Time+Tide
A novel take on a world timer, this Reverso has a 'Grande Date' on the main dial side, and an inverted world time disc on the reverse.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre flips the script on a worldtimer with the Reverso Tribute Geographic (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
One brand stands out to me in the avalanche of new releases during Watches and Wonders this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a remarkable series of new Reversos displaying an extensive range of models. The stellar Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold on the mesh bracelet is the absolute standout. For me, it is […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Black And Blue to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In a rare move, Rolex has unveiled an all-new bracelet, the Settimo, that goes with the Perpetual 1908. Comprised of seven polished and rounded links, the Settimo is vintage in style and available only in yellow gold for now, to match the 1908 in the same metal. Though unusual for Rolex, the new bracelet is typical Rolex in quality and construction, making it robust despite the compact links and supple feel. It also incorporates the Crownclasp with its hidden, spring-loaded locking mechanism. Initial thoughts Unlike the new GMT-Master II, the Settimo on the 1908 is unexpected. The original 1908 was already surprising when it was launched two years ago, since it was Rolex’s first new attempt at a dress watch in a long time. The supple Settimo bracelet is unlike other Rolex bracelets, which tend to be heavy and solid. Both in terms of look and feel, the pairs well with the 1908, which is one of the thinnest Rolex models with an Oyster case. The retro straight end links are also a nice touch. When purchased together, the 1908 on a bracelet costs about US$12,000 over the same on a strap, which makes the bracelet something of a value buy in terms of precious metal bracelets. The bracelet can be retrofitted to a 1908 originally sold with a strap, but it costs substantially more on its own. The only downside of the new bracelet is the fact that it’s only available in yellow gold, for now at least. I expect it’ll be rolled out across the 1908 progressively over time. Settimo...
SJX Watches
One of the most distinctive versions of Cartier’s signature rectangular watch, the Tank à Guichets has been revived as part of the Privé collection, joining watches like the Tortue Monopoussoir and Tank Cintree. The last time Cartier had such a model in its catalogue was exactly 20 years ago with the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) iteration. Sporting a crown at 12 o’clock like some historical examples of the model, the Tank à Guichets indicates the time in twin apertures, with jumping hours at 12 o’clock and minutes at six. Measuring a slim 6 mm in height, the Tank à Guichets (or “Tank with Windows”) is powered by a new in-house movement, the cal. 9755 MC. Notably, it will be a regular production model in yellow or rose gold, as well as platinum, plus an asymmetrical or “oblique” model that is limited to 200 pieces. The regular production models (left), and limited edition Initial thoughts The Tank à Guichets was always one of my favourite iterations of the Tank, and the popularity of the preceding version made it almost inevitable that Cartier would revive the design. The new Tank à Guichets is subtly different from the CPCP version, most notably in its slim profile, but still looks and feels correct. The finishing on the case is excellent, particularly on the polished bevels that frame the apertures. The movement, on the other hand, is concealed behind a solid back but is industrial in finish and style. That said, it is an integrated calibre ...
Hodinkee
Cartier's jump hour makes a triumvirate return after a 20-year hiatus (and scratches that vintage itch better than almost anything else).
Worn & Wound
Bremont, Bremont, Bremont. What are we to make of Bremont? It’s been a year now since Bremont first announced their Terra Nova collection alongside a complete corporate rebrand, and while we’ve seen the brand expand the Terra Nova line a few times since then with new colorways and materials, Bremont had - until now, that is - kept the lineup of their field watch fairly restrained. Now, we’re seeing them break away from the trio of models they released last year with a pair of jump hour models; one in bronze, the other in steel. Built around a “unique and exclusive” jumping hour movement developed by Bremont with Sellita, the Bremont Jumping Hour 40.5 Steel and Jumping Hour Bronze are a fun take on what has been a fairly down-the-middle field watch by integrating what is a surprisingly long-standing wristwatch complication. Jumping hour wristwatches have been around since at least the 1920s - Cartier introduced, by way of example, the Tank à Guichets in 1928 - and have remained a constant in the century since. Here, Bremont is offering up two distinct takes on the concept, each in the rough format of the Terra Nova. The stainless steel Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hours 40.5 Steel takes after watches like the Fears Brunswick jump hour, with a traditional sweep seconds hand, and a jump hour and minute window sitting at 9 o’clock. All this is supplemented by a black lacquer dial, with luminous material throughout and the minute track off of a standard Te...
Monochrome
The Tribute Duoface Small Seconds stands out as one of the finest modern expressions of the timeless Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre. First presented in 1994, the Duoface concept does not offer caseback engraving options. Instead, it compensates with the added functionality of a second time zone display on the reverse side, making full use of its […]
Fratello
It’s not like you’re going to play polo any time soon anyway, so why not have your Reverso complicated and with two dials? Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Geographic and Minute Repeater, showing once again that the brand knows how to tastefully combine a classic design with horological technicity. Both complications are not just fascinating […] Visit In Case You Like Your Reverso Complicated: Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents The Reverso Tribute Geographic And Minute Repeater to read the full article.
