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Tourbillon

Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.

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Hairspring

The coiled spring that controls the balance wheel; Huygens 1675, Breguet overcoil 1795.

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Daniel Roth

Designer behind modern Breguet 1973-89 and the eponymous Daniel Roth brand with its double-ellipse case.

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Breguet Numerals

The cursive italic Arabic numerals designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet ~1790; canonical haute-horlogerie dress watch numeral.

Introducing – The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Celebrates the Brand’s 250th Anniversary Monochrome
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Jun 26, 2025

Introducing – The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Celebrates the Brand’s 250th Anniversary

It will come as no surprise that the fourth instalment of Breguet’s 250th-anniversary celebrations honours Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most celebrated invention: the gravity-defying tourbillon. Following the Souscription, the Seconde Rétrograde and the Type XX Chronograph, the release of the latest celebratory watch coincides with the day and month Abraham-Louis Breguet obtained a patent for his tourbillon […]

Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon with Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 SJX Watches
Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon Jun 26, 2025

Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon with Tourbillon Sidéral 7255

Breguet celebrates a milestone by looking to the stars with the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, which is the brand’s first flying tourbillon and also dressed up with an aventurine enamel dial. The Tourbillon Sidéral is the brand’s latest anniversary edition – and the most complicated so far – coming after the Classique Souscription and more recent Type XX 2075BH. Initial Thoughts Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop only built between 40 to 49 tourbillons in his lifetime, explaining the mythical rarity of the mechanism in historical watchmaking. Now more tourbillons are built in a single day – possibly even by a single brand – than during Breguet’s entire lifetime. Consequently, the tourbillon is no longer regarded with the reverence it enjoyed for centuries. Tourbillons aren’t inherently special today, but still have appeal when executed well; the whole of the parts can be more than the sum of the parts. The Tourbillon Sidéral is executed well and appealing. Flying tourbillon aside, the rest of the watch is very good, though not ground breaking. As with Breguet’s other 250th anniversary models, the Tourbillon Sidéral is more interesting aesthetically than technically since the movement is derived from the longstanding Lemania calibre. That approach will change as the year’s end approaches as Breguet has something bigger in the pipeline. For now, the Tourbillon Sidéral is an excellent watch that may suffer under the weight of expectations, but per...

Introducing: The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Fratello
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Jun 26, 2025

Introducing: The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255

Breguet didn’t choose any random date for the release of the new Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255. June 26th marks the 224th anniversary of the tourbillon, one of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most notable inventions. Actually, June 26th, 1801, was when Breguet’s invention was patented. Inventor of the tourbillon Interestingly, in those first years around the patent, Breguet […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 to read the full article.

In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet SJX Watches
Breguet Abraham-Louis Breguet 1747-1823 stands Jun 23, 2025

In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet

Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) stands among the most revered names in horology, celebrated for innovations that shaped modern watchmaking. While his tourbillon, self-winding mechanism, and anti-shock system are widely acknowledged, his work in astronomical timekeeping, particularly equation of time (EOT) watches, remain one of Breguet’s most intricate yet less-explored achievements. With 2025 marking the 250th anniversary of his birth, this guide offers the most comprehensive study of every known EOT timepiece made during his lifetime, including pocket watch no. 160 “Marie Antoinette”, expanding on our prior analysis of the complication (in parts I and II). No. 160 as pictured at the recent exhibition in London’s Science Museum. Image – Baruch Coutts Looking at the stars Breguet operated in an era where precision timekeeping was dictated by astronomy, and his workshop, positioned at the heart of Paris’s scientific and commercial networks, was uniquely placed to serve scientists, navigators, and royalty who required accurate solar and mean time readings. Rather than settling on a single method for displaying and correcting the EOT, he explored multiple mechanical solutions, refining some while revisiting earlier ideas when necessary. His approach does not follow a strictly linear evolution but instead reflects a dynamic cycle of innovation, mechanical experimentation, and adaptation. Breguet’s cam-driven system with feeler to indicate EOT, as found in pocke...

Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches Fratello
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Jun 5, 2025

Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches

I wrote a lengthy review on the stainless steel Type XX Chronographe 2067 late last year. You can find (and read) it here. If you want to skip to the conclusion, I ended that review with the following paragraph: “I hope Breguet will introduce more variations of the modern Type XX that are closer to […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches to read the full article.

