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New: Zenith Defy 21 Urban Jungle: Hands On Review
Full hands on review of the new Zenith 2021 edition of a ceramic case in a cool urban green to their innovative Defy 21 chronograph collection.
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Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
TAG Heuer (1999), Zenith (1999), Hublot (2008), Bulgari (2011), plus Louis Vuitton in-house and Tiffany & Co. Bernard Arnault\'s Paris-based group.
Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Zenith thread.
The 1969 36,000 vph automatic chronograph saved from the quartz crisis by Charles Vermot.
Deployant
Full hands on review of the new Zenith 2021 edition of a ceramic case in a cool urban green to their innovative Defy 21 chronograph collection.
Revolution
Wei Koh unboxes his Zenith Chronomaster Sport and activates lightning mode with Toffee the Border Collie
SJX Watches
Having sold the first publicly-known Daytona “Zenith” in platinum, Sotheby’s is going to offer yet another. Once again a unique example, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16516 in platinum – and a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial – will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Hong Kong watch auction in April 2021. “Sothebys is delighted to present this automatic Zenith Daytona rendered in platinum with a ‘Tiffany blue’ lacquered ‘Stella’ dial in April,” says Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, who adds, “Manufactured in 1998, this previously unknown watch comes from the same collection as the record-breaking platinum Daytona with hardstone lapis lazuli dial sold by Sotheby’s last year.” The “Tiffany blue” lacquered dial of the platinum Daytona that’ll be sold in April According to Sotheby’s, only five platinum Daytonas with the Zenith El Primero movement were made in the late 1990s, at the request of Rolex’s then chief executive Patrick Heiniger. Each example was unique in having a different dial, but all were equipped wit the same cal. 4030 derived from the Zenith El Primero, which was phased out in favour of the in-house cal. 4130 in 2000. The late Heiniger kept one for himself, and gifted the remainder to key business partners of Rolex. Sotheby’s has since sold two of the five, each achieving a record price for an automatic Daytona. The first was a wedding present to a member of the Gobbi family that owns the eponymous watch retailer in...
Revolution
Zenith announces a brand new generation of their 1/10th of a second chronograph with the El Primero 3600 automatic powered, Chronomaster Sport
WatchAdvice
Pros: El Primero 3600 movement with 1/10th of a second chronographTri-coloured dials add a touch of class Rolex Ceramic Daytona anyone? Cons: Some may find it heavy on the wrist after a long period of wearTo change links have to unscrew using two screwdriversSome may not appreciate the monochromatic oscillating weight Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Zenith has shown great success during the LVMH Watch Week 2020 in Dubai, which is why alongside other LVMH brands, they are now releasing their latest watches in a one-week online event. Zenith will put together a special presentation that is a mix of digital and physical representations to showcase the latest timepieces. Reference: 03.3100.3600/69.M3100 One of these latest models to leave the Zenith Manufacture is the new Chronomaster Sport. For Zenith, 2021 has been dubbed the year of the Chronomaster. The focus of the LVMH week for Zenith will of course then be on this latest Chronomaster Sport release, which features an evolved version of the El Primero movement, now being able to allow for 1/10th of a second measurement! Zenith CEO Julien Tornare spoke about the importance of LVMH event and also Chronomaster by stating that “My team and I are thrilled to finally be able to share with you something we’ve been working on for quite some time – a true evolution of a mod...
SJX Watches
Two years ago, when Zenith celebrated the semicentennial of the El Primero – the world’s first high-beat, automatic chronograph movement – a successor to the long-running workhorse was quietly unveiled as part of a three-piece set. Designed from ground up as a brand-new movement, the El Primero 3600 was equipped with modern tech and additional features, including twin chronograph seconds hands. But the movement never made it to regular production, until now. The El Primero 3600 finally becomes accessible with the new Chronomaster Sport, a new line of sports chronographs featuring a shiny black-ceramic bezel and two dial options. Initial thoughts The debut of El Primero 3600 two years ago was noteworthy, but it was lost amongst the tasteful remakes – case in point – created to commemorate the anniversary. Now that the vintage remakes have reached their end with the final instalment announced just recently, the new movement can take the stage. The El Primero 3600 is certainly an impressive upgrade and a completely different animal compared to the original El Primero. Most notable is the addition of a lightning central seconds that travels six times as fast, completing one revolution every 10 seconds, allowing it to measure 1/10th of a second. That truly unleashes the full potential of the El Primero movement, which runs at 10 beats a second, or 36,000 beats per hour. Technical ingenuity notwithstanding, the watch itself looks good, albeit slightly derivative. T...
