Dress Watches · Page 25

It’s Time To Elevate Your Time-Only Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso With A Classical Complication

First Look – The New Raúl Pagès RP2, a Sublime Take on the Time-Only Watch

The last few days before Watches and Wonders are undoubtedly the busiest period for the MONOCHROME team, with all the preparations for what will be the highlight of the horological year… If squeezing in more shootings and visits is becoming challenging, making time to visit Raúl Pagès to discover his latest opus was a no-brainer […]

Raúl Pagès Returns with the RP2

Three years after his RP1 wristwatch, Raúl Pagès has taken the covers off the RP2. Inheriting the clean aesthetic that characterised his earlier creation, the RP2 is a three-hand watch with a dial of white agate. Inside is a hand-wind movement modelled on historical precision chronometers. Mr Pagès has turned to specialists for many of the raw components of the RP2, and instead focuses on decorating and completing the watches, allowing him to plan to produce the 50-piece edition over two years. Initial thoughts The sheer number of time-only watches launched by “artisanal” independent watchmakers has made the concept mostly uninteresting for me. Mr Pagès’ new creation is yet another time-only watch with a highly finished movement. But Mr Pagès is the real deal. He is an actual watchmaker who can create with his hands, and more than that, Mr Pagès is also a restorer who worked for Parmigiani in the past. His background and skill set him apart, and because of this the RP2 also stands out from the rest of the time-only crowd. Though simple on its face, the RP2 incorporates interesting details, ranging from the hands to the raised flange around the dial. These reflect Mr Pagès’ thoughtful approach to watchmaking. But above all, his approach is exemplified by the movement, which is clearly a calibre that has a robust construction and refined finishing. Personally I would change a few elements  of the design, which feels too empty and stark as it stands. However,...

Introducing: Breitling's New Top Time B31 Measures 38mm (Live Pics)

And brand ambassador Austin Butler fronts the time-only mid-size (hurrah) campaign.

Longines: Bring Back the HAQ

The grab-and-go quartz watch is a trope in this hobby. Similar to the line of thinking that “I have to have a chronograph, and a dive watch, and a dress watch,” the grab-and-go quartz is there to fill a niche, one which relegates the quartz watch to one of last resort. It’s a grudging admission of the functional superiority of the movement type, but doesn’t give it the dignity of something you would choose, if you had time.

Introducing – The New Nomos Minimatik 39 Date Collection

The Nomos Minimatik is a small family of slim watches, a 35.5mm model with just two dial variations, powered by the brand’s in-house DUW 3001 Neomatik automatic movement. Expanding the collection, Nomos Glashütte now introduces three new references, the Minimatik 39 Date, marking the brand’s latest addition to the dress watch category. The new Nomos […]

Cartier Crash: The Ultimate Guide to the Oddball Icon

As the enduring popularity of pre-worn and “distressed” denim should prove, fashion sometimes embraces wear and tear, or at least the illusion of such, as a bold stylistic statement. The phenomenon can also occasionally be found, albeit perhaps less overtly, in the world of watches. Consider the fascinating case of the Cartier Crash, a watch whose wildly unconventional, “banged-up” shape has made it not just a curiosity but one of the world’s most collectible timepieces - a quirky icon from a watchmaker with no shortage of iconic designs to its credit. The Crash has been around, mostly floating along the periphery of the watch-industry mainstream, since the 1960s, in various iterations, and while it has never achieved the household-name popularity of Cartier watches like the Tank and Santos, it has also never really gone out of style, either. Here is a primer on the Cartier Crash, and perhaps even a little insight on how it has stayed relevant in the marketplace, nearly six decades after its debut. Photo: Bonhams Let’s start at the beginning, with one of the main sources of the Crash’s multigenerational appeal, its decidedly lurid and now-debunked origin story. As legend had it, the Crash’s curvy, bent case design was inspired by a fatal automobile accident: the owner of a Cartier Baignoire Allongé - an oval-cased watch, example above - was wearing it when he perished in a fiery car crash (hence the name) and the watch, once recovered from the wrecka...

