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A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication.  Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...

How To (And Not To) Buy Into A Watch Bubble - Reprise Quill & Pad
Ming Jul 13, 2023

How To (And Not To) Buy Into A Watch Bubble - Reprise

Some think that a rapidly soaring price is proof of a watch bubble. They could be right. Or not. Financial bubbles are tough to identify when they’re forming. They’re even more difficult to declare finished as prices collapse. Financial expert Chris Malburg shares a few tips about recognizing and navigating a watch bubble, especially if you feel the need to buy during it.

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hits Jul 13, 2023

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph

These are the kinds of midweek surprises I can get on board with. TAG Heuer has revealed a new Carrera Skipper chronograph in the 39mm chassis we saw (and loved) earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. This is a regular production variant of the Carrera that makes excellent use of the sublime Skipper colorway we first saw in the late ‘60s, and most recently in the 2017 limited edition Carrera Skipper for Hodinkee. The color scheme feels right at home in the modern Carrera shoes, with plenty of small details to discover along the way. Best of all, it doesn’t feel like a vintage recreation, it feels purely modern through and through, taking full advantage of the new ‘glassbox’ design of the Carrera.  The latest Carrera sports a range of blue, green, and orange hues in a reflection of the original colorway which made the watch so distinctive. The base dial is a deep blue with contrasting seafoam hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and multicolor minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, which splits the counter into 5 minute segments to more accurately find your position going into the start of a yacht race. The final five minutes, as well as the timing seconds hand, are rendered in orange, denoting their importance to the operation. There is a running seconds hand within a third, almost hidden sub dial appearing at 6 o’clock, which isn’t framed and thus is the same color as the base of the dial. Only the indexes and the hand itself give its position away. The unique new ‘gl...

The new TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges the coveted reference with new Glassbox format Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges Jul 12, 2023

The new TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges the coveted reference with new Glassbox format

Once enough collectors discover a vintage reference, prices can really drive up as their collectability rises. Due to the age of a watch, and how perspective has shifted on how to appropriately maintain or service a watch, the available number of collector-grade condition watches can be rare. One such coveted, historic, and rare watch is … ContinuedThe post The new TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges the coveted reference with new Glassbox format appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ianos Teams up with Chronopassion for a Limited Edition Version of their Mihanikos Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 12, 2023

Ianos Teams up with Chronopassion for a Limited Edition Version of their Mihanikos Dive Watch

Fans of funky and purely creative dive watches will surely remember Ianos, and specifically their Mihanikos dive watch, reviewed here by our own Ed Jelley. It’s one of the more creative divers from a small independent in the micro-brand sphere we can recall, drawing inspiration from brand founder Jacob Hatzidimitriou’s Greek heritage, and the sponge divers of the Greek island of Kalymnos. The latest release from Ianos is a collaboration with Chronopassion, the Paris based watch retailer specializing in high end independents. It turns out Chronopassion owner Laurent Picciotto is an Ianos fan (Jacob spotted his name on the order list for the original run of the Mihanikos), so the seeds of a collaboration have been growing for quite some time. The new limited edition seeks to give the Mihanikos some additional contemporary design notes, with colors inspired by the City of Light. Fans of the original Mihanikos will immediately recognize that the new limited edition keeps the original design of the watch, but changes up the color considerably for a very different impression. Instead of a dark blue dial, we get a slate gray combined with jet black lume filled hands. We still get the signature sterile bezel (made from a single piece of steel) with the ultra fine texture that makes this watch so distinctive. One of the fun things about the Mihanikos is how every element of the watch ties back to the long history of Greek diving culture. The visual impression of the case and be...

Longines Returns to the Flagship and Adds a Moonphase Worn & Wound
Longines Returns Jul 12, 2023

Longines Returns to the Flagship and Adds a Moonphase

As watch names go, I’ve always thought “Flagship” was a pretty good one. Every brand, I think, strives to have a watch they can comfortably refer to as a flagship model, and Longines, beginning in the late 1950s, went ahead and took a clever shortcut by naming their line of elegant dress watches the Flagship. It makes a lot of sense if you step back and think about it. A brand’s flagship model should be something that defines them – the type of watch that you conjure in your mind’s eye when you think about the brand. Longines of course has a heritage with a ton of variety, making watches in every conceivable genre over the years, but I think it’s fair to say a watch with a certain casual elegance and is really their sweet spot, and the Flagship Heritage models (first introduced in 2017) do a great job of reminding us of what the brand has always excelled at. For their latest release, they’ve returned to the Flagship Heritage concept with three new watches that build on the previous executions, this time with a classic complication included.  The original Flagship Heritage releases of six years ago were lessons in classic understatement – watches that were well considered, beautiful, and completely competent, but not flashy, attention seeking, or attempting to jump on any particular trend. The new Flagship Heritage models are very much made with that same sensibility, but include a moonphase complication, further tying them to watches they’re based on f...