Breguet’s Latest Type XX is Vintage Inspired and No-Date SJX Watches
Breguet s Latest Type XX Jun 5, 2025

Breguet’s Latest Type XX is Vintage Inspired and No-Date

Following the Classique Souscription, and Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, Breguet continues its 250th anniversary roll-out by turning to its signature pilot’s watch. The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH debuts in two variants in “Breguet gold”: a regular production with a black aluminium dial and a 250-piece limited edition with a sterling silver dial. Both are handsome and stay mostly true to the model’s heritage thanks to faithful sizing and a manually-wound movement. The regular production with a black aluminium dial (left), and sterling silver dial of the limited edition Initial Thoughts The new Type XX ticks many of the boxes from an enthusiast’s perspective with its compact dial and concise dial that does without a date and hour totalizer – both welcome reductions to the first-generation design. That said, the Breguet gold case is limiting due to the price. A stainless steel case would’ve been even more appreciated, though that will probably arrive in due time. While the cal. 7278/7279 in the new Type XX is technically excellent – like most Breguet calibres – the thoroughly modern construction doesn’t complement the vintage-inspired design. Adapting the cal. 582 used in the 1990s Type XX might have been more interesting due to its lateral clutch construction and increasingly rare cam-control system, though the cal. 7278/7279 reads better on a spec sheet with its vertical clutch. And to preserve the vintage feel, a solid, hand-engraved case back might...

Introducing – The Compact, Hand-Wound Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 for the 250th Anniversary Monochrome
Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 Jun 4, 2025

Introducing – The Compact, Hand-Wound Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 for the 250th Anniversary

As we’ve explained already, Breguet, one of the most important brands in the industry, is celebrating this year its 250th anniversary, as its founder, the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, first registered his company in 1775. With this in mind, we can tell you that Breguet has already released several special edition watches, all done in its […]

Insight: The Overcoil Hairspring, From Breguet to Phillips SJX Watches
Breguet Jun 2, 2025

Insight: The Overcoil Hairspring, From Breguet to Phillips

While the invention of the spiral hairspring by Christiaan Huygens in 1675 kickstarted a revolution in terms of portable precision timekeeping, the concept was far from fully developed. It was arguably only with the later invention of the overcoil hairspring that the ideal oscillator in portable watches emerged. For many years horologists - theoreticians and artisans alike - worked to perfect the balance-hairspring assembly to optimise its performance, notably in terms of isochronism. True isochronism became a sort of holy grail for watchmakers all around the world, who all sought to ameliorate the inherent quirks of the sprung oscillator. The recent Breguet Soucription features an overcoil hairspring of non-magnetic Nivachron alloy The need for end curves The quest for isochronism was a true challenge for horologists. Isochronism is the ability of the balance-hairspring assembly the have the same period of oscillation for small and large amplitudes alike. In other words, the balance oscillation takes the same period of time regardless of the degree travelled. This is very important, since a balance usually swings with high amplitude with a fully wound mainspring and then runs at progressively smaller amplitude as the barrel unwinds. As a timepiece is required to keep good time regardless of  its winding state, an oscillator whose period is independent from its amplitude is needed. (Another solution to this is to optimise the energy delivery from the mainspring with a...

Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Souscription Breguet got May 30, 2025

Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription

Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces May 17, 2025

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035

Having already revealed the Tradition “Souscription” as the first watch for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has just launched the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. Essentially a throwback to a first-generation Tradition model, the new 7035 is set apart by its flinque enamel dial, a first for the Tradition collection. And unlike the regular-production Souscription, the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde is limited to 250 pieces. Initial thoughts While the Classique Souscription is eminently traditional (despite its case style), the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde feels more traditional Breguet with a style that is more typical of the brand’s current offerings. The enamel dial is a good way of rebooting the Tradition, which is now two decades old. And the watch itself is beautiful and still Breguet in style. However, this is arguably less interesting than the Souscription, because its only point of difference is the grand feu enamel dial for the time. Dial aside, it’s basically the preceding model in new dress. Breguet does have more in store for its 250th anniversary than a pair of Tradition models, so it’ll be worth keeping an eye on the brand as the year progresses. Tradition throwback The new Tradition is a variant of one of the first models in the collection, but upgraded with an enamel dial. The solid gold dial is decorated in flinque enamel, which is fired translucent enamel over engine turning in the Quai de l’Horloge pattern, which was developed for Breguet’...

