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Tourbillon

Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.

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Hairspring

The coiled spring that controls the balance wheel; Huygens 1675, Breguet overcoil 1795.

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Daniel Roth

Designer behind modern Breguet 1973-89 and the eponymous Daniel Roth brand with its double-ellipse case.

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Breguet Numerals

The cursive italic Arabic numerals designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet ~1790; canonical haute-horlogerie dress watch numeral.

The pointy end of the Timex revival, a short history of the breakout Marlin collection Time+Tide
Timex revival Apr 5, 2020

The pointy end of the Timex revival, a short history of the breakout Marlin collection

When it comes to celebrity endorsements, Patrick Swayze’s sixth cousin once removed John Cameron Swayze is simply not modern watch brand ambassador material. A news anchor and game show host during the ’40s and ’50s, Chris Hemsworth he wasn’t. The 1960s, however, was the perfect era for Swayze to take to timepiece advertisements. Whether being … ContinuedThe post The pointy end of the Timex revival, a short history of the breakout Marlin collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph Aug 27, 2019

Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph

Editor’s note: It’s 2019 and bronze is here to stay. And I’ve got to say that, as far as trends go, this is one I can very much get behind. And while the combination of bronze case, heritage style and gradient dial is more common today than in the past, the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback … ContinuedThe post Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: TAG Heuer joins the bronze brigade with the Autavia Time+Tide
TAG Heuer joins Mar 22, 2019

VIDEO: TAG Heuer joins the bronze brigade with the Autavia

Bronze - that gold-toned alloy that only gets better with age - has continued its domination of the watch world, and the latest brand to be converted is TAG Heuer, who this week released two bronze versions of their brand new three-handed Autavia.  Structurally, it’s the same as the steel Autavias - 42mm across, powered by … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer joins the bronze brigade with the Autavia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Toledano & Chan Introduces the B/1.2, a Follow-Up to One of Last Year’s Breakout Independent Hits Worn & Wound
Rolex King Midas Jan 6, 2025

Toledano & Chan Introduces the B/1.2, a Follow-Up to One of Last Year’s Breakout Independent Hits

If 2024 was defined by the rise of shaped cases and stone dials, it appears that 2025 is starting off with more of the same. Last year, Toledano & Chan had an unexpected hit with their debut watch, the B/1, which was a contemporary riff on the classic Rolex King Midas and similar avant garde designs, with a Brutalist inspired case shape and on-trend lapis lazuil dial. Now, for the brand’s second serialized release (they produced a pair of one-offs for auction last year  with cases crafted from carbon and meteorite) they’ve made a handful of subtle refinements to the original idea, added a mother-of-pearl dial, and introduced a dramatic, faceted crystal. It’s a more complex idea but shows in clear terms how the brand might grow with future releases, showing that they have plenty of tricks left up their sleeve and intend to keep their momentum going.  The new watch, dubbed the B/1.2, prominently features an asymmetrical sapphire crystal that echoes the lines of the angular case. Faceted and asymmetrical crystals are rare in watchmaking. Production of crystals in unusual shapes, particularly when made from sapphire, is challenging and expensive. Perhaps even more importantly, a crystal with facets will distort, to some degree, whatever is viewed through it, which is not ideal for time telling. It’s perhaps especially not ideal for time telling on a watch with a dial that does not include markers or numerals of any kind, like the B/1.2. But that underscores the whole...

A Case for the Royal Oak and Other Hot Takes on Audemars Piguet’s First Semester Novelties Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet s First Semester Novelties Mar 10, 2026

A Case for the Royal Oak and Other Hot Takes on Audemars Piguet’s First Semester Novelties

