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Moonphase Watches · Page 17

INTRODUCING: All white now – the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase lightens up Time+Tide
Dec 2, 2020

INTRODUCING: All white now – the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase lightens up

When the time comes to add complications to your roster of wrist wear, Baume & Mercier is a great brand to turn to. Not only are their watches competitively priced, but they are also comparably well-built when considered alongside many of their more expensive peers. In this way, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: All white now – the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase lightens up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Let’s be real, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase is stupendously good-looking Time+Tide
Nov 30, 2020

HANDS-ON: Let’s be real, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase is stupendously good-looking

Everyone loves good value. It’s always nice to walk away from a purchase with the smug feeling that you got a lot more than what you paid for. One brand that consistently provides those good vibes is Baume & Mercier. They really know how to walk the fine line between luxury and accessibility and it … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Let’s be real, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase is stupendously good-looking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon SJX Watches
Nov 20, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon

Combining an unusual variety of complications that nevertheless go well aesthetically, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is the latest tourbillon wristwatch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has made something of a speciality in iterating its tourbillon movements with various additional complications. Powered by the newly-developed cal. 983, the new watch features a moon phase, pointer date, and tourbillon regulator. And its case is made of Le Grand rose gold, a fade-resistant gold alloy unveiled only earlier in the year. Initial thoughts The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is a handsome watch executed in the typical Jaeger-LeCoultre style. The design is classical, with a handful of details that refine the look, including the applied hour markers and metal-deposition moon phase scale. And the movement is decorated well, though largely by mechanical methods, and the result is visually appealing. But it is a bit large at 41.5 mm in diameter, and also thick at 12.1 mm high – giving it dimensions similar to a sports chronograph. The cal. 983 in the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon And the retail price of US$88,500 is high. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s strength is haute horlogerie in the middle of the price segment – though it’s been drifting upwards – alongside brands like Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. But both those brands recently launched tourbillons of comparable quality – the Blast and Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon respectively – that cost less. Master To...

EDITOR’S PICK: Great value complications – the Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2020

EDITOR’S PICK: Great value complications – the Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase

Editor’s note: With watch collecting skewing towards sports models, there is definitely room for more classic and complicated watches in our collections. Now I know what you’re thinking: more complicated means more cost. This, however, is not necessarily the case. In fact, we recently covered a watch that fits the bill. When Watches & Wonders … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Great value complications – the Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bovet Récital 27: The Trinity Of Time Quill & Pad
Oct 10, 2020

Bovet Récital 27: The Trinity Of Time

The Bovet Récital 27 is built around a triple time zone display that one might imagine could become busy, but Bovet is rather skilled at combining complications in a way that doesn’t seem forced in any respect. But for Joshua Munchow, the most dramatic element on this dial is the double moon phase display, which shows the current moon phase in both the southern and northern hemispheres. And there is one more element he loves here, can you guess which?

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is an alarmingly different type of Polaris Time+Tide
Oct 1, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is an alarmingly different type of Polaris

Although it’s never really taken off as an uber-popular complication like a chronograph or moonphase, the alarm function of JLC’s Memovox watches has, since they were first unveiled in 1968, been exceedingly practical. But it’s a complication that’s usually been found in the watchmaker’s daintier, and perhaps less practical, dress watches. This has meant that … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is an alarmingly different type of Polaris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Ladies Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sprinkling Of Jewels, A Mismatched Date, And The Ever-Raging Debate On Quartz Quill & Pad
Sep 29, 2020

Our Predictions In The Ladies Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sprinkling Of Jewels, A Mismatched Date, And The Ever-Raging Debate On Quartz

The GPHG foundation describes the Ladies category for watches entered as “comprising only the following indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, and/or classic moon phase. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of eight carats’ worth of gemstones.” While our panelists aren't quite unanimous, we do have a clear favorite as a winner here. Read on to find out why.