Why everyone from Muhammad Ali to Andy Warhol fell for the Cartier Tank

How did this discreet piece of Gallic perfection reach icon status? Read on - the origin story of the Cartier Tank may surprise you.The post Why everyone from Muhammad Ali to Andy Warhol fell for the Cartier Tank appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: A Hard to Find JDM Seiko, A Bulova Accutron with the Original Box, and a Cool Vantage Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vantage Chronograph First up this week is a gorgeous vintage Vantage chronograph. The original and mint black and white “reverse panda” dial is just a beauty, with perfectly aged lume. Similar styling to the famous Heuer Carrera, that’s why it’s referred to as a “poor man’s Carrera”, but honestly aside from the name, this watch is just as good at a very reasonable price. The steel case is nice and sharp, and the Valjoux 7733 manual wind movement is clean as a whistle and runs well per the seller. If you’re looking for a nice vintage chronograph, it’s hard to beat this Vantage. View auction here Bulova Sea King Here’s an unusual Bulova Sea King. The oval style steel case definitely stands out with its unique shape. Unpolished, with original finish and crisp edges. The N0 date code dates the watch to 1970. The charcoal dial is excellent, with the Sea King Whale logo and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The watch comes on a period-correct stretch band that definitely suits the watch if you like the stretch bands. There is no movement picture but the watch runs well per the seller.  View auction here Vintage Lord Elgin  This vintage Lord Elgin is a sweet dress watch, ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models

Another Friday, another list! Multiple people on the Fratello team own or have owned a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. One of them is Daan, who has a beautiful Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds. He usually wears it on a leather and canvas Casa Fagliano strap. Last week, though, he swapped it for an Arroway mesh bracelet, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models to read the full article.

One and Done? Dress Watch or Sports Watch?

In Tamim Almousa's opinion, a dress watch is serious. Presidential. It requires no explanation or backstory, no excuse or justification. It just is.

Krayon’s Anyday is a Day-Date “Mechanical Planner”

Krayon continues with its focus on calendar-related complications with the Anyday. Coming after the Anywhere and Everywhere, the Anyday is not an astronomical complication, but rather a seemingly-simple watch, albeit one with a twist. The Anyday is more than just a basic calendar watch as it offers an intuitive way of visualising the days of a month. Krayon describes the Anyday as a “mechanical planner”, with its display giving a complete view of the current month’s layout in terms of dates and weekends via a colour-coded date display. Initial thoughts Since the Anyday shows the days of the week over the course of a month, the utility of the concept is clear. It allows the wearer to tell if a certain future date will be a Monday or Tuesday, for example. Design wise, the Anyday also continues with Krayon’s established aesthetic, resulting in a recognisable house style. The quality of execution also lives up to the earlier Krayon timepieces. The movement is carefully finished and bears the hallmarks now requisite in high-end independent watchmaking, while the dial is clean and conveys the Krayon aesthetic well. The weekday planning function is useful and conceptually interesting, but it is little disappointing in mechanical terms, especially in comparison to the Anywhere and Everywhere, which are true complication powerhouses. An annual calendar or another basic calendar complication would have made the proposition a little more appealing. That is not to say the Anyd...

Introducing: The Hamilton Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition

Hamilton is no stranger to working with creative teams behind movies to produce imaginative watches. Now, with the introduction of the Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition, the brand has a watch appearing in an upcoming video game. It’s a fusion between a traditional tank and a futuristic techno-apocalyptic creation. This watch is most definitely […] Visit Introducing: The Hamilton Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition to read the full article.

The Story Behind the Havid Nagan Classic One with Founder Aren Bazerkanian

Last year, one of the most intriguing watches I had a chance to handle was Havid Nagan’s debut, the HN00. I spent a few weeks with it right around the time brand founder Aren Bazerkanian was promoting his second release, the HN01. Now, another year later, and Havid Nagan is back with their third effort, the Classic One. The new naming convention speaks to just how different the Classic One is from its predecessors, and reflects the brand pivoting and changing in real time. In speaking with Bazerkanian, however, it’s clear that those shifts reflect a deep confidence in his own vision, and not merely commercial practicality.  “About two years ago, I found myself digging deeper and deeper into the vintage market,” Bazerkanian explained to me, when asked about the inspiration for the Classic One. “Namely, I was very interested in learning about vintage Patek 96 references, Urban Jurgensen, and Parmigiani Fleurier.” The Classic One, as the name implies, evokes classic dress watches like the ones mentioned by Bazerkanian, and many others. The 38mm case is just 9mm tall, making for an ideal wearing experience that isn’t exactly “vintage” in feel, but it’s adjacent to it. The case construction and finishing is very much that of a modern watch, with sharp transitions and clearly defined lines.  But it wasn’t just vintage watches on Bazerkanian’s mind when he set about to create the Classic One. “My wife and I had welcomed our daughter,” he told me, “...

A Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Shreve, Crump & Low

One of the oldest jewellers in the United States, Shreve, Crump & Low (SC&L) has turned to Laurent Ferrier (LF) for the Classic Origin SC&L x LF, a tasteful take on the brand’s manual-wind, time-only wristwatch. Boston-based SC&L was founded in 1796, but the new Classic Origin adopts a restrained aesthetic in blue and bronze that’s a welcome departure from the sector dials and Breguet numerals that characterise many of LF’s recent editions. Available in either stainless steel or red gold, the SC&L edition is LF116.01, a hand-wind calibre that’s LF’s most accessible movement but still features refined touches like a linear winding click in polished steel. Initial thoughts I like the fact that the SC&L edition adopts LF’s signature style while avoiding overused elements like a sector layout in “salmon” or green. This instantly sets the SC&L version apart from most other Classic Origin iterations. Furthermore, the combination of grained blue and satin gold on the dial is unusual but appealing as it gives the watch a contemporary feel that works well with LF’s low-key “Galet” style. And the discreet SC&L logo above the seconds is an elegant touch. The SC&L edition being a manual-wind Classic Origin is both a pro and a con. It’s an advantage because of affordability; the Classic Origin is LF’s most accessible timepiece; the steel SC&L edition costs US$42,000. However, the calibre inside doesn’t have the same level of detail as the micro-rotor automat...

The Evolution of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Movement

A look back at the movements behind the most significant Calatrava models, from the first cal. 12-120 in the ref. 96 to the latter-day cal. 30-255 PS in the Clous de Paris ref. 6119.

The Evergreens – An Interesting Case… The History of the Almost Century-Old Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Today, there is only one Reverso, with Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on its dial, but this was not always the case. During the 1930s, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Cartier made watches that used the Reverso case for their timepieces. Moreover, the 1931 Reverso was not the first reversible case design. A few years earlier, Universal Geneve […]

Only For Japan – The Biver Automatique with Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre continue their journey of independent horology with the Biver Automatique Japan Edition. Made in collaboration with its retailer in Japan, this special release is based on the time-only automatic debuted last year, but reimagined to cater to the traditionally classical taste of the Japanese collector. The minimalist edition debuts in two elegant variants that explore the contrast of light and shadow through hard-fired enamel made by an enamel workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. A stark white enamel dial is paired with a platinum case, while the high-contrast version matches a glossy black dial with a rose gold case – both share a clean, old-school aesthetic with applied markers and a railway minute track. A tribute to the Japanese collector The Automatique epitomises Biver’s neoclassical and elaborate approach to watchmaking, which blends careful detailing with hand-finishing techniques, for both habillage and the movement. Now the Japan Edition further refines the approach, condensing the more elaborate execution of the original versions into something more traditional, more classical, and arguably more reflective of the taste of Japanese enthusiasts. The two distinct models pay homage to the Japanese appreciation of minimalist aesthetics combined with high quality and precision execution, along with a well-established love of mid-century precision Swiss wristwatches. The clarity of the vintage-inspired design makes the Japan Edition ...

Tissot Introduces the PRC 100 Collection with a New Solar Powered Movement

There are a number of watchmaking technologies that are tough to appreciate until you’ve actually spent considerable time with a watch. Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive comes to mind, especially if you’re inclined to constantly check your watch’s accuracy. The consistency over time of a Spring Drive movement is kind of mindblowing if you’re used to “normal” mechanical watches. Similarly, high accuracy quartz, from any brand, is tough to wrap your arms around until you’ve gone months without needing a reset because your watch is keeping time to within a second or two. And ultra-thin watches deserve a mention here as well. A watch that you literally forget you’re wearing because it’s so thin can be a special thing when properly executed.  But in terms of actually making your day to day life easier, there are few technologies that match the practicality of solar powered timekeeping. There are a bunch of brands that offer watches with solar movements, and for some it’s really become their stock-in-trade. Today, Tissot expands their solar offerings with the new PRC 100 Solar collection, bringing an aging collection up to date with some modern tech that should have broad appeal to both the mass market and the most sensible, practical, enthusiasts among us.  The PRC 100 was originally introduced in the mid 2000s and is easily identified by its dodecagonal bezel. PRC is an acronym that stands for “Precise, Robust, and Classic,” which seems like the right canv...