Fratello
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to go big with its Reverso collection once more. Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced this watch meant for polo players nearly a century ago. Today, however, watch enthusiasts and collectors consider the Reverso a dress watch more than anything else. With the latest Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in full pink gold […] Visit Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Cartier brings back one of its most coveted, brutalist designs.The post We go hands-on with Cartier’s new redesign of the legendary 1928 Privé Tank à Guichets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A new take on a Reverso worldtimer.
Monochrome
Louis Cartier’s Tank watch, introduced in 1917, marked a before and after in men’s wristwatches. Breaking with the taste for ornately decorated cases, the Tank Normale’s geometric case, inspired by an aerial view of armoured Renault tanks deployed in WW1, was a precursor of the clean minimalist lines of Art Deco. Thanks to its well-executed […]
Revolution
Monochrome
Since 1991, Jaeger-LeCoultre has marked each new decade of the Reverso with a special edition, beginning with the Soixantième, which celebrated the model’s 60th anniversary. Introduced in 1931, the Reverso remained a time-only watch until this milestone edition became the first to feature complications. A decade later, the Septantième showcased the brand’s expertise in movement […]
Deployant
Next up, Jaeger-LeCoultre. We focus our view on two highlights, both from the Reverso collection. The Geographic and the Minute Repeater.
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a series of Reverso timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2025 that are sure to pull the heartstrings of any Reverso lover.
Monochrome
The Streamliner collection was introduced by H. Moser & Cie in 2020 and was an overnight success. Its groovy integrated cushion design was fresh, original and brilliantly executed. Since its inception, we’ve seen a wide range of time-only, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and chronograph models, and even several fascinating skeletonised iterations. Moser also loves to play […]
Monochrome
Since its introduction in 1932, many consider the Calatrava reference 96 as the paragon of an elegant dress watch. Although the collection has expanded in different directions, fans of the classical, timeless, time-only, ultra-slim, manual-winding dress watch will be pleased to learn about the latest Calatrava released during Watches & Wonders 2025. With its vintage-inspired […]
Time+Tide
The most romantic of complications features in the new Reverso Tribute piece.The post The Reverso Minute Repeater showcases Jaeger LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares in the best light possible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Patek Philippe introduces a new and powerful manual-winding calibre for the equally new Calatrava 8 Day Ref. 5328G. As you have gleaned from the name, the new twin barrel movement delivers an impressive 192-hour or 8-day power reserve. While the watch is officially a Calatrava, it shares traits with the more casual aesthetic of the […]
Monochrome
We are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with records continuously being shattered and timepieces at a level of thinness that would have been almost unimaginable just a few years ago… At Watches and Wonders 2024, Piaget clinched the record for the thinnest tourbillon ever with its Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, measuring a […]
Monochrome
Let’s push on several open doors… One, Cartier, the French jeweller-watchmaker, is the master of shaped watches. Second, Cartier’s most emblematic watch is, undoubtedly, the Tank. Third, there are actually dozens of Tank watches, and the depth of the collection goes far beyond the Tank LC and the Tank Normale. With this in mind, and […]
SJX Watches
For the first time since 1998, and for only the second time in the nearly 100-year history of its most iconic model, Jaeger-LeCoultre has squeezed a world timer into the Reverso. The result is the Reverso Tribute Geographic, which features a demure primary dial with an outsize date on one side and an exquisite world time display on the other. The Geographic is available in a stainless steel case with a blue dial or as part of a 150-piece limited edition in 18k rose gold featuring a chocolate brown dial. Both models share the same dimensions, which are unfortunately a bit on the large side. Initial thoughts There’s a lot to like about the Reverso Geographic. Reversos like this that hide a complication on the second dial are deeply appealing to me, and carry with them the thrill of keeping a secret. It also gives the watch a split personality, enabling the wearer to choose the dial that matches their mood. While I immediately liked the concept of the Geographic, I was slightly disappointed to see the dimensions, which match those of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph launched in 2023. At 49.4 mm long by 29.9 mm wide, the Geographic is among the larger Reversos, meaning it loses some of the intended vintage charm. That said, the size is a consequence of its functionality – a smaller case size would make the world time display unreasonably small. One of the things I liked about the Tribute Chronograph that also applies to the Geographic is the fact that it’s very much a sle...
SJX Watches
The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross. Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal. Initial thoughts This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion. I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually. The Patrimony Self-Winding duo Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date. Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial. Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism. This 4 Hz movement platform has a relat...
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