Time+Tide
Ok, here’s a fact: The Rolex Daytona owes a debt to the Zenith El Primero. A modified version of the El Primero movement powered the Daytona for 12 years, and marked the first automatic Daytona models. This all happened when I was merely 12 years old, in 1988. And now, Zenith is taking that debt … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport has earned the right to take a trick from a rival appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Zenith brings back its first and most iconic El Primero calibre with the new Chronomaster Revival A385. Here are the details.
SJX Watches
After having brought back the A384 and A386 for the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, Zenith has finally remade the last of the three original, 1969 El Primero chronographs. Like the earlier two re-editions, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is faithful to the original, retaining both the proportions of the case and dial – while also boasting a historically-correct movement, an accomplishment exclusive to Zenith since its never stopped making the calibre. As it was with the vintage originals, the A385 remake has the same the tonneau-shaped case found on the A384, but stands out with its smoked dial finish, a defining feature of the original, which also has a cool backstory. In 1970, an original A385 was fastened to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 operated by Air France on a flight from Paris to New York – and the watch kept perfect time on landing. A vintage brochure showing the original El Primero trio that made their debut in 1969 Initial thoughts Being a spot-on reissue means the A385 is unimaginative, but that precisely what makes it appealing. In fact, it’s difficult to not like the watch, which retains all of the qualities of the original – from design to landmark movement – while being reasonably priced, as Zenith watches most often are. And the icing on the cake is the dial finish, a warm tone sets it apart from the many El Primero re-editions, most of which are dressed in plainer colours. The smoked, coffee-colour dial also evokes the faded, “t...
Time+Tide
This morning a new generation of Omega Speedmaster Professionals were announced, but that was not the only legendary chronograph revival and rejuvenation introduced today. Zenith has unveiled a new tribute to one of their chronographs from 1969: the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Gradient Dial. Game-changers in their day, Zenith produced three watches that were not … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece clouded in such mystery that its existence was all but forgotten, until recently. The story behind this timepiece goes back to 1970, where after the iconic El Primero movement was produced by Zenith, the manufacture also produced a prototype for a manual winding chronograph. This chronograph model was housed in a blackened steel case, which was quite rare during the ’70s. The manufacture produced only a handful of these concepts, with the watch never making it into full production. Soon after, the quartz crisis hit, which forced Zenith’s El Primero savior Charles Vermont to store all the plans and designs for mechanical watches including El Primero designs in a secret walled off attic in the manufacture. Just imagine though, if this beautiful all-black timepiece was never to be uncovered by the manufacture! Luckily this wasn’t the case, as in 2019 when Zenith began celebrating their 50th anniversary of the El Primero Chronograph caliber, the team at the manufacture decided to go through all the plans, designs, and parts that they found in the secret attic. Among the numerous items hidden away, was a box that contained the original prototype of this special black chronograph model. A model that hasn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970s. The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” project is a remake of the original 1970 model. Zenith, however, decided that instead of faithfully reproducing a replica of...
Revolution
In an unprecedented year, Zenith has given us some of their best watches yet, deeply rooted in heritage but forward looking. How did the brand mange this?
Revolution
Zenith new Defy Classic Carbon is a 65-gram (carbon bracelet and all) lightweight package that oozes some heavyweight coolness.
SJX Watches
A line of sports watches that’s modern in style and mechanics, the Defy was previously available only in mostly traditional materials, namely titanium, ceramic, or gold. But the base model now gets an upgrade with the Defy Classic Carbon that has a carbon-composite case, and more interestingly, a bracelet entirely in carbon composite. Initial thoughts Carbon composites are desirable in engineering for their lightness and strength, which is why they are used in aircraft bodies and Formula 1 cars. In watchmaking the material is useful for its lightness, but even more useful for its distinctive look. It is widely used for watch case, and sometimes in movements, so it’s no longer as novel as it was. This isn’t the first carbon-composite case for Zenith; the El Primero Lightweight of 2013 claims that title, while the El Primero Defy 21 is currently in the catalogue. So the Defy Classic Carbon isn’t groundbreaking, but it does look good. The liberal use of carbon composite suits the design well, with the techno-organic random pattern of the composite going well the open-worked dial, resulting in a sporty, fresh look that’s the best amongst all of the base-model Defy watches. The version equipped with a carbon fibre bracelet looks best naturally, because of the coherent, unbroken aesthetics and also rarity – while carbon-composite case are common, an integrated bracelet in the material is rare. Weighing just 65 g with the bracelet – about half the weight of a si...
