Worn & Wound
How to Choose Your First Mechanical Watch
The post How to Choose Your First Mechanical Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
The post How to Choose Your First Mechanical Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Three founders share their tips on independent brand ownership - Oliver Gallaugher, Susan Galvin, and Richard Benc.The post The challenges of running an independent brand, as told by the people behind them appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar LImited Edition For Hodinkee honors the legacy of the El Primero and the incredible accuracy of the Chronomaster Original. A limited run of 200 pieces has been produced worldwide.
Worn & Wound
When you work in the watch industry, one of the questions you get asked over and over again is “What’s the best watch for $XXX?” The dollar amount is constantly shifting depending on who is asking the question or their level of horological curiosity, but over time I think most of develop a stock answer to questions like these. My favorite recommendation for almost anyone asking about watches under $1,000 is some version of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. These are, and have always been, fantastic watches. They’re affordable, easy to read, and now come in a variety of sizes, dial colors, and case metals to suit just about any taste. But the not-so-secret weapon, in my opinion, is the manually wound movement. If using a watch like this everyday, dutifully winding it as needed, doesn’t hook you on this hobby, I kind of don’t know what will. My own admiration for the mechanical versions of these watches aside, it comes as no real surprise that Hamilton would want to expand the potential reach of the Khaki Field by offering an even easier to wear quartz version. And that’s what we have here. It’s a somewhat strange proposition, taking a watch whose identity, such as it is, is based around a mechanical caliber, and removing it entirely from the equation, but it turns out that even in a quartz configuration the Khaki Field retains a lot of its character. The new Khaki Field Quartz watches are available in both the familiar 38mm and a new 33mm size in whit...
Fratello
Blancpain aims for air superiority by strengthening its Air Command “squadron” with a new version of its reimagined 1950s US Air Force flyback chronograph. The 42.5mm model comes in a lightweight titanium case with a black bezel insert, an olive-green dial, a black bezel, and beige lume, numerals, and markings. Is this new creation pushing […] Visit Hands-On With The Newest Blancpain Air Command - A Green-Dial Version In Titanium Joins The Squadron to read the full article.
Deployant
Raymond Weil releases 5 new models to their Millesime 35mm collection, three time only central seconds and a two with moonphase display.
Monochrome
Bulgari’s personality is intrinsically shaped by Rome, incorporating elements of the city’s magnificent imperial architecture into its fabulous jewellery and watches. The iconic Octo family, which includes the invincible legion of ultra-thin, record-breaking Octo Finissimo models, welcomes the new Octo Roma Striking 8 Days. If the watch looks familiar, it’s because the movement powering this […]
Fratello
It’s been quite a week. After completing a 4,000-word article on the history of the Museum Watch, I reverted to covering the latest news and thinking about my next vintage story. However, little by little, the comments have trickled in on our site and over messages on Instagram. A noteworthy comment came in from a […] Visit Found: The Third Museum Watch Prototype to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The new Tissot Chemin Des Tourelles Skeleton Black presents a classic dress watch that leans further into a modern feel.The post The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton merges modern and classical at an approachable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
A revolution in affordable Haute Horlogerie with the latest M.A.D.1S. What We Love: Affordable haute horology timepiece The three-blade rotor design is well thought out, with it becoming even more fun with lume activated! Despite its thickness, the timepiece sits very well on the wrist thanks to the flat case back. What We Don’t: The hour time barrel is read right to left as it spins counter-clockwise when it should be read left to right The racing-inspired textile leather strap lacks adjustment for slim wrists. Lack of secondary strap choices from M.A.D Editions! Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The M.A.D.1S. is one of the best, if not the best, horological “fun” pieces that are available on the market right now. There are not too many other watches in the luxury world of horology that offer such an amusing timepiece that gets everyone talking, even non-watchgoers! The M.A.D 1 has a relatively short-lived history, as it was first released in June 2021; however, since then, it has been met with an overwhelming reception, giving more and more incentive for the M.A.D. Editions brand to keep creating more innovative, affordable entertainment timepieces! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The brand new 2024 M.A.D.1S. models To understand how M.A.D.1 first came about, we need to look at how the brand M.A.D Edition started and how its big sister brand, MB&F;, played a maj...
