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Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 21

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case Worn & Wound
Apr 10, 2024

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case

Today, Hublot has announced not one, but six new versions of the Big Bang Integrated Time Only, and here’s the kicker - this time they’re 38mm. When the first Hublot watch was launched by Carlo Crocco all the way back in 1980, it stood out. Totally different from anything else on the market, it supposedly took Crocco and his team at MDM Watches three years to develop the rubber strap for the first Hublot. The juxtaposition of a high-end gold case and an integrated rubber strap defined that first watch and “The Art of Fusion” would become the signature of a brand defined by experimentation. It was in that spirit that Hublot released the first Big Bang on a bracelet in 2020 (just a few weeks before the pandemic, as it turned out). I remember the prevailing sentiment at the time being slight surprise that a braceleted Big Bang didn’t already exist and a bemused “okay” before everyone got very distracted by the world shutting down. That first 42mm Big Bang Integral Chronograph was followed up by a 40mm Big Bang Integral Time Only two years later. Those first two Integral models featured skeletonized sapphire dials and sporty red and black highlights. Like many large Hublot releases, they each felt decidedly masculine. Today’s new Big Bang Integrated Time Only releases are much more sedate, swapping sapphire skeleton dials for solid ones finished in somewhat more traditional polished blacks or sunray blues. With their more neutral designs and smaller case siz...

Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT Fratello
Apr 10, 2024

Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is one of my favorite releases of the past few years. The watch came out last year at Watches and Wonders and proved to be one of the show’s highlights. It’s spectacular salmon/copper dial shows the incredible potential of the watch. Not only is the color spectacular, but adding […] Visit Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT to read the full article.

First Look - The Highly Anticipated Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph (incl. Video) Monochrome
Apr 9, 2024

First Look - The Highly Anticipated Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph (incl. Video)

Introduced in 2021, the Defy Skyline is an important sub-collection within Zenith’s contemporary Defy series. Since its inception, the collection has flourished to encompass over 20 references spanning time and date, skeleton, and tourbillon-regulated models. These come in various sizes and are adorned with various colours, materials, and even precious stones. Despite its rich offerings, […]

Roger Dubuis Introduces the “Orbis in Machina” Central Tourbillon SJX Watches
Apr 9, 2024

Roger Dubuis Introduces the “Orbis in Machina” Central Tourbillon

No stranger to extravagant timepieces, Roger Dubuis’ brand of “Hyper Horology” is apparent in its bold design language and intricate, showy movements. For Watches & Wonders 2024 the manufacture presents the Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina Central Monotourbillon, a central tourbillon with an expectedly classical movement. Initial thoughts The way Roger Dubuis carries itself now is very different from the brand’s early, classically styled pieces. The current house style is centred on mechanical aesthetics, angular shapes, and large cases with proprietary triple lugs. The Orbis in Machina sticks to that familiar style, although the front appears more subdued and technical than the average Roger Dubuis complication. Despite the layered and open-worked dial, the technicality of the piece is mostly concealed. Orbis in Machina still carries a few embellishments, resulting in a design that is clearly opulent in a hyper-mechanical sort of way. Seemingly sitting at the top of a stack of moving parts on the dial, the tourbillon regulator serves as the centrepiece. Paradoxically, the more restrained composition on the outside contrasts with the interesting and sophisticated mechanics within. The movement fills up the large case, creating a sense of visual density. This is more evident on the back, which tells a whole different story compared to the front. The display back reveals an intricate and exquisitely finished movement. Stylistically, the RD115 movement is also an unusual...

