Latest watch news · Page 82

What is Ressence if not one of the most recognisable identities in independent watchmaking? From the crownless Type 3 (check out the recent Type 3 Marc Newson) to the oil-filled Type 5, Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens has consistently challenged the conventional relationship between display, ergonomics and mechanical watchmaking, leading to the introduction of the Type […]

Field watches and GADA (go anywhere, do anything) pieces sit at the heart of practical watchmaking. They are designed to do everything well without unnecessary fuss and to look good while doing it. For many enthusiasts, this category represents the sweet spot. You get versatility, robustness, and timeless design without drifting into luxury territory. Today, […] Visit What Are 10 Of The Best Field And GADA Watches Under €1,000? to read the full article.

Most of us here at Fratello love vintage watches, but not all of us are comfortable buying and wearing them. Do you wear it, or do you spare it? Damaging a vintage watch can be expensive, but it might also just feel wrong to wear it daily. Can it withstand today’s abuse? Is it still […] Visit Fratello Talks: Vintage Watches — Wear It Or Spare It? to read the full article.

FVF Genève founder Franc Vila has created a unique piece of his flagship tourbillon for a noted European collector of independent and complicated watches who goes by @thedeadwatchsociety on Instagram. The FVF1 Tourbillon “Seven Poets” is a romantic twist on the day complication that assigns a daily reading from one of seven historical poets. Initial thoughts Franc Vila is a man of many passions. His atelier in central Geneva is packed with art, and each piece has a story — I can’t think of anyone better to create a poetry-themed watch. Neither, it seems, could the lucky owner who commissioned the Seven Poets. The watch is fundamentally similar to the standard FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, with its 42.5 mm case, titanium monocoque construction, seven-sided day roller, and flying tourbillon architecture. Even in its basic configuration, the FVF1 is a distinctive offering that relaunched Mr Vila’s career after he parted ways with his eponymous brand. But the Seven Poets is anything but basic. Like the “Today” edition reviewed last year, the Seven Poets deviates from the norms of traditional watchmaking. Instead of indicating the day of the week, the day roller has been repurposed to feature the hand-engraved names of seven poets that are personally meaningful to the owner who commissioned the watch. I liked the conceptual, philosophical statement made by the “Today” edition, and the Seven Poets takes it one step further. This simple change to an indicat...

Citizen reinforces their commitment to yacht racing with a new Promaster Wave Tracker. Release details with pricing and commentary.

Two leading practitioners of fine watchmaking, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet face off at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, Important Watches: Featuring “Kronos: Titans of Time”, “The Eternity” and “The Chronicle” Collections. The catalogue features blue chip high complications such as the Sky Moon Tourbillon, as well as under-appreciated neo-vintage discoveries, and the most striking of this selection doesn’t even chime. Lot 2424 – Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002P-001 While Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon started as a supporting act to the Star Caliber 2000, miniaturising the latter’s planisphere with moon passage and phases, its mindshare has far surpassed its larger sibling. It was Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch when first launched, and the super-watch of the 2000s. Collectors entering the watch world during that time speak of it with the same nostalgia and reverence 2000s kids give to the Bugatti Veyron. The design was rather contemporary for early 2000s Patek Philippe, and looks nothing like its successor, the baroque ref. 6002. At 42 mm in diameter, it was also notably large — the ref. 5016 with which shares most of its movement, was only 36 mm in diameter. It was forward thinking in another way, selling an extremely expensive, astronomical complication as an off-the-rack product, continuing Philippe Stern’s “build it and they will come” attitude that began with the Calibre 89. Patek Philippe’...

The slow drip of Seiko limited editions to celebrate the brand’s 145th anniversary continues with a pair of releases in their Presage collection. The Presage line has long been one of my favorites in the Seiko catalog, and I’ve always felt these watches were a bit slept on compared to sportier watches in the Prospex line. The Presage collection is not just more “dress watch” oriented, but the watches under this banner frequently build on traditional Japanese craft techniques and offer a ton of value. It feels like we’re in a moment where these watches might be prime for a greater appreciation, as enthusiasts are more comfortable than they’ve ever been with smaller cases, exotic dials, and less sport oriented watches in general.  Of the two watches in the Presage line announced recently, the one that sticks in my mind the most is the new HCC007, with an Arita porcelain dial in cobalt blue. We’ve seen a number of Presage releases with porcelain dials over the years, often drawing on the traditional porcelain crafted in Arita for inspiration. This is a great example of the way Seiko incorporates very traditional Japanese craftsmanship into watches that are relatively affordable and don’t skimp at all on aesthetics.  The HCC007’s porcelain dial features a blue glaze in the same color as traditional Arita porcelain, and is the first time this color has been seen in the Presage collection. The dial is constructed with a radiating, sunken center section and an...

