Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Collector's Guide To The Vintage Rolex Submariner 5513
The most classic of Submariners, and why now's a good time to pay attention to this beloved reference.
Hodinkee
The most classic of Submariners, and why now's a good time to pay attention to this beloved reference.
Quill & Pad
When Ball Watch asked Dietmar Fuchs to test dive one of the company’s newest watches, the Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer, he hesitated at first. Ball didn’t jingle a diving bell for him, but something else from its history jangled: a brand’s “history” section is always the first thing he checks before testing a watch and he discovered Ball Watch has the credentials. So he dove in and now shares his experience and thoughts on the watch here.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Girard Perregaux Casquette Coming in with the heat to start this week, with this very cool and very rare vintage Girard Perregaux Casquette LED watch. This super-futuro watch debuted in 1976 and is so iconic that GP reissued it as a heritage edition in 2022. But this here is the O.G. GP LED (sorry, I had to do that…), and it even comes with the original box. What makes this model unique is the side view ‘drivers’ design where the LED window is inset, giving it an old school computer console look. The 32mm wide steel case is in good shape, unpolished and still showing the original brushed finish. It comes on the original bracelet, although the seller states it will only fit up to a 7” wrist. The watch works well with no missing LED segments, however one of the buttons is a little sticky per the seller. The watch comes with the original box, which is a little beat up. Still, this is a really nice example of an exceptional watch. View auction here Vintage Seiko 7006-8040 Here’s one that is a little simpler, a straight forward vintage Seiko 7006-8040 on the original bracelet. This is your classic 1970’s sporty/dress Seiko, with a silver dial, day/date window at 3 o...
Monochrome
Rolex arguably has more iconic models than any major watchmaker, from the Submariner to the Datejust to the Explorer (and many more). Still, the Cosmograph Daytona has become something of a unicorn and a collector’s dream in the last couple of decades. At a time when the brand’s steel sports watches were still readily available […]
Fratello
Well, 2024 has been quite a year for Omega, hasn’t it? The brand fulfilled its role as the official timekeeper of the Paris Olympics with verve. In the meantime, it also presented numerous special-edition watches. But somehow, it seems Omega just can’t stop unveiling new references. Right now, it’s in the middle of a strong […] Visit Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra With A Gradient Turquoise Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since its founding, Rolex has been a powerhouse of Swiss watchmaking and the name is synonymous with luxury and success. Founded by Hans Wilsdorf as Wilsdorf and Davis in 1905, it wasn’t until 1908 that the patronym Rolex was registered as the brand name. Some of the most iconic models like the Submariner, Explorer, GMT-Master […]
Time+Tide
Once again, actor Daniel Craig is strategically leaking a new Omega on behalf of the brand, wearing an unreleased Seamaster.The post Omega respond to mystery Daniel Craig Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In today’s installment of My Year in Watches, Media Manager Devin Pennypacker writes about making a big move, acquiring a long sought after dive watch, and the creative energy of New York City. I know it’s a cliche, but to say my year in watches has been eventful would be a great understatement. I had the opportunity to work on some of the most personally fulfilling content I have ever created, made the jump from one large watch media company over to another, uprooted my entire life to pursue new opportunities, and refined my watch collection in the pursuit of finally checking off pieces from the wishlist. Along the way, I met so many amazing people, making new connections all based on our shared weird obsessions. It has been quite the year. Earlier this year, I was working behind the scenes making the occasional cameo here and there for Teddy Baldassarre. With an amazingly talented team around me, we created content at a pace that most people could not fathom, launched a retail store that had been in the works behind the scenes for quite some time, and made waves in the industry that have yet to settle. While I was and remain incredibly proud of the content I helped create and am very appreciative of the knowledge, skills, and connections gained through that experience, when the opportunity arose for me to take on a new challenge while putting my name out there a bit more, I took it. Since joining the Worn & Wound team, I have had the opportunity to meet many of you...
