Quill & Pad
Garrick Regulator MK II: A British Revolution
With the Regulator MK II you can see the development that Garrick has been through in just five short years. Regulator MK II is not an evolution but a revolution!
Quill & Pad
With the Regulator MK II you can see the development that Garrick has been through in just five short years. Regulator MK II is not an evolution but a revolution!
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...
Fratello
You may have missed it, but last week would have marked Clive Cussler’s 93rd birthday. The famous adventure author wrote over 80 books and sold over 100,000,000 copies before passing away in 2020. Both Cussler and Dirk Pitt, his most famous protagonist, were known to wear Doxa watches. This spawned a fruitful relationship with the […] Visit Introducing: The Second Version Of The Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler to read the full article.
Revolution
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) first unveiled the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in 2016, in full-sized 41 mm format. It’s a technically interesting take on the brand’s signature luxury-sports watch. While it is a time-only watch, the skeletonised movement sports a pair of mirrored, superimposed balance wheels and hairsprings. Though already available in 37 mm with a sparkly “frosted” case or entirely gem-set, the 37 mm model wasn’t offered in the classic Royal Oak finish. Now the movement makes its debut in a compact 37 mm case in the traditional brushed-and-polished finish. It’s available in either pink or white gold with the open-worked movement colour-matched to the case metal. Initial thoughts The Double Balance Wheel model is something of a halo model for the Royal Oak range. Though it is not complicated in the functional sense, it is equipped with an interesting feature that theoretically contributes to chronometry. Add to that the distinctive aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, and the result is a watch that is classical Royal Oak in design yet more sophisticated in technical terms. The original 41 mm model, however, was fairly large, and the angular form of the Royal Oak accentuated the size. The original 37 mm models were extravagant and perhaps too over-the-top for everyday wear. The new pair is easily more wearable and should appeal to a wider audience. The new models are each priced at US$98,100, which is comparable to the earlier versions...
Fratello
Please, come closer. It’s worth it. When you do, you can find that the movement inside the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium comprises 194 parts and features no fewer than 16 types of manual finishing. This results in a sophisticated and impressive watch that is both complicated and minimalistic; indeed, it is a paradox in […] Visit Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
This past weekend marked the 55th anniversary of the moon landing, unquestionably one of the greatest achievements in the history of humanity. When Neil Armstrong set foot on the lunar surface, it changed the world forever. We all know the story of Omega, the Speedmaster, and how that chronograph became the “moonwatch,” but there are plenty of other brands and watches that have attempted to jump on the moon landing and NASA bandwagon in some way. Some of these are successful, some of them are not. But one series of releases that I’ve always thought of as genuinely pretty charming are G-SHOCK’s NASA themed watches, the fifth iteration of which was recently unveiled. I think one of the reasons these watches work is because you could argue that NASA and G-SHOCK are organizations that share a certain ethos of problem solving rooted in science. NASA, of course, is in the business of solving problems related to the foundations of physics. The fundamental challenge of getting to the moon, after all, is escaping the earth’s gravity. There’s no moonshot if you can’t get out of low earth orbit. G-SHOCK, on the other hand, has a far more niche interest: creating the most indestructible, shock resistant watch possible. Through materials research and a lot of trial and error, they’ve been the kings of tough watches for decades. The new GW6900-NASA241 takes design inspiration from an unusual but appropriate source: old-school Casio calculators. You can imagine that a...
Hodinkee
It took four years to get a second [RE]Master watch from AP and the result has been divisive. But a watch like this doesn't come from nowhere. Mark and Tony unpack it all in this two-part story.
Hodinkee
Now that the hype is mostly gone, it's not a bad time to grab a slice.
