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Czapek released two new models in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer - we explain the complication of the new Place Vendôme Complicité.

Commencing in early October, the autumn auction season begins with Sotheby’s Important Watches I, a catalogue of 205 lots that will be sold on October 7 in Hong Kong. The auction includes artisanal timepieces, examples of independent watchmaking creativity, and exceptional complications. Here, we present eight notable complications including some unsurprising, six-figure picks like a Patek Philippe ref. 5004R with a special-order dial and a Rolex ref. 6062 “Stelline” from the original Japanese owner. But the list includes some that may fly under the radar but deserve recognition, such as the travel-ready Richard Mille RM62-01 (albeit conceived for flying private) and an impressive Patek Philippe ref. 942 grand complication pocket watch that includes a grande and petite sonnerie, putting it in the top rank of all pocket watches. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 2166: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar ref. 345.056E  The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has effortlessly fuses the renowned Lange 1 design with a complex movement, conspicuously excluding the tourbillon found in its larger counterpart. At launch, the watch was available in two guises: pink gold with a grey dial or the more popular, limited edition white gold with a “salmon” (pink gold) dial, as we see here.  In contrast to conventional calendars that employ sub-dials, the Lange 1 perpetual calendar sea...

So, what does a squillion dollar tequila taste like? The color is a deep gold/bronze, not dissimilar to an aged rum. The nose is both powerful and mellow, with dried fruits, orange rind, cinnamon, hints of nutmeg, honey, even cassis and Christmas cake. The palate is quite stunning, as smooth and seductive as one could imagine.

When we first featured at the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor right after it was unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023, it was clear that the model had struck a chord among almost those who had the pleasure to see it in the metal. The design is distinctively Cartier in style, slightly whimsical, yet stands apart from almost everything else in the brand’s catalogue.  Cartier’s legacy as a renowned jeweller is indisputable, and this timepiece is a fusion of its knowledge in jewellery and watches, with a good dose of the traditional Cartier style. From the lacquer case inlays to the artful skeletonisation, the result is a balanced face that is entirely original.  Key takeaways The design is an ideal combination of a contemporary, tasteful skeleton movement with the historical Santos case design The plane micro-rotor is just right in size, neither too big nor too small, and adds just the right amount of whimsy without being gimmicky The large, as opposed to XL, case is ideal for the movement, but some might find it too compact As it is with all Cartier skeleton movements, the Etachron regulator feels out of place Initial thoughts I usually take a loupe to a watch for a closer look, and when I did so with the Santos skeleton the movement’s design shone through. The plates and bridges of the brand-new cal. 9629 MC are both structural and add to the aesthetic brilliance of this piece. Though Cartier has long made skeleton watches a hallmark of its line-up, the cal. 9629 M...

The styles of the 1980s are possibly the most revered through rose-tinted glasses, with nostalgia contributing to the global success of shows like Stranger Things and endless Sci-Fi franchises. It’s also a praised era of motorsports, with turbocharged cars heralding heroes like Alain Prost and Ayrton Senna. As a brand with racing in their DNA, … ContinuedThe post The Depancel Serie-R 80s revels in neon brashness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

With 175 attendees from 17 countries, RollieFest is about more than just rare Rolex; it's also about being together with friends.

The story of American watchmaking is long, complex, and undertold. It’s regrettably easy to consign the period of this country’s history as a global titan in watch production to an appendix in the greater history of watchmaking writ large. But the fact remains that the United States, in the 19th century and well into the 20th, produced millions of timepieces at an incredible pace, developing manufacturing technologies that would scale and improve both here and abroad. We don’t make watches at such a scale anymore, but there is a growing movement in the American watchmaking space that looks to that period as inspiration, and as a reminder that if it can happen once, it can happen again. The Vortic Watch Company is one of the key players in a new age of watchmaking in America, and they’ve just announced a major step forward that redefines what the company does, and where it might be heading in the future.  I have always thought of Vortic as one of the bedrock companies in the burgeoning microbrand space. They are a mainstay at Windup Watch Fairs, and carry many of the hallmarks of the most successful and well established microbrands. The watches are original and purely their own thing, their team is accessible, and the identity of the brand itself is well considered and established. But it would be incorrect to think of them as purely part of the pack, or even as part of an upper tier of the pack given their longevity and success. They occupy a truly unique niche th...

