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Best of 2025: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Dec 19, 2025

Best of 2025: Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking presented relatively few genuinely new releases in 2025. Many watchmakers instead reintroduced familiar models in new configurations or colourways - an approach typically associated with larger brands. The strongest releases were excellent, but they were few and far between. Our highlights reflect that: Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch stood out for its confidence and momentum, while Petermann Bédat and Raúl Pagès showed there is still room to say something new within the time-only format. Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon – SJX When I first heard about Urban Jürgensen being revived, I was sceptical. Could an investor halfway across the world and a watchmaker busy with his own brand pull it off? As it turned out, they could. The Rosenfields, Andy and Alex, father and son, and Kari Voutilainen, managed to put together a collection of three watches – all impressively conceived and executed – and then deliver a good number of watches in the months since the launch in mid-2025. The flagship of the Urban Jürgensen line-up and clearly its best creation to date is the UJ-1. A tourbillon with remontoir, the UJ-1 is modelled on the Oval pocket watch that was made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen. The movement instantly feels like it was descended from the Oval, which is a feat considering the disparity in scale. Mr Voutilainen managed to translate many of the key elements of the Oval into wristwatch format, including the “floating” barrel and...

Year in Review: the Best Watches Under $5,000 of 2025 Worn & Wound
Dec 18, 2025

Year in Review: the Best Watches Under $5,000 of 2025

I will be the first to admit that selecting the top watches of the year under, over, or between certain price points is an arbitrary exercise and perhaps not all that useful. Still, it’s the end of the year, and the end of year is all about list making (and reflecting on the last 12 months, making goals for the future – but mostly it’s about lists). Figuring out where the “value” is in the current watch market is a challenge, so setting the top price for the “Best Watches Under…” article does actually kind of mean something this year. One of the predominant story lines on our blog, in Instagram and YouTube comments, and at Windup Watch Fairs and other other meetups all year long has been price sensitivity. Specifically, that watches are far too expensive, and we’ve entered a period where you’re now expected to pay more, but receive less.  That narrative makes a certain amount of sense when you examine specific sectors of the industry. But I think there are still pockets of great value and excellent design if you look for them and have a somewhat adventurous sensibility. As I looked back at some of my favorite releases of the year that represent what I think of as genuine value, it felt like the $4,000-$5,000 range was the sweet spot, with some great options well below that as well, and this list reflects that trend for the most part.  I’ve tried to stick primarily to smaller makers, indies and microbrands, for the purposes of this particular list, b...

Topo Designs Global Briefcase Review: A Versatile 3-Way Work Bag That Switches Between Backpack and Messenger Worn & Wound
Dec 18, 2025

Topo Designs Global Briefcase Review: A Versatile 3-Way Work Bag That Switches Between Backpack and Messenger

When I’m planning to leave the house for a full day – whether I’m headed to work or someplace else – I’m a chronic overpacker. To me, there’s peace of mind in knowing I have an extra charger, granola bar, or jacket with me, especially when returning home isn’t easy. Traveling to the office adds an additional layer of expectation when considering a bag, as I bring multiple laptops and a lunch with me most days.  I’ve gone back and forth on whether I’m Team Messenger Bag or Team Backpack when it comes to my corporate 9 to 5. I like the significant storage options that a backpack offers and the stability and comfort it provides when walking long distances. Yet messenger bags fit my usual style in a better way, and I like that I can access the main compartments while on the go (not possible with a backpack). I was really intrigued by the Global Briefcase  ($149) from Topo Designs as it meant I didn’t have to commit to one camp or the other. I was curious if the brand could do both modalities equally well. My needs in a work bag are very different from my needs in an outdoor bag. The Topo Designs Rover Trail Pack I reviewed in May held all of my gear in a stacked, vertical fashion. I didn’t need to access anything particularly urgently, which meant I loaded the bag from the top down. This sort of set-up isn’t ideal for my work needs though, when I prefer all of my items to have their own space. To test out this bag, I used both carry styles over a few ...

Monochrome Turns to Habring² for the Seconde Morte SJX Watches
Dec 18, 2025

Monochrome Turns to Habring² for the Seconde Morte

The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte (MdS4) is a limited-edition collaboration between the team at Monochrome Watches and Austrian independent Habring², built around the brand’s signature jumping seconds complication. Powered by the hand-wound A11S calibre, the watch reflects the marque’s focus on technically robust, thoughtfully refined movements and offers a straightforward value proposition. Limited to 33 individually numbered pieces and sold exclusively through a short souscription-style sales window, the MdS4 highlights both Habring²’s technical merit and Monochrome’s aesthetic sensibilities. Initial thoughts Richard and Maria Habring are outliers in the field of independent watchmaking. Among the sole guardians of the Austrian watchmaking tradition, the husband and wife team produce a range of deceptively technical (yet honestly priced) watches. This rare combination makes the brand’s watches appealing to many insiders like the team behind the Dutch website Monochrome Watches, that have just announced their latest 1930s-inspired collaboration. While the watch and its movement are the work of Habring², the team at Monochrome turned to designer and Time+Tide contributor Pietro Pilla for the Art Deco-inspired dial design. The discreet black dial features applied Roman numerals that alternate with delicate teardrop-shaped indexes, a choice that helps prevent the dial from looking too crowded. The printed railroad scale that rings the dial i...