I’ve been a freelance journalist for 14 years, and while watches have been part of my repertoire since the beginning, I didn’t fully niche into the horological sphere until 2018. One of the assignments I consider to be a breakout story that really gave my career in the watch world momentum came a year later in 2019. At the time, I was writing for The Hour Glass, and I had the opportunity to cover the inauguration of the Gérald Genta Heritage Association. In my then seven-year journey ascending to full horological obsession, I had come to revere Genta as one of the most influential figures in the history of watchmaking, and, in particular, I was charmed by the story of how the Royal Oak came to be. Yes, I have since referenced, been told, and retold the tale dozens of times over, but for me, Genta and the creation of the Royal Oak – the moment that arguably gave his career in the watch world momentum – will never get old and forever hold a special place in my heart.  With that said, I’m here to share my hands-on experience with Audemars Piguet’s first semester novelties thanks to a recent trip to AP House in downtown New York City. Among them are several new versions of the Royal Oak, and while none of these are the frontrunner of the lineup, they still bear recognition in my humble opinion. Yes, I will have to respectfully disagree with my Editorial Director Zach Kazan’s opinion piece defining the Royal Oak as “a pure flex.” Sure, like countless luxury ...

Nomos Caps off a Big 2025 with a New Pair of Limited Edition Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers Worn & Wound
Nomos Caps off Dec 8, 2025

Nomos Caps off a Big 2025 with a New Pair of Limited Edition Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers

It’s possible that 2025 might wind up being remembered as the year Nomos got its groove back. Of course, you’d have to argue that they ever lost it in the first place for that to be true, and I don’t know I’d quite go that far. But there’s no denying that they had their first true breakout watch in a very long time in 2025. The Club Sport Worldtimer, which debuted in April at Watches & Wonders, is almost certainly going to end up on a range of “Best of the Year” lists as December marches forward, and I can say without any hyperbole that it’s one of the top two or three watches from this year that I’m asked about by readers and collectors in the community. The fact that the limited editions that were part of the initial launch sold out so quickly is proof that the watch is resonating with enthusiasts.  Nomos added a trio of additional limited editions to the range back in October, and now, just in time for the holidays, they’ve added two more. Like that earlier set, the new Reverie and Roam models play on a similar theme. In this case, it’s the versatility of the classic champagne dial. The Reverie has a champagne dial base and is matched primarily with yellow accents (the outer cities ring, and within the 24 hour subdial). The complementary shades play well with each other, and the watch has a distinctly classic aesthetic. Nomos doesn’t really do “vintage inspired” but these tones make me think of old Datejusts and the types of watches you migh...

First Look – The new Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E02, a Fun Take on the Retro TV Test Card Motif Monochrome
Mido Nov 12, 2025

First Look – The new Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E02, a Fun Take on the Retro TV Test Card Motif

Mido’s TV-shaped Multifort has quietly become one of the most distinctive value propositions in the sports-chic bracket. The core model provided you with the compact square-with-rounded-corners, TV-shaped case, a big date at 12 o’clock, and a modern Powermatic-based calibre, while last year’s S01E01 Test Screen showed how playful the format could be without losing seriousness […]

Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL Fratello
Breitling Lands Aug 28, 2025

Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL

If last year’s 32-strong collection of Chronomat B01 42s in NFL team colors was the rookie season, this year is the sophomore breakout for Breitling. The Swiss watchmaker has announced that it is becoming the popular sport league’s inaugural timepiece partner, along with the release of new watches to the NFL collection. What can we […] Visit Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL to read the full article.

The Greatest Collectors of All Time: David Arthur Wetherfield – A Very Prominent and Significant English Collector Worn & Wound
Jul 29, 2025

The Greatest Collectors of All Time: David Arthur Wetherfield – A Very Prominent and Significant English Collector

David Arthur Wetherfield (1845-1928) was a prominent collector of English domestic clocks, amassing one of the most significant private collections of its kind. His collection, known as the Wetherfield Collection, particularly from the ‘Golden Age’ of English clockmaking (late 17th to early 18th century), consisted of over 220 clocks, including longcase clocks, bracket clocks, and lantern clocks. The collection was particularly notable for its focus on English craftsmanship, featuring works by master clockmakers such as Edward East, Daniel Quare, Joseph Knibb, George Graham and Thomas Tompion (known as the ‘Father of English Clockmaking’). David Wetherfield lived in Blackheath, Southeast London, and for many years, was the senior partner of the coal exporters and marine insurance brokers W.S. Partridge and Co. The firm went out of business when he retired at an advanced age. His interest in clocks was said to have started when he wanted to own a longcase (grandfather) clock, employing an ‘expert’ to advise him on which one he should buy. Apparently, he was deceived into buying a worthless imitation and when he realised this, decided to put together a collection of timepieces that would be unsurpassed by anyone else. His entire collection was housed at his home in Blackheath and remained there until his death, aged 83 in 1928. According to one visitor, the house was three or four storeys high with a basement, where grandfather clocks stood on every other stair ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs Omega Jul 20, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange”