Monochrome
Founded by Gautier Massonneau, French brand Trilobe abandons the conventional approach of displaying time with central hands. Instead, Trilobe inverts the formula and sets time in motion with counterclockwise rotating discs for the hours, minutes and seconds indicated by static trefoil pointers. Trilobe’s first collection, Les Matinaux, bears the name of a René Char poetry […]
Worn & Wound
I’ve never been to Venice, so I’m ill equipped to comment on how accurate the representation of St. Mark’s Square is on the dial of the new Venezianico Redentore Bellanotte, perhaps the brand’s most ambitious watch to date. What I am prepared to say, however, is that the new watch is impressive, charming, and full of little surprising details. And while it’s ultimately not a watch I’d personally wear day to day, it’s full of individual elements that I really love, and I’ve come away from it genuinely impressed at what Venezianico is capable of producing at what frankly feels like a made up price point. The fact that this watch comes in at under $1,000 is honestly kind of insane. Let’s back up a bit, though, because Venezianico is a brand that’s still new enough and small enough that they might require an old-fashioned introduction before we get to the watch at hand. As you may have guessed, Venezianico is an Italian brand, founded by brothers Alberto and Alessandro Morelli in 2017. They have a varied collection that includes watches across sport and dress categories, but they’re tied together by design elements inspired by the city of Venice, filtered through a modern design sensibility with little touches of classicism thrown in. The brand prides itself on its engineering acumen and has experimented quite liberally with materials, finding interesting uses for forged carbon, tungsten, mother-of-pearl, and aventurine in watches where you wouldn’t n...
Hodinkee
From a penchant for retro revival flair to new material experimentations for the Chronomaster Sport and beyond – Zenith contains multitudes.
Worn & Wound
At Worn & Wound, we are not typically drawn to watches with extravagant diamond bezels and dials. However, we have stumbled upon something truly unique and special that we are confident will pique your interest, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll in 39mm. This watch not only stands out due to its distinct design but also features a dial made of chrysocolla stone, a material rarely used in the world of watchmaking. In fact, the only other commercially produced watch we found that used this material was a discontinued Shinola Birdy lady’s quartz watch. An atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef, island, or chain of islands around a body of water called a lagoon. Many people associate the word “lagoon” with images of Gilligan’s Island-a small beach with crystal-clear turquoise water. That is the inspiration for this watch. Each dial is crafted from hand-cut natural stone, ensuring each one is unique, so the paradise depicted by its breathtaking mix of blue, turquoise, brown, and black is exclusively yours. So, what is chrysocolla? Chrysocolla is a mineral that belongs to the silicate mineral group. It is often found in association with other secondary copper minerals such as malachite, azurite, and cuprite. Chrysocolla is known for its vibrant blue-green or green color, reminiscent of turquoise. It is named after the Greek words “chrysos,” meaning gold, and “kolla,” meaning glue, due to its historical use as a flux in soldering gold. It is not considered a rare gemston...
Fratello
A little over a year ago, Lebond Watches unveiled its inaugural Siza model to the public. The Barcelonian brand works with famous architects to create each one’s take on a watch. After world-famous architect Álvaro Siza was the first to do so, the brand’s second effort debuted earlier this year. This time, Lebond founder Asier […] Visit Hands-On With The Well-Balanced Lebond Souto Moura to read the full article.
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin introduces a new Overseas Tourbillon variant, this time in titanium, with the collection's iconic lacquered blue dial.
Monochrome
A rather discreet Swiss brand, Delma was founded in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town. Following a takeover led by Ulrich Wüthrich in 1966, the company was renamed Delma Watch Ltd. This year, as you’d expect, is an […]
Time+Tide
Devised by the wonderfully twisted mind of Andrew McUtchen, THE SICKNESS is a card game for watch addicts.The post Cards Against Humanity, but for watches? Zach & Scarlett play THE SICKNESS appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
There’s much to say about the Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Auto Titanium, now available in a gray and yellow colorway. You get an awful lot of watch in the physical sense with a polarizing design that leaves plenty of room for debate. And there’s the more glamorous side of the watch that represents its character […] Visit A Monday Morning With A Hollywood Movie Star - The Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Auto Titanium to read the full article.
Time+Tide
What does the ultimate tool watch need? French brand Neotype thinks it's cracked the code.The post Could the French Neotype LM02 Type C be the ultimate multipurpose tool watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Technically, this F.P. Journe watch is called the “Chronomètre Optimum Black Label,” but it should be called the “Ultimate.” That’s how much Tim Mosso reveres and admires a timepiece Journe himself describes as the most accurate mechanical watch he knows how to construct.