Behind-the-Scenes with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Anniversary Model Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Jul 12, 2023

Behind-the-Scenes with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Anniversary Model

When the Worn & Wound team was asked to create a video production for the new Citizen 50th Anniversary Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer, we were completely stoked as we were such big fans of the original. Our vision aligned with Citizen on this project making for a solid collaboration for this fun revival. One of our favorite aspects of the shoot was demonstrating the watch on both a male and female wrist. Our female model certainly rocked the Tsuno Chrono with style and grace! If you’re not familiar with the origin, this piece was inspired by the original Citizen Bullhead from 1973, the uncommon chronograph features a 45mm two-tone stainless steel case secured by a sleek brown leather strap. Take a look at our behind the scenes video below to see how our amazing team put together this big launch. When the Worn & Wound team was asked to create a video production for the new Citizen 50th Anniversary Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer, we were completely stoked as we were such big fans of the original. Our vision aligned with Citizen on this project making for a solid collaboration for this fun revival. One of our favorite aspects of the shoot was demonstrating the watch on both a male and female wrist. Our female model certainly rocked the Tsuno Chrono with style and grace! If you’re not familiar with the origin, this piece was inspired by the original Citizen Bullhead from 1973, the uncommon chronograph features a 45mm two-tone stainless steel case secured by a sleek brown leath...

Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear Time+Tide
Breitling makes Jul 12, 2023

Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear

With all of the streaming platforms at our disposal, there is a fair bit of comfort-food garbage shows for us all to guiltily binge. But, when people ask me what is a good show, a genuinely good show, to watch, FX on Hulu’s The Bear is definitely at the top of the list. For many … ContinuedThe post Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Biver’s Creation for Only Watch 2023: A Repeater with No Hands SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Jul 12, 2023

Biver’s Creation for Only Watch 2023: A Repeater with No Hands

Shortly after the release of their initial timepiece, the Carillon Tourbillon, Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre are making their debut at Only Watch with the Catharsis. A bold take on the chiming watch, this unique piece has no hands on the dial, but indicates the time with the carillon minute repeater. The dial is instead decorated with a mixture of gemstones, semi-precious stone marquetry, and guilloché to create an abstract scene depicting the Moon over a seascape. Inside is a variant of the movement as Biver’s first watch, but with an hour hand on the reverse. Initial thoughts  The father-and-son duo behind Biver have to be commended for a daring debut at Only Watch, even though the watch will no doubt be polarising. They have gone extremely conceptual with the Catharsis. The idea of creating a watch with no visible way of telling the time is nothing new, having been done recently by H. Moser & Cie. in 2019 and earlier by Haldimann and Romain Jerome. However, the Catharsis aims to make a statement and chart a course for this newly minted independent brand. The aesthetics of original Biver repeater model were mixed, so this watch actually addresses that issue in a weird yet logical manner. The visual focus of the watch is the dial, which is not really a dial but a canvas for elaborate decoration. The 89 sapphires that make up the waves have been invisibly set and create a pleasing effect alongside the meteorite moon, silver obsidian sky and mother of pearl stars...

Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan 2026 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Jul 12, 2023

Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan 2026

Patek Philippe recently concluded its biggest Watch Art Grand Exhibition to date with the Tokyo exhibition. The event in the Japanese capital showcased almost 500 timepieces, along with limited editions and Rare Handcrafts created especially for the event, which were seen by some 60,000 visitors at the end of its two-week run in Shinjuku. Now the event will return to Europe in October 2026, taking place in Milan, the commercial capital of a country that was historically a great consumer of Patek Philippe wristwatches. The Rare Handcrafts Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-025 “Snow-Covered Landscape” made for Watch Art Tokyo 2023 The Milan exhibition will be the seventh Watch Art exhibition after Dubai (2012), Munich (2013), London (2015), New York (2017), Singapore (2019), and Tokyo (2023). Originally planned for 2025 but later rescheduled, the Milan event will take place October 2-18, 2026. It will be open to the public at no charge. More details will be provided in due time. Update August 15, 2025: Dates of exhibition corrected.

Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph - A Modern Classic! WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – Jul 12, 2023

Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph - A Modern Classic!

Raymond Weil recently released their new limited edition Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph, and as the official launch partner, we’ve had the pleasure of testing it out over the past couple of weeks. Here’s the results… What We Love Vintage StylingThe multi-faceted dialFlyback functionality What We Don’t Stiff strap and clasp designNo date windowOverhanging lug design Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8/10 Initial Thoughts Sitting in a café in Sydney a few weeks ago, my colleague and I laid eyes on the the Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph for the first time. We knew they were releasing a new pilots watch to add to the Freelancer Chronograph line, and having only seen the press pics, in person it looked the goods, especially the dial. Playing around with it for a little while, it seemed solid and well done, and being a limited edition of just 400, with a price point of AUD $6,995 for a good-looking flyback chronograph that was well built, seemed fair to us based on the competition and price points out there now. And if you missed our article on the release of this watch, before you dive into this review, check out all the details with more live pics here. The Design The design of the new Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph is quite multifaceted, to say the least. Raymond Weil has used different design cues and inspiration to craft the watch to look and feel vintage, but it is anything but. The...

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 Dakar introduces a new material to watchmaking Time+Tide
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 Dakar Jul 12, 2023

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 Dakar introduces a new material to watchmaking

There’s an old adage in motorsport that to finish first, first you have to finish. In no event is that truer than the Dakar Rally - a gruelling drive through desert dunes and scorching heat. An average of 62% participants don’t make it to the end of the rally, with amateurs and professionals alike succumbing … ContinuedThe post The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 Dakar introduces a new material to watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in Chicago This Weekend… Worn & Wound
Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Jul 11, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in Chicago This Weekend…

Now in its ninth year, and second in Chicago, the Windup Watch Fair is quickly becoming a fixture of the Chicago watch community. This weekend, enthusiasts, collectors, and newbies alike will gather to shop and talk watches-and this year, there are even more events to participate in! Not only are there over 60 brands to check out at the Fair, as well as a full slate of FREE panels and programming. Read through the full rundown of special events below, but first, let’s remind everyone of the basics. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support of our presenting partners and, most importantly, our Lead Sponsors. This year’s Lead Sponsors include Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and Zodiac. All of these brands will have a significant presence within the Fair, with dynamic booth spaces and special events. Throughout the days, attendees can expect the latest watch releases, a live auction, a full cash bar, dedicated lounge spaces, outdoor space, as well as an on-site watchmaker to adjust and swap straps for your newest or favorite collection pieces. We’re beyond excited to be joined by over 60 presenting brands this year. The full roster of brands includes: And as a reminder, the event location and hours are as follows: Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 14: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Now, ont...

Yema Urban Traveller Joins Chorus of Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch Releases Worn & Wound
Yema Urban Traveller Joins Chorus Jul 11, 2023

Yema Urban Traveller Joins Chorus of Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch Releases

Yema is fleshing out their young Traveller collection, which made its debut just last year, with a new family of integrated bracelet sport watches called the Urban Traveller. The new family is on-trend with a design that features the now familiar hallmarks of the genre, such as a flat link bracelet that integrates with the case, a flat octagonal mid case with single piece bezel, and a textured dial. Check, check, and check. The Urban Traveller does take a unique approach in a few ways, however, and more options of a good thing is, well, a good thing.  Yema is a French brand that was founded in 1948, with an increasing selection of in-house labeled movements, which we’ve discussed before launched, somewhat curiously, via Kickstarter. The Traveller collection of watches have been no exception, with the template for the Urban Traveller, called the Wristmaster Traveller, hitting funded status in late 2022. That watch, which recalled Yema’s heritage with the use of the Wristmaster label, featured a colorful selection of in-house ultra-thin micro-rotor movements, a playful choice that set that watch apart from other integrated sport watches. The Urban Traveller takes a more direct approach to the design, using Yema’s YEMA2000 movement, which is around 80% in-house, instead of the colorful micro-rotor movements seen in the Wristmaster Traveller. This change means a slightly thicker case and a closed caseback, as well as a dramatic reduction in pricing. The ultra-thin Wrist...