Deployant
A timepiece shrouded in mystery. Its existence has eluded collectors and Zenith collaborators alike for decades. As the legend goes, in 1970, not long after Zenith debuted the groundbreaking El Primero calibre, the manufacture had produced a prototype of a manual-winding chronograph, housed in a blackened steel case – a rarity for the time. Only Read More
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Just days after unveiling the Lupin the Third edition inspired by a Japanese anime series, Zenith has rolled out a limited edition for countries on the other side of the world. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is similarly based on the El Primero A384, but dressed in red, white, and blue. Initial thoughts Zenith has released several limited edition A384s this year, which can feel a bit too frequent. But to the brand’s credit the editions have all been appealing, and the El Primero in general remains a well-priced chronograph. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is a good looking watch that retains the 1970s spirit of the A384 while giving it a totally new colour. The tricolour combination brings to mind the American flag, but it is an attractive combination that’s helped by details like the whimsical candy-cane central seconds hand. Gradient blue The key element that sets this A384 edition apart from the others is the dial, which is finished in a matte, graduated blue that darkens towards the edges. The smoked or fumé finish is popular today, but not especially common at Zenith. It’s matched with the red and white striped seconds hand, as well as a red-on-white date disc. The rest of the watch is stock A384, which means it remains true to the 1969 original in size and finish. It’s 37 mm in diameter and finished with radial brushing on its top face, just like the original. And inside is the El Primero 400 movement. Key facts and price Zenith Chronomaster Revival Li...
SJX Watches
Zenith had a surprise hit last year with the El Primero A384 Lupin The Third, a limited edition modelled on a fictional Zenith chronograph found in the Lupin III manga and anime series. Though available only in Japan, the 50-piece edition gained traction internationally with its striking gold-and-black livery. Now another Zenith watch found in the Japanese comic has been realised as the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – 2nd Edition. Launched to coincide with the opening of Zenith’s new boutique in Tokyo’s posh Ginza district, the new Lupin edition is a “panda” – featuring a white dial with black sub-dials as well as a parchment-coloured Super-Luminova. It’s based on the El Primero A384, a faithful remake of the vintage original of the same name, and shares the same specs. Initial thoughts The second Lupin edition lacks the high-contrast look of the first, but it does have a more classically vintage look that goes well with the angular A384 case. Zenith – or more accurately, the artist behind Lupin III, Monkey Punch – smartly removed most of the branding under 12 o’clock. The traditional four lines of text is now just one, bringing to mind similarly-clean Zenith dials of the 1970s. Perhaps the only weakness of the new edition is the short interval between this and the last one, about 11 months but feeling like a shorter span of time. And the new edition of 200 pieces is not large by watch industry standards, but substantially larger than the 50-pi...
Deployant
A step up from the run-off the mill skeleton rubber strap chronographs, Zenith wows with its movement as it usually does. That said, while this piece is a stunner, some may find that the watch is more LVMH than it is Zenith. As one who is biased towards a classic Zenith case, the Shadow may be a better option if one is considering a Zenith for his collection.
Quill & Pad
One charismatic coach and one cool chronograph: tennis’ premier mentor now wears a fast-paced Zenith El Primero Defy 21. Here’s the story behind Zenith’s new Defy 21 Patrick Mouratoglou Edition told by tennis journalist Miguel Seabra.
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The Bamford Watch Department announced a collaboration between Zenith and Black Badger with the release of the El Primero Superconductor BWD X Black Badger.
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Zenith revamps the Elite collection with an all new dial and case design. The Elite Classic is available in two sizes, 36 mm and 40.5 mm, understandably the equivalent of two sizes for ladies and men.
SJX Watches
Having just set the record for a modern Rolex wristwatch two years ago when a unique, platinum Daytona ref. 16516 with a Zenith movement sold for US$871,000, Sotheby’s broke its own record with yet another one-off Daytona in platinum that sold for HK$25,375,000, or about US$3.27 million, fees included. The Daytona became the most valuable modern Rolex despite having been relatively under the radar prior to the sale. While the platinum Daytona sold in 2018 was widely published in the press and social, today’s example was not covered by any of the key horological publications. And it was depicted with a bizarre turquoise leather strap in catalogue photos, though the strap was replaced with one in a neutral shade of tan during the preview exhibition. The famous five Both were part of a five-piece run of Zenith Daytona watches with platinum cases made at the request of former Rolex chief executive Patrick Heiniger in 1999. The late Heiniger reputedly kept one for himself, and gifted the others to key business partners. The watch sold in 2018 for instance was a wedding gift a member of the family that was a longtime Rolex retailer in Italy. All share the same model reference 16516, but each was unique in having a different dial made of an exotic or precious material. The example sold in 2018 had a dark mother of pearl dial, which was also found on the standard-production white gold Daytona of the period. In contrast, the platinum Daytona that just sold at Sotheby’s has a ...
