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Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 19

Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS And Diver X Skeleton OPS Fratello
Jun 20, 2024

Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS And Diver X Skeleton OPS

Ulysse Nardin would not be the first brand I’d turn to when considering modern dive watches. But I must admit that the Diver Net OPS and the Diver X Skeleton OPS in this review immediately stood out when I saw the pictures online. Both watches feature a military-inspired camouflage look that I quite like, so […] Visit Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS And Diver X Skeleton OPS to read the full article.

Introducing - The Code 41 UNIFY Calls For Tolerance, Equality and Diversity. Monochrome
Jun 19, 2024

Introducing - The Code 41 UNIFY Calls For Tolerance, Equality and Diversity.

Since founding Code41 in 2016, Lausanne-based designer Claudio D’Amore has set his brand apart through transparency, community engagement, and fair pricing. From a product perspective, Code41 has developed a unique portfolio of watches with distinct aesthetics, sporty vibes, and often featuring openworked dials. The brand’s latest collection, UNIFY, is somewhat more approachable and consensual. However, […]

The Latest Collaboration Between TAG Heuer and Porsche Celebrates the German Automaker’s History in Endurance Racing Worn & Wound
Jun 17, 2024

The Latest Collaboration Between TAG Heuer and Porsche Celebrates the German Automaker’s History in Endurance Racing

TAG Heuer has unveiled their latest Carrera, another collaboration with Porsche, officially dubbed the Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963. As watch enthusiasts know, there’s a range of how “Porschey” these collaborations get. Sometimes they simply have the German automaker’s badge slapped onto the watch somewhere, and sometimes the connection is very inside baseball, like when TAG made a new chronograph movement that accelerated at the same rate as a classic 911. This new watch is somewhere in the middle, with some clever visual winks to the car that inspired it, but nothing new under the hood.  The new watch takes its specific inspiration from Porsche’s success in endurance racing. The Porsche 963, developed under Le Mans Daytona Hybrid regulations, is the current pinnacle of Porsche’s expertise in endurance, a tradition that goes back decades. This is an aggressive take on the Carrera, which is a watch that we’ve seen wear many different capes in recent years. It’s a platform that is perhaps most at home as a traditional, elegant, gentleman’s racing chronograph, but can flex into something far more contemporary with relative ease.  The 44mm case is stainless steel and coated in black PVD, and has been accented with a carbon fiber bezel with a tachymetric scale. Naturally we get a complex, skeletonized dial (nothing says “modern and contemporary” like skeletonization, I guess) as well as plenty of lume. The lume is actually what most closely links t...

Roundup: The Panels of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Worn & Wound
Jun 10, 2024

Roundup: The Panels of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

One of the highlights of the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco last month was the plethora of amazing programming that took place throughout all three days of the event. The Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason had an ideal room dedicated to creating the kind of panel content that we’re fond of making here at Worn & Wound. Fortunately, we had a slew of incredible industry professionals on site to glean some great insights! Here’s a roundup of panels from the big show. Time on Screen: Dunkirk with William Wood In celebration of the release of their most ambitious watch to date, William Wood CEO Jonny Garrett joined Zach Kazan and Kyle Snarr on stage at the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair to talk about Nolan’s film and share the story of the Dunkirk Watch. The new limited edition watch was made in partnership with and in tribute to the Massey Shaw, a London Fire Brigade Fire Boat that played an important role in evacuating British forces from Dunkirk Beach in the early stages of World War II. Introducing the Christopher Ward Twelve X Zach Kazan sits down with Mike France, CEO of Christopher Ward, to chat about one of the absolute highlight watches of the show: The Twelve X. For the 10th anniversary of the SH21, new for 2024, Christopher Ward has debuted the Twelve X. Not their first skeletonized watch, they claim to have removed even more material than ever before, exposing parts of the movement that have previously been hidden. The Twelve X will be an open series watch, de...

New: Ulysse Nardin updates their OPS capsule collection Deployant
Jun 1, 2024

New: Ulysse Nardin updates their OPS capsule collection

The Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS are the latest additions to the brand's Diver collection, bringing a fresh and utilitarian OPS colorway to these performance-oriented timepieces. The Diver NET OPS is notable for its sustainable construction, featuring a case made from 95% recycled stainless steel and a unique composite material comprising upcycled fishing nets and carbon fibers, offering a robust yet environmentally conscious design. Its 44mm case is complemented by a unidirectional timing bezel crafted from Carbonium, a material known for its strength and lightweight properties derived from the aerospace industry. The Diver X Skeleton OPS, on the other hand, showcases a premium approach with its DLC-coated titanium case and intricate skeletonized design, providing a glimpse into the watch's mechanical intricacies. Both models maintain the brand's commitment to precision and durability, with water resistance suitable for professional diving and a design that's both modern and tactical.