Another week, another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we pit two mid-segment dive watches against each other. Although…”mid-segment”? Both brands have crept up in price, putting us in the €6,000–7,500 bracket today. Is that still mid-segment? Whatever you wish to call it, these are two very different watches doing very similar things at a similar […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange” to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin 222 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Jul 10, 2025

Vacheron Constantin 222 Review

The Vacheron Constantin 222 reissue first came out at Watches & Wonders 2022 and it was, quite literally and without hyperbole, the single most talked about watch at the show that year. The revival was a solid gold, integrated-bracelet sports watch that went from a somewhat obscure cult classic to a breakout, mainstream status watch seen on Brad Pitt, Michael B. Jordan, and Chris Paul. Once the initial excitement subsided and everyone got their wrist shots to post on Instagram, the obvious next question posed by industry insiders was, “when do we see a steel model revival?” Well, that question got answered late last year with the release of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Ref. 4200H/222A-B934, a watch that benefits from contemporary watchmaking techniques while looking like it could be straight out of the ‘70s. Done in a stainless steel case and bracelet with a subtle matte blue dial, this new 222 revival became one of the most lust-worthy releases of 2025 shorty after its arrival, less than two weeks into January. For a little history and background, the 222 was released in 1977 and is something of a precursor to the Overseas. I’ve heard a few people incorrectly attribute the 222 to Gérald Genta but it was actually the work of fellow prolific designer Jörg Hysek. The 222 came on the heels of the Royal Oak (1971) and Nautilus (1976) and the 1977 launch coincided with the brand’s 222th anniversary, hence the name. Like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the  2...

Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €5,000 In 2025 Fratello
Jul 3, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €5,000 In 2025

This week on Fratello Talks, we’re looking at some of the best watches under €5,000 in 2025. The last time that Daan, Thomas, and Nacho discussed favorites was a few weeks ago. Back then, they discussed their favorites in the sub-€2.5k price bracket. Today, they’re upping the ante and doubling the maximum price. This opens up […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €5,000 In 2025 to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Answers the Call of their Enthusiast Fans with the The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Answers May 16, 2025

Christopher Ward Answers the Call of their Enthusiast Fans with the The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé

Christopher Ward has smashed practically every boundary in their price bracket and continues to pick up loyal fans and newcomers like a cartoon snowball rolling down a mountainside. The Twelve-named somewhat confusingly for its dodecagonal bezel-has proven to be one of the brand’s most popular models, and likewise continues to expand its line of references since its inception in 2023. Responding to fan fervor, Christopher Ward has announced three The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé models to further round out The Twelve collection and prove to its followers that a little bit of fan-pleasing goes a long way. Each of the three new Non-Fumé models retains several distinctive characteristics from similar Grade 2 Titanium (or “Ti”) models, including a monotone dial finish, which has previously only been used for steel designs. The angular case wears at 40mm in diameter and 44.5mm lug-to-lug, giving it a significant, but not overbearing, presence on the wrist. Being titanium, the watch is a relatively lightweight 41 grams, and the screw-down crown at 3 o’clock paired with a screw-down display caseback ensures a fairly hardy 100 meters of water resistance.  Another shared element across the three Non-Fumé pieces is the repeating pattern on the dial, inspired by Christopher Ward’s “twin-flags” logo. When viewed at different angles-aided by the flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating-the motif’s texture reflects light back in varying ways. This type of t...

