, then? Time+Tide
Apr 11, 2021

Hey, wait, so this Tudor Black Bay 58 is silver not steel? What differences are there, then?

When you think of Tudor watches, you typically think of stainless-steel, value-driven offerings. But Tudor surprised us all, making the leap to yellow gold as well as silver for the Tudor Black Bay 58. While the Tudor Black 58 18K presents a formidable step up in price, the new Tudor Black Bay 58 925 in … ContinuedThe post Hey, wait, so this Tudor Black Bay 58 is silver not steel? What differences are there, then? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona Time+Tide
Apr 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona

The new, all-steel Tudor Black Bay Chronograph seems to me like the sweet middle ground between two iconic watches.  I have a strained relationship with the Rolex Daytona – not that I can get one at retail – and feel it’s a bit too loud and well, Rolexy, even if I admire the quality. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Panda” SJX Watches
Apr 9, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Panda”

Tudor first starting making chronographs a half century ago, and to commemorate that milestone, the brand is facelifting the Black Bay Chrono by giving it a slimmer case as well as two new “panda” dials. Available in either a “panda” or a “reverse panda” dial, the new Black Bay Chrono sticks with the vintage-inspired styling of the Black Bay line, while also preserving the affordable pricing. Together that should make it popular amongst those seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The new Black Bay Chrono with an opaline dial Initial thoughts Tudor typically iterates rather than revamp, and so the new Black Bay Chrono is an incremental improvement, in part a response to the consumers’ desire for a slimmer chronograph (because the original was fairly chunky). The “panda” dials of the new Black Bay Chronos are more striking than the solid-colour dials of the 2017 original, because the juxtaposition of colour enhances the sportiness, while the monochrome aesthetic stays true to the utilitarian roots of the design. The Black Bay Chronograph with a “reverse panda” dial In addition, the steel bezels of the originals have been livened up with black aluminium inserts, which provides a distinct, retro-racing chronograph feel. My only knock on the new design is the date – I think the dial would look cleaner sans date, and properly vintage-inspired. My pick would be the Black Bay Chrono “reverse panda” matched with a metal bracelet. It possesses a s...

HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver spans the gulf from the sea to the streets Time+Tide
Apr 9, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver spans the gulf from the sea to the streets

It was just shy of 20 years ago that Louis Vuitton released their first watch, but the strides that the brand has made in that time is impressive. The Geneva Seal isn’t something that is presented lightly in watchmaking, yet Louis Vuitton has managed to achieve that level for a number of references in their … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver spans the gulf from the sea to the streets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K SJX Watches
Apr 8, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

Tudor’s first-ever solid-gold dive watch is making its debut at Watches & Wonders 2021. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K has a case in 18k yellow gold – in a sleek, brushed finish – along with a gold-flecked green dial. (And the Fifty-Eight 18k is launching alongside the more affordable Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 with a sterling silver case.) And despite being ultra-luxe for Tudor, the Fifty-Eight 18k is very much like the rest of Tudor’s offerings in being a value proposition, with a retail price of a bit over US$18,000 – a solid deal for a solid-gold dive watch. Initial Thoughts If there is one thing this year’s Watches & Wonders has made abundantly clear, it is that green is the new flavour of the day. The Fifty-Eight 18K is one of many green watches being launched – but doubtlessly the best value proposition – and Tudor opted for a dark, rich green that complements the case metal. Stylistically, the new Fifty-Eight models are polar opposites. The sterling-silver 925 is reserved and subtle, while the 18K clearly has greater visual impact. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K comes with two straps: alligator leather and fabric The Fifty-Eight 18k is expensive for a Tudor, with a retail price of US$18,340. That’s over US$15,000 more than last year’s navy blue version in steel. But – and this is a big but – when compared with the precious-metal dive watches made by practically every other brand, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is a bargain in relative te...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 SJX Watches
Apr 7, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925

Met with critical and commercial acclaim at its launch  in 2018, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight hit the sweet spot with enthusiasts who had been clamouring for a Black Bay in a trimmer and smaller case. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Tudor releases two variants of the model that are perhaps its most unusual dive watches ever: the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 in sterling silver, and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K in solid yellow gold. Initial Thoughts Though a precious-metal case for a “tool” watch seems incongruent, it’s a familiar combination for high-end sports watches. But Tudor has done it differently, with the evocative 925 silver case a perfect match for the Fifty-Eight, which is at heart a vintage remake. The look of the Fifty-Eight 925 is pure understatement – a low-key yet striking watch that will be recognised only by those in the know. Thankfully, Tudor resisted using faux-aged Super-Luminova on the hour markers and Snowflake hands, a decision that preserves the watch’s clean look. The Fifty-Eight 925 in sterling silver And the look is clean. The bezel and dial are in taupe – a restrained grey-brown – a versatile colour that is studiedly neutral. Despite the inconspicuous colour – and specifically because of it – the watch is actually quite noticeable on the wrist. It is vaguely vintage in style, which goes with the soft, silvery colour of the case. Given both the colour and smaller case size, the Fifty-Eight 925 is perhaps the most gender neutr...

Panerai Introduces the Submersible Bronze Blu Abisso PAM 1074 SJX Watches
Apr 7, 2021

Panerai Introduces the Submersible Bronze Blu Abisso PAM 1074

Before bronze became the modish material for dive watches, Panerai got there first with the Bronzo PAM 382 in 2011. Since then, there have been multiple iterations of the Bronzo – which had a 47 mm case – with the latest being the PAM 968 introduced two years ago. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Panerai unveils a smaller, 42 mm Bronzo, the Submersible Bronze Blue Abisso PAM01074. Initial thoughts If the new Bronzo looks familiar, that’s because the bronze-and-blue guise has been done before with the Bronzo PAM 671 of 2017. But there’s a significant difference: the smaller form factor of the new PAM 1074, which is eminently more wearable at 42 mm. It’s still a sizeable watch, but by Panerai standards, the PAM 1074 is a small watch. Not only does that make it more appealing as an everyday watch, the smaller size also makes it a practical option for female watch enthusiasts. Despite the reduced size, the watch is distinctly Panerai in style. And the bronze and blue combination remains striking. The beige Super-Luminova and oxidised bronze will give the watch a well-worn look that is thematically congruent with the Submersible’s status as the brand’s “tool” watch. And though it complements the bronze case, the heavy dose of faux patina may prove divisive, especially those who prefer a clean, white lume. At US$15,900, the latest Bronzo is priced at the mid-range of Panerai’s offerings, and is fair value as far as Panerai watches go. In fact, it’s slightly ...

Comments 1

  1. Tomek
    ISO 6425 is real standard, not marketing talk. Good that article mention this. Too many watches claim 'dive ready' but not certified. Unidirectional bezel and screwed crown are not optional if you go deep.

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