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Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
TAG Heuer (1999), Zenith (1999), Hublot (2008), Bulgari (2011), plus Louis Vuitton in-house and Tiffany & Co. Bernard Arnault\'s Paris-based group.
Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Zenith thread.
The 1969 36,000 vph automatic chronograph saved from the quartz crisis by Charles Vermot.
Time+Tide
Dubai Watch Week is currently underway, so for this edition of Last Week in Watches, we wanted to do something a little different.The post Dubai Watch Week special – new releases from Zenith, Bulgari, MB&F; and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The first enthusiasts’ club in the United Arab Emirates, Dubai Watch Club (DWC) has regularly created limited edition for its members. The latest is the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Dubai Watch Club, a striking new take on the old-school El Primero A384. Initial thoughts Zenith has done many variants of the A384 remake, but the DWC edition is different, being both conspicuous and subtle. The yellow is hard to miss, particularly with the contrast-colour case and registers, but the Eastern Arabic numerals elements are subtle and practically invisible at a distance. It only reveals the distinctively local details up close, which gives it the appeal of an insider’s watch. More generally, the A384 remake that’s the base of the DWC edition is an appealing watch in itself because it retains practically all of the aesthetics of the original, including the compact case, but executes it in a thoroughly modern way in the form of a titanium case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). Local details Founded by Emirati collectors including Adel Al-Rahmani and Nawaf Al-Abdooli, DWC started with 10 members in 2014, a tally that has multiple tenfold since then. Amongst the club’s past editions was the Cartier Santos-Dumont XL in 2021. The DWC El Primero is based on the A384 remake in titanium, with the dial being unique to the DWC edition. The dial is a bright yellow while the sub-dials and tachymeter scale in dark grey to match the case. Only up close do Middle East-inspired eleme...
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith SA, a Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots all the way back to 1865, is best known these days for its historic and hugely influential El Primero chronograph caliber, but the company can lay claim to many other horological milestones and accolades as well, some of which might be somewhat less than common knowledge. Did you know, for example, that Zenith has won more chronometry awards than any other watch brand? Or that it was once owned by an electronics company of the same name? Or that it is the only brand that’s allowed to put “Pilot” on a pilot’s watch dial? In this in-depth feature, I explore these and other aspects of Zenith’s fascinating history and also offer a primer on the manufacture’s modern watch collections. Georges-Favre-Jacot and Historic Integration Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot (above) was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer Le Corbusier, embraced a similarly modern approach to making watches, taking his cues from the American firms Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal business. His company, originally called Georges Favre-Jacot & Co., was the first Swiss watch producer to bring the various disciplines of horology under one roof - as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which h...
Time+Tide
Even if you say you are not going to buy one of them, you were probably eagerly waiting for the new Swatch x Blancpain collaboration. Well, it leaked before the scheduled date and it made the cut as one of the best releases of the week. AP also surprised everyone with six new additions to … ContinuedThe post New releases from Zenith, Seiko, JLC and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With Geneva Watch Days inching ever closer, more and more watches are being presented. As always, we chose only ten, with some amazing releases being left out. Considering the fair looming ever closer, we’re maybe just a touch worried, as the European summer holidays come to an end and GWD reach their peak. Either way, … ContinuedThe post New releases from Zenith, Vacheron Constantin, Mr Jones and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A modern take on Zenith's long-standing pilot line, complete with El Primero calibers.
Teddy Baldassarre
Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642. The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Zenith El Primero, found today in watches throughout Zenith’s collection, from the Chronomaster to the Defy to the Pilot, is arguably the watch world’s most famous movement - more widely known, in fact, than some of the watch models to whom it has given life during its half-century-plus of existence. The reasons for its renown are several, from the technical revolution it represented at its origin to the legendary role it played in the post-Quartz Crisis revival of the mechanical watch. Here we examine what made the El Primero so special in the first place and introduce you to some modern watches that demonstrate how it is still evolving and improving in the 21st century. A FOUNDATION OF PRECISION Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer le Corbusier, took his own pioneering approach to making watches, becoming one of the first to bring the various horological disciplines under one roof as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which had different parts made in different small workshops before being delivered to another workshop for assembly into a finished watch, Georges Favre-Jacot & co. became Zenith in 1911, the company taking its new name from a top-of-the-line movement it created that won a Grand Prix for precision at the 1900 Paris World’s F...
Hodinkee
While companies often focus on their most iconic watches and let old models flounder, Zenith has built the Defy line back into a strong pillar of the brand.
