Dive Watches · Page 95

Worn & Wound

Aug 31, 2023

The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is one of the Strangest Releases of the Year

Geneva Watch Days, like any big trade event in the watch industry, means a cluster of brands with new releases, all vying for the attention of the public, and of watch media. The “novelties” that are unveiled during these things are often just that, in the sense that these new releases are perhaps not representative of what a brand will usually produce. They are meant to grab headlines, start conversations, and garner immediate reactions. They’re novel. This year, Doxa showed us that they know how to play the game, with a new watch that quickly became a hot topic all over Watch Internet: the SUB 300β Sharkhunter. What we have here is a SUB 300 in a black ceramic case with 18K gold accents on the bezel and crown. No Doxa has ever expressed this particular kind of understated nightlife vibe ever before, for better or worse. Doxa seems to be leaning into it – their press copy says this watch was built to defy dress codes. Now, I’m an American, an elder millennial, and I feel like I’ve been defying dress codes for as long as I’ve been a functioning adult (I’ve been told we killed Business Casual – you’re welcome). But for some, subverting a dress code might be a serious transgression, and for them, Doxa has a watch made just for you.  The strange thing about the SUB 300β Sharkhunter, beyond the fact that this is a Doxa with solid gold components, a rare occurrence but not unheard of, is the visual impression of the dial. This watch, believe it or not, ha...

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Worn & Wound

Aug 30, 2023

Hands-On: The Eucalyptus Green Ressence Type 3 EE

The Ressence Type 3 collection welcomes a new member this week with the introduction of the serene Type 3 EE. The brand continues to work in subtle and interesting green hues, following up on the sage Type 8S (reviewed here) with this rich eucalyptus green dial. It’s a slightly unconventional execution within the more dramatic Type 3 collection, which we’ve only seen rendered in black and soft white up to this point. In person, the green is a perfect companion to the Type 3’s primary accent colors and rotating dial sets. Given the case it’s set within, that green is given an oil filled canvas for maximum impact.  The Type 3 is one of two oil filled Ressence watches, along with the “world-proof” dive watch, the Type 5. The effect is remarkable in person, and one that I’ve always found core to the Ressence experience. The Type 3 EE features the eucalyptus green on both the font and back panel of the watch (hence the EE), and comes through brilliantly, as though it were painted directly on the crystal, thanks to the oil filled dial. The color is subtle but rich, somehow, and the colors used for the various displays have been desaturated enough to hit the same value scale as the green itself, so as not to create a distracting level of contrast. The Type 3 is on the maximalist side of Ressence, boasting the oil temperature gauge, a dial for the day of the week, and the date itself, on top of the hours, minutes, and seconds, of course. It all leads to a rather dra...

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Hodinkee

Aug 30, 2023

Pre-Owned Picks: An Anniversary Rolex Daytona In Platinum, A Tropical Omega Speedmaster Pro, And A Special Harrods Black Bay From Tudor

Plus a 43mm IWC Big Pilot in green and a TAG Heuer Autavia reissued for a legendary racecar driver.

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Worn & Wound

Aug 29, 2023

Oris Goes Deeper than Ever with the All New AquisPro 4000m

The recent history of dive watches is all about going deeper and deeper beneath the ocean’s surface. Recent releases (and major technological advancements) from Rolex and Omega underscore the continuing interest on the part of brands, collectors, and, we assume, pro divers in maximizing depth ratings, whether for practical purposes or bragging rights. The watches that come out of the research and development around extreme depth resistance have a certain appeal even if you don’t have a particular desire to even get them wet – they are technological marvels, and often compelling design objects with an offbeat aesthetic appeal. Now, Oris is getting in on the act, with a new member of the Aquis family that goes deeper than any before it, the AquisPro 4000m. The headline here is right in the name of the watch: this is an Aquis that is rated to an impressive 4,000 meters of water resistance. While not as robust as Omega’s Ultra Deep which is rated to 6,000 meters, or the truly incomprehensible Deepsea Challenge diver by Rolex that goes to 11,000 meters, this Aquis handily beats other divers in the Aquis family, which are typically rated to 300 meters. It does so with an oversized, multi piece titanium case measuring 49.5mm in diameter and a little over 23mm thick.  I don’t know if there’s an obscure Swiss law that says any dive watch rated over a certain depth rating needs to have some kind of ocean themed dial design, but we get one with the AquisPro 4000m in the ...