Zenith Introduces a Long Awaited Chronograph to the Defy Skyline Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Introduces a Long Awaited Chronograph to the Defy Skyline Collection

Zenith returns to the Defy collection this year at Watches & Wonders with the introduction of a Defy Skyline Chronograph. This is a version of the next-gen Defy that Zenith fans have been anticipating since the collection’s debut, given the long line of chronographs that have populated Defy collections past and present. The new Defy Skyline Chronograph follows iterations of the Skyline that have played with materials and skeletonization, so it seems possible (even likely) that eventually the chronograph will get similar treatment. For now, we have a trio of references in stainless steel that feel like a logical extension of the Defy Skyline series.  The 42mm case is effectively unchanged from previous skylines, and is Zenith’s contemporary take on the original 8-sided Defy case first seen in the late 1960s. The Defy, as opposed to the Chronomaster and Pilot lines, has always been Zenith’s playground for the avant-garde and the unusual, and the highly sculptural case design of this watch, that traces a lineage back to the original, underscores the very nature of what the Defy is.  Dial options at launch include metallic black, blue, and silver, and feature the signature star pattern that has been present in the Skyline from the beginning. The subdials are oversized and overlap just slightly (perhaps not as much as on a Chronomaster) and are color matched to the main dial, but do not feature the Skyline stars. As with most other watches running on El Primero movement...

H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Time+Tide
Apr 8, 2024

H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

The second skeleton model from the independent watchmaker, it uses the same codes but in a new look. Highly complex with a double hairspring tourbillon at 6 o’clock. A great, yet pricey addition to the skeletonised integrated sports watch segment, at $86,900. The Streamliner has become an incredibly popular offering from independent watchmaker H. Moser … ContinuedThe post H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise Fratello
Apr 7, 2024

Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise

It may seem like an odd question, and knowing Elshan Tang’s brand progression personally, I will not be asking it, but you might. If you’re used to his tough budget-priced divers, this new Spearfish is a leap in price and style. Is the open-worked Swiss taste worth it? I love seeing small brands climb the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise to read the full article.

S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver SJX Watches
Apr 3, 2024

S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver

A bestselling franchise launched two years ago, S.U.F. Helsinki’s latest Moomin edition is the Moomin Diver. Based on the brand’s Vetehinen diver, the Moomin diver features an illustration from Moomin and the Comet that depicts the titular character diving. As with past Moomin editions, the diver features a laser-engraved and hand finished dial with lots of Super-Luminova. Initial thoughts The Moomin watches by S.U.F., the affordable sub-brand of Sarpaneva, are fun value propositions that offer a good quality of dial and case work for the price. This is typical of S.U.F. as well as Sarpaneva in their respective price segments. Priced similarly to the very first model at €5,550, the latest edition continues that while introducing a new dial motif. This is a timely change since the original dial design had already been repeated several times, including on the pricier, full-fledged Sarpaneva version. While the latest edition doesn’t have the same level of detail on the dial – it’s mostly engraved as opposed to being substantially open worked – it brings a new look with the dive watch aesthetic. Though the Moomin editions have been repeated several times, perhaps too often, this is an appealing new launch considering the price-performance ratio and relatively small edition size of 52 watches across two dial types. Diving-themed diver’s watch The new diver features a steel dial that reproduces a drawing from Moomin and the Comet, one of the many Moomin books pen...

Introducing - The New Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT Monochrome
Mar 27, 2024

Introducing - The New Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT

In 2021, Bianchet, an independent, family-owned and family-operated brand, unveiled its inaugural creation, the B1.618 Tourbillon Openworked. This limited edition timepiece established the foundation for Bianchet’s design language and ethos. Building upon this foundation, the brand introduced subsequent releases, including the B1.618 Grande Date and, for this year, the B1.618 Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT. True […]

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic WatchAdvice
Mar 23, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic

Part cyberpunk, part stealth fighter, we go hands on with the Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic to see if this avante guarde piece can handle the urban jungle. What We Love The faceted designLittle details you keep noticing after a longer wearIt truly is a stealth watch with little branding What We Don’t The loud ceramic rotor noiseThickness of the caseLegibility of the hands and dial Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Bell & Ross is one of those under-the-radar brands. Ironic given their penchant for aviation-themed timepieces! So when I was thinking about what watch I’d like to review, and not had the chance to really spend much time with, Bell & Ross came to mind. I haven’t read any hands-on reviews with them in recent times, nor have I really seen any floating around. Originally I was thinking of doing a review of one of their more classic pieces, however, Bell & Ross offered us an alternative. The new Cyber Skeleton in black ceramic. Introducing the Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic Initial Thoughts I’ve never been into all-black watches. I’ve nothing against them, they’ve just not really appealed to me all that much. However, the Bell & Ross Cyber Skeleton isn’t your everyday all-black piece. It is a statement on your wrist. One that will most probably not get much attention until it does. It’s one of those pieces that isn’t easily recognisable from a distance (hence under the radar) but on closer inspec...

Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir Reteam for a New Addition to the Masterpiece Collection Worn & Wound
Mar 19, 2024

Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir Reteam for a New Addition to the Masterpiece Collection

Swiss brand Maurice Lacroix, in collaboration with Label Noir, unveils the latest iteration of its Masterpiece Skeleton, the Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir. While many in the industry may be getting collab fatigue, it’s hard to deny that this new release isn’t the perfect example of a partnership done right: each party leaning on the other’s strength to make something truly impressive.   Building upon the success of their previous collaboration on the AIKON model in 2020, Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir join forces again to recreate the magic that was this original release. The Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir pushes the boundaries of design even further for Maurice Lacroix, showcasing that a well-crafted timepiece can, at times, venture outside the box to make something that expands the brand’s identity in new ways. With the Masterpiece Skeleton, Maurice Lacroix pays homage to skeleton watches while embracing modern technology. In particular, the Masterpiece Skeleton uses both CNC and CAD technology to bring a level of minute detail to their eye-catching design. In doing so, Maurice Lacroix’s artisans have produced a product in which every detail of the movement is both precise and reliable, while still maintaining its captivating filigreed appearance.   The mechanical movement of the Masterpiece Skeleton is the Manufacture ML134 caliber, adorned with Grand Colimaçon, sand-blasted finishing and bridges with polished edges. As with all Maurice Lacroix watches, ...

Introducing: The Next Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Sketch - An Artistic Alternative To Skeletonization Fratello
Mar 15, 2024

Introducing: The Next Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Sketch - An Artistic Alternative To Skeletonization

Two years ago, Bvlgari introduced the Octo Finissimo Sketch, with its dial printing executed in pencil-sketch style. It was a stroke of brilliance from Bvlgari’s Product Creation Executive Director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Now, two years later, the brand is celebrating its 140th birthday. To mark the occasion, Stigliani took his pencil out of the drawer […] Visit Introducing: The Next Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Sketch - An Artistic Alternative To Skeletonization to read the full article.

Comments 5

  1. Karam
    The Greubel Forsey architecture mentioned here is genuinely impressive from a chronometry standpoint. Those openworked layouts don't come cheap in terms of manufacturing tolerances. Curious if the article touched on how skeleton designs affect COSC certification or if there's any measurable deviation penalty versus solid movement cases.
  2. Anonymous
    Skeleton watches always feel a bit theatrical to me, like you're paying extra just to see the gears spinning. That said, there's something genuinely beautiful about the hand-pierced pocket watches from the 18th century mentioned here. Modern ones feel like they're trying too hard.
  3. WatchHusk
    The AP Royal Oak Skeleton and Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon get all the press, but honestly if you want to appreciate openworked movements without the six-figure price tag, look at what the microbrands are doing. Brands like Nezumi Studios and Raven are exploring skeleton concepts with real craftsmanship and way more soul per dollar spent.
  4. Reece
    been looking at skeleton watches and wondering about the depreciation angle. AP Royal Oak holds value pretty well historically, but does the skeleton variant retain differently than the standard model? cost of ownership over 5 years must be brutal if you're paying sport watch prices for something you mainly wear on weekends.
  5. Ravi
    Is a skeleton watch actually worth it as a first watch versus something like a standard Submariner or Speedmaster. I love the look but some of the collector stuff seems way out of budget. Should I be patient and save or is there a good entry point.

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