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Dress Watches · Page 26

And You May Ask Yourself, “Well, how did I get here?” – Dealing With Imposter Syndrome in the Watch Community Worn & Wound
Feb 26, 2025

And You May Ask Yourself, “Well, how did I get here?” – Dealing With Imposter Syndrome in the Watch Community

I attended my first watch meetup with a generic quartz dress watch on my wrist and two budget mechanical watches stuffed into my pockets. In my right pocket was a one hand Luch, a watch that was as quirky as it was inexpensive (I think I paid $50 on Amazon, a lot for me at the time), thanks to a single hand that worked its way around a 12 hour dial about twice per day. I say “about” because it wasn’t very accurate, but I didn’t care. I’d spent hours researching my first mechanical watch before spending my hard earned cash, and was genuinely proud to own it. My left pocket housed a broken HMT Pilot, a watch that unlike the Luch that had been purchased out of pure enthusiasm, I knew little about. Of course, it wasn’t broken when I’d bought it, and the debate of whether or not it even belonged in my pocket at all was one that had caused me considerable stress in the hours leading up to the meetup. As a pandemic era watch enthusiast, I cut my horological teeth behind the safety of my phone screen. Like bowling with bumpers, the internet spoon fed me confidence in a secure environment, letting me compose painstakingly researched opinions into carefully curated comments before posting anonymously on a forum. And, if that comment received criticism, this informative and safe environment allowed me to make it disappear forever with a single click. But as the pandemic fizzled out and restrictions were lifted, the watch community I’d become a part of through various ...

Hands On: Cartier Tank Américaine “Art Deco” SJX Watches
Feb 24, 2025

Hands On: Cartier Tank Américaine “Art Deco”

Launched quietly last year as limited production runs of the standard model, the Tank Américaine “Art Deco” gives a striking new look to a familiar model that was first introduced in 1989. Though the Art Deco-style dial is mostly associated with the low-cost (and low-end) Tank Must de Cartier, it has been artfully applied to the Américaine with varying surface finishing and thoughtful details. The result is a Tank Américaine that looks radically different from the standard model, while being priced the same. Initial thoughts The Tank Américaine was conceived as a modern take on the Tank Cintrée, but because of its wider availability, numerous variants, and comparatively affordable pricing, the Américaine has become something of a poor cousin in the eyes of enthusiasts. The new variants of the Tank Américaine, however, are clearly trying to change that. They look and feel more upscale with the “Art Deco” dials that do away with the central seconds, which are long standard for automatic versions of the Tank Américaine. The yellow gold version Both are identical in dimensions. The case is a little wider and thicker than the Cintrée, so it’s not quite as elegant. And the 1899 MC movement inside is in-house but industrial and not as sophisticated as the manual-wind calibres (that are either Piaget or Jaeger-LeCoultre) in the Cintrée. But the Américaine “Art Deco” is more affordable, with the yellow gold version priced a little over US$16,000. The “Art...

Wear A Rolex If You Want To Be Different - A Rolex Perpetual 1908 Dress Watch, That Is Fratello
Feb 24, 2025

Wear A Rolex If You Want To Be Different - A Rolex Perpetual 1908 Dress Watch, That Is

Wearing a Rolex signals different things. The most obvious ones are success and money. Conformity is another one. Wearing a watch from The Crown is like saying, “I made it, and I want everybody to know it.” I’m sorry, Rolex fans who admire the brand for its technical innovations, achievements, et cetera. For most, the […] Visit Wear A Rolex If You Want To Be Different - A Rolex Perpetual 1908 Dress Watch, That Is to read the full article.

