Time+Tide
IWC's villain-inspired Aquatimers are cool, but they're also a little confusing.The post Did IWC miss an opportunity with the release of their Aquaman Aquatimers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Micro gas tubes, a manufacture movement, and a unique lumed bezel in a capable diver.The post The Ball Skindiver III Beyond combines tritium gas lume with an impressive movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A pioneering dive watch brand and their contemporary endeavours won D.C. over in 2023.The post Why Zodiac is the brand that won 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Pretty much since the first day of taking up the financially ruinous hobby of watches in early 2022, I’ve had a bit of a thing for tool and sports watches. Granted, I haven’t been scuba diving and I’ll certainly not be scaling Mount Everest any time soon, but there is – to me at least – something romantic about wearing a watch that offers a sense of genuine utility, especially in the age of the smartwatch. What’s more, I believe that a watch should tell something about its wearer; a glimpse into their personality rather than just be a status symbol and a source of bragging rights. When the opportunity for my first ‘proper’ watch arose in January 2023, I chose a Tudor Black Bay GMT. It was a belated 30th birthday gift and whenever I look at it, it reminds me that firstly, my knees hurt more often than they don’t, and secondly, reconciliation exists and hope springs eternal no matter how rough things may seem at certain times. There are also another two reasons unrelated to age as to why this watch is special to me. Several millennia ago as a student, I was fortunate to spend an academic year in St. Petersburg. That’s the Russian one, FYI, and that period from September 2010 to July 2011 kicked off a fascination with the awesome-yet-frightening city on Neva. In 2015, having also developed a love affair with the history of the Baltic States, I moved to Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, to try my luck at Eastern Europe without the paternal hand of the un...
Hodinkee
Dubbed the "Scuba Fifty," the latest collaboration from the Swatch Group is ready to produce complete pandemonium on September 9th.
Worn & Wound
Nubeo is a brand that takes its inspiration from both sea and space in tribute, in function and in design. Their latest dive watch is named after the Ventana remotely operated vehicle. This scientific submersible is rated to a depth of over 1700 meters, and for 30 years and somewhere north of 4,100 dives it is the most experienced and enduring ROV in the world. This diver sure looks the part and with 1000m of water-resistance, it can also do the part. The perfectly round stainless steel case is a whopping 50mm in diameter, but similar to everyone’s favorite Japanese dive watch nicknamed after a delicious sandwich fish, there are no lugs. The strap directly attaches to the watch underneath each side, in a hooded fashion. Therefore, despite its girth, just about anyone should be able to wear it. All of the Ventana variants feature a deep wave patterned dial, with a flush helium escape valve at 9 o’clock and, believe it or not, a captive bezel held in place by large screws. The extra-large hands and indices, along with the oversize bezel pip are filled with a copious amount of lume. Powering the Ventana is the automatic, Seiko built, NH35 movement, and all come on a specialized, thick silicon strap, ready for action. Finishing the year with a bang, Nubeo has introduced 4 new colorways, each limited to 400 pieces. First there is the Basalt Grey, for those that prefer a more conservative look. Its bezel insert is a half-half split of black on top and, as the name implies, g...
Worn & Wound
The traveler’s watch. The last truly useful sport watch today. The GMT watch has, as much as its sibling the dive watch, remained a cultural icon and a best-seller for brands both big and small. Every collector wants – or at least has considered – a GMT watch of some kind. There is good and bad news to that end. The good news is that watch brands have labored to create GMT watches of all sorts to appeal to every breed of watch enthusiast. The bad news is that money doesn’t grow on trees. Of all the classic watch archetypes, the GMT has always straddled that line between ritzy and rough, and we can separate them into two stylistic buckets: dressy and sporty. While the line between the two is often blurred and the definitions themselves somewhat subjective, we thought it would be fun to see how this useful complication has found its way into watches of all kinds. So without further ado, this is your Sunday Smackdown: GMT Edition. The traveler’s watch. The last truly useful sport watch today. The GMT watch has, as much as its sibling the dive watch, remained a cultural icon and a best-seller for brands both big and small. Every collector wants – or at least has considered – a GMT watch of some kind. There is good and bad news to that end. The good news is that watch brands have labored to create GMT watches of all sorts to appeal to every breed of watch enthusiast. The bad news is that money doesn’t grow on trees. Of all the classic watch archetypes, the GMT h...