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Time+Tide

Aug 29, 2023

The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is a mean-looking diver with a plenty of street cred

Editor’s note: Since publishing this article, Doxa has announced an update to the SUB 300β Sharkhunter as a result of community feedback. The watch will now be offered in both date and no-date variants, with a rectangular marker replacing the date window in the latter.  The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter explores a streetwear aesthetic in … ContinuedThe post The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is a mean-looking diver with a plenty of street cred appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Aug 28, 2023

MB&F; Stuns Again with the Incredible HM9 Sapphire Vision

Back in January 2021, MB&F released what remains one of my all time favorite watches in the “This is Totally Insane” genre of watchmaking. Regular readers will understand that this is actually one of my favorite genres – one that I wish more in our little world would aspire to, because, really, how many black dialed dive watches does one really need? The HM9 SV, short for Sapphire Vision, is, as described, a vision in sapphire. The design of this watch takes the already bonkers HM9 and essentially cases it in an elaborate array of sapphire crystals, with a metal frame holding it all together. The result is an incredible view of the HM9’s movement, which has two independent balance wheels joined by a central differential that averages out their rates for, in theory, more stable timekeeping. And it’s all arranged in a shape inspired by automotive design dating to the 1940s and 1950s, because this is MB&F, and that’s what they do.  Last week, MB&F announced new versions of the HM9 SV, which is noteworthy because component for component, this has to be one of the toughest watches to make in the entire industry. The reason, of course, is because of the extensive use of sapphire, which has to be custom made specifically for these watches to very precise tolerances. And every piece of sapphire used in the HM9 SV is curved. MB&F points out that sapphire cased watches made by some of their competitors are using mostly flat pieces of crystal, held together by screws. Th...

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Hodinkee

Aug 27, 2023

Talking Watches: With Reza Ali Rashidian

The man who owns the greatest dive watch collection on the planet opens up the vault.

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Worn & Wound

Aug 25, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - RG

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader RG shares a trio of killer watches that cover a range of flavors. From complications like a big date and GMT, to simple time only affairs, there’s a lot to love with these three watches.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Mido Multifort TV Big Date – $1,200 With an impressive finishing at the price point and harkening back to the vintage TV case shape, Mido brings their own take on the steel sports watch. With some cues and derivatives from the fames Patek Philippe Aquanaut, Mido makes use of the TV case in a great way. The finishing is outstanding, like we have come to expect from the brand. And it also boasts a proprietary movement that is only shared with Certina. Other features that are very much appreciated are the sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating, see-through case back, that although not the most beautiful movement out there is still nice to look at and the compact size of 40mm in diameter with a lug-to-lug width of 46.5mm that is sure to fit the majority of wrists out there. But perhaps the one that steals the show, as it suggests in the name, is the “big date” complication. A complication normally reserved for high horology masterpieces from the like of A. Lange & Söhne and Glashüte Original. This one was an easy grab for me. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – $1,200 Christopher Ward has long been ...

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Worn & Wound

Aug 25, 2023

Now in the Shop: Two Dive-style Watches from Seiko For Daily Wear

Dive watches are incredibly popular, and for good reason. Rugged looks, go anywhere specs, and a distinct aesthetic make them one of the most common styles of watch amongst enthusiast circles. A true ISO-spec dive watch is no doubt a valuable tool when diving, but may be overkill for your daily needs. Born from the famous lineup of Seiko’s SKX of the past are the new SKX Sports watches from Seiko 5. We have two new models available in the shop, so let’s take a look at these toned-down dive-style watches that are ideal for daily wear. Dive watches are incredibly popular, and for good reason. Rugged looks, go anywhere specs, and a distinct aesthetic make them one of the most common styles of watch amongst enthusiast circles. A true ISO-spec dive watch is no doubt a valuable tool when diving, but may be overkill for your daily needs. Born from the famous lineup of Seiko’s SKX of the past are the new SKX Sports watches from Seiko 5. We have two new models available in the shop, so let’s take a look at these toned-down dive-style watches that are ideal for daily wear. The post Now in the Shop: Two Dive-style Watches from Seiko For Daily Wear appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound