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold Burgundy SJX Watches
Feb 21, 2025

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold Burgundy

While the original Seamaster 300M from 2019 was a no-frills, James Bond-inspired watch, the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold and Burgundy is a refined evolution of the design that employs Omega’s proprietary gold alloy. Used by Omega as well as its sister company Blancpain, Bronze Gold is an alloy of bronze, palladium, silver, and 37.5% gold - making it a 9k gold alloy - that has enhanced corrosion resistance while having the warm hue of bronze but without the accentuated patina that accompanies conventional versions of the metal. Aside from the Bronze Gold case and burgundy bezel, the design remains virtually unchanged, retaining the signature “twisted” lugs of the Seamaster. Initial thoughts Omega has introduced several variants of the model since the Seamaster 300M 007 Edition, among them the recent “No-Date”. This time-only design, which omits the date window, has enjoyed commercial success, highlighting the appeal of a cleaner dial, especially on a watch with some vintage flavour. In this context, the Seamaster 300M Bronze Gold is a natural evolution of the collection, bringing it upmarket as is the norm for a successful model. The upgrade, however, comes at a price. At US$13,900 on a rubber strap, the Bronze Gold edition is more than twice the price of the steel model. And the version on a matching Bronze Gold mesh bracelet costs a whopping US$27,900. Granted, the new Seamaster 300M is gold, but not really, since it’s a 9k alloy, which is far below th...

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery SJX Watches
Feb 18, 2025

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery

IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-03 Astro Worn & Wound
Feb 17, 2025

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-03 Astro

A few months back at a watch collector’s get together, I was asked by a friend how we at Worn & Wound decide what to write about when it comes to new releases. It’s a good question. Obviously, we can’t cover everything, so decisions have to be made somewhere about what we devote time and energy to, and what we ultimately think is less essential. Obviously, there are a number of brands that are almost always going to be somewhat newsworthy and of interest to our readers, and they tend to be prioritized. There are also watches that are of a more personal interest to some of us, maybe less commercial, but still noteworthy in some respect. A category, though, that almost always makes it through, is when a watch comes around that makes me want to check off the “unique” button in our content management system. Not a diver, not a dress watch, not sport or tactical. A watch that can only or primarily be described as “unique” is almost always going to get a pass.  Bell & Ross has a knack for these, and the latest is the BR-03 Astro, a 999 piece limited edition inspired by nothing less than outer space, and our own solar system. Bruno Belamich, the brand’s co-founder and creative director, says he was inspired specifically by the view of the earth from the observation dome, the Cupola, of the International Space Station. The dial is blue aventurine (obviously evoking a star filled sky) with the brilliant blue, spherical representation of earth at its center. An engr...

eBay Finds: A Funky Speedmaster, a Hamilton LED, and a Beautiful Benrus with the Full Kit Worn & Wound
Feb 14, 2025

eBay Finds: A Funky Speedmaster, a Hamilton LED, and a Beautiful Benrus with the Full Kit

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Benrus Starting off this week with a classic Benrus 3 Star vintage dress watch. The yellow gold fill case has a nice slim bezel and slim lugs, and is in excellent condition. The silver dial has a really neat radial brushed finish that radiates outward to the right from the 9 o’clock side, very unusual. There is a gold framed round date window at 6 o’clock that has a matching round date magnifier window in the original acrylic crystal. The watch comes on a gold tone stretch bracelet that probably isn’t original but is definitely period correct. This gem comes in the original Benrus box. Runs well per the seller, but no picture of the automatic movement.  View auction here Vintage Hamilton LED Watch Another week, another vintage LED watch. These seem to be coming out of the woodwork lately for some reason. But I’m glad they are because they are just too retro-cool. This example is a vintage Hamilton with its original bracelet and box and hangtag. The watch is gold plated, with a slim, space-age case and integrated bracelet. The seller states the bracelet will fit a 7.25” wrist max, and snugly at that, so keep this in mind if you have a larger wrist. The watch runs, and ...