Monochrome
When TAG Heuer released its Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in 2016, it created a sensation on the watch market. It was not because of its double complications or its imposing 45mm case and skeletonised dial but because it featured an in-house integrated chronograph movement with a tourbillon regulator (Heuer 02T) and a hyper-aggressive price tag of […]
Fratello
It’s summertime, and the heat is on! Well, depending on where you live, perhaps the heat hasn’t shown up yet, but we trust that it’s coming. With that, it’s time for each of us at Fratello to name the best summer watches at three different price points. I’m on board with some oddball picks that […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Mike’s Picks From Citizen, Panerai, And Rolex to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The IWC Ingenieur is, in my opinion, one of Gerald Genta’s most underrated designs. But does it hold up compared to some of his most iconic pieces? Let’s find out! What We Love: Breathtaking design Moulds perfectly onto my wrist Genta heritage, but feels unique What We Don’t: A micro-adjust butterfly clasp would be nice Would love a display back Would be nice to have a COSC movement Final Score: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8/10 IWC is a watch brand that for me personally, I hadn’t really done a deep dive into before. I feel that it is a brand that if you know, you know, and once you get into the brand, many people are hooked. But when I joined Watch Advice, I began to delve deeper into the industry and watchmaking itself. To my surprise (and nobody else’s), I discovered that IWC had contributed much more to horology than I had ever cared to know before. This and the fact that the guys visited the Manufacture in Schaffhausen in April, and regaled me of their adventures there! The giant perpetual calendar movement on the wall in the entry of the IWC Manufacture in Schaffhausen which we visited earlier this year before Watches & Wonders 2024 Founded in 1868 by Bostonian watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones, the International Watch Company found its roots during Jones’ time in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. From there, they would combine American manufacturing with Swiss craftsmanship to produce high-quality timepiece...
SJX Watches
Almost a dress watch done in sci-fi style, the most compact version of De Bethune’s trademark model gained a striking new look this year with the DB28xs Purple Rain. Clad entirely in purple – or more accurately, titanium heat treated to purple – the DB28xs Purple Rain is distinctive and striking because of its sheer colour. Though the colour is novel for De Bethune, the watch incorporates many of the brand’s signature design elements, including a “starry sky” dial and the DB2005 movement with a proprietary titanium and white gold balance wheel. Initial thoughts De Bethune didn’t invented flame-blued titanium, but the material has become something of the brand’s signature. It has been used extensively across its product line, arguably so much that it’s not as novel as it was. De Bethune later tried titanium heated to a bronze-gold finish, but that doesn’t have the vivid hue of blue. Titanium that’s been flamed to purple, however, is as vivid as blue. And the finish is still fairly unique, since it has only been applied to the DB28xs Purple Rain as well as a handful of one-off creations. As a result, while the Purple Rain is only a colour variation of an existing model, it is usually compelling because it is both different and striking. Because it’s essentially the same material as blued titanium, purple titanium will likely have the same durability. Like the blued finish, the purple is actually a thin oxide layer on the titanium that’s created by t...
Fratello
The Casio G-Shock GA-2100 series became a fan favorite immediately after its introduction and a staple of the collection soon after that. But despite it being one of the defining model lines in the G-Shock collection, we had not seen a premium MR-G version since the introduction of the “CasiOak” silhouette in 2019. That wait […] Visit Hands-On With The Impressive Casio G-Shock MRG-B2100B-1A to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
As a watch enthusiast, how frequently do you gaze at your watch and smile? What if your timepiece could return the gesture? From the renowned interior architect Alain Silberstein, in collaboration with Louis Erard, comes the Smile-Day, a watch that quite literally smiles back. Instead of showing the days of the week, this unique piece depicts various smiley faces along with the date. As a watch enthusiast, how frequently do you gaze at your watch and smile? What if your timepiece could return the gesture? From the renowned interior architect Alain Silberstein, in collaboration with Louis Erard, comes the Smile-Day, a watch that quite literally smiles back. Instead of showing the days of the week, this unique piece depicts various smiley faces along with the date. The post The Roundup: A Watch That Smiles Back, A Diver That Will Have You Spinning, and More appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
What is lug-to-lug, and why does it matter? Zach explores the idea, and gives some examples.The post Watches that prove lug-to-lug is the most important measurement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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