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR “Green Ceramic” & 26715CHNR “Tiger Iron” SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR “Green Apr 28, 2025

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR “Green Ceramic” & 26715CHNR “Tiger Iron”

In the run up to Watches & Wonders 2025, many commentators expected a breakout year for the GMT-Master II, since it’s the 80th year of the collection. But Rolex took things in a different direction and dominated headlines by launching the Land-Dweller instead. But Rolex didn’t forget about its signature travel watch, and debuted two new precious metal models. The first is the GMT-Master II ref. 126729VTNR, which is in 18k white gold with a left-handed crown and a green ceramic dial; a first for Rolex. The second is the GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR in Everose that brings a new dial material to Rolex, tiger iron, one of the oldest minerals on Earth. Both models are available exclusively with an Oyster bracelet in matching 18k gold. The “lefty” with its glossy green ceramic dial Initial thoughts I admit to being laser-focused on the Land-Dweller during Watches & Wonders; the new movement technology captured (and held) my attention throughout the event. But I still made time to check out the GMT-Master II collection, which was one of my favourite Rolex collections at one point in time. Naturally, both of these new references exude quality, which can be experienced directly in the smooth operation of the bezel and the decisive action of the clasp. The watches are decadent, heavy, and show that Rolex has not run out of ideas for interesting dials. In the case of the green ceramic dial in the “destro” variant, I think we can expect to see this material used more wide...

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo Saga Daybreak Apr 10, 2024

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...

Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture Worn & Wound
Nov 3, 2023

Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture

To this day, one of my favorite reviews that I’ve written for the website is that of the Ophion 786 Velos. Sometimes, you get a watch in your hands and it just kind of blows you away, shifting your perspective about what’s possible in a particular genre or price bracket. It can also subtly change your own taste. I still think about those Ophions fondly, and have been excitedly awaiting new work from the brand. Today, Ophion introduces the 411 Vesper, which feels like a significant step forward for the brand in terms of their ambition and the levels of intricacy introduced into the manufacturing process, particularly with respect to the dial.  The Vesper’s design inspiration comes from an influential work of architecture that was never actually built. The Newton Cenotaph, a conceptual work by the architect Étienne-Louis Boullée designed as a tribute to the English scientist, is dominated by an enormous spherical structure 500 feet tall, surrounded by two circular barriers dotted with cypress trees. Boullée was particularly interested in spherical shapes, and his work includes a study referred to as his “theory of bodies” which asserts that the sphere is nature’s most beautiful and perfect shape.  The Newton Cenotaph Ophion’s new Vesper incorporates many of the key design ideas from the Cenotaph into the watch itself. First and foremost, spheres and circular shapes are everywhere. Not just within the dial, but the case (39mm in diameter, 11.45mm tall) , lu...

Oris Celebrates the Life and Career of a Baseball Legend with the Hank Aaron Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Oris Celebrates Jul 28, 2023

Oris Celebrates the Life and Career of a Baseball Legend with the Hank Aaron Limited Edition

Back in the fall of 2020, Oris had a breakout hit with their Pointer Date Roberto Clemente Limited Edition. It was a watch that hit all of the right notes: a much loved complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, an appealing but uncommon colorway, and, most importantly, it helped to tell the story of the late Roberto Clemente, who is as well known as a humanitarian as a he is a baseball player. Now, Oris is back with another baseball themed watch, this one honoring the legacy of Hank Aaron, the Hall of Famer who held MLB’s home run record for decades after his retirement, and still holds records for most career RBIs and total bases. This project, however, is really more about Hank Aaron’s humanitarian legacy, and as a collaboration with the Hank Aaron Chasing the Dream Foundation, it seeks to honor the important work that took place after his baseball career ended.  The Chasing the Dream Foundation was founded in 1994 as a non-profit whose mission is to award scholarship funds to young people with limited opportunities. According to Oris and the Foundation, they have provided assistance for over 800 kids to further their education, with many pursuing careers in education, the sciences, and the arts. Earlier this week, the Atlanta Braves began a celebration of Aaron’s life and legacy, with the release of the new Hank Aaron Limited Edition version of the Big Crown Pointer Date playing a central role.  The watch takes a familiar format and adds color ...