Monochrome
The Rolex Submariner is among the most iconic watches of the brand’s entire portfolio and even the choice of James Bond (in the earlier years, at least), but the GMT-Master series is up there in popularity as well, and arguably the most iconic traveller’s watch from any brand. It lived alongside the Explorer II models […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The FXD is a watch that gets under your skin. Since Tudor introduced this strange offshoot of the Pelagos collection at the end of 2021, it’s turned into something of a fan favorite, and while it’s not without its detractors, Tudor has steadily fleshed out the concept into a full fledged collection. The newest member of that collection, the FXD GMT, is arguably the most versatile of the bunch, delivering on an often-requested feature set without compromising the size of the case. On paper, the FXD GMT is the full package, but practical chops are only half the story when it comes to the ultimate charm of this watch. On personality, the latest FXD has some ground to cover, and after spending a week with the watch, it very nearly gets there. Released into the Pelagos collection (where it remains to this day), the FXD was originally a spec-built dive watch for the French Navy, aka the Marine Nationale. Today's models represent a return to a relationship that began in the 1950s, when Tudor provided dive watches for the French Navy's Underwater Study and Research Group. As such, the watch is more than a mere co-branding exercise. The design of the watch, which uses a fixed-lug construction (FXD) for which it is named, is based on the needs of a very niche group of individuals. These needs included a bi-directional countdown bezel, a quality-of-life feature for divers navigating via dead reckoning at relatively shallow depths. The result was a rather unusual watch, but one t...
Teddy Baldassarre
Just over two years ago, Longines launched the Ultra-Chron, a revival of the super-accurate 1968 original that gained notoriety as the world’s first high-frequency diver. Now Longines has released the Ultra-Chron Carbon, which is the brand’s first watch with a case made from carbon fiber, which, of course, is known for its lightweight durability. The watch, in fact, comes in at just 80 grams for the case and strap. The original Ultra-Chron Diver Ref. 7970 from 1968 was a cushion-cased steel watch that measured 41mm wide with 200 meters of water resistance. It was outfitted with the 5Hz Caliber 431 movement, which was accurate to 2 seconds per day. Our resident expert Mark Bernardo went into all the details of this model as well as the brand’s history with high-frequency timekeeping, in an article you can read here. The 2022 revival was a little bigger, coming in at 43mm wide, but also beefed up the water resistance to 300 meters. This new Ultra-Chron Carbon shares the same basic specs as this revival model but the blacked-out design kind of makes all the difference in terms of style versatility. Rather than a red minutes hand and matching red accents on the bezel, we see a sleek, monochrome aesthetic that is more stealth than sporty. The use of a contemporary material like carbon also offsets some of that overt “vintage-inspired” design language in favor of its own identity. The cushion-shaped case measures 43mm wide and 14mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug measu...
Worn & Wound
In 1995, I was 22 years old and sitting in the theater, eagerly awaiting the start of the new James Bond film. It had been six years since the last movie featuring Timothy Dalton, marking the longest gap between Bond films up to that point. I was already deeply invested in collecting watches. Still, the internet hadn’t emerged yet, and I had no idea I was about to encounter one of the timepieces that would forever change how I viewed Omega watches. It took me four more years and two more Brosnan Bond movies to finally acquire a blue Seamaster Professional. Since then, I have owned many more, including a recent blue Diver 300M. While most people’s entry into the Omega universe is the Speedmaster, mine was the Seamaster, which remains my favorite line to this day. When the No Time to Die edition was released with its redesigned, slimmer case, titanium construction, classic aluminum bezel, and boxed sapphire crystal, I sensed that we would be in for a treat with future releases, and I was right. Next, Omega presented the Seamaster 60th anniversary in stainless steel, followed by a standard black-on-black version and a brushed steel dial variant featuring a titanium relief bezel. However, Omega had one more Seamaster release for 2024-the Seamaster Diver 300M in Titanium and Bronze-Gold. As the name implies, this is a grade 2 titanium Seamaster with Bronze-Gold crowns and a Bronze-Gold bezel with an oxalic anodized aluminum insert. Omega’s Bronze-Gold is a unique alloy ...
Quill & Pad
The rise of the internet, and the consequent evolution of the watch-watching community, has inevitably amplified the phenomenon whereby certain objects have come to exert an extraordinary hold over the collective imagination. Here, Colin Alexander Smith debunks three watch myths circulating widely and freely online and in print concerning former French president Nicolas Sarkozy's Rolex and Patek Philippe, the Khanjar Rolex Sea-Dwellers, and what in fact Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were wearing on their wrists as they summited Mount Everest.