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 14, 2025

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Guide

After a relatively short time in the international market — and an even shorter time as a truly independent brand rather than an elevated product family — Grand Seiko has indisputably come into its own as a top-tier luxury watchmaker. Despite the inescapable fact that it still shares ownership and an industrial base with the parent Seiko brand, Grand Seiko has successfully put distance between its high-end output and Seiko’s more accessible, mass-market offerings. In fact, one could argue that enthusiasts and collectors have largely pigeonholed Grand Seiko as the luxurious, elegant dress watch brand and “Regular” Seiko as the sports- and tool-watch brand. But this perception would not be entirely accurate. Grand Seiko makes its own fair share of sporty timepieces with robustly built cases, less-than-modest case dimensions, and practical functions and complications, despite packaging all of these attributes into timepieces that are distinctly more luxurious — and accordingly more pricey — than their Seiko counterparts. Most of these watches fall within the aptly named Sport collection, which made its official debut in 2017, the same year that Grand Seiko established itself as its own brand.  The roots of the Sport family DNA reach back significantly further — starting in 1998, with the launch of the Caliber 9S5 inside the first automatic Grand Seiko in more than 20 years, and continuing through the introduction of the first Grand Seiko model with a GMT func...

Seiko Adds Another Affordable Fired Enamel Dial to the Presage SJX Watches
Feb 10, 2025

Seiko Adds Another Affordable Fired Enamel Dial to the Presage

A tribute to Seiko’s first-ever pocket watch dating to 1895, the Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB495 boasts a white fired enamel dial with elongated Roman numerals, a style typical of pocket watches during the turn of the century. As is tradition for the Presage Craftsmanship series, the fired enamel dial is produced in the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa in the traditional way, firing the enamel glaze in a high-temperature kiln, while staying accessible with a retail price of US$1,400. Initial thoughts Seiko has released numerous re-creations of its first wristwatch, the Laurel of 1913, including the recent Presage “Porter Classic” SPB449. However, with the SPB495, the brand now goes back even further to its first pocket watch, which is marking its 130th anniversary this year. Notably, this uses the revamped Presage case that’s a little smaller and slimmer than earlier generations. The case is still a little big for a dress watch, but acceptable and also necessary due to the size of the movement. The dial is typical of 19th century pocket watches and extremely classical, even by the standards of the classical Presage series. It’s basically another option for someone who appreciates the cost-performance offering of the Presage. Staying in the usual sweet spot for pricing of the Presage Craftsmanship Series, the SPB495 is priced competitively at US$1,400. Although it’s pricier than the base-model Presage offerings, the price is more than justified by the fired enam...

The Journey of Thomas Schnelle Worn & Wound
Feb 7, 2025

The Journey of Thomas Schnelle

Thomas Schnelle’s journey began in northern Germany, where he pursued studies in toolmaking. After completing his technical college education, Schnelle found himself at a crossroads. While he contemplated studying design, a lack of confidence initially held him back. It was at this juncture that fate intervened, leading him to Chronoswiss, then owned and operated by Gerd-Rüdiger Lang in Munich.  Chronowiss and Lang could be a long story in itself since Lang had mentored and influenced a lot of the next generation of watchmakers and brands. In 1991, 21-year-old Schnelle approached Lang, and it paid off when Lang entrusted the young newcomer with a significant project – creating a series of 99 escapement models. Schnelle officially started his career in the watchmaking industry as a supplier to Chronoswiss, later becoming a freelancer for the Bavarian brand.  In 1995, Schnelle completed his watchmaking studies in Würzburg, and had the honor to be recognized as Germany’s best young watchmaker in competition. He continued to work as a freelancer for Chronoswiss until 2012, when Lang sold the company to the Ebstein family in Switzerland. Schnelle also repaired Cartier Tank watches for nearly 20 years for the Richemont group. He even took on side projects like milling air stream chambers for Infineon, and offering his technical design services.  In August 2024, I visited Schnelle at his home atelier in Munich, and his workshop was filled with photographs, technical de...

The Evergreens – The History of the IWC Ingenieur, the Technical Watch of Schaffhausen Monochrome
Feb 7, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of the IWC Ingenieur, the Technical Watch of Schaffhausen

The IWC Ingenieur collection has long been one of the pillars of the Schaffhausen-based brand’s reputation, even if the spotlight often seems to shine brighter on the emblematic Pilot series. In recent years, IWC collections like the Pilot, Portugieser, Portofino, and, to a lesser extent, the Aquatimer have steadily introduced new references, leaving the Ingenieur line seemingly in the shadows. For a […]