Iced-out. Cool. Pick your pun, and let's dive deep into these new Seiko dials.

Since its completion in 1930, the Eastern Columbia Building has long been a symbol of the Art Deco movement and the timeless elegance that period in architecture came to represent. Located in downtown Los Angeles, this historic landmark is characterized by its intricate terracotta facade adorned with colorful geometric patterns and stunning clock tower, which is crowned by a rotating neon clock that has become a symbol of the building. In this way, the building hasn’t just become a symbol of Los Angeles’ history of prosperity and beauty, but of the bygone elegance that still inspires brands today, nearly a century later. One such brand is Bremoir. Having previously designed their Lexington based on the Chrysler Building, Bremoir has a longstanding history of being inspired by the golden age of Art Deco. Now, with the release of their limited-edition Eastern model, we are seeing a truly delightful interpretation of the Los Angeles landmark. Released today, the first color in the new Eastern collection is called Pacific. Aptly named, the dial is tonally bright blue (similar to the terracotta of the building’s facade) and navy (a nod to the Pacific Ocean), handsomely balanced within a stainless steel case and complemented by the brown leather strap. The two tones of the dial are accentuated by gold accents for the hands, numerals, and hour markers. It is here that we see the small details which resonate with the Art Deco design of the Eastern Columbia Building. You have...

The 8171, one of Rolex's most complicated and strange creations, has become a cornerstone of collecting and community building – almost in spite of itself.

The green-dialled Cartier Santos introduced at Watches & Wonders 2023 makes for a dynamic wrist thanks to its chameleonic looks.The post The surprisingly colour-changing Cartier Santos in green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It takes a certain courage and determination to start a watch brand. One has to articulate his or her vision into three-dimensional, complex, and mechanical objects. I sometimes struggle to transfer thoughts and ideas about watches to paper, let alone deal with prototypes, source components, and market the final product. In order to get our attention, one must also offer something that is familiar while being different, well-made but not too expensive. If the watch looks too much like something we’ve seen before, we tend to shoot it down. If it comes attached to a price tag orbiting that of fashion watches, we frown at it. So, perhaps we should celebrate the efforts brands put out on an almost daily basis to bring us new watches, as many of us wouldn’t be able to do the same.  In that spirit, today we’re going to take a look at the second model from a young French brand called Manime. The model in question is La Fidèle (“The Loyal One” in French) which is the founder’s take on the popular genre of sport watches with integrated bracelets.  Manime was founded in 2020 by Edouard Paris, a countryman based out of Thailand. I say countryman because I was born and raised in France, a country which was put back on the horological map ten years ago thanks to popular brands in the likes of Baltic, Serica, Beaubleu and Yema. I may (obviously) be biased here but I believe that French watches come with a certain aesthetic that leans strongly towards elegance and sobriety...

Art Deco is alive.

Bell & Ross releases a new addition to their instrument lineup with the new BR 03 Gyrocompass: a time only watch in a black ceramic case.

The Zenith Defy Revival Shadow is the first of the collection to undergo a more modern makeover in microblasted titanium.The post The Zenith Defy Revival Shadow brings modern noir to a vintage design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

For Ken Gargett, the Veuve Clicquot 2012 La Grande Dame is a special champagne. It walks the tightrope between dense and coiled power with delicacy, finesse, and elegance. Great intensity, finally balanced acidity, early complexity, and it is still wonderfully youthful with a long future ahead of it. But what interesting story lies behind this fantastic champagne?

A new Eco-Drive movement that automatically adjusts the moonphase every day.

The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver gets a true GMT upgrade, courtesy of Miyota movement.The post Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

He'd like to be, under the sea, with Aquanaut on on his wrist, in the shade. Instead, The Beatles drummer had it on as he was inducted into the HOF.