What We Know If our ability to value our precious time is a gift, then the simplicity of the Mermont La Parfaite reminds us to slow down and savor it. The debut public model from the new Swiss brand is a study in elevated minimalism. A solo hour hand, polished and hand-finished by master watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, is the centerpiece.  Sculpted and curved with a heart or spade-shaped cutout, the heat-treated, single stainless steel hand has been hand-finished and sits high enough from the dial that it can be observed from multiple angles. It circles the slanted minute track dial once every twelve hours, making precise reading of the time more of a loose, approximate estimate than an exact by-the-second measurement. That's despite the fact that the hand-wound movement is regulated by Delaloye to high accuracy. And that's the point. The pared-down time telling demands one take stock and consider the few, but highly considered design choices from the brand, founded by Swiss-based collector and watch expert Sebastien Bey-Haut, that is produced and assembled in Geneva at Delaloye's facilities. The color-shifting blue dial features a colimaçon sunburst finish, achieved with colored pigments mixed with Zapon varnish. And indeed, seen in person, the colors of the dial can change dramatically depending on the light, from a bright blue to inky navy and even dark purple. The classic slanted minute track is surrounded by printed Breguet-style numerals. While the 'Mermont' brand lo...

For many, an interest in horology is sparked by inheriting a wristwatch or pocket watch from a relative. While my fascination with the hobby instead stems from a spur-of-the-moment purchase at a flea market, I’ve been lucky enough to inherit several timepieces that will always be part of my collection and family. Recently, my grandfather, Raymond Harter, passed away at the age of 81. After his passing, my initial feelings and reaction, of course, centered around the familial sphere––taking time with loved ones to grieve and remember the times we had spent together over the years. As a watch collector, however, there was a part of me that felt he never really left. You see, I had received a 1968 Hamilton Accumatic A-203 with a solid 14K gold case from him years ago, which his father had purchased brand new and passed down to him. Even though we couldn’t chat about the New York Giants and watch SportsCenter together anymore, this Accumatic symbolized to me that those memories and that legacy aren’t going away anytime soon. I had researched this model when I first received it, and was only able to locate one or two blogs about it. There’s truly no better time than now to take a deep dive into the A-203 and learn about the watch that my family will cherish for generations to come. A Brief History of the Hamilton Accumatic Line and the A-203 The Accumatic line was a staple of Hamilton watchmaking for almost two decades, beginning production in 1956 and ceasing by 19...

If there's one brand that remains near and dear to the heart of Hodinkee, it's Universal Genève. In some ways, my own love of watches may not have flourished the way it did without the incredibly broad range of designs and concepts from Universal in that period. Simple chronographs, calendar chronographs, calendar watches, dress watches, oversized Aviator watches, and even convertible watches were all part of the Universal story. It just did SO many things back then, and when it was announced that the House of Brands (the parent company of Breitling, and now Gallet and Universal) would be re-launching it in full force, I wasn't quite sure what to expect. And I think it's fair to say that many felt that way. But Mr. Kern, who led the project along with a great team of young enthusiasts, knew they needed feedback from the long-standing group of collectors to ensure what they made hit all the right notes. So they assembled a group of advisers to give feedback along the way. The group included Mr. Fred Mandelbaum, Mr. Eric Wind, myself, Mr. Alessandro Fanciulli (Mr. A), Mr. Auro Montanari, and many more die-hard Universal lovers. You can see some photos of one of our meet-ups right here, dating back more than two years ago. The advisory board would give notes, and the internal team would process them accordingly – mostly in design details. And in the end, Universal Genève was fully reborn with an astonishingly wide range of watches just last month in Geneva. It includes tw...

To our regular readers, Armin Strom needs no introduction. To those new to watchmaking, let’s say that over the past decade, the independent brand has established itself as one of the (very) few manufacturers to truly master resonance in a wristwatch. The Dual Time GMT Resonance has become one of Armin Strom’s signature platforms, evolving […]

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the head of what's now the largest U.K.-based watch brand, Christopher Ward. Under the direction of Chief Executive Officer Mike France, the Swiss-made, approachable-priced watchmaker has enjoyed outsized growth in recent years, due in part to popular and surprising releases like its Bel Canto chiming watch and its commitment to keeping prices in check. Photo courtesy Christopher Ward.  Now Christopher Ward, which recently overhauled its core Sealander collection, is eyeing an ambitious retail expansion plan in its biggest market, the United States. France lays out the economics and business case for the brand's unique retail approach, powered by deep community relationships built with customers over the past two decades. The ambitions aren't insignificant. From a handful of showrooms now, the company could have as many as 25 to 30 locations in the U.S. alone within half a decade, the CEO says.  He sees Christopher Ward as a brand with the potential to reach £250 million in total annual sales, up from about £50 million today. France expects to hit £100 million in annual sales within three years. He's also refreshingly candid about the threat that U.S. tariffs posed to the business and how the levies forced it to change the way its watches are shipped to and distributed in the country. Tariffs were also a significant drag on financial results in 2025, but the brand is forecasting a rebound in 2026 if import dutie...