Time+Tide
Just a few short weeks ago, Time+Tide had the distinct pleasure of globally unveiling the last of the 50th anniversary special edition Zenith El Primeros. Called the Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, this gorgeous watch was the result of a surprise discovery that the team at Zenith had found in a dusty old cupboard in their … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While Zenith occasionally looks into its famed attic for inspiration, the brand regularly shows off its innovation and forward-thinking sensibilities. Case in point – the new Defy 21 Ultraviolet. The watch is dressed entirely in violet, a colour with one of the highest frequencies in the visible spectrum, making the livery a conceptual complement to the 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 9004 inside the watch. Initial thoughts It never really struck me how uncommon the colour is in watchmaking until I saw the new Defy 21 (though the influencer and collector Amr Sindi has collaborated with several brands to create watches in the colour, and may have had a hand in conceiving the Defy 21 Ultraviolet). A bold choice of choice, violet is used for the dial and strap, but also throughout the movement, making for a fun and casual watch, especially on the rubber strap covered in violet fabric. Though the violet elements might seem loud at first glance, the colour isn’t actually too much. It’s a dark purple that’s more Imperial Rome than Joker from Batman. And it is essentially a two-colour watch in violet and dark grey; the use of a micro-blasted titanium case, helps to diminish the visual prominence of watch. Colour aside, the Defy 21 is a strong value proposition – though it’s the best value in its simplest guise – offering a twin-oscillator, high-frequency chronograph movement for a relatively affordable price. A new face Colour aside, the look is pretty much like the...
Revolution
Inspired by ultraviolet light, Zenith introduces the all new Defy 21 Ultraviolet powered by the incredible 21st century El Primero 9004 movement
Time+Tide
Watch press releases are guilty of purple prose on a daily basis. But you can forgive Zenith a poetic, purple turn of phrase or two here, because what they have brought together in the Defy 21 Ultraviolet – which is the highest frequency colour with a high frequency chronograph, able to measure time to 1/100th … ContinuedThe post Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s Friday, it’s knockoff, and it’s a beading glass of vodka and dry ginger I have at my left hand. What a week! Most of it was dominated by the Mission: Possible attempt to film a feature-length special on a Sunday and then publish it at 3am Australian time on Thursday morning. It was ambitious. We … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Celebrating the week we helped Zenith launch the final El Primero 50th Anniversary Edition and Billie Eilish’s baller new watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith marked the 50th Anniversary of the El Primero last year with several historical remakes, including the editions for Phillips auctioneers as well as the El Primero A386 Revival, a set of watches that were a near-exact reproduction of the original. Now Zenith has debuted the final A386 remake – in steel like the original – with the Chronomaster Revival “Manufacture Edition” that’s equipped with a dial inspired by a long-forgotten prototype. Initial thoughts The Manufacture Edition is good-looking watch but a crucial factor in its appeal is the material – and price. Last year’s A386 Revival trio was only in 18k gold – one each in white, pink, and yellow gold. The Manufacture Edition is in steel, making it the most affordable A386 yet. Handsome and striking with a well-proportioned case and dial, the watch is very much a typical El Primero A386. The star of the new remake is unquestionably the dial. Employing the same tri-colour palette that’s the A386 trademark, this replaces the traditional tri-colour with different shades of the same blue, ranging from a bright azure blue to a dark midnight navy. For someone who loves the colour, this is appealing. The juxtaposition of the blue registers against the white dial promotes a stark and legible look. And it’s also worth noting the watch is not a limited edition – a wise move to avoid having unlimited limited editions – though distribution will be limited to Zenith’s e-commerce store and the ...
Revolution
New from Zenith an A386 with tri-tone blue sub dials, inspired by a prototype dial discovered in their famed attic at the manufacture
Time+Tide
We have had some moments over the six plus year journey of Time+Tide, and this is certainly one of them. We have been asked by Zenith, one of the great manufactures, to help them launch this – the FINAL El Primero Special Edition in the 50th Anniversary year – the Chronomaster Manufacture Edition. Above is … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Watch our epic video about the new Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, which includes an invitation from CEO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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