Time+Tide
I am by no means an avid skier. My first experience on the slopes was last year on a press trip with Hublot, my instructor bluntly telling me that my next ski adventure should also have an instructor on hand as well. But, in preparation for that first trip, I definitely was immersed in the … ContinuedThe post And one more thing… The last Zenith Defy Classics ever just dropped in collaboration with Fusalp appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Just got back from Zermatt last Friday evening, and right upon my return the action was nonstop throughout the week. With a moment to finally catch my breath, I can now catch you all up. The next morning, upon arriving back from Switzerland, Longines invited me out to Governors Island in NYC to watch the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When the Zenith Chronmaster Revival went pink for the Pink Dial Project Auction, many bidders were excited at the prospect of winning such a vibrant piece unique. Sadly, this meant many missed out – until now. In a manner that allows more people to have a pink-dialled Zenith watch, while protecting the integrity of the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It is kind of a shame that a barometer for the success of a watch reference is when it is not readily available to purchase at retail. In an era of “unobtanium” Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, these super-hot brands all have standard-production watches selling at a premium due to their lack of availability. … ContinuedThe post Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Zenith Chronomaster Original Limited Edition For Hodinkee
Hodinkee
After sixteen years at Zenith, Romain Marietta is just getting started.
Hodinkee
Explore the history of Zenith's El Primero at Phillips – and meet the HODINKEE editors.
Hodinkee
The reborn Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire is a limited edition of 10 pieces, available exclusively through Phillips.
Hodinkee
Zenith's mid-2000s flagship chronograph receives new tenth-of-a-second duds.
Hodinkee
It's a marathon, not a sprint, and Zenith just won.
Hodinkee
Greg Selch discusses his collecting background, his relationship with Zenith, and the new Defy Skyline.
Time+Tide
Who did it first? That is always a prominent question in watch design. When people begin to discuss the Zenith Defy, many people categorise it as an intriguing alternative to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The Royal Oak is credited as the reference that birthed the luxury sports category, which made its debut in 1972. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Revival A3642 resurrects an octagonal design unlike any other appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Luxury watches can command exorbitant price tags at charity auctions and when piece uniques are on the table, the bidding wars inevitably heat up. We saw this recently during the Pink Dial Project auction, which Time+Tide was proud to be a partner of, and the trend continued at Only Watch, one of the largest recurring … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What’s been the most visually bonkers watch of the year? Possible contenders would have to include the Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem and the MB&F; M.A.D.1 Pink Dial Project. But fresh competition now comes in the form of the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021. To be fair, the dial of the original Zenith … ContinuedThe post Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I have asked this question before, and I’m still asking it while wearing a creamy-lumed, vintage-looking diver’s watch. When do we reach peak vintage, and do we really want to? I love the time-travelling feeling, but I would also go mental if my entire collection consisted of 38mm vintage skindivers. If you’ve already hit saturation … ContinuedThe post Fed up with vintage? The best modern antidotes for under $10K from Zenith to Hublot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It took 50+ years, but Zenith is finally giving the people exactly what they want.
Hodinkee
The limited edition Zenith El Primero Revival G381, limited to just 50 pieces to honor the 50th anniversary of the game-changing El Primero movement, is priced at $19,200 and beautifully recaptures the shining early years of the automatic high-speed chronograph.
Time+Tide
Different professions have their own specific demands when it comes to the attributes of a watch. A professional diver, for example, needs a hydrogen-release valve, while a doctor could benefit from a pulsometer. But what about a DJ? This question popped up last year when I was talking to Carl Cox, the British superstar DJ … ContinuedThe post Beyond the rave: the Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki is the latest watch inspired by dance music alongside Zenith & Chanel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Colorful jewelled watches are trendy now. Zenith joins the likes of Chopard, Cartier, Jacob & Co, Harry Winston and Rolex to introduce a spectrum of colors to the highly technical DEFY sports watch.
Quill & Pad
Hublot always seems to have a finger on the pulse of what is currently moving people. And in this spirit the brand has recently launched a 'gender-neutral' Big Bang in a color marketed as 'Millennial Pink.' And Zenith has also recently announced a Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pink Edition, both of which have prodded Martin Green into taking a dive into 'gender-neutral watches.' And he wonders why there aren't more of them.
SJX Watches
In a widely expected move, the watch and jewellery brands owned by LVMH – Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – have just announced their pullout from Baselworld. Once the world’s largest watch fair, Baselworld suffered a mortal blow when its largest individual exhibitors, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor, announced their withdrawal a few days ago, opting instead to move to a new fair in Geneva. And surprisingly the fair issued a swift, and clearly miffed, response to the mass exodus. But the die has been cast, with the centre of gravity having shifted decisively to Geneva, making it inevitable that the French luxury conglomerate would follow suit – especially after having made known its wavering commitment to Baselworld – and now it’s official. With the LVMH announcement, Baselworld has lost all the major exhibiting brands in Messe Basel hall 1, the fair’s flagship space. The chiefs of the LVMH watch and jewellery brands at LVMH Watch Week that took place in Dubai in January 2020, a stopgap measure due to the uncertain trade show schedule. Photo – LVMH In a statement fresh off the press, the LVMH Watch Division and Bulgari explain their move with the “clearly weakened representation of the Swiss watch industry and hence inevitably lower participation… [leading us to] withdraw in order to preserve [our] image and relations with clients as well with the media.” What the four brands will do in Geneva has not yet been decided, conti...
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