Skeleton vs openworked
Strictly: a skeleton watch removes material from a standard movement (the bridges and plates are cut away, often by hand). An openworked watch is designed from scratch with the architecture as the visual feature. Most modern "skeleton" watches are actually openworked, but the terms are used interchangeably in marketing. We've kept both on the list.
This list spans the full price range because the skeleton genre has unusually compressed pricing relative to the visual effect: a €600 Tissot Powermatic Skeleton looks impressive next to a €15k AP Code 11.59 RD#3 in a way that doesn't apply to most genres.
Audemars Piguet
15407 · 41mm
Editor's Pick ~€90,000
The reference modern openworked sport watch.
AP Royal Oak Openworked uses the Cal. 3132 designed from scratch as openworked architecture. Anglage, bevels, and Côtes de Genève visible from both sides. The visual reference for the genre.
Modern Unico chronograph movement laid bare.
Hublot Big Bang Unico Skeleton uses the in-house Unico HUB1280 chronograph, openworked. 72-hour reserve, column wheel, vertical clutch. The visible fusion of materials in case + movement is Hublot's identity.
Maurice Lacroix
AI6007 · 42mm
Value ~€2,800
€2,800 openworked integrated-bracelet sport watch.
Maurice Lacroix's Aikon Skeleton uses the in-house ML134 movement, openworked. Integrated bracelet with quick-change system. Among the cheapest legitimate skeleton sport watches.
€600 mechanical skeleton.
No photo
Tissot's skeleton variant of the Powermatic 80 movement. 80-hour reserve, full skeleton dial, motorsport-leaning case design. Sub-€1k mechanical skeleton entry.
Frederique Constant
FC-705 · 40mm
~€3,500
In-house heart-beat openworking.
Frederique Constant's Classic Heart Beat shows the regulator (the 'heart' of the movement) through a partial dial cutout. Cal. FC-705 manufacture. The most accessible Geneva-made manufacture skeleton.
Cartier
WHSA0007 · 39.8×47.5mm
Heritage ~€32,000
Roman-numeral-bridge skeleton.
Cartier Santos Squelette uses the Roman numerals themselves as the movement bridges (a Cartier signature dating to the 1970s skeleton designs). Modern recreation with full hand-finishing. The most architecturally distinct skeleton.
World-record-thin skeleton.
Bulgari's Octo Finissimo Skeleton holds the record for thinnest skeleton automatic at the launch (2018). Cal. BVL 128SK at 2.35mm thin. The case profile is unmistakable.
5 Hz El Primero skeletonised in steel.
Zenith's Defy Skyline Skeleton uses the El Primero 3620SK in a 41mm Defy case with integrated bracelet. 5 Hz beat rate (so 1/10th-second markings on the dial), 60-hour reserve.
€800 partial-skeleton with H-10 movement.
Hamilton's Jazzmaster Open Heart shows the balance wheel through a partial dial cutout. ETA-based H-10 (80-hour reserve). The lower-priced partial-skeleton entry.
Vacheron Constantin
4305V · 41mm
~€55,000
The haute-horlogerie skeleton sport watch.
No photo
Vacheron's Overseas Skeleton uses the in-house Cal. 1120 SQ openworked. Full Geneva Hallmark hand-finishing visible from both sides. The under-€100k haute-horlogerie skeleton sport watch reference.
Honourable mentions
Hublot Big Bang One Click Sang Bleu · SkeletonMaxime Plescia-Büchi geometric skeleton, ~€20k.
Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow · Skeleton€2,500 partial-skeleton moonphase.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked Frosted Gold · 15412Carolina Bucci-design textured-gold skeleton, ~€80k.
How to choose
If money is no object: AP Royal Oak Openworked. If you're a Cartier collector: Santos Squelette. If you want a sub-€1k mechanical skeleton: Tissot Powermatic 80 Skeleton. The skeleton style hub tracks ongoing news.