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Moonphase Watches · Page 14

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium SJX Watches
May 30, 2023

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has revealed the newest iteration of his trademark complication, the Lunations Black Ruthenium. Equipped with his proprietary moon phase movement, the Lunations moon phase is so accurate it will accumulate a mere one-day discrepancy after 14,000 years. Limited to just ten pieces, this is a variant of a model first introduced a dozen years ago, but remains the brand’s most complex wristwatch. Initial thoughts The Lunations has all of the Sarpaneva design elements, including the moon “face”, open-worked dial (which in this case is actually the movement), laser engraved decoration as well as hand finishing, so it resembles many of the brand’s other watches. But the Lunations is actually one of the most complex watches devised by Sarpaneva. The Lunations is unusual in combining both the brand’s recognisable design with an original movement, one developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, whereas most of Sarpaneva’s other watches are powered by simpler, outsourced movements.  Constructed in a novel manner with a two-disc moon phase display that’s so large it’s almost the diameter of the movement, the calibre inside is both interesting and complex. However, a moon phase complication is usually simple – and inexpensive – in most other watches. Consequently, the Lunations feels pricey with its €39,500 price tag, particularly so considering that Sarpaneva’s other moon phase models powered by outsourced movements cost hal...

Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 4, 2023

Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection

Last year’s big release from Vacheron Constantin, the reintroduction of the legendary 222, sparked all kinds of speculation that we’d get another variant of that sports watch at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Maybe one in steel? Or with new complications? As it turns out, we didn’t get a 222 of any kind this year, but VC paid respect to its contemporary integrated bracelet sports watch, a watch whose lineage can be traced back directly to the 222, by adding a complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, a retrograde date display. It’s a first for the Overseas collection, which is itself kind of surprising. It’s one of those watches you can’t quite believe didn’t exist before now, and now that it’s here, it feels that much more well integrated with the rest of the collection.  The new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date features the same 41mm steel case profile that the brand has been using since the collection was relaunched in 2016. The Overseas, while pre-dating the hysteria for integrated bracelet sports watches by many years (the line was introduced in 1996) was part of a later group of integrated bracelet watches to really catch fire with collectors in the recent boom, following the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but ahead of watches like the newer Alpine Eagle from Chopard. It has a character that is distinct from its competitors, and is uniquely Vacheron, dominated by a complex notched bezel and less intense case geometry. The Overseas, mo...

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date Time+Tide
Apr 4, 2023

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is the first retrograde display in a sports watch for the brand The watch comes ready for adventure, equipped with a trio of strap options Launching as a boutique exclusive, the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date brings tones down the sportiness of the collection Capitalising on the runaway … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Mar 18, 2023

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it. While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy. The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation. Image – PaddleWaves An Emperor’s timekeeper Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China. In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlle...

A Week in Watches Ep. 39 – Big Moonphases, Goldbronze, & Nifty Two Time Zones Worn & Wound
Mar 5, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 39 – Big Moonphases, Goldbronze, & Nifty Two Time Zones

Welcome to episode 39 of A Week in Watches with this week’s host, Blake Buettner. This week we’re recapping news from the UK with new watches from Garrick and Farer, who each bring their unique personality and vision to some rather compelling watches in the form of the S6, which we wrote about here, and Farer’s Moonphase collection, introduced here. There’s plenty more to enjoy from the likes of Nodus, who dropped their anticipated Sector Deep this week, and from ochs und junior, who introduced a new two time zone watch in their signature style (more on this watch coming soon). Finally, we touch on the new divers from Sinn, the T50 collection, which just slipped out of last week’s episode. You can see Zach and Blake react to the new watches in this collection right here. Which of these watches would you rank as your release of the week? Let us know in the comments either here or on our YouTube channel, and while you’re there, don’t forget to subscribe. Enjoy episode 39 of A Week in Watches below and keep an eye out for next week’s news right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by Quick Release. Quick Release is a place where Worn & Wound’s partners showcase a wider variety of watches, product drops, limited deals and promotions, event announcements, and more. Check back daily, follow Quick Release on Instagram, and subscribe to our mailing list so you don’t miss a thing. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 39 – Big Moonphases, Goldbronze, & Nift...

Farer Moonphase is All Farer, and All Moon Worn & Wound
Mar 3, 2023

Farer Moonphase is All Farer, and All Moon

Farer has revealed a new collection called the Moonphase this week, and in true Farer style, have put their own unique spin on the design across a trio of references, all while acknowledging historic British figures in the process. The Moonphase collection features a big personality within a trim 38.5mm case that’s not shy on details itself, but the star of the show is undoubtedly the enormous moon depicted within the aperture that dominates the top half of the dial. Each example features a slightly different moon, inspired by the broad range of colors it can adopt depending on the conditions. The Farer Moonphase makes a big impression at a glance thanks to the larger moonphase aperture situated above the hand stack, but below and within the hour markers. It’s a similar layout to the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moonphase, among others, however Farer is bringing the design to a far more accessible and, dare we say, fun execution with their Moonphase. Each phase the moon goes through is indexed along the top arc of the aperture, providing a welcome practical nod to the romantic complication. The moon itself differs between each of the watches, going from light pink in the Burbidge, to warm yellow in the Halley, and finally a neutral eggshell in the Eddington. The depictions reference the different hues the moon takes to our eyes, viewing it through different atmospheric conditions and angles. The moons themselves are hand-painted in Geneva using grade OL X1 Super-LumiNova. Fa...

Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary and their Signature Complication with a New Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture Worn & Wound
Feb 16, 2023

Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary and their Signature Complication with a New Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture

It’s hard to believe, but Frederique Constant celebrates their 35th anniversary this year. This is a brand that’s truly part of the old guard when it comes to the contemporary, affordable watch scene. Making the “nice Swiss watch” accessible to the masses was a big part of why the brand was founded, and over the course of their history the entire watch industry has changed multiple times over, currently finding itself in a healthy spot where more and better watches are finding their way onto the wrists of enthusiasts at a pace that couldn’t have have been imagined three decades ago. The line between “luxury” and “affordable” continues to shift, and there’s no doubt that Frederique Constant has played a role in those changes.  Specifically, Frederique Constant has broken new ground when it comes to making complicated watchmaking affordable. We all know about their excellent perpetual calendar, which they are still able to sell for a little less than $10,000 several years after its debut. But they also dabble in other historically significant and tech forward complications. Over the years we’ve seen everything from flyback chronographs to moon phases equipped watches, and of course their Slimline Monolithic with an ultra high frequency oscillator. But it could be argued that their signature complication, the one that the brand has leaned into the hardest and gained the most acclaim for, is the worldtimer. So it makes sense that for Frederique Constant...

The Independedit: Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1 Time+Tide
Jan 21, 2023

The Independedit: Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1

The Glashütte-trained watchmaker presents his first in-house complication A minimalist, modern take on a moonphase complication Heavily modified and extensively hand-decorated Unitas movement  Felipe Pikullik launched his eponymous brand in 2017, upon completion of his studies in Germany’s cradle of watchmaking – Glashütte. In that short period, Mr Pikullik has already introduced four different collections, … ContinuedThe post The Independedit: Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Rijke Returns to Miffy Collaboration One Year Later with New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Jan 16, 2023

De Rijke Returns to Miffy Collaboration One Year Later with New Dial Colors

One year ago we showed you the delightful De Rijke Miffy Moonphase, a playful take on De Rijke’s distinctive design language honoring the iconic Dutch cartoon character created by Dick Bruna, Miffy. We remarked then about the watch’s universal appeal beyond the character thanks to the exquisite execution of the character etched into a brass plate alongside the moonphase display. This year, De Rijke returns to the concept with three new dial colors that once again breathe new life into Bruna’s uniquely Dutch creation.  The Miffy character has been incorporated into the design of the moonphase disc rotating underneath the dial, which is visible through an oversized aperture that dominates the top half of the dial. The character, which is a bunny, appears within the moon itself, with a slew of stars trailing. The entire design has been laser etched out of brass, polished and black rhodium plated. The recesses are then filled with different colors of lume, creating not only a vibrant illustration, but also an impressive sight in the dark. We’ve talked about our feelings on cartoon characters within the confines of watches before in this editorial, and sadly I neglected to mention the original De Rijke x Miffy as an example that works. According to Laurens de Rijke, the brand’s founder, it’s a reminder that we needn’t always take ourselves too seriously, explaining: “ For me though, it makes a lot of sense, the world of watches is one that is often very serious...

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs Time+Tide
Dec 9, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs

This trio of novelties from the Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase collection encompasses the brand’s incredible attention to detail and gem-setting savoir-faire. The first is a more simple, possibly even everyday, piece with a brand new bracelet, touted to fit like a second skin. The other two share a case and dial covered in diamonds, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Funder Måne delivers a modular moonphase collection in a single watch Time+Tide
Dec 5, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Funder Måne delivers a modular moonphase collection in a single watch

What is great about the independent watch market is that there is more room to do things differently. By offering more value for less money or by making unique watches. Or by making both things available at the same time. And it seems that some of the best watches come from single-owner brands that are backed by the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Funder Måne delivers a modular moonphase collection in a single watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Nov 30, 2022

Hands On: IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar

IWC has a suite of instantly recognisable models synonymous with the brand, namely the Pilot’s Watches and of course, the Portugieser. But one collection does get as much recognition as its peers, despite being almost 40 years old. Named after the famous seaside city in Italy, the Portofino was introduced in 1984 (though the inaugural model didn’t yet have the Portofino name at the time) as an oversized pocket watch-style wristwatch, something of a clarion call to persist with mechanical watchmaking after the Quartz Crisis. Now the brand has revived one of the classics from the line with the Portofino Perpetual Calendar. At 40 mm in diameter, it’s the most compact of IWC’s perpetual calendars and is equipped with an in-house movement from the 82000 family. Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar is a sought-after complication for its utility but also its aesthetics, especially when it includes a moon phase, which adds a touch of romanticism to the design. IWC’s latest take on the complication is straightforward, practical, and priced reasonably enough. In fact, it’s essentially a visually-simplified version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, which uses the same movement but inside a larger case. While not revolutionary in technical terms, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is a solid performer with a concise design. It retains all the features that made the 1990s original appealing but adds a few contemporary touches in both design and the in-house base m...

Comments 1

  1. Tomek
    Moonphase is nice, but also impractical. You look at dial, not moon in sky. Still, classical Patek and Lange pieces have soul that modern watches sometimes miss.

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