In just five years, Norqain has established a unique identity as an independent Swiss watchmaker with a special focus on ruggedness and sustainability. With models named “Independence”, “Adventure”, and “Freedom”, Norqain represents individualism with a sense of responsibility. Now for the third time they have partnered with animal sanctuary founder Dean Schneider to create a limited edition watch: The Wild ONE Hakuna Mipaka in brown. Young Swiss financier-turned-conservationist Dean Schneider has managed the Hakuna Mipaka (Swahili for “No Limits”) wildlife sanctuary in South Africa since 2017. The 400-hectare haven has become a refuge for animals like King Dexter, a lion whose upbringing has been well-documented on social media. It is also home to thousands of animals such as giraffes, zebras, and various reptiles. Hakuna Mipaka is not open to the public and therefore relies on donations and other forms of support. Like the most recent collaboration with Dean Schneider, this new watch is part of the Independence Wild ONE collection. Production of this line is entirely animal-free, a north star for Norqain and the rest of its products. The case (42mm x 12.3mm x 49.4mm) is made of NORTEQ, a custom carbon composite that sandwiches a rubber shock absorber integrated with sand from Schneider’s North African oasis. Inside is the manufacture caliber NN20/1 (manufactured by Kenissi) housed in a titanium enclosure. On the sapphire caseback is a special engraving ...

At this point in my watch collecting journey, most of my purchases are considered. They are often the result of months, or even years, of planning, or simply waiting until the planets align and the rarest of pieces comes up for sale. However, I’m gleeful to see that sometimes I can still be blindsided by a new release and find that my fingers have entered my card details even before my brain has realized what’s happening. That’s how the Polycarbon ‘Sketch’ from D1 Milano ended up in my watch box. It’s cheap and cheerful, but is it good value? After a close examination, I’m still happy. Looking at D1 Milano’s online catalog of watches, most play heavily on the current integrated-bracelet sports watch trend, and it would be fair to say that some models are influenced rather heavily by other luxury watches. The Polycarbon series, for example, features an 8-sided bezel and overall vibe that definitely brings a specific, more expensive, watch to mind. What has drawn me to this particular variant though, is not the likeness it bears to anything else, but the immediate impact it has and individuality it displays. It just so happens that the case, bezel and bracelet lines on show here, whether original or not, make a great canvas for the sketch effect that D1 Milano has embellished it with. $195 Hands-On: the D1 Milano Polycarbon Sketch Case Polycarbonate, soft-touch coating Movement Seiko VJ21 Dial Matte black Lume None Lens Mineral Strap Polycarbonate, soft-touch...

Retired NFL quarterback Tom Brady's watches are often in the news. Take a look at all the fun timepieces he's adding to his collection.The post Tom Brady continues on an absolute tear with his exponentially growing watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Last month, we told you about a new chronograph from Glashütte Original that was funky, off the beaten path, and full of color. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is a true enthusiast’s piece, with an uncommon movement, case shape, and feature set. That said, if your tastes veer toward the more classic and refined side of the spectrum, the Seventies Chronograph might not be your cup of tea. If that’s the case, all you need to do is hop in the Glashütte Original time machine, and head back just a decade to sample their Sixties Chronograph, a more traditional execution that gives up nothing in the areas of meticulous finishing and execution that Glashütte Original is well known for. The latest version of the Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition is as clean and classic as it gets, and would make a nice alternative to the Seventies Chrono, showing off the many facets of the brand behind it.  The watches in Glashütte’s Sixties inspired collections tend to have very dramatic, often brightly colored, textured dials. For this release, we get a look that’s about as subdued as this style of dial can get, with a stone-gray tone finished with a dégradé effect that makes the color appear darker at the dial’s perimeter and lighter closer to the center. Glashütte has always maintained that the embossed textures of these dials combined with bright colors is a tribute to the “flower power” look of the 1960s, and there is certainly something vaguely psychedelic abou...