Monochrome
As we’re drawing a close to 2023, we take a look back at some of the Best New Watches revealed this year in various categories. And even though we’ve already covered fan favourites such as Chronographs, GMT watches, Dive watches, as well as several others, we’re now upping the ante with some of the best […]
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most surprising aspect of the year was how predictable much of it was. We saw more sports watches with integrated bracelets and more time-only watches with ostensibly artisanal decoration. Paradoxically, most of the notable surprises came from establishment marques that would ordinarily be predictable. Amongst them are the Rolex Perpetual 1908 and Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time ref. 5224R, both thoughtful creations that are typical for their respective brands. Here are our picks for the year’s best surprises in watchmaking. Brandon Moore Technical Contributor An unexpected, but user-friendly complicated watch that debuted this year is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R, a simple dual time watch with a twist: both time zones are indicated on a 24-hour dial, eliminating the need for an auxiliary day-night indicator. Not only is the functionality appealing, but the aesthetic and ergonomic execution is done well. While 42 mm may seem large for a Calatrava, the watch is visually smaller thanks to its abundant use of applied markers on the dial and stepped case and lugs. Moreover, and importantly, it is different for Patek Philippe, which is notable since the brand usually errs on the side of the tried and tested. Who would have thought Patek Philippe would remake the Chronometro Gondolo into a wristwatch? Richard Lee Technical Editor I was surprised when I first saw the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref....
Worn & Wound
Since Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega started Lorier Watches in 2018, their stated goal has been to make a watch that you could wear everyday for the rest of your life. With the new Astra, they’ve come as close as ever to achieving that lofty goal. For those few of you who may be unfamiliar with the brand, Lorier has, over the last five years, taken the enthusiast world by storm. Since their public unveiling in 2018, Lorier has produced a series of vintage inspired watches that punch way above their weight - both in fit and finish, as well as design consideration. I got my first Lorier, a Neptune V.2, in the fall of 2019 and wore it just about everyday for a year. It was the first dive watch that really stuck around in my collection and, during the early days of the pandemic, it was my constant companion. I adored that watch. With its bulbous Hesalite crystal and simple painted dial, it was undoubtedly the watch that taught me to love dive watches. $499 Review: the Lorier Astra Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Blue, silver Lume Yes Lens Hesalite Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 36 x 44mm Thickness 9mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $499 If you know me, or if you were to read my take on the “3 Watch Collection for $5000,” it should be obvious that I still love dive watches. I wear a dive watch most days and would offer up that, pound for pound, dollar for dollar, a rotating dive bezel is the most usefu...
Worn & Wound
Of all the archetypes in the big wide watch world, the dive watch and its staying power is unparalleled for collectors, enthusiasts, and the watch-buying public at large. The reasons for this are many but at the most basic level, dive watches are just easy to live with; they are usually robust and durable, have interesting features like bezels and waterproof cases, and just look cool. From both storytelling and product specifications standpoints, they are readily understood and appreciated. As we wrap up the year, here are a few dive watch releases that have stood out to us. All of them can be found right here in the Windup Watch Shop, and all can serve as lifelong companions. In no particular order, here are your Top 5 Dive Watches of 2023… Of all the archetypes in the big wide watch world, the dive watch and its staying power is unparalleled for collectors, enthusiasts, and the watch-buying public at large. The reasons for this are many but at the most basic level, dive watches are just easy to live with; they are usually robust and durable, have interesting features like bezels and waterproof cases, and just look cool. From both storytelling and product specifications standpoints, they are readily understood and appreciated. As we wrap up the year, here are a few dive watch releases that have stood out to us. All of them can be found right here in the Windup Watch Shop, and all can serve as lifelong companions. In no particular order, here are your Top 5 Dive Watches ...
Time+Tide
A plethora of Seamasters and some internet-breaking tech marked Omega's 2023.The post Celebrating the Seamaster, the Paris Olympics and new tech – the best of Omega in 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Two customised Rolex, one winner. Which fared better at the Sotheby's Fine Watches auction: the Supreme Submariner or the Asprey Daytona?The post The Supreme Submariner versus the Asprey Daytona – which went for more? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As one of the front-runners in sustainable watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin show off their best use of recycled materials.The post The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure plunge into sustainable luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A late-night host and a President sit down to record a podcast... both wearing Seamasters. Dare we call this horological history?