S.U.F. Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Aug 25, 2020

S.U.F. Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin

A comic strip populated by quirky characters, Moomin is the creation of the late Finnish artist Tove Jansson. The long-running comic marks its 75th anniversary in 2020, and is marking the occasion with a limited edition wristwatch created by Finnish watchmaker S.U.F Helsinki, the more affordable brand started by independent watchmaker Stephan Sarpaneva, who is best known for his moon phase watches. The Sarpaneva x Moomin watch features a skeletonised dial depicting a central character from the comic, Moomintroll, amidst a pastoral landscape. While the dial is monochromatic during the day, it dazzles up at night as a result of the Technicolour Super-Luminova that’s been painted by hand. Initial thoughts The glow-in-the-dark dial is whimsical and striking, even for someone unfamiliar with the comic. And it is presented in an appealing pacakge. S.U.F typically offers excellent case quality, and here the whole has been boosted by the complex open working of the dial, a feature that is typically found on pricier Sarpaneva watches. And inside is a Soprod A10, a tried-and-tested movement from a widely-known maker, which means servicing will be easy. For €5,000, or about US$5,900, the Moomin wristwatch is a compelling, fun purchase, especially since it is a small run of just 75 watches. Though it costs double the base-model S.U.F watch with the same case and movement, the hand-painted “lume” dial is a surprisingly intricate bit of work for a relatively affordable watch. D...

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition SJX Watches
Jul 17, 2020

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition

Contemporary yet traditional, the Pano collection has been a staple of Glashütte Original’s offerings. The latest Pano wristwatch is a departure from the line’s typically clean styling – the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition. Limited to 25 watches with a platinum case, the new watch is a variant the standard tourbillon model, dressed up with impeccable engraving on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts With hand-engraved filigree decoration across the dial (and movement, this is easily one of the most attractive in the Pano collection, more so than the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. Similar to the decoration usually found only on the balance cock of Glashütte Original movements, the engraving is made up of pronounced lines and a complex pattern, giving the watch a markedly different character from the standard model. The hand engraving was executed in Glashütte Original’s dial factory in Pforzheim And the look is further enhanced by the metallic blue of panorama date, hands, indices and moon phase, a blue-on-silver livery that provides a sharp and elegant contrast. While the look is elegantly ornate, it’s a big watch, clocking in at 40 mm wide and 13.10 mm tall, probably a bit too big for a watch of this style. The case size suits contemporary tastes, but something thinner and perhaps 38 mm in diameter would work better with the design. German aesthetic Underneath the decoration, the watch is identical to the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. It retains the a...

Bovet Introduces the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two SJX Watches
Jul 10, 2020

Bovet Introduces the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two

Helmed by Pascal Raffy, Bovet is a small and independent brand that excels in timepieces that are ornate, original and eccentric – and often highly complicated. The modern-day philosophy of the brand echoes the brand’s origins in the 19th century when it was a leading purveyor of pocket watches to the Chinese market. This year, Bovet furthers its distinctive expression of watchmaking with the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two. Features an imposing but transparent sapphire case with a sloped, “writing desk” profile, the watch is equipped with a host of complications, from a flying tourbillon to a three-dimensional moon phase. And despite the name, Brainstorm Chapter Two is not just a sequel to the Brainstorm Chapter One, but is more like a newly-conceived watch. Initial thoughts Immediately eye-catching, the sapphire case has a very unconventional inclined shape. Introduced in 2016, the form takes after the traditional sloped-top writing desk and is now a signature Bovet design. While transparent sapphire cases are not new – they are in fact commonplace today with watches with several launched this year, including the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire and the Chanel J12 X-Ray – the Bovet case is unusual in form. It is not entirely sapphire, however, and instead made up of a titanium frame of the case back and lugs, with the sapphire case middle and front mounted on the frame. The titanium case back and its pins that secure the sapphire case middle Though fashi...

