Video
What Makes a Watch a "Tool Watch"?
I explore the definition of a "tool watch", what are the features required to define watch as a tool.
Video
I explore the definition of a "tool watch", what are the features required to define watch as a tool.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: A break this week from reader submissions of our ongoing 3 for 5k column to make room for an entry from Worn & Wound contributor Cait Bazemore. Cait is a watch industry veteran and her choices reflect her experience in the space in an interesting way. Specifically, they are all tied to her connections with the people behind the brands. This is a phenomenon most of us who work in watches for any length of time eventually come to understand. It just feels good to support the people we connect with (even when it’s hypothetical support for a Worn & Wound column). And honestly, this isn’t exclusive to watch industry professionals. Anyone who has attended a Windup event or any other watch fair and taken a minute to speak with a brand owner can probably relate. Today, I notch another rite of passage as a contributor at Worn & Wound: my three-watch collection for under $5,000. The mission is clear, but I have to be honest, it was much more challenging than I expected. This exercise taught me a lot about myself, what I value, and how that actually translates to a dollar figure. I’ll confess, I realized a majority of my most desired watches sit around the $2,700 to $3,300 range – multiply that times three, and the total is well over the $5,000 mark. I had to carefully consider three timepieces that fell roughly around $1,500 each and that would make a well-rounded three-watch collection: a dress watch, a sport watch, and a wild card seemed like obvious ...
Hodinkee
Among the ever-evolving sizes and colors of modern Tudor, we now have the latest (and smallest and most colorful) iteration of the brand's dive-inspired chronograph, the Black Bay Chronograph 39. Dubbed the "Bumblebee" for its bright yellow dial and black accents, it marks the progressive 39-ification of Tudor's core lineup and forms what I think will be a very appealing new offering for the brand. When Tudor returned to the American market in 2012, the brand's core offerings evolved around an initial 41mm footprint. This includes early hits like the Black Bay, the Heritage Chrono, and the Ranger. Then, in 2017, Tudor announced the Black Bay Chronograph 79350, a 41mm steel chronograph with 200 meters of water resistance and snowflake hands. Since then, the Black Bay Chronograph range has been tweaked, improved, and expanded considerably, with additional colors (including the recent pink and flamingo blue). But while we saw the Black Bay eventually offer the 39mm 58 range and the Ranger drop to 39mm (and later to 36mm), the Chronograph range remained steadfast at 41mm. While 41mm is within the range for a conventionally sized modern sports watch, the enthusiast taste has shifted toward the 39mm sweet spot (likely at least in part due to the success of the Black Bay 58 and the Pelagos 39). Additionally, as slightly smaller cases continue to be in vogue, more attention is (and was) being paid to case thickness. The 41mm spec of the Black Bay Chrono wears well, but it's not sm...
Monochrome
Since its revival in 2017, the Captain Cook has become one of Rado’s greatest success stories. Originally introduced in 1962, the collection has grown into a very diverse family, ranging from compact vintage-inspired divers to high-tech ceramic models, skeleton watches and chronographs. Rado has also experimented with materials, colours and finishes while preserving the distinctive character […]
Worn & Wound
Temporal Works, the brand brought to you by Armoury founder Mark Cho and the Armoury’s creative director Elliot Hammer, is only about six months removed from their first release at the end of last year. Today, they’ve unveiled the next watch in their Series A collection, dubbed the Rambler. It’s a slight tweak on the simple idea that defined the Series A in the first place. According to Cho, he thought of that watch as something that should be as straightforward and effortlessly elegant as a well tailored navy blazer. If that first batch of Series A watches could be thought of as trading in a somewhat elevated level of refinement, the new Series A Rambler takes a similar approach but with a more rugged perspective. The new Rambler takes a more tool watch forward approach than its predecessor in a few key ways. First, the case has been finished with a bead blasting process and forgoes the polishing of the original Series A, making it immediately more of a casual, toned down piece. Matte dials in “Black Sesame” and “Red Bean” feel both classic and kind of earthy, with handset designs borrowed from historic pilot watches. It’s a tasteful, sector dial with the brand’s logo appearing at the 4:00 position, and no additional text to speak of. Straps are also appropriately casual, with the black dial pairing with an olive canvas strap, and the red dial one in gray Alcantara. The Series A Rambler is sized at 37mm in diameter and 45mm from lug to lug. It’s 10...