Time+Tide
Catching us all by surprise, the new Blue Lagoon.The post Swatch releases a new Scuba Fifty Fathoms out of the blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for your weekly dose of early-morning caffeine! Pour yourself a hot cup of coffee, grab a seat, and let’s get going. This week, Jorg and Mike return to the battlefield with another interesting duo of contenders. We read your comments, dear Fratelli! Today’s matchup is a much-requested battle that […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Vs. Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Wavy vibes, just in time for Antipodean summer.The post 7 of the best wave dials – surprisingly not comprising only dive watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Over time, I’ve come to realize that my favorite emotion to experience in this hobby is surprise. That could be because I work in the watch industry and am therefore exposed to so many watches that are the opposite of surprising. Predictability, in any job, leads to a certain amount of drudgery. But those moments of surprise, seeing or reading about a watch that you didn’t expect or couldn’t have conceived of, more than make up for it. By the same token, I understand that for some in our community, surprise or any rocking of the boat is less desirable. If you view watches from a strictly classicist perspective, you might roll your eyes at purely adventurous designs in the same way I do at watches that seem to just be repeating what has come before. Part of me, I have to admit, envies the watch enthusiasts who can see a vintage inspired, black dialed dive watch and be ready to throw the rest of it away. There’s an idea that I keep turning around in my head, that watches were never really intended to be “collected,” that one good one is all anyone really needs, so there’s something correct about seeing a watch like a Tudor Black Bay (a watch I own and love, and even won a Thunderdome with) and feeling like you’ve just a met a watch that will be with you forever. At this point, that’s just not me, and I find myself seeking out watches that feel obscure, strange, or neglected somehow. I want to discover new, under the radar, and risky designs made by crea...
Worn & Wound
Late last month, Doxa – the reigning cushion case champ and many divers’ brand of choice – released a dazzling new line of Sub 200T references. Media coverage has been sparse. This isn’t really surprising, as the new drop is… a lot to take in. Even though many journalists in the industry appear to be reserving their judgment thus far of the new Doxa Diamonds, social media users are happy to fill in the vacuum with their no-holds-barred opinions. There seem to be a few discussions happening on various watch forums, but the real heartbeat of public opinion can be found amongst the Instagram comments on Doxa’s official brand posts. In case anyone is removed from the world of the socials, allow me to pick a few gems for your reading pleasure: “This is an abomination.” “April fool’s territory.” And, my personal favorite, “Cousteau and Cussler are rolling in their graves.” These are found, of course, in between a punctuating handful of green seasick emojis that really work to tie together the whole sentiment. In sum, Doxa fans think this new series is a swing and a miss for the brand. The drop is clearly reaching for a different market segment than Doxa’s typical consumer base. Though the move into jewels may bring more female buyers into the fold, it’s important to mention that some of the models wearing the Diamonds watches in Doxa’s marketing materials are men. This indicates the new line is meant for all and shouldn’t be relegated to the d...
Monochrome
It has become a pretty recurring thing for Omega to release new models, or at least new editions of existing watches, with very little or no fanfare. While this has happened in the Planet Ocean and Speedmaster collections, it’s mostly the Aqua Terra family that sees these discreet releases dropping regularly. Following the addition of […]
Fratello
Yes, you read that correctly. I think the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, with its steel dial, titanium bezel, and mesh bracelet, is wrong. Allow me to explain myself. Historically, combining the 1990s case design with a mesh bracelet that originated a couple of decades before that doesn’t make sense. As a dive watch, it […] Visit Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel to read the full article.
Time+Tide
It seems Omega just can't stop surprising us with new watches this holiday season, treating us with a tasty turquoise fumé Aqua Terra.The post Omega drop another surprise holiday release: a Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M in turquoise appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...
Worn & Wound
There are niche watches, and then there are niche watches. A dive watch on its own, if you think about, is a very specific kind of thing, and in spite of their incredible popularity, we shouldn’t forget that they’re built for a highly specific purpose that almost nobody wearing one will ever participate in. A vintage inspired dive watch with an alarm that can be heard underwater is even more specific, and a dive watch with an alarm that can be heard underwater and has been designed to imagine what an example of this watch might have looked like if it existed ten years before the actual watch it’s inspired by – well, that’s about as far down the rabbit hole as most will care to go. But that’s what Massena LAB and Vulcain have cooked up for their new collaboration, and it’s one of the strangest and most charming watches of the year. The Vulcain Nautical Legacy Massena LAB can perhaps be most easily understood as a new spin on the Vulcain Nautical Cricket, which was revived last year. The watch we covered last summer was Vulcain’s attempt at bringing back a truly strange diver that takes a genuinely different approach to the very idea of “timing” a dive. The Nautical effectively brings the no-decompression table to the dial itself, and through the setting of the alarm and matching it with the dive’s depth, the diver can calculate the length of their decompression stops as they make their way to the surface. Again, truly niche, and an early example of t...
Time+Tide
The hulking, vintage-style Vulcain Nautical diver and its alarm function have been given a Massena Lab-flavoured makeover.The post The Vulcain Nautical Legacy Massena Lab presents an alternate history of Cricket diving appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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