Fratello
Fears Watches is one of the small-brand success stories of this decade. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill revived his family’s brand with the Redcliff in 2016. Since 2020, the brand seems to have gone from strength to strength, and the new Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour shows this. This year the brand opened a boutique in its hometown […] Visit Introducing: The Colorful Charm Of The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour to read the full article.
Monochrome
In the mid-1950s, Junghans produced watches for the newly established German army following World War II. The pilot chronographs had rotating timing bezels and specifically the Bundeswehr (German armed forces) chronograph has become a bit of a legend, serving as the inspiration for two new Pilot Chronoscope models. They’re variants of the exisitng Meister Pilot […]
Time+Tide
Somehow, 5th place is just 2mm thick! Until the record is broken again, here are the thinnest mechanical watches ever made.The post The thinnest mechanical watches ever made appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It takes guts to walk around wearing a large, all-gold integrated-bracelet sports watch. This genre is not for the faint of heart. I like to think I’m fairly spunky, so I figured, “Why not?” I reached out to Girard-Perregaux and asked if I could try the latest gold Laureato 42mm models. When a rather weighty […] Visit Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Regular readers will be aware that Ken Gargett is a great fan of quality sherry. For some, the mere mention of Sherry will bring a thrill; for others, rolling of the eyes and shaking of the head. It really is a love it or hate it style. And this one is something seriously different.
SJX Watches
Two years ago Hublot introduced mineral stone dials for the first time and now the brand has returned to Earth’s rare natural stones – and one from elsewhere in the galaxy – with the Classic Fusion Elements II. As with the first edition, the Elements II is a limited edition for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass made up of five different models, each sporting a dial of mineral stone: pink jasper, sodalite, nephrite jade, turquoise, and lunar meteorite. The Elements II is based on Hublot’s signature time-only watch, a minimalist design with the trademark porthole-shaped bezel and case. With just three hands and no date, plus the Hublot logo in gold-powder print, the dial is a blank slate that allows the grain of each mineral stone to stand out. Turquoise Initial thoughts Hublot does two things well, the minimalist, classic Hublot, and artist collaborations, particularly the recent Daniel Arsham and earlier Takashi Murakami. The Elements II is essentially a classic Hublot with a mineral stone dial free of any markings save for the brand logo in gilt print. The clean aesthetic of the dial is maximised to show off the natural graining of various mineral stones. The case is unusual for being entirely in polished titanium, and also two-tone thanks to 18k gold accents, but it’s a perfect complement to the colours of the mineral stone dials. Lunar meteorite This might seem surprising given the clean styling of the watch, but the stone dials would have arguably been even ...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) debuts the revamped Duometre line earlier this year, including the Duometre Chronograph Moon (and the entry-level Quantieme Lunaire). The watch incorporates almost every possible complication, some clever and others barely related, to create a chronograph that incudes a host of other simple functions, ranging from a day-night indicator to twin power reserves. Traditionally, the Duometre was centred on the chronograph, which makes this the line’s flagship model. It’s essentially an evolution of the first-generation model, retaining a chronograph mechanism that is compact and clever, but gains additional complications that feel extraneous. The platinum model gets a copper or “salmon” dial Initial thoughts The Duometre Chronograph Moon reflects many of JLC’s strengths, particularly as a movement maker. The movement inside is the sophisticated cal. 391 that makes logical use of the two-train construction to power a smartly designed chronograph mechanism. Visually, the movement is appealing and boasts quality, workmanlike finishing with details like a free-sprung balance and grande sonnerie-style winding clicks. Although it is industrial haute horlogerie, the calibre is clearly best in class. The cal. 391 Both barrels each sport grande sonnerie-style winding clicks But the cal. 391 is nearly identical to the cal. 380 found in the first-generation Duometre introduced in 2007. While it is an accomplished movement, the cal. 391 is hardly novel. Ins...
Fratello
Every so often, the people at Parmigiani Fleurier send us a box with a few of their newer watches. This time, along with the new Toric models, it included a few variations of the brand’s Tonda PF. Our eyes were quickly drawn to the very impressive all-platinum Tonda PF Skeleton. The more sporty Chronographs on […] Visit Hands-On With The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic In Its Ideal 36mm Size to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The Spirit Zulu Time collection gets an easy-wearing addition.