Aug 25, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Watches

When Tudor began teasing a new release over the summer, paired with a countdown clock planted in the wake of a passing boat, speculation quickly ended up in the usual places. A new steel BB58? A GMT Pelagos? Perhaps a regatta timer chronograph? As usual, these guesses ended up off the mark, with Tudor instead revealing a new pair of FXD watches made in conjunction with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. Along with them, a look at some wholly new features that will undoubtedly spur more predictions about what’s to come. After reviewing the FXD upon its launch in 2021, I’ve grown quite fond of the platform, as I often profess on the Worn & Wound podcast, but how well does it hold up in a different trim? The FXD is a watch that works better in person and on the wrist than it does on paper. It’s large and relatively flat stature that touts a lug to lug measurement north of 50mm thanks to a fixed lug design meaning only passthrough straps can be used. But it’s more than all that on the wrist. It wears slim and the widest bit of the lug is under a strap, so while it’s not as easy going as something like the Pelagos 39, it’s perfectly easy to get along with overall. On top of that, it’s got one of the most low-key interesting personalities of any of the mainline dive watches out there. Additionally, after having completed my open water dive certification with the FXD on my wrist every step of the way, I can attest to its qualities under the surface, as well (more on ...

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SJX Watches

Aug 25, 2023

Exhibition: Tudor “The Spirit of Daring Adventure” in Singapore

Centred on its sportier watch offerings, Tudor with its retailer Cortina recently launched The Spirit of Daring Adventure exhibition at Singapore’s Paragon Mall. This unique showcase revolves around themes of exploration, encapsulating the essence of adventure. The exhibition looks at the brand’s evolution, starting from being a provider of timing instruments pivotal to the 1952 British North Greenland Expedition. This led to the inception of the Ranger model, further encompassing contemporary equivalents from the Pelagos and Black Bay collections. A significant attraction is a replica of the M29 Weasel, a tracked vehicle engineered for traversing challenging landscapes. Further highlights include a dedicated showcase of Tudor’s sponsorship in sports, with its newest brand ambassador, Olympic cycling champion Fabian Cancellara. The exhibit includes an exclusive interactive Bike Experience Area, enabling visitors to actively pedal through Tudor’s virtual simulator of the Time Trial Challenge in Crans-Montana. This immersive experience features simulations of the circuit with landscapes and mountains from the competition.  The Spirit of Daring Adventure takes place from August 18-27, 2023 at the Main Atrium of the Paragon Singapore on Orchard Road. It is open to the public daily from 10:00 am-8:30 pm. Paragon Singapore 290 Orchard Road Singapore 238859 To register, visit Cortinawatch.com.  

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Worn & Wound

Aug 24, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Omegas, Surprising Chronographs, & More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Jubilee Skin Diver First up this week is a nice vintage Jubilee diver. Interesting factoid, Jubilee watches were made by Wittnauer/Longines. So while Jubilee may seem like a “no-name” brand, they are in fact a quality watch that was made for a lower price-point market. This Jubilee diver is a nice size, with a stainless steel case that comes in at just under 38mm wide. The case looks to be in good shape and seems unpolished. The black dial has nice patina on the lume, with big baton style hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The crown looks original, and has an unusual marking of “100% W-P”, which I’ve never seen before and is kind of a cool feature. Seller states the 17 jewel manual wind movement runs well. Great vintage diver that should end up reasonably priced. View auction here. Meister-Anker Chronograph Here’s another vintage gem that should be an affordable one. What this vintage Meister-Anker chronograph lacks in name recognition it makes up for in style. The unusually shaped and quite 1970’s style case is chrome plated with a steel back, but the case is in great shape with no pitting and a nice brushed finish, and hidden lugs. The black dial is superb...

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Teddy Baldassarre

Aug 24, 2023

Rolex Daytona: A Comprehensive Guide to the Iconic Racing Chronograph

The Rolex Daytona is today one of the most coveted and collectible luxury watches in the world, and indisputably a legend among racing-inspired chronograph wristwatches. But it was far from an overnight success. Read on to discover how the Rolex Daytona went from languishing on retailers’ shelves in the early 1960s to inspiring years-long waiting lists and stratospheric auction prices in the 21st Century, and how some racetrack cred and Hollywood star power lent a hand along the way. Since its founding in 1905, Rolex has grown to become the world’s undisputed king of luxury sport watches and one of the most influential innovators in watchmaking history. Rolex inventions like the waterproof Oyster case, the self-winding Perpetual movement, and the user-friendly magnifying Cyclops lens have had widespread influence in the watch industry, and iconic watch models like the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master have become the standards against which others in their category are measured. All that said, Rolex was relatively late to the game when it comes to one of the most popular sport-watch fields: the chronograph. By the early 1950s, the decade in which all three of the aforementioned Rolex models debuted, competitors like Breitling, Longines, and Heuer (today’s TAG Heuer), all of whom had established themselves as specialists in chronographs since before the 20th Century, were dominant in the space. Rolex had dabbled with chronograph models intermittently since 1937, b...