Holthinrichs Announces the Deconstructed, their Most Ambitious Watch Yet Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Announces May 31, 2023

Holthinrichs Announces the Deconstructed, their Most Ambitious Watch Yet

In the world of the micro indie that is quickly becoming one our favorite emerging spaces in the watch industry, Holthinrichs Watches has been a longtime favorite. With their latest creation, the aptly named Deconstructed, they move to another level (or at least another price bracket) but retain much of the aesthetic and craft that originally captivated much of the Worn & Wound editorial team when we discovered their 3-D printed watches several years ago. The new watch is their most ambitious yet by a large margin, incorporating a new in-house movement and pushing the limits of their manufacturing process seemingly as far as they’ll go. If you look back on the watches they were making just a few years ago, the Deconstructed represents a fairly enormous leap in confidence and conviction in what the brand is doing. It’s genuinely exciting.  As the name of the watch implies, the Deconstructed is all about the piecing together of individual component parts. The 3-D printing process that Holthinrichs uses allows for an incredible amount of flexibility in designing each part of the case, allowing them to achieve an aesthetic result that would not be possible with more traditional manufacturing methods. For the Deconstructed, a focus has been placed on skeletonization, with each 3-D printed part reduced to the bare minimum of material (titanium, in this case), for a watch that is airy, lightweight, and a logical extension of the Holthinrichs watches that came before it.  Th...

Talking with Guillaume Laidet and Romaric André about the Vulcain x Seconde Seconde x Revolution Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute” Revolution
Nivada Grenchen Excelsior Park Jan 26, 2023

Talking with Guillaume Laidet and Romaric André about the Vulcain x Seconde Seconde x Revolution Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute”

Our second collaboration with Guillaume Laidet, celebrated revivalist of forgotten brands Nivada Grenchen, Excelsior Park and Vulcain, comes in the form of the Vulcain Cricket, the first alarm wristwatch to garner widespread acclaim. Since our last collaboration on the fully blacked-out Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster “No Barracuda”, we’ve gone a step further with our tongue-in-cheek approach […]

Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand – then doubles down Time+Tide
Oris ed modification – no Dec 11, 2022

Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand – then doubles down

Within basketball slang, the term “bricked” is used when someone badly misses a shot. A bricked phone, computer, or gaming console refers to when a device – typically after unauthorised modification – no longer can boot or power on. Bricked effectively means complete and utter failure, unless you add the word “up” after it – … ContinuedThe post Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand – then doubles down appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The top 5 watches of 2021 from $1000-$5000 (Part 2) Time+Tide
Serica ContinuedThe post VIDEO Jan 6, 2022

VIDEO: The top 5 watches of 2021 from $1000-$5000 (Part 2)

The $1000-$5000 USD price bracket is truly the wild west of the watch market, playing host to some watches that overstep their mark in terms of pricing and some that are still absolute bargains at $4999. From microbrands to established big guns, here are five more of the best mid-range watches from 2021. 1. Serica … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The top 5 watches of 2021 from $1000-$5000 (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The top 5 watches of 2021 from $1000-$5000 (Part 1) Time+Tide
Jan 4, 2022

VIDEO: The top 5 watches of 2021 from $1000-$5000 (Part 1)

The $1000-$5000 category is a sweet spot for so many watch enthusiasts, as it reflects a quality benchmark that distinguishes itself from the more budget options. Moving above this bracket can sometimes see slightly diminishing returns, so if you’re looking for the best quality, heritage and artistry for the best price, chances are you’ll find … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The top 5 watches of 2021 from $1000-$5000 (Part 1) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price Time+Tide
Mido Jul 3, 2020

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price

There’s very little that hasn’t been done in watchmaking. That’s part of what makes vintage-inspired new releases so popular among watch enthusiasts, especially for diving styles. Mido’s Ocean Star range has sat in this bracket, earning a good reputation for solidly built and classically handsome dive watches for their affordable cost; however, they toed the … ContinuedThe post The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.