Interview: Ming Thein on the All New Project 21, a Tantalum Dress Watch with a Restored Vintage Movement

If MING Watches isn’t on your radar, I don’t really know what to tell you. The brand, which has been around since 2017 and was founded by photographer and watch enthusiast Ming Thein (his current job title at the brand, at least according to LinkedIn, is ‘Supreme Overlord’), has stood at the forefront of the small independent movement since the day it launched, and has been a tremendous object lesson in the ability and aspiration of small brands.  In the nearly eight years since the brand launched, they’ve made a lot of very cool watches, and possibly cooler than the watches themselves has been the diversity of their offering - diversity in style, functionality, and (notably) price. Now, MING has released its latest marvel, the MING 21.01 ‘Project 21,’ a dream watch for Ming himself and a clear summation of what the brand has been and done up to this point while offering a glimpse into the eponymous founder’s head and maybe even offering some clues as to what will come next for the brand. So what is the Project 21? Well, put simply, it’s a 35mm tantalum-cased dress watch built around a historically significant ultra-thin movement. Factor in a little more nuance, and it’s exceedingly clear that the Project 21 is an experiment in pushing the brand to its limits, just to see where those limits happen to be. The new watch, which will only be available in extraordinarily limited quantities, was inspired by a challenge thrown down at a 2023 collector’s d...

IWC Portugieser Buyer's Guide

IWC is a Swiss watch company, founded by an American, whose history is closely tied with Germany. But one of its most enduringly popular timepiece families is called the Portugieser, and it’s likely that lots of enthusiasts and would-be owners don’t even know why - or that the watch itself preceded that now-familiar name by many decades. What's indisputable is the Portugieser's key role in IWC's history and its impact on watchmaking - from its humble origins as a market-specific experiment to its modern incarnation as a major pillar of IWC's collection.   1939: Two Portuguese Businessmen Walk Into a Watch Factory… Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. Actually, don’t bother, because I’ll be retelling the origin story of the IWC Portugieser anyway, for those who aren’t familiar with it. Like much of the rest of the world, in the throes of the Great Depression and under the gathering storm clouds of a second World War, the Swiss watch industry was facing rough economic times in the 1930s. The International Watch Company, based in Schaffhausen in Switzerland’s German-speaking north, dealt with the challenges in a number of practical ways. One was by making wristwatches that could be worn by military pilots for the aerial combat that was looking increasingly inevitable. (I tell that story in much more detail here.) Another was by expanding its reach to international markets such as Portugal. Thus it came to be that two gentlemen by the name of Antonio...

Hands-on – A Quick Encounter with the Salmon Art-Deco Cartier Tank Américaine in Platinum

The name Tank at Cartier means far more than just a watch… It’s an entire range of watches, all distinguished by some design elements first defined by the so-called Tank Normale of 1917. From there, the collection expanded to dozens of designs, such as the Tank Louis Cartier, the Cintrée, the Française and the Asymétrique, […]

Havid Nagan Comes of Age with the Classic One

Having made its debut two years ago with the Schwarz Etienne-powered HN00, Havid Nagan returns with Classic One, a chronometer-certified dress watch with a multi-layered dial. Available in two dial finishes, ebony or ivory, the Classic One takes the nascent brand in a new, more traditional direction. The Havid Nagan brand was launched on Kickstarter in 2019 by Aren Bazerkanian, who at the time was working as Director of Operations at the FP Journe boutique in Los Angeles. One of the guiding principles of Havid Nagan is an emphasis on slimness, which is an obsession that Mr Bazerkanian picked up from his time working for Mr Journe. Initial thoughts The original HN00 and subsequent HN01 were thoughtful and appealing watches, but the Classic One feels like a more mature product. In my opinion, the debut models were a bit overambitious with their proprietary strap system, which, though sleek and attractive, result in the risk of not being able to find replacement straps in the future. The Classic One, on the other hand, is more traditional in its construction, with classic lugs that can accommodate a variety of straps (the watch comes standard with straps from Jean-Rousseau). As a result of being more classical in orientation, the central feature of the Classic One is its multi-part dial with an unusual construction made up of clear sapphire sandwiched by brass discs. Finished with applied Calatrava-style hour markers, the overall effect is dynamic and attractive. In terms of...

Video: Inside The History And Archives Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Exploring the legacy of JLC's enduring Art-Deco classic.