Hodinkee
Watches & Wonders 2023 Starts Monday: Brace Yourself For New Releases From Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, And Dozens More
The team is in Geneva and new watches are in the air.
1,283 articles · 10 videos found · page 20 of 44
Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Patek Philippe thread.
The 1932 Patek reference that set the template for every modern dress watch.
Gérald Genta's 1976 Patek sports watch. Sketched on a restaurant napkin at Baselworld 1974.
Patek's 1997 accessible sport watch alongside the Nautilus. Rounded-octagonal case, tropical strap.
Hodinkee
The team is in Geneva and new watches are in the air.
Worn & Wound
Field watches work particularly well as a blank slate. They are rigorously simple by design, a watch made for pure function and to simply get out of the way of your day to day life. An easily legible dial and a compact case are the only true prerequisites. From there, watch brands have a ton of latitude in how they create a field watch that feels unique to them and will please their customers. There are literally hundreds of traditional field watches to choose from, made by just about every brand you can think of, from Hamilton to Patek Philippe, but I have a soft spot for the oddball interpretations that provide a twist on the norm. The Circula ProTrail isn’t exactly avant-garde or anything, but it’s just a few degrees away from “the standard,” giving it a unique contemporary sensibility among a sea (or a field?) of similar watches that tend to cling to the past. Circula is a German brand with roots dating back to the 1950s, but was effectively relaunched in 2018 by the founder’s grandson, Cornelius Huber. What started with a series of simple German made quartz watches has become a varied collection of precision machined sports watches (for the most part), often in vibrant colors. They put a focus on manufacturing, which is evident in the ProTrail I sampled, and can be easily seen in other watches in their catalog. They’re one of the few brands, for instance, to offer a dive watch in a true super-compressor case. I had the opportunity to sample the ProTrai...
SJX Watches
Having covered highlights from independent watchmakers at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on April 5. We look at eight notable lots. Some, like the platinum Patek Philippe ref. 5016 with its minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, are amongst the most valuable in the sale. But the catalogue also has value buys, notably including offerings from jewellers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue can be accessed here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5016P Lot 2137: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux One of the most poetic timepieces by the Parisian jeweller, the Pont des Amoureux was a watch that helped make Van Cleef & Arpels as a watchmaker. This watch is the original and cleanest version of the model, which was discontinued in 2019 and replaced by a revised version. The watch is all about a uniquely whimsical depiction of the passing of time. A double retrograde display takes the form of two figures: a lady with an umbrella indicates the hours whilst a gentleman marks the minutes. The two figures move towards one another over the course of 12 hours, until they meet and “kiss” on top of the bridge that overlooks the Seine river – this happens twice in a day, at midday and midnight. The dial is executed in grisaille enamel, a meticulous process that dates back to the 16th century. The techn...
SJX Watches
As is now tradition, Patek Philippe is unveiling its Rare Handcrafts collection for the year at its boutique in Geneva alongside Watches & Wonders (W&W;) that takes place at the same time. Open to the public from April 1 to 15, Rare Handcrafts 2023 encompasses 67 timepieces – including 22 Dome Clocks and a dozen pocket watches – all decorated with a variety of artisanal techniques ranging from wood marquetry to cloisonné enamel. Amongst the highlights from the collection is the Calatrava ref. 5189G-001 “1948 Nations Grand Prix” (pictured above), a wristwatch with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the automobile race that took place in Geneva from 1946 to 1950. Another is the pocket watch “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 that is finished with wood marquetry on its back and champlevé enamel along the case and bow. “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 In addition to the new launches, the exhibition also has on show a selection of vintage and antique timepieces from the Patek Philippe Museum. Rare Handcrafts 2023 is open daily to the public from April 1 to 15, except on Sundays. Patek Philippe Salons Rue du Rhône 41 1204 Genève Switzerland Admission is free but registration is required and it can be done on Patek.com.
Worn & Wound
Last week, news of the latest marquee lot to go under the hammer via Phillips broke across watch media. The phrase “historically significant” is often used to describe high profile vintage watches that go up for auction, but very few actually feel truly historic. I would argue that this particular Patek Philippe, a watch that once belonged to Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, meets just about any definition for historically significant that you can come up with. Not only did it belong to a figure from our relatively recent history that marked a profound change in a nation’s history, but in terms of vintage Patek, this complicated Calatrava is worth studying even outside the scope of its significant owner. If you’re not familiar with Puyi’s story, a brief introduction or refresher is certainly in order to properly contextualize the watch. Aisin-Gioro Puyi became the Emperor of China at the age of 2, abdicated his throne at 7, and was held as a political prisoner by the Soviets following World War II. Puyi led an uncommon and complex life through a period of great political upheaval, but it’s notable that despite the title of Emperor that was thrust upon him as a boy, he never held significant power as a world leader. In his brief stint as the final Emperor of the Qing Dynasty he was essentially a figurehead, and later served as the puppet leader of Manchukuo for the Japanese following their invasion of Manchuria in 1932. Puyi is seen by s...