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WatchAdvice

Aug 24, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor’s Third Generation Black Bay Heritage 41 Burgundy

After searching for months to try one on, I finally got my hands on the new Tudor Black Bay, and when told I was able to purchase it, I bought it! So how has it been after a month or so on the wrist? Why I Bought It Liked the 5-Link bracelet aestheticWell proportioned case and dialNew T-fit clasp The Ownership Reality Wears well due to the slimmer caseNo date still, slight bug bear of mineAluminium bezel insert is more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 9 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The Back Story The Black Bay Burgundy is now in its third generation or iteration of the watch. Originally released in 2012 to much acclaim, the watch was a great homage to the Tudor and Rolex dive watches of the 50’s. 10 years ago, it was released with an ETA movement and had the now much sought after “smiley” dial, with the lines of text at the bottom being curved making it look as thought the watch was smiling at you. And maybe it was?! This was then updated and launched at Baselworld in 2016 with the Tudor inhouse movement, the MT5602 that was COSC, the smiley removed and now with three lines of text saying it is Chronometer Certified. This is still the case with the current black and blue bezel variants on the love it or hate it faux riveted oyster style bracelet (which was done to mimic the pieces of the 1950’s). All three generations of Black Bay, from the Smiley to the new Master Chronometer However, at Watches an...

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Hodinkee

Aug 23, 2023

Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex Submariner ‘Kermit,’ A Blue Dial Omega Seamaster 300, And A Classique Move From Audemars Piguet

Plus a Master Collection model that highlights the best of Longines alongside a deeply limited Japanese-market Zenith El Primero.

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Time+Tide

Aug 21, 2023

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT has a long name, and an impressive spec sheet

When you’re contemplating buying a watch that is so clearly an homage to an established model, you have to be absolutely sure that you’re getting your money’s worth. There’s no shortage of watches which look like a Rolex just to make quick sales, but the Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT Automatic 1250M is … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT has a long name, and an impressive spec sheet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Teddy Baldassarre

Aug 20, 2023

21 Best Tissot Watches for Men, from Under $600 to $2,000

Founded in 1853 by the father-son team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, Tissot is today one of the largest Swiss watchmakers in the world, with a versatile and varied collection of timepieces for men and women, from dressy to sporty to high-tech, all offering one of the industry’s best value propositions across the board (every watch we showcase here comes in under $2,000). With such a breadth of options, it's difficult to compile a list of the standouts, but for this (admittedly very subjective) compilation of the 21 best Tissot watches we strove to include just about all of Tissot's major collections, with an emphasis on men's watches with mechanical movements, particularly spotlighting the variations on the proprietary Powermatic Caliber 80. (For those who find themselves enthralled by one or more particular models on this list, most are available right here at TeddyBaldassarre.com; just follow the shopping links.) TISSOT SEASTAR Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 Price: $1,075, Case size: 46mm, Thickness: 16.3mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 600 meters, Movement: Automatic Powermatic 80.111 Tissot's ruggedly attractive Seastar family of dive watches, which debuted in the 1960s, welcomed its most robustly engineered member in 2021. The ISO-certified Seastar 2000 entices deep-sea enthusiasts with its integrated helium release valve at 9 o’clock, unidirectional dive-scale bezel with en...

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Worn & Wound

Aug 20, 2023

Now in the Shop: Three Small Mother of Pearl Aquis from Oris

The Aquis is Oris’ vision of what a modern dive watch should be. WIth its sleek and functional design and stainless steel case, the Aquis is a staple in their lineup. Until now, the Aquis has clocked in at a bold 43.5mm in diameter. The integrated bracelet / strap design made this size challenging to wear for smaller wrists, but worry no more. Brand new from the brand is a trio of Aquis timepieces in a manageable 36.5mm case diameter. Let’s take a closer look at what makes these new offerings from the brand so exciting. The Aquis is Oris’ vision of what a modern dive watch should be. WIth its sleek and functional design and stainless steel case, the Aquis is a staple in their lineup. Until now, the Aquis has clocked in at a bold 43.5mm in diameter. The integrated bracelet / strap design made this size challenging to wear for smaller wrists, but worry no more. Brand new from the brand is a trio of Aquis timepieces in a manageable 36.5mm case diameter. Let’s take a closer look at what makes these new offerings from the brand so exciting. The post Now in the Shop: Three Small Mother of Pearl Aquis from Oris appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound

Aug 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention

The dive watch genre is rife with great watches, and many stick to a tried and true formula that was first devised in the early ‘50s with the advent of recreational diving. It’s evolved a bit over the generations, but what made for a great dive watch then, largely still makes for a great dive watch today. Their broad popularity stretches far beyond the bounds of the actual diving community, as the features that make a great dive watch also happen to make them great everyday companions for those that prefer life on dry land. But that doesn’t mean they all have to abide by the same set of rules.  In this Inside the Collection episode, I take a look at 3 dive watches that march to the beat of their own drum in some way, shape, or form, and eschew the established design codes of the genre. You’re probably familiar with one or two of these watches, as we’ve discussed two of them at length before (here, and here), but all three come together to say something important about my own collection, and how I view watches regardless of their label. The Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 seen here will be the subject of an upcoming Missed Review, in which we’ll further explore this era of the famous diver, and some of the ways the collection has diversified itself over the generation. This is watch that’s always found it’s own path, for better or worse, and not only does this specific reference represent something special within the collection, it represents somet...

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Teddy Baldassarre

Aug 17, 2023

Watch Complications: A Comprehensive Guide

A watch complication, by definition, is any function offered by a timepiece that is in addition to its primary function of keeping the time. Despite the name, watch complications don't really have to be, well, all that complicated: that date display you glance at before signing a check qualifies as a complication even though it's not nearly as complex and dynamic as, say, the split-seconds chronograph you use to time racing laps or the world-time function you consult before making a call home on an international business trip. Here we run down the major watch complications from the simplest to the most mechanically sophisticated, and provide an example of each. Date Complications: Date Window Probably the most common of “small complications,” this is simply a display of the date via a numbered disk that passes under an aperture in the dial, usually positioned at 3 o’clock, 4:30, or 6 o’clock. Unless the watch is an annual or perpetual calendar, this date will need to be manually adjusted forward at the end of any month shorter than 31 days. Some watches, like the Rolex Submariner, enlarge this display by placing a magnifying lens over the window. Large Date This one also goes by “big date” “grande date,” or “panorama date,’ and is essentially just a larger version of the standard date display, though it usually uses two date disks (one for the tens numeral and the other for the ones) rather than one, and a double window, with each numeral appearing in...

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Worn & Wound

Aug 17, 2023

Yema Introduces the New Sous Marine Dive Watch, a Contemporary Diver Designed by a Pro

If you look at the most recent crop of releases from Yema, they tend to be explicitly vintage inspired, or calling upon the brand’s past, in one way or another. The Urban Traveler is their take on a 1970s era integrated bracelet sports watch, and a new Rallygraf, with a look dating to a similar time period, also appeared earlier this summer. So their latest release, the Sous Marine dive watch, feels quite a bit different, in that this really has the appearance of a contemporary sports watch in a variety of key ways. Designed with help from Jason Washington, a Yema ambassador and professional diver, the Sous Marine has the trappings of a modern “pro” dive watch, but remains accessible to desk divers and those looking for some color and competence in an everyday piece.  The stainless steel case, which is water resistant to 300 meters, was designed to be compact and wearable, and measures 40.5mm in diameter while being just a hair over 12mm tall (including the sapphire crystal). The muscular crown guards are perhaps the first clue that this watch wasn’t designed purely by browsing old Yema catalogs. The aluminum bezel insert is perhaps a small remnant of the way these things used to be made, but even there the Arabic numerals and and hash marks to aid in timing have been given a luminescent treatment, which to me often feels like a wholeheartedly “contemporary” design decision.  The dial is split into multiple sectors, with an inner ring in white that displays t...

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Two Broke Watch Snobs

Aug 17, 2023

Seiko Marinemaster: Is It The Quintessential Seiko Dive Watch?

Often overlook but never forgotten by watch enthusiasts, is the Seiko Marinemaster the ideal dive watch? Read our review for all the facts.

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Deployant

Aug 16, 2023

New: Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition

Tudor releases two new Pelagos FXD references. The Alinghi Red Bull Racing Editions feature a chronograph and a time only watch inspired by yacht racing.

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Time+Tide

Aug 16, 2023

Gal Gadot arms herself with a Hublot Big Bang E Black Magic in Netflix’s Heart of Stone

James Bond has his Omega Seamaster, Dirk Pitt has his Doxa, Six has his TAG Heuer Carrera, and now Rachel Stone has a Hublot Big Bang E Black Magic. Recently released on Netflix on August 11, Wonder Woman and Fast & Furious actor Gal Gadot and husband Jason Varsano have teamed up to produce the … ContinuedThe post Gal Gadot arms herself with a Hublot Big Bang E Black Magic in Netflix’s Heart of Stone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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