Introducing – The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 for the Brand’s 250th Anniversary Monochrome
Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 May 16, 2025

Introducing – The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 for the Brand’s 250th Anniversary

As you might know now, after our initial article, Breguet is celebrating its 250th anniversary, and we’ll be seeing a fleet of new models released throughout the year, all made of 18k Breguet gold and paying tribute to some of the most important inventions of its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Initiated by the launch of the […]

Introducing: The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 Fratello
Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 May 16, 2025

Introducing: The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035

Just under a month ago, Breguet unveiled its stunning new Souscription 2025 watch, a remarkable addition to the collection that commemorates the company’s 250th anniversary. Now, we’re excited to introduce the second piece in what seems to be an impressive lineup of watches to expect in 2025. Meet the newest Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 to read the full article.

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No May 10, 2025

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1

In a surprising turn of events, the Breguet Sympathique no. 1 has been acquired by its primary creator, Francois-Paul Journe, for the princely sum of CHF5.51 million including fees (equivalent to US$6.61 million). Notably, Sympathique no. 1 sold for almost as much as the Sympathique made for the Duc d’Orléans. Completed in 1991 for the Art of Breguet thematic auction, the clock was completed in 1991 by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a complications workshop founded by Mr Journe, who also recruited Denis Flageollet and clockmaker Dominic Mouret. And now it will soon become one of the key exhibits in the upcoming F.P. Journe Museum, which will be located near its manufacture in downtown Geneva. Determined bidding The impressive result for the clock exceeded most expectations, including mine. I had expected a result in the region of CHF2.5 million. And in a bit of intrigue before the auction, F.P. Journe sent out an announcement to its clients before the auction stating that it would not repair or service Sympathique no. 1; the buyer of the clock would have to go to Breguet. Getting to the hammer price was not difficult, illustrating the strength of the F.P. Journe name today. While there were a handful of bidders under the million-franc mark, it was eventually down to a gentleman in the room and Mr Journe himself. Past the CHF2 million mark it then turned into a contest between a phone bidder represented by Alex Ghotbi and Mr Journe. Bidding proceeded at a stea...

In-Depth: The Breguet Sympathique, From the Duc d’Orléans to “No. 1” SJX Watches
Breguet Sympathique From May 7, 2025

In-Depth: The Breguet Sympathique, From the Duc d’Orléans to “No. 1”

This spring, one of the most important horological creations of the late twentieth century returns to public view. As part of The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI taking place on May 10 and 11, Phillips will offer the Breguet Sympathique No. 1, the first of twenty exceptional clocks commissioned by Breguet in the early 1990s. The primary creator of this landmark clock was none other than Francois-Paul Journe, then a young watchmaker. Completed in 1991 for the Art of Breguet auction, No. 1 is not just the prototype of the modern Sympathique series, it is its most ambitious. The example, paired with a tourbillon wristwatch, is equipped with a constant-force remontoir and moonphase display. In retrospect, it reads as a mechanical manifesto, foreshadowing Journe’s later independent work. More than a highlight of its upcoming sale, No. 1 represents a rare continuation of one of watchmaking’s great inventions, a direct link to Abraham-Louis Breguet himself. Detail of Sympathique no. 1 Of Breguet’s many breakthroughs, from the tourbillon to the pare-chute, none captured the marriage of mechanical brilliance and poetic vision quite like the Pendule Sympathique. Designed to wind, set, and regulate a paired watch automatically, it embodied a new kind of horological harmony: a master timekeeper caring for its portable counterpart. The calendar on Sympathique no. 1 By the late 20th century, these clocks had become near-mythical. Only a handful were ever built, most housed in royal coll...

Fratello On Air: The Latest News Including Breguet And Rolex Fratello
Breguet Apr 29, 2025

Fratello On Air: The Latest News Including Breguet And Rolex

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we cover the latest news on watches and other subjects. We discuss the 250th Anniversary of Breguet and several other high-end brands. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings It was a relatively quiet week on the […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Latest News Including Breguet And Rolex to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models Fratello
Breguet Models Apr 25, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models

This year is full of watch brands celebrating all kinds of anniversaries, but if there’s one with a milestone anniversary, it is Breguet. The house celebrates its 250th anniversary this year. Yesterday, the festivities began with the release of the new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. It’s a brilliant first step in a new direction under […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models to read the full article.

Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Turns Apr 25, 2025

Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription

The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...

First Look – The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025, Celebrating the Brand’s 250th Anniversary Monochrome
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Celebrating Apr 24, 2025

First Look – The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025, Celebrating the Brand’s 250th Anniversary

This year, one of the most important names in the watch industry is celebrating its 250th anniversary. I’m of course talking about Breguet, the brand created by the all-important Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1775, Quai de l’Horloge in Paris (even though he was Swiss, A.L. Breguet worked most of his life in Paris except during the […]