Time+Tide
The MB&F; LM Perpetual Steel is their second ever creation to have a salmon dial Stainless steel is very rarely used by MB&F; for cases, upping the rarity factor even more Not a limited edition, but it will be limited in production each year When you look at higher end brands like Patek Philippe, typically … ContinuedThe post The new MB&F; LM Perpetual has a salmon dial in a steel case – super rare for the brand yet not a limited edition! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it. While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy. The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation. Image – PaddleWaves An Emperor’s timekeeper Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China. In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlle...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders is fast approaching, and that means one thing: we’re running out of time to make predictions. It seems like everyone has some ideas about what we might see later this month in Geneva from Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, and others, and that certainly includes the Worn & Wound editorial team. The key difference, as podcast listeners are well aware, is that we have a demonstrated history of being completely, 100%, wrong. Here now are our wildest thoughts on what we might see at Watches & Wonders in just a few short weeks. These might seem a little crazy, but would you really have thought Rolex might release a lefty GMT at this time last year? We didn’t think so. Zach Weiss I’m really not good at making predictions for Watch & Wonders or other release events, and this year, half of the brands have already unveiled at least something coming up already (we keep embargos, so don’t even ask). That said, last year I did jokingly say in the office that if Tudor came out with a BlackBay 58 with a GMT and a steel bezel, I’d buy it, assuming the notion was too absurd. Sadly, that’s not in writing, so you’ll have to take my word for it, but I did follow through with the BBPro purchase. Anyway, I’m not making any such promises this year. Last year was one of big releases as it was the first true-Swiss tradeshow post-Covid lockdown. This year, I don’t think we’re going to see such exciting launches in general. So, prediction one is just a more ordi...
Hodinkee
The latest Sotheby's New York sale has a load of perpetual calendar chronographs, modern chronographs, and even pocket watches. So which ones are the best? We've got some ideas.
Time+Tide
Trends come and go, and the hype around particular watches, or watch segments, shift over time. These days, for example, integrated designs are all the rage – particularly in steel. And certain bold colour expressions begin to inundate the market, becoming certified colours of the year. But, while many lust over various in-trend watches of … ContinuedThe post Why Andy Warhol’s Patek Philippe ref. 2526 up for sale at Sotheby’s is the one to buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's gone but not forgotten. As Patek introduces the successor, we go beyond the hype and into the details of one of the world's most recognizable – and, yes, collectible – watches.
Hodinkee
We didn't think this stainless steel Patek could be any more of a grail. Now it's even grail-ier.
Hodinkee
Want a Patek, but don't want to sell your car to pay for it? Find yourself an Aquanaut, if you can. Though you probably can't.
Hodinkee
For the first of a brand new series, Ben chats with Ed Sheeran about watch collecting, the ebb and flow of Patek Philippe, and the untold flexibility of ketchup.
Quill & Pad
The annual calendar is much more practical than a standard calendar, which needs correction in all months with 30 days or less; the annual calendar only needs correcting once a year in February. For owners of this noble yet practical complication, making this adjustment marks a yearly highlight. In celebration of the annual calendar, here are three exciting new models to kick off 2022 in style.
Time+Tide
It’s nearly impossible to distil and encompass the variety and unique features of last year’s best complication into only five picks, but we’ll do our best to try, while having to include only a couple honourable mentions. Like any other year, established players in mainstream high-end watchmaking like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne … ContinuedThe post The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With 2022 revenue of S$716.9 million (equivalent to US$532 million), Cortina Watch is one of the world’s biggest watch retailers. It was founded in 1972 as a single store but has grown into a regional giant with stores across Southeast Asia as well as outposts in Taiwan and Australia. Cortina marked its 50th anniversary this year with a slew of limited editions that reflect its importance, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057 made specifically for it. Though publicly listed, the company remains controlled by the founding Lim family, with the third generation having recently joined the business. A crucial member of management is Jeremy Lim, the younger son of Cortina founder Anthony Lim. Jeremy helms the business alongside his siblings Raymond and Sharon. I spoke with Jeremy recently to uncover the factors behind the longevity and success of Cortina. Three generations of the Lim family, with Jeremy Lim second from left. Image – Cortina Watch SJX: When Cortina was founded 50 years ago by your father, it was one of many watch stores in Singapore. But now Cortina is one of the few left, in fact it’s one of the biggest in the region. What is the secret to the longevity and success? Jeremy Lim (JL): We were lucky that we had a lot of help from the family when my dad started the business with my mom. [My brother] Raymond started early in the business, then my sister got interested in the business as well, and subsequently I was reeled in. The old school method o...