Worn & Wound
There are a handful of constants in the watch world that are truly worth celebrating: the annual crush of people on Geneva each spring for Watches & Wonders, the annual debate over whether a “summer watch” is a thing, and that first comment on any IG post that begs a watch to be a millimeter or two smaller. Like clockwork (pardon the pun) you can count on these things, year in and year out, and there’s comfort in that. Another reliable watch industry trope comes to us on a regular basis from Seiko in the form of the Cocktail Time limited edition, a tradition that began with a watch that is a true enthusiast icon, and now stands as a running series of just plain good dress watches that Seiko is somehow able to keep at a remarkably affordable price point. The legend of the Cocktail Time really begins in earnest with the SARB065, a Japanese domestic market release that caught on with collectors in an earlier era of watch enthusiasm (the early 2010s) when message boards ruled the day. This particular watch is one that I can remember owning years ago and also being among the chorus of internet commenters recommending it to new enthusiasts when the inevitable question of “what dress watch under $XXX should I buy?” would come up. The new Cocktail Time watches, references SRPK93 and SRE015, are said to be inspired by the city of Tokyo at night, and the “Night-time Tokyo” cocktail created by STAR BAR owner Hisashi Kishi. Kishi is a celebrated creator of craft cockta...
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Not since the Beatles have four individuals teamed up to create something greater than the sum of its parts. While this might be just a tad hyperbolic, the new This Is Our Time Megapod watch in a cross-collaboration between Amstersdam’s Ace Jewelers, Ikepod, Laser 3.14 (an Amsterdam based street artist), and ABC (the multi-disciplinary design studio) is something to pay attention to. It’s not often that so many chefs find themselves in one kitchen – usually, broad collaborations only end in a Frankenstein product of sorts with each brand vying for a spotlight – but that doesn’t seem to be the case here with this particular reference. In fact, the four individual voices in this watch’s design all appear in conversation with one another instead of a shouting match to see who can be noticed first, with Marc Newson’s Ikepod design language tying everything together. Because of this, the This Is Our Time Megapod is a watch that is not only a fun release, but a great success story for other multi-party collabs to look at as inspiration. Okay, enough mixing metaphors here – let’s talk about the watch itself. For those familiar with Ikepod, you’ll already know the Megapod design. Coming in at a whopping 46mm, this is a big boy, but benefits from a lugless design making it a relatively easy wear despite its size. Additionally, the pared-down use of color makes it a subtle, albeit noticeable, design choice. The black dial and red lettering only enhance the re...
Many of De Bethune’s watches reveal master watchmaker Denis Flageollet’s passion for outer space. Who could forget his interplanetary delta-shaped spaceship known as the Dream Watch 5 or his heat-blued titanium models that evoke the mystery of our cosmos? Flageollet is also drawn to extraterrestrial materials like iron meteorites, particularly fragments of the famous Muonionalusta […]
A new twist on (or off) the bezel.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the second part in the new series from Andrew Canter, the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this installment, Andrew examines the invention of the balance spring, a watchmaking advancement that not only charted a path for the watch industry, but can be said to have legitimately changed the world, enabling accurate, reliable, and portable timekeeping for the first time in human history. Who actually invented it, though, is still a matter of some debate, even after 350 years. You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. Prior to the Balance Spring Early watches were powered by a verge escapement which was the same type of movement used in the early clocks. The verge is the earliest known type of mechanical escapement that controlled its rate by allowing the gear train to advance at regular intervals or ‘ticks’. Verge escapements were used from the late 13th century until the mid-19th century in clocks and pocket watches. Drawing of a verge escapement (bottom) and balance wheel (top) from an early pocket watch from an encyclopaedia c.1820 In the earliest watches a plain wheel, known as the balance, was used to control the rate of going of the mechanism. There wasn’t a consistent restoring force (such as a fusee), so consequently, its period of oscillation and, hence, the rate of the timekeeper were dependent on the driving force. Oval verge escapement watch movement by William Petit, Londo...
Fratello
Last month, the Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified pilot’s watch leaked on social media. Normally, we don’t respond to leaks or rumors, but the number of questions we received about this watch was (and still is) getting out of hand. At least for now, this new Omega Speedmaster pilot’s watch is only available to US military […] Visit Under The Radar: The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.
Deployant
Last week, TAG Heuer releases a new instalment to their Monaco Chronograph model lineup with a Racing Green version. Release details and commentary.
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