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Jul 3, 2020

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Watch auction season is in full swing, two months later than its usual May timing. Phillips will be staging The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X on July 10, with 269 lots slated to go under the hammer. The catalogue includes a wide-ranging line-up of big-ticket complications, as well as some interesting examples of independent watchmaking. Below we take a look at a couple of highlights from the complications category, and we’ll look at some of the independents next week. You’ll find the full auction catalogue here. For a more personal take on the highlights: myself and Phillips’ head of watches, Thomas Perazzi, will be hosting a webinar to discuss the highlights from the sale on July 6 at 4:00 pm GMT+8. Registration is required to attend, and you can do it here. Lot 816 – A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite” in honey gold This A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite” was part of the 165th Anniversary Homage to F.A. Lange three-piece set made in 2010 to commemorate the 165 years since the birth of the company’s namesake founder. Made up of the Tourbograph, Lange 1 Tourbillon, and 1815 Moon Phase, the set was characterised by honey gold cases and guilloche dials. The most complicated Lange wristwatch aside from the monumentally unwearable Grand Complication, the Tourbograph incorporates a tourbillon, rattrapante chronograph, and fusée-and-chain transmission. It was first launched in 2005 as a limited edition of 50 with a platinum case, with th...

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase Titanium Hands on Review WatchAdvice
Jun 24, 2020

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase Titanium Hands on Review

Introduction Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang collection has always piqued my interest, and when a 42mm variant was released back in 2016 – I paid attention. Primarily because I saw the size as more accessible, and the design more refined and in proportion. In fact, back then I wrote about this exact model —  The Hublot Spirit Big Bang Moonphase Titanium — for another publication. Surprisingly though – it took a good four years before I actually went hands-on for proper inspection.  After a couple of weeks on loan, I’m happy to report back on what it’s like to wear the Spirit of Big Bang around town. First Impressions As far as first impressions go, the Spirit of Big Bang is bold, brawny and makes quite the splash. Although fairly monochromatic in design, the SOBB feels significant, carrying an aura of cool on wrist. The size isn’t outrageous, it’s comfortable to wear, and from a distance, the Skeleton dial seamlessly blends into the titanium case. Although watch enthusiasts will instantly recognise the tonneau case shape, the Spirit of Big Bang maintained an ‘under-the-radar’ feel to it – which I found appealing. On The Wrist On the wrist, the Hublot SOBB sits snugly thanks to the curve on the underside of the tonneau case, which balances its height. Coming in at a reasonable 42mm, the case has a balanced blend of polish and satin finishing. Initially, I found the height took some getting used to, being a little thicker than my usual. The Spirit Of Bi...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
May 13, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Launched in 2006, Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) means a watch from the standard collection that’s been dosed with platinum to create a limited edition. Vacheron Constantin applies the CEP treatment to a model every one or two years, which means even after 14 years, there’s only been a dozen or so CEP editions. The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Collection Excellence Platine is the latest to join the exclusive club. As is tradition, platinum is employed for nearly every element of the watch: the case, crown, dial, buckle, and the tiny moon phase disc. Even the stitching in the blue alligator strap is made of thread woven from silk and platinum wire. Initial thoughts Ironically, although the CEP edition is the most expensive version of the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date – ordinarily available only with a gold case – it is the most restrained. The new watch has a strongly monochromatic yet harmonious appearance. That, combined with the liberal use of platinum, make it the most contemporary of the variants, while retaining the same traditional and endearing design. In the typical style of CEP, the watch is simple in style and colour, but has details that make it interesting. Even though almost all the external components of the watch are made of the same material, different surface treatments create texture and depth, giving it visual appeal. For example, the smooth, sandblasted surface of the dial and the more granular moon phase disc bearing a m...

Comments 1

  1. Tomek
    Moonphase is nice, but also impractical. You look at dial, not moon in sky. Still, classical Patek and Lange pieces have soul that modern watches sometimes miss.

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