Quill & Pad
As read by you, here are the top ten most viewed articles (plus a bonus one) on Quill & Pad this past year. There are a few favorites and a few surprises. Drum roll, please: in no particular order, our top ten most viewed articles of 2022 were . . .
Hodinkee
A forgotten master's history traces from the Vallée de Joux to New York City – and, along the way, touches Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Tiffany & Co., and H. Moser & Cie.
Hodinkee
A wide-ranging conversation with the titan atop the most storied brand in watchmaking.
Hodinkee
Last chance to add an expertly curated vintage watch to your collection before the year is over!
Hodinkee
A host of hidden gems means we have a vintage watch for everyone on your holiday list this year.
Quill & Pad
The Patek Philippe Advanced Research Reference 5550P is a truly lovely perpetual calendar with some interesting technical twists.
SJX Watches
While much of the buzz around Patek Philippe’s recent launches has been centred on the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G in white gold, the year has been mostly about other than the Nautilus and Aquanaut. Amongst the most notable new launches for 2022 is the World Time Flyback Chronograph ref. 5935A-001. Continuing with Patek Philippe’s development of steel watches beyond its traditional sports models, the ref. 5935A is a striking new take on a model that made its debut in 2016. Previously available only in precious metals (namely white gold or platinum), the ref. 5935A is the first of the model in stainless steel – and one of the brand’s few complicated watches in the metal. And the ref. 5935A is larger in diameter than its predecessor, but its most eye-catching feature is the dial in “rose-gilt opaline” (or “salmon” if you wish). Initial thoughts A World Time in steel is a big deal because the world time is arguably an iconic watch for Patek Philippe. Select vintage examples are amongst the handful of Patek Philippe references that can sell for high-seven or even eight figures. Granted the ref. 5935A adds a chronograph into the mix, but it is still modern take on a signature complication. The ref. 5935A retains the familiar Louis Cottier-type world time display that’s almost synonymous with Patek Philippe, but with contemporary materials and colours. And at 41 mm it is also larger than usual for a Patek Philippe complication, giving it something of a sporty feel...
SJX Watches
Going on the block at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe ref. 5004J “Michael Ovitz”. It’s lot 2520 and one of the watches from The Triazza Collection, an impressive accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman. The collection is heavy on Patek Philippe. Amongst the other timepieces in the collection is the Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that won first prize at the Geneva Observatory in 1931 (which is also being offered in the same auction) and the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 that once belonged to Eric Clapton (but is not for sale, yet). “MSO” – Michael Steven Ovitz The “MSO” initials on this ref. 5004J instantly reveal it was one of the many, I would two dozen at least, special-order watches that Patek Philippe made for Michael Ovitz starting in 2011. Often described as a “super agent”, Mr Ovitz cofounded Creative Artists Agency (CAA), once the dominant talent agency in Hollywood. After a short-lived spell at Disney, he’s now known for his impressive art collection, some of which is on show in his equally impressive home in California. Though the reason behind Patek Philippe’s accommodation of Mr Ovitz is not publicly known, industry lore has it that the watches were an expression of gratitude by the Sterns after Mr Ovitz assisted them in a significant way. Mr Ovitz has only commented on these watches publicly once, in a 2021 article in Robb Report: “It was the first time Ovitz, who has be...
SJX Watches
Having already covered highlights in two categories – independent watchmaking and interesting complications – in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now focus on a crowd favourite when it comes to complications, the chronograph. We look at eight chronographs that stand out in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. They range from an esoteric Patek Philippe made for an English football club owned by a Thai duty-free shopping magnate to and a fine specimen of the mythical Omega Speedmaster “MIR-90 90 Days” that spent three months on the Russian space station. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A-011 made in 2016 to commemorate Leicester City becoming Premier League champions for the first time Lot 813: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, first-generation “Meter” dial Since its introduction in 1999 as Lange’s first chronograph, the Datograph is of the German brand’s most iconic timepieces. Even independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour famously fawns over the movement – he owns an example in rose gold – that is a masterpiece of impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. This example is a first-generation model with a 39 mm platinum case and a glossy black dial, arguably the quintessential Datograph. Keen-eyed collectors will notice “METER” on the tachymeter scale, indicating this is one of the earliest examples of the model. The warranty confirms that with a 2001 purchase date. Lange began usin...
Hodinkee
Only the important stuff. Nothing else.
SJX Watches
Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...
Revolution
Andre Frois, Editor-in-Chief of Revolution Asia, and Alexandre Bigler, Vice President Asia Pacific and Head of Watches at Christie’s, discuss the ultra rare timepieces that will go under the hammer at Christie’s autumn auctions on 27th November. Up for sale include the first-ever world time wristwatch, the vaunted Patek Philippe Ref. 5004 and Patek Philippe […]
SJX Watches
With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...
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