First Look - Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm Monochrome
May 31, 2024

First Look - Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm

Openworked or skeletonised watches are treats for the more mechanical-minded admirers of watchmaking, and the more complex the movement, the better. In 2016, Audemars Piguet increased the viewing pleasure two-fold when it unveiled its Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked ref. 15407. As its name indicates, the movement was equipped with two balance wheels, one […]

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal SJX Watches
May 30, 2024

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal

Described by the brand as the “climactic conclusion” of the line of ultra-light watches made for the tennis champion, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal weighs just 11.5 g without its strap – or about two sheets of A4 printer paper. Like many of Richard Mille’s watches, the RM 27-05 is cased in carbon composite, specifically Carbon TPT B.4. More compact than the brand’s typical watches, the tonneau-shaped case is a compact 37.25mm by 7.2 mm. And according to Richard Mille, it is shock resistant to about 14,000 g. Initial thoughts Richard Mille was the first to make ultra-light a thing in watches with the RM009 ALUSiC that was introduced almost 20 years ago. The brand took the concept to the extreme with the RM 27 that debuted in 2010. Weighing just 13 g without the strap, it was conceived for Rafael Nadal to wear while playing tennis. The watches have gotten even lighter since then, and the RM 27-05 is the final chapter in the series. Weighing essentially nothing at 11.5 g without the strap, it is as lightweight as it gets for a mechanical watch of this type. Besides being the most extreme example of Richard Mille’s ultra-light philosophy, the RM 27-05 is also quintessential Richard Mille in terms of style. The notched outline and vents on the case, and the hyper-mechanical appearance of the skeleton movement, are very much typical of the brand’s current design ethos. In short the watch is very much Richard Mille. That also holds true for the price, ...

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Skeletonized Monaco Worn & Wound
May 28, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Skeletonized Monaco

Once again, TAG Heuer has released a new Monaco chronograph to celebrate the running of the Monaco Grand Prix, which took place over the weekend in, you guessed it, Monaco. While it’s surely a bit on-the-nose to unveil a new chronograph that is named after the race itself on race weekend, we’ll forgive TAG here given the simple fact that the Monaco Grand Prix’s place in our culture. If it’s not one of the most watched races in the world, it’s certainly one of the most recognizable and well known. The word “Monaco” to many will immediately conjure images of the race, unless it’s heard by a watch collector, in which case iconic square cased chrono is likely to be front of mind. In any event, not introducing a new Monaco on race weekend would likely amount to a tactical error on TAG Heuer’s part, given the intense focus on F1 over the weekend.  The new watch is effectively a new variant of the watch released last year, which introduced skeleton dials to the Monaco collection with brightly colored accents and lightweight titanium cases. Here we have a DLC coated titanium case measuring 39mm across and 15.2mm tall, with a skeletonized dial featuring dark blue and bright yellow accents. Skeleton dials can, of course, sometimes be a bit difficult to read, but time-telling on the skeletonized Monaco is fairly straightforward with sharp white minute markers at the perimeter of the blue minute ring, and oversized lume filled hour markers set against the Caliber 02...

Introducing: The Stealthy Allure Of The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ.5 Label Noir Limited Edition Fratello
May 27, 2024

Introducing: The Stealthy Allure Of The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ.5 Label Noir Limited Edition

If you haven’t heard that term before, that makes two of us, but trust me; I’ll explain. The CHPTR_Δ.5 (pronounced “Chapter Delta point five” in case you were stumbling) is the lovechild of BA111OD and Label Noir, designed by Thomas Baillod. It is a triangularly different, semi-open-worked creation with a dark vibe. This comes in […] Visit Introducing: The Stealthy Allure Of The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ.5 Label Noir Limited Edition to read the full article.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Military-Inspired Diver OPS SJX Watches
May 27, 2024

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Military-Inspired Diver OPS

Ulysse Nardin just dropped the Diver Net OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS, a pair of military-inspired sports watches made from sustainable materials. Dressed in olive drab and black, the two watches utilise recycled steel and carbon composites, and even nylon straps made from fishing nets. Though the emphasis on sustainability and styling are clearly modern, the basis of the watches is historical: the design is modelled on the shipborne marine chronometers Ulysse Nardin was once famous for. The Diver X Skeleton OPS with its open dial Initial Thoughts Ulysse Nardin opted for more restrained aesthetics for the new Diver Duo, instead of the brighter colours found on past models. The Diver Net OPS in particular has a low-key, functional look. Notably, the trademark “X” motif on its dial – which you either love or hate – is not particularly obvious. I find the “X” too bold on some other designs, but here it works better with the military-esque look of the dial. However, both the materials and movements found inside the two watches reflect the brand’s focus on advanced, industrial watchmaking. The Diver Net OPS, for example, is an entry-level model but still equipped with an in-house movement with a silicon hairspring and free-sprung balance, along with a diamond-coated escapement. The Diver Net OPS And the use of recycled materials is also interesting. The carbon composite parts of the case are offcuts from the aircraft manufacturing, which according to the brand red...