Hodinkee
Former Audemars Piguet Chief Executive François-Henri Bennahmias unveiled details of a new watch brand called N3W5 that will launch in late 2027 and draw on some significant names from the Swiss industry for the design, production, and craftsmanship. Called 'N3W5' - an acronym for 'North, East, West, South' and pronounced 'NEWS,' the new marque will launch at Dubai Watch Week next year, the Honourable Merchants Group, the Bennahmias-led luxury brand constellation, said in a statement. Watch prices for the first models will start at about CHF 20,000, and production will commence at 'several thousand pieces' in the first year. A second collection will debut in 2028, according to the company's plans. François-Henri Bennahmias at an event in Crissier, Switzerland, introducing The Honourable Merchants Group. The news of N3W5 comes as pressure and speculation have mounted as to what Bennahmias, who led AP for more than a decade and oversaw a period of spectacular sales growth to more than CHF 2.3 billion for the family-owned brand, would do next in the watch world. At a flashy event near Lausanne last year, Bennahmias unveiled his vision for THMG, a new, multi-brand luxury brand group backed by private investors that promised a new philosophy of work, innovation, products, and sustainability in the luxury space. The charismatic executive said the new group would not be driven solely by profit and that at THMG, "we want to change the world of business. It is a mission," Be...
Hodinkee
Roy Davidoff has spent a life keeping up with the time. Born into a family of jewelers and a youth spent in Geneva, followed by a move to Miami, watches have been a constant throughout his professional career. Roy Davidoff (Photo Courtesy Cartier). A return to Switzerland saw stints at brands including Bovet and Jacob & Co., before becoming a dealer of vintage and pre-owned with his brother and the launch of their business - Roy & Sacha Davidoff SA - more than a decade ago. The fraternal duo gained prominence as dealers and experts regarding the Omega Speedmaster - a specialized section of the vintage market that has most certainly had its ups and downs. A respected name and authority in the industry, Davidoff most recently served as a jury member for The Cartier Prize For Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow, where, alongside fellow judges including Kari Voutilainen, were tasked with making selections for creations from European watchmaking students who were chosen for their technical and artistic interpretations reconsidering different ways to tell time. Davidoff's role as a dealer and collector demands deep knowledge and constantly taking the pulse of the secondary market, shifting tastes, and changing demands. At the high-end and elite level, the market has changed, Davidoff says, as many collectors seek assurance and certainty in modern, independent brands and watchmakers. He's candid, enthusiastic, and dedicated to the Swiss industry, where he's found a place amon...
Monochrome
MB&F; has never been short of reasons to celebrate with a limited edition. This one, though, marks the opening of something new for the brand. After more than two decades of working with retail partners across the United States, the independent brand has finally opened its own New York lounge in Manhattan. To celebrate the […]
Deployant
Parmigiani releases an extension to their Tonda PF Sport Chronograph line with their Ultra-Cermet ceramic case with a dial in grey and a mineral blue.
Hodinkee
We're in the thick of summer now, and with it comes days at the beach, ice cream trucks, and perhaps even a trip to the movies for the summer blockbuster, which this year is Steven Spielberg's Disclosure Day. The film opened to $44 million domestically and has climbed to $195 million after three weeks in theaters. Hamilton has used the occasion to continue its nearly century-long tradition of working with filmmakers, outfitting two of the film's central characters with watches of their own. Disclosure Day follows a race between those trying to reveal a long-hidden truth and the forces working to keep it buried. In the film, Josh O'Connor's Dr. Daniel Kellner wears a Khaki Field Mechanical, while Noah Scanlon, another central character, is played by Colin Firth and wears a Jazzmaster Open Heart. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm. Why We're Watching Disclosure Day marks the first time Hamilton has placed a watch in a film directed by Spielberg—he produced, but didn't direct, Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny, which means this is new ground for a relationship that's typically run through Christopher Nolan. Notably, there likely isn't a watch to be found in Nolan's highly anticipated The Odyssey. Josh O'Connor in Disclosure Day. Photo courtesy of Hamilton. That history with Nolan is worth dwelling on, because it's arguably the high point of Hamilton's film work. Interstellar gave us "The Murph," the Hamilton Pilot's Watch worn by Matthew McConaughey's Cooper across de...