REVIEW:  IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 In A Beautiful Obsidian Black WatchAdvice
Feb 7, 2025

REVIEW:  IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 In A Beautiful Obsidian Black

The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 is a stunning embodiment of luxury and timeless style, drawing its roots from the heritage of the iconic Reference 325 model. In this review, I explore one of the most striking colour combinations to fully appreciate what makes this timepiece stand out. What We Love The black obsidian dial perfectly complements the 18k 5N gold case ideally sized to suit even small wrists A timeless design that references the original Prortugieser Reference 325. What We Don’t With a case thickness of 12.4mm, the watch’s water resistance of 30m seems too little. The lack of a date window may deter those who want a dress watch with this feature. Sixty seconds constant sub-counter needs to be a few shades darker to more closely match with the dial. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Portugieser line has to be my favourite from IWC Schaffhausen, with its elegant and refined aesthetics complementing the sporty side. Previously, I had the chance to wear and test out the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 42 with the sliver-plated dial, and I certainly enjoyed my time with it! Before I had the chance to do the review, however, I was already a fan of the Automatic 42, especially its bi-counter layout displaying the power reserve and constant seconds. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 on Chamath’s wrist W...

Omega Artfully Revives the 1950s Gentleman’s Wristwatch SJX Watches
Feb 6, 2025

Omega Artfully Revives the 1950s Gentleman’s Wristwatch

One year from now, the 2026 Winter Olympics will commence in Italy. To mark the milestone, Omega has created one of its most striking vintage reissues to date, the Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026. A homage to the vintage Seamaster Olympic created for the 1956 Melbourne Games, the new edition stays true to its heritage, but isn’t a one-for-one remake. Instead it’s is a blend of elements characteristic of 1950s Omega watches, including distinctive “dog leg” lugs and hexagonal crown of the Constellation, along with a white grand feu enamel dial that’s a nod to the cream enamel dial of the Seamaster Olympic. Initial thoughts The new Seamaster revives some of the best design elements of 1950s Omega wristwatches, primarily the Constellation, while incorporating the key details of the Seamaster Olympic. The mix works surprisingly well, and results in a watch that has a pleasing vintage feel. The case is a little bigger and thicker than the original, but still sized reasonably well. While it is not an imaginative creation, the new Seamaster looks good. The visual and tactile appeal will also be enhanced by the high quality of execution typical of modern Omega watches, especially on the dial and case. The Seamaster 37 mm costs US$19,300, leaving it amongst the pricier time-only watches in the Omega catalogue and well beyond the sweet spot on the price spectrum for the brand. That said, it is decent enough value considering the case in Moonshine gold, fired enamel dia...

Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Fratello
Feb 4, 2025

Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase

We’re just barely a month into 2025, and Piaget is already rolling out the big guns. The new Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase is a modern, sporty piece with movement typically reserved for a dress watch. Because of its exotic nature, this release won’t be for everyone, but it’s always fun to have a look! The […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase to read the full article.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy SJX Watches
Feb 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy

A refined addition to H. Moser & Cie.’s line of sporty dress watches, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is distinguished by a more compact 40 mm case. The look is classic Moser with the signature fumé dial adorned with an imperceptible logo in transparent print. More prominent is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock with the trademark Moser carriage of a wide “V” containing double hairsprings for superior chronometry. Initial thoughts The Streamliner remains the most recognisable model in Moser’s lineup, even as the popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches wanes. Meanwhile, the Pioneer is often overlooked by collectors, making it somewhat underrated despite its appeal. Personally, I like the Pioneer for its sporty design, even though it isn’t a traditional sports watch and instead a cross between a sports and dress watch. Departing from its predecessor’s substantial 42.8 mm case, the new model is more wearable. It leans more towards the dress watch side of the spectrum with its smaller case, but still has a 120 m water resistance (and is delivered with a green rubber strap). Priced at CHF59,900, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a value proposition in terms of tourbillons from an independent watchmaker. A steel version would be sportier and more affordable, and while that’s not on the cards yet, it is probably on the way given Moser’s track record. Burgundy gradient A standout feature is the fumé dial that’s made up of black and burgundy treat...