Hot Take: The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton In Black DLC Titanium Fratello
May 26, 2024

Hot Take: The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton In Black DLC Titanium

If you read this article shortly after publication, you are probably missing the Monaco Grand Prix. Or you are multi-tasking, which I would not recommend; eyes on the road! Either way, TAG Heuer is releasing a new version of its Monaco Chronograph in celebration of the Monaco race. Join me for a first look at […] Visit Hot Take: The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton In Black DLC Titanium to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco “Dark Blue” SJX Watches
May 24, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco “Dark Blue”

In anticipation of the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Monaco Chronograph “Dark Blue”, a variant of last year’s Skeleton Dial that retains the open-worked dial that’s now in a restrained blue with vibrant yellow accents, match with a case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts The new Monaco makes an immediate impression with its striking colours and open-worked design. It’s essentially a darker version of last year’s model (that was almost electric blue), with the muted blue a good compliment for yellow accents on the counters, central and hands, while also matching the all-black case. Aside from the aesthetic refinements, this is fundamentally a Monaco Skeleton Dial, with the same calibre and dimensions. Appropriately, it is priced the same as last year’s equivalent Skeleton Dial model. However, the Skeleton Dial is not quite a value proposition as it’s priced quite a bit higher than the Monaco “Dark Lord” that has the same movement. Muted colours The latest Monaco is making its debut just in time for the Monaco Grand Prix that begins this weekend. It’s essentially a chromatic variation of Skeleton Dial “Turquoise”, with the same open-worked dial showcasing the mechanics. The primary distinction is the lattice-like dial that is now in a dark, navy blue. It’s matched with yellow lacquered hands for the chronograph, which are echoed by yellow markings on the oscillating weight and column wheel visib...

Tissot Introduces an Affordable Skeleton Automatic SJX Watches
May 22, 2024

Tissot Introduces an Affordable Skeleton Automatic

Tissot added to the Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette collection of accessibly-priced skeleton watches. Sharing the same exact case design as last year’s updated model, the trio of new additions have open-worked dials that display the inner workings of the Powermatic 80 calibre. Both the styling and movement are no-frills, and matched with a price below US$1,000, making them a good option for the beginner enthusiast. Initial thoughts Tissot is known for affordable Swiss-made watches and the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is exactly that. The novelty of the watch lies in the open dial that reveals the skeleton movement. Although the calibre isn’t fancily executed, it is cleanly finished and provides visual detail that sets this apart from most similarly priced watches. The design is also enhanced by the fact that it doesn’t have a date, which gives the dial a clean, symmetrical appearance. Priced between US$895 and US$975, the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is a good value proposition, especially since skeleton watches are not common in this price segment. Entry-level skeleton While the sporty PRX collection is now its most high profile product, the brand overhauled the Chemin des Tourelles line last year. Named after the street where the Tissot headquarters are located, Chemin des Tourelles is made up of dress watches, with the skeleton model being the top-of-the-line. The Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton has a case that’s 39 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm thick, with a domed ...

Comments 5

  1. Karam
    The Greubel Forsey architecture mentioned here is genuinely impressive from a chronometry standpoint. Those openworked layouts don't come cheap in terms of manufacturing tolerances. Curious if the article touched on how skeleton designs affect COSC certification or if there's any measurable deviation penalty versus solid movement cases.
  2. Anonymous
    Skeleton watches always feel a bit theatrical to me, like you're paying extra just to see the gears spinning. That said, there's something genuinely beautiful about the hand-pierced pocket watches from the 18th century mentioned here. Modern ones feel like they're trying too hard.
  3. WatchHusk
    The AP Royal Oak Skeleton and Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon get all the press, but honestly if you want to appreciate openworked movements without the six-figure price tag, look at what the microbrands are doing. Brands like Nezumi Studios and Raven are exploring skeleton concepts with real craftsmanship and way more soul per dollar spent.
  4. Reece
    been looking at skeleton watches and wondering about the depreciation angle. AP Royal Oak holds value pretty well historically, but does the skeleton variant retain differently than the standard model? cost of ownership over 5 years must be brutal if you're paying sport watch prices for something you mainly wear on weekends.
  5. Ravi
    Is a skeleton watch actually worth it as a first watch versus something like a standard Submariner or Speedmaster. I love the look but some of the collector stuff seems way out of budget. Should I be patient and save or is there a good entry point.

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