Time+Tide
Awake introduces the a new style to its sơn mài lacquer dials with the Frosted Leaf Royal Blue, adding 24k gold leaf to the process
Revolution
Monochrome
Timepieces by Awake Watches have clicked with the community mostly because of their dials, if not always for the watches as a whole. You can pretty much count on whatever you pick from their collections looking alive on the wrist. Whether it is the Son Mai Silver Leaf “Atlantis Blue” handcrafted in Vietnam using ancestral […]
Fratello
The Grand Départ of the 2026 Tour de France is just days away, and what better moment to introduce the Breitling Top Time B01 Eddy Merckx? It’s a watch honoring “The Cannibal,” the man who won five Tour de France titles and 525 victories in total. The Belgian legend earned his ferocious nickname due to […] Visit Allez, Allez, Allez! Introducing The Tour De France Yellow Breitling Top Time B01 Eddy Merckx to read the full article.
Revolution
SJX Watches
Most recently the chief executive of TAG Heuer, Antoine Pin has just started in the top job at De Bethune, the independent watchmaker owned by American watch retail giant The 1916 Company. De Bethune in its entirety sells as many watches in a year as a single TAG Heuer boutique does in a few months, so the scale is entirely different, as is the price segment and target audience. It’s almost a certainty that Mr Pin was tapped by De Bethune’s owners to take the brand to the next level in terms of size and reach, an ambition that now seems realistic given the success of F.P. Journe. Mr Pin will lead De Bethune alongside Denis Flageollet, the brand’s cofounder who has been its technical driving force since the beginning. He takes over from Pierre Jacques, a two-time chief executive of De Bethune who ran the brand from 2010 to 2015, and then again from 2017 to 2025 after a change in ownership. With an extensive track record in watchmaking going all the way back to Sainte-Croix in the 1990s, Mr Flageollet’s technical prowess is unquestionable; amongst his recent creations is the Sympathique clock in collaboration with Louis Vuitton. His watchmaking talent will be complemented by Mr Pin’s management and marketing know-how, skills honed over two decades at LVMH, where he climbed the ranks and held various management roles at Berluti, Bulgari, and Zenith. He was chief executive of TAG Heuer for almost 18 months before a surprise departure at the start of 2026.
Fratello
Frederique Constant’s Moneta line has been received with great applause from the watch community. The formal design with its distinguishing internal reeded ring rubbed many enthusiasts, including me, the right way. Today, I get a chance to go hands-on with the latest edition, the solar-powered Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre. It makes me wonder: is this […] Visit Is The Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre The Perfect Outlier Dress Watch For Your Collection? to read the full article.
Monochrome
François-Henri Bennahmias, the charismatic former Audemars Piguet CEO who grew the manufacture’s annual sales from CHF 500 million to CHF 2 billion announces his first watch project. Following his departure from the brand, Bennahmias unveiled The Honorable Merchant, a venture conceived as a platform for carefully curated luxury products and collaborations, spanning multiple product categories, […]
Monochrome
Frederique Constant presented the first Runabout editions in 2009, and the partnership with the Riva Historical Society was formalised in 2013 to help preserve and celebrate one of Italy’s most enduring symbols of la dolce vita. The collection has become a biennial event, paying tribute to the wooden speedboats that defined the glamour of the […]
WristBuzz
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80, Hamilton Khaki Auto 38, G-Shock GMW-B5000, Tudor Black Bay 58, Citizen Tsuyosa, Seiko SPB143, Frederique Constant Hybrid HSW, Tissot T-Touch, Christopher Ward C63, Hamilton Khaki Aviation.
Monochrome
With more than 500 film and television appearances, Hamilton, the “watchmaker of filmmakers“, is creating bespoke watches for directors, supplying existing models to define characters and developing timepieces that are part of the film’s narrative or extend beyond the screen. Christopher Nolan has been one of Hamilton’s creative partners, with memorable collaborations such as Interstellar […]
Fratello
Rolex has a long history of creating some of the most remarkable dials in the industry. Its stunning natural stone dials, the famous Stella dials, and the brilliant wooden dials are just a few legendary examples. While those exotic ones have long been part of the brand’s collection, over the past few years, Rolex has […] Visit Rolex Injected The Perfect Dose Of Fun Into Its Recent Series Of Colorful Dials to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Hamilton reunites with Christopher Nolan, but this time the watch isn’t worn on screen – it’s designed in tribute to his new epic, The Odyssey.