Hands-On With The Refined Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai And Sumi Fratello
Kiwame Tokyo Dec 18, 2025

Hands-On With The Refined Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai And Sumi

We have seen a massive increase in interesting small Japanese brands in recent years. Great examples are Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka, Kikuchi Nakagawa, and Minase. One of the newest microbrands is Kiwame Tokyo, which presented its inaugural Kurotsuki and Usuki models not too long ago. The watches stood out because of their beautiful dials. For […] Visit Hands-On With The Refined Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai And Sumi to read the full article.

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring² Fratello
Dec 18, 2025

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring²

Our friends over at Monochrome and Habring² are building quite a history together. Their first collaboration, in 2021, celebrated Monochrome’s 15th anniversary. The online watch magazine and the Austrian watchmaking couple teamed up once more in 2023. Their sophomore release, a split-seconds chronograph, raised money for charity. Today, we get a third collaboration in the […] Visit Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring² to read the full article.

In the shop – The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte Monochrome
Dec 18, 2025

In the shop – The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte

For our fourth MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription, we are teaming up once again with independent Austrian watchmaker Habring², a brand dear to our hearts with whom we created our first MdS watch. Following the instant success of the Montre de Souscription 1, a monopusher chronograph with a salmon 1940s-inspired sector dial, we’re staying true to our passion […]

First Look – Zeitwinkel Updates Its Classic 082° Central Second Watch Monochrome
Dec 18, 2025

First Look – Zeitwinkel Updates Its Classic 082° Central Second Watch

For more than 15 years, Zeitwinkel, an independent watchmaker based in Saint-Imier, has quietly crafted mechanical watches focused on precision, clarity, and long-term reliability. Founded in 2006, the brand produces all its movements in-house and builds every watch by hand in small numbers. Its collections, including the 273° with large date, the 188° with small […]

Introducing: The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 Fratello
Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S Dec 18, 2025

Introducing: The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058

The first thing that popped up in my head when laying eyes on the Spring Drive-powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 was “Root Beer.” The colors, shapes, and vibe make me think of that famous GMT watch made by The Crown. It’s a good thing this watch is designed for the U.S. […] Visit Introducing: The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 to read the full article.

Seiko Pours a “Root Beer” Prospex LX GMT SJX Watches
Seiko Dec 18, 2025

Seiko Pours a “Root Beer” Prospex LX GMT

Seiko has introduced the Prospex LX GMT SNR058, a luxury-leaning sport watch inspired by the constellation and intended exclusively for the US market. Executed in Zaratsu-polished titanium with Diashield coating, it pairs a richly textured gradient dial with a Spring Drive GMT movement more commonly associated with Grand Seiko. In doing so, the SNR058 blurs the line between Seiko and its grander cousin, inviting comparison not on branding, but on tangible quality. Initial thoughts According to Seiko, this US-exclusive special edition evokes the North America Nebula in the Cygnus constellation, named for its resemblance to the continent. It is, presumably, a coincidence that the dial also recalls a frosted glass of root beer; arguably a more recognisable symbol of the US market than any nebula. Regardless, either reading feels apt for a United States-only edition. On paper, the Prospex LX line blurs the line between the Seiko and its grander cousin. The collection holds up well next to similar watches from Grand Seiko, pairing a more assertive, utilitarian aesthetic with a more cohesive bracelet design. Branding aside, it also presents stronger value proposition thanks to its Diashield-coated titanium case and bracelet; the equivalent models from Grand Seiko come dressed in heavier stainless steel, which scratches (but can also be refinished) more easily. The Prospex LX GMT also benefits from a toolless micro-adjustment system for the bracelet, something increasingly sought...

Fratello Talks: The Forces Redefining The Watch Industry’s Future Fratello
Dec 18, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Forces Redefining The Watch Industry’s Future

As 2025 draws to a close, it’s a natural moment to pause, take stock, and look ahead at what the coming year may hold for the watch industry. In this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by Daan and Lex for an in-depth conversation about the various factors and forces that are actively […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Forces Redefining The Watch Industry’s Future to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound
Seiko Astron SSH151 Dec 17, 2025

[VIDEO] The Seiko Astron SSH151, an Award-Winning Tech-Forward Timepiece

Seiko launched the Astron in 1969, changing not just the brand’s trajectory but the way watches were made. The first commercially available quartz wristwatch, it arrived in solid gold and cost ¥450,000, about $1,250 at the time, or roughly $10,000 in 2025. Though “vintage” to modern eyes, its design was surprisingly luxurious and quietly radical, blending traditional finishing with industrial design cues in a way only Seiko could achieve. The exterior, however, was not the main story. The caliber 35SQ inside is what rewrote horology. With a quartz oscillator vibrating at 8,192 Hz, it delivered accuracy far beyond the mechanical watches of the day. It was not only a proof-of-concept that pushed horology into the 20th century, it also proved that Seiko was willing to innovate in an industry steeped in tradition.   The post [VIDEO] The Seiko Astron SSH151, an Award-Winning Tech-Forward Timepiece appeared first on Worn & Wound.

First Look – The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Blasts Off in New Colours Monochrome
Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Blasts Off Dec 17, 2025

First Look – The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Blasts Off in New Colours

With companies like Elon Musk’s SpaceX and Jeff Bezos’ Blue Origin, space tourism is no longer the stuff of sci-fi novels. While Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch has dominated the space story, others, like Fortis, have produced robust tool watches for astronauts, cosmonauts and “novonauts” alike. Boasting space-tested calibres, Fortis releases a fresh batch of four Stratoliner […]