Longines pays homage to the brand's celebrated 1959 diving watch with a new release of the Legend Diver 59. With Longines Diver historical references.

After moving on from its space-themed watches, Awake – the French indie brand founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019 – celebrated its fifth anniversary with the Son Mai, a permanent collection built around craftsmanship. The collection, which features richly decorated dials created using the ancient Vietnamese lacquering technique of Son Mai, now grows with the […]

We’ve been following Awake since well before the 2024 introduction of its Sơn Mài collection. The watches, which feature painstakingly layered Vietnamese lacquer over silver leaf, have vaulted the brand into new territory. Each release is greeted with fervor from fans, and the limited editions frequently sell out quickly. Until now, the watches have featured […] Visit Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup to read the full article.

What We Know Awake is launching three new watches today, along with a new visual identity for the young brand. The three references—"Sunset," "Alba," and "Borealis"—take their names and color palettes from celestial phenomena: an ocean sunset, an incandescent dawn, and the Northern Lights, respectively. "Alba" The dials are the story here, and the story behind them is quite fascinating. The process begins in Hanoi, Vietnam, where master lacquerers apply multiple ultra-thin layers of Sơn Mài lacquer—derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree—then meticulously polish each coat to build up the dial's color. Sunset gets pink, violet, and blue.  Alba gets red, yellow, and orange. Borealis gets green and yellow. Once the lacquer work is complete, the dials travel to Italy, where they're handed to the Renzetti family—one of the last workshops in Europe still practicing hand guilloché—who work them on traditional rose and straight-line engine lathes, entirely by hand, for approximately 15 hours per dial. Each groove is unique to the individual artisan and the individual piece. "Sunset" The hands and indices are constructed with a steel cap system finished in polished, brushed, and engraved textures, filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The result is a lume solution that's discreet in daylight but comes alive in the dark, casting a soft halo over the lacquer and guilloché beneath. All of this sits inside a new 38mm stainless steel case, a first for Awake. It fea...

Awake refreshes its excellent Sơn Mài with a newly refined case, and a trio of incredibl, celestially-inspired guilloché dials

The Netherlands is not exactly known as a traditional watchmaking powerhouse. This is a small country of people practical by nature and generally not inclined toward excessive displays of luxury. Over the years, though, several Dutch watch brands have built impressive international reputations. Names like Christiaan van der Klaauw, Grönefeld, and Holthinrichs immediately come to […] Visit Hands-On With The Sero Silver Signature to read the full article.

If you have been following French watchmaking lately, chances are you have come across Charlie Paris already. They have a promising catalogue of everyday mechanical watches that do not get too expensive. The brand’s line-up today covers everything from the sporty and travel-ready Concordia GMT Automatic to more classic designs such as the Initial Collection. […]

When something happened way over half a century ago, it is now time to forgive and embrace. Not to forgive and forget, mind you, but forgive and embrace. With the introduction of the Astron in 1969, Seiko set something in motion that shook the traditional Swiss watch industry to its core. Its existence was in […] Visit “Quartz” Is No Longer A Dirty Word — All Is Forgiven, And It’s Time To Embrace The Battery Or The Solar Cell to read the full article.

When you are a historic watchmaker like Favre Leuba, you can go back to the archives and return with a slice of the past and new ideas. That is exactly what happened with the Deep Blue, the brand’s six-decade-old dive watch known for its crosshair dial and 200m water-resistance. Stylish and genuinely capable at the […]

While we often publish articles in our Industry News section, those are mostly focused on the financial results of Swiss and/or European brands and groups, by looking at major actors such as the Swatch Group, Richemont or LVMH, the exports of Swiss Watches, or estimated rankings by Vontobel and Morgan Stanley/LuxeConsult. What we have never […]

When we write about watches at Fratello, we typically have three levels of engagement with the product. First, we have our basic introduction articles, for which we base our writing solely on press materials, keeping it brief and factual. Second, we have our hands-on reviews, which allow us to spend time with the watch before […] Visit Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este to read the full article.