WristBuzz
The Balancier gets a serious upgrade, and a new designation that could define how Greubel Forsey talks about quality from here on out. Greubel Forsey Balancier QM debuts the brand's new Qualite Musee hallmark in a 39.6mm time-only piece on the Balancier Contemporain platform. Full look.
Hodinkee
What We Know If you haven't heard of the brand Split before, you're likely not alone. The brand has not previously been distributed in the U.S., but it came to my attention when their chronograph, called "In The Skies," launched with a fully luminous case made from a proprietary ceramic-and-polymer fusion called Ceramod+. At $2,053, it was an interesting and fun novelty, and cheaper than the IWC Ceralume Perpetual Calendar (though a vastly different proposition, to be fair). Now that material, sans lumen, is coming to the United States with a new, relatively affordable GMT. But the watches are only a small part of the story for Split. The brand was co-founded by Edward Margulies, the third generation of a prominent family of UK-based Swiss watch distributors. His father, Marcus Margulies, might be known to some as the collector behind one of the most impressive collections of Audemars Piguet watches in history, which formed the basis for much of the AP museum. Edward moved to Switzerland at the age of 19 to train to follow in his footsteps. While the press release talks about how he spent his life putting on a smile to hide a frown caused by burying trauma for years, his interview in the New York Times reveals something deeper. The reality is that, after decades of struggling with his mental health and taking traditional paths of therapy and antidepressants, his physical health had deteriorated, and he was prescribed fentanyl. "Next thing I know," he said to the New York...
Worn & Wound
I love it when a little sub-genre in watches emerges as an area of near obsession. I’m sure some of my fellow hyper fixated readers know exactly what I’m talking about. This happens in other areas of our lives as well, and it might be easier to identify across more mainstream interests. For example, there was that month during the pandemic where I decided, quite compulsively, to watch and rewatch every David Fincher film, plus his many commercials (this one is perfect) and music videos, in chronological order. I also spent years, on and off, but always with real intention, collecting the first pressing of every Tom Waits album. You get the idea – it’s the collector’s mentality, zeroed in on something hyper specific. And so it is with square and rectangular watches, as of late. But not just square and rectangular watches. I’m talking about square and rectangular watches that break free of the confines of the dress watch style most often associated with this classic case shape. Over the last few years, there have been more than a handful of watches with 90 degree angles that aspire to sportiness, and I’m finding myself more and more drawn to them. That, indeed, was what drew me to the Makina Andras II seen here, a watch that plays with genre expectations in a really fun way from a brand that has, as should be obvious from these photos, a completely unique point of view and design language. Before diving into the Andras, let’s calibrate around some other n...
Hodinkee
This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarians. Today's post was written by Miranda Marraccini. Little kids love to touch things. If you've ever been a parent or even just spent time with a toddler, you'll know that an unattended cup of coffee, a billowing plastic bag on the street, or a dirty toy in the sandbox is a temptation no small child can resist. But it's also an amazing quality, because kids are great at hands-on learning, including in the field of horology. In our library collection at the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), we've got plenty of books that show kids how to tell time. Books, however, can only go so far—and I'm saying that as a librarian. For interactive horological fun, our library boasts a selection of kits, games, puzzles, and toys to handle and assemble. Image 2 One of the most charming specimens of children's education we have is a 1940s–1950s era "junior clockmaker construction set" (image 1). On the lid of the box, a proud-looking papa in a full suit (presumably just returned from his job at a midtown advertising agency) watches over his two delighted children, who are working on their toy clock. The completed clock is shown on the left—a traditional chalet-style Black Forest or cuckoo clock, ornamented with festive boy and girl figures dancing over a 12-hour dial, two twee ducks, and a tulip motif. The blond boy on the box is staring straight at the viewer, holding the partially assembled gear train,...
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