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 29, 2025

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review

Back in 2023, LVMH and its high watchmaking workshop La Fabrique du Temps revived the Daniel Roth brand, which had been owned by Bulgari since 2000. Roth was a towering name in independent watchmaking, having been a peer of Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe. Though the brand only lasted from 1988 to 1995, its resurrection in 2023 was only made more glorious due to the long gap. The resurrected brand debuted with the Tourbillon Souscription, which has been followed up with the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription, a faithful remake of the original from the 1990s that was released at LVMH Watch Week 2025. The “Neo-vintage” craze has only gotten more popular in recent years, with the generation of watches sandwiched between vintage and modern gaining the respect and appreciation of collectors and newcomers alike. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 reissue from 2023 was one of the most celebrated neo-vintage reissues in recent years and I’d venture to say that this Roth will join the ranks. Staying true to the original aesthetics — with contemporary concessions for things like movement development — is a recipe for success in these small-batch, high-visibility watches. Small production numbers for relative rarity are helping to keep neo-vintage from becoming overexposed, but for how long? We’ll have to wait and see on that end, but for now let’s get back to the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription. The simple, two-hand dress watch comes in that recognizable double-e...

Bulgari Introduces the Serpenti Automatic SJX Watches
Jan 24, 2025

Bulgari Introduces the Serpenti Automatic

Bulgari upgrades its signature snake-inspired watch with an all-new, in-house movement. Retaining the familiar oval case, the Serpenti Automatic debuts in two variants, the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic and Serpenti Tubogas Automatic, both equipped with the BVS100 calibre. A hint of where the LVMH watch brands are going, the BVS100 is a compact, workhorse automatic movement developed by Bulgari and slated to be produced by sister brand Zenith for other brands in the LVMH stable. Initial thoughts The historical Serpenti in enamel is arguably an iconic women’s watch, and the modern-day take on the design is bigger, bolder, and sports cleaner lines. While the Serpenti Seduttori is more subtle, the Tubogas version is especially compelling with its double-twirl bracelet that is classic Bulgari. The in-house movement is a worthy upgrade for this iconic design, although the movement is an industrial calibre rather than a high-end creation. That, however, is reflected in the relatively affordable price of the entry-level models, which start at about US$10,000. While the price is on the high side for a time-only watch with a straightforward automatic movement, it can be rationalised by the iconic design and excellent bracelet work, even on the base models. All-new movement The Serpenti Seduttori is offered in seven distinct variations - stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, rose gold two-tone, and white gold - with the option of diamond settings for the yellow gold and whit...

H. Moser CEO Ed Meylan on Innovation, Collaboration, and the Building a Brand Identity Worn & Wound
Jan 20, 2025

H. Moser CEO Ed Meylan on Innovation, Collaboration, and the Building a Brand Identity

What is one supposed to make of H. Moser & Cie.? Ask a room full of collectors to describe the brand, and there are a handful of responses you’re sure to get: exciting, modern, and fun being foremost among them. Moser, under the watchful eyes of the Meylan family, has cultivated a unique offering, one characterized by a contemporary, streamlined (pun regrettably intended) catalog and an eye toward collaboration. Whether you’re wondering at one of the brand’s latest high-complication pieces or throwing on any of their impeccable time-only sports watches, it’s hard to deny that few brands manage to balance an appetite for solid, wearable, everyday watches with elegantly implemented complications, so nimbly as Moser. Even fewer manage to accomplish this while navigating the self-serious world of watches with the same sense of humor and energy that H. Moser & Cie. has under the stewardship of the Meylan family.  I was lucky enough to spend an hour with Edouard Meylan, the CEO of H. Moser & Cie., to talk about everything Moser, and right off the bat, he acknowledged this tightrope. “I think we went further into this idea of bringing those two worlds together [the traditional and the modern]. Staying very traditional, like the movements and those kinds of things,” he explained, “but at the same time bringing a touch of more modern, more us. I couldn’t picture it back then I knew I wanted to bring that.” “I remember the first Baselworld, it was like the first...