Worn & Wound
In a year already busy with watch company/movie studio collaborations, IWC Schaffhausen has provided a late entry to the genre just in time for Christmas-well, for those with $57,600 in their gift budget for loved ones. The watch: The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month The movie: Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom In the film, Aquaman (Jason Momoa) faces off against Black Manta (Yahya Abdul-Mateen II). What Black Manta lacks in virtue, he makes up with cutting edge tech, from his Atlantean armored suit and black IWC Aquatimer with fittingly villainous red lume highlights. Black Manta is joined by the Atlantis-obsessed Dr. Stephen Shin (Randall Park), who gets his own Aquatimer, identical except for the blue lume found on his model. In an interview with Worn & Wound, IWC Creative Director Christian Knoop recalled director James Wan asking for the IWC creative team’s ideas on prop watches. “So I said, ‘yeah, James, we have some concept studies, secret design concepts and probably nobody will ever see them, but we are happy to share them,’” Knoop said. Working with the film’s creative team, Knoop landed on the design they ultimately used and that both teams loved. “We usually take a couple of years to develop a watch and then James and team got super excited and said, ‘okay, can you send over the watches in 10 days,’” said Knoop. The versions used in the film weren’t functional, assembled to meet the quick deadline necessary for the movie, but K...
Time+Tide
At its entry-luxury price point, the Ball Engineer Master II Diver Worldtime has a level of spec and build quality that rivals more expensive professional watches in its segment.The post The Ball Engineer Master II Diver Worldtime punches above its entry-luxury pricing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today. 1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...
Time+Tide
The well-established microbrand gives its brawny diver a slew of mother-of-pearl dials.The post The Spinnaker Hull Pearl Diver blends technical and technicolour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Raketa Sonar is a unique take on a dive watch. Featuring a funky, 1970s design with a colourful, 24-hour display – that was designed with the help of a Soviet navy captain – the Sonar has 200 m of water resistance. Two versions are available, a regular production and a limited edition – but it’s the latter that stands out. Both have steel cases, but the limited edition Sonar Kashalot has a bezel fabricated from titanium taken from the hull of the K-322 Kashalot, an Akula-class nuclear submarine that was deployed by the Soviet navy and decommissioned in 2019. Initial thoughts Known for its ostentatiously retro styling strongly evocative of Soviet-era timekeepers, Raketa sticks to its specialty with the Sonar. The design follows the mantra of form follows function: every aspect is catered to someone working in a nuclear-powered submariner. The 24-hour scale, for example, is useful since there is neither night nor day in a submarine. While the execution may not be to everyone’s taste, the originality of the concept is unmistakable. Recycled metal from Soviet nuclear submarines aren’t exactly rare – the Kashalot weighed over 14,000 tonnes fully loaded – but it gives the Sonar an additional degree of novelty and appeal. The submarine-titanium bezel is, however, substantially more expensive and only found on the limited edition. The standard model costs €1,900, and is the quality is as expected for the price. Raketa has improved its quality in recent years,...
SJX Watches
While the headline-grabbing watches of the year often featuring big complications and equally hefty prices, the year’s new launches also included a good number of value buys – both bang for the buck and accessibly priced. We have assembled a list highlighting the best value propositions of 2023, focusing on watches below US$10,000. Leading the list is a collaboration between Louis Erard and Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chakyin – unsurprisingly given Louis Erard’s speciality of making independent watchmaking more accessible. The Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” continues with the whimsical aesthetic of Mr Chaykin’s bestselling Wristmons line, but the Time-Eater only has one eye in order to fit the regulator-style display. Like Louis Erard’s other regulator models, the Time-Eater in either version, 39 mm or 42 mm, is a thick watch at over 12 mm high, while inside is a no-frills Sellita automatic. But at CHF4,000 it was one of the best value buys in terms of independent watchmaking, and also the broader market. The 39 mm Time-Eater A fixture on our annual value-propositions list for some years now is Tudor, which has consistently distinguished itself with well-priced sports watches. Granted, all of the brand’s best products are dive watches – diversity is certainly not its strength for now – but the brand does one thing really well, thanks in large part to its brand-new, expansive manufacture. The brand had three noteworthy models in its line-u...
Monochrome
Gone are the days when dive watches truly challenged watchmakers. The Submariner and Fifty Fathoms battled it out in the 1950s, pushing for just 100 metres of water resistance. Modern tech allows microbrands to hit triple that depth today, so small watchmakers like Peren need to focus on design to really stand out. They’ve done […]
Monochrome
Retro and vintage remain hot topics within the watch industry, as there are tons of good-looking watches available based on popular designs from bygone eras. Within this highly competitive segment of the market, Belgian brand Méraud has slowly but surely found steady ground. Méraud, founded by Stijn Busschaert, strives to find the horological sweet spot […]
Monochrome
Today, IWC Schaffhausen announced partnering with Warner Bros. Picture’s upcoming feature film Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom to launch two new models, inspired by the red and blue glowing prop watches that the brand supplied for the production of the highly-anticipated feature film sequel. Ultra-bold, clearly on the large side, equipped with multiple complications and […]
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