Deployant
Best of the Patek Philippe 2021 novelties
Other than the green dial 5711/1A, Patek Philippe has been busy with a furry of excellent novelties for 2021. Here are our picks for the best.
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Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Patek Philippe thread.
A Milan exclusive, a platinum case, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph that marks only the seventh such reference in Patek Philippe history
The 1932 Patek reference that set the template for every modern dress watch.
Gérald Genta's 1976 Patek sports watch. Sketched on a restaurant napkin at Baselworld 1974.
Deployant
Other than the green dial 5711/1A, Patek Philippe has been busy with a furry of excellent novelties for 2021. Here are our picks for the best.
SJX Watches
Though now often overlooked in favour of a luxury-sports watch, the Calatrava is perhaps the quintessential Patek Philippe – it was introduced in 1932 and named after the brand’s emblem – possessing a diversity of designs that all share an elegant simplicity. Patek Philippe’s second instalment of new watches at Watches & Wonders 2021 focus on fine, sophisticated wristwatches – it also just announced a striking new perpetual calendar – and naturally encompasses the Calatrava, which sees the addition of the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” ref. 6119. A tribute to well-known Calatrava models such as the ref. 3919 and its successor, the ref. 5119, the ref. 6119 blends several signature elements of past designs in a larger case to create a more contemporary guise that’s available in rose or white gold. Importantly, the ref. 6119 is powered by the newly-developed, hand-wind cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement with twin barrels – and an impressively high moment of inertia for the balance wheel. The cal. 30-255 PS Initial thoughts I’ve always been a fan of the Calatrava, especially variants with a hinged, “hunter” back like the ref. 5227. Best described as fine watches for gentlemen, they typify Patek Philippe’s traditional and refined approach to watchmaking. But the cases of previous generations of the Calatrava were relatively small – the ref. 3919 was 33 mm, while the ref. 5119 had a 36 mm case. And more recent models, like the 40 mm ref. 6007 int...
Revolution
Revolution
SJX Watches
Shortly after launching the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A in green, Patek Philippe is taking the covers off something far more serious in terms of mechanics – the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar. Clearly inspired by vintage perpetual calendar watches like the refs. 3448 and 3450 (and a dial that’s modelled on a vintage Calatrava), the ref. 5236P is ranks as amongst the most notable Patek Philippe calendar watches of recent years – both in terms of design as well as its newly-developed movement. Bearing a close resemblance to the ref. 5235 Annual Calendar – an under-appreciated watch that I regard highly – the new ref. 5236P is equipped with a built-from-scratch calendar module that’s as complicated as some entire perpetual calendar movements. And it is powered by a refined and improved version of the uncommon cal. 31-260 micro-rotor movement that was so far only found in the ref. 5235. The cal. 31-260 PS QL in the new ref. 5236 An under-dial view of the calendar mechanism with the four co-planar discs at top Initial thoughts While clearly inspired by historical designs, the ref. 5236P manages to be different – and the most compelling perpetual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. The design heritage is clear: the ref. 5236P shares the same case style as the ref. 5235 annual calendar (which I like). Admittedly the ref. 5236P perhaps a bit too big to be as elegant as Patek Philippe’s most refined cases, but the size combined with the distinctive design m...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s most coveted model line, the Nautilus was the focus of the four new launches at Watches & Wonders 2021. In addition to the ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial, the second new Nautilus for men is the Nautilus Travel-Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1R-001, a rich combination of a rose gold case with a deep blue dial. An ultra-luxe travel watch (that’s still a bit more affordable than the recent Greubel Forsey GMT Sport), the ref. 5990 has been one of the most complicated models in the Nautilus line since its introduction in 2014. First launched in stainless steel with a black dial, the ref. 5990 was an instant hit due to its good looks and practicality – and the fact that it’s a Nautilus. Initial thoughts In rose gold case with a blue dial, rendered in a shade of blue similar to that of the original ref. 5711/1A, the new ref. 5990/1R-001 is a good-looking timepiece that no doubt looks and feels like a luxury-sports watch, albeit more luxury than sports. If the steel ref. 5990/1A wasn’t not luxe enough, this ought to do the trick. Leaving aside the fact that it’s a Nautilus, hence an ultra fashionable watch that’s near impossible to get, the ref. 5990 is appealing in its intrinsic qualities, regardless of material. Despite the complications, the ref. 5990 is actually svelte, just 12.53 mm high, making it one of the slimmer flyback chronographs on the market – and it also incorporates a second time zone function. Add to that the fine finishing of...
SJX Watches
Perhaps the world’s most desirable wristwatch, the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A became even more sought after when was made known earlier this year that the model would be discontinued. To give it a proper send-off, the brand is now unveiling the final iteration of the Nautilus in steel, this time with an olive green dial. The base model, if it can be called that, is the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014, but the model will also be available with a diamond-set bezel as the Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001, which is notable for being the first time Patek Philippe is setting diamonds on a steel men’s watch. The Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014 And the Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001 Initial thoughts Green seems to be the new blue, and Patek Philippe is very much on board the bandwagon with its new Nautilus ref. 5711/1A – though it’s arguable Patek Philippe is helping start the trend just because the Nautilus is, well, the Nautilus. Already impossible to get, at least at the affordable retail price, the steel Nautilus will definitely be the rarest in green, out of all three variants (the others being the original blue dial, and the later white dial) and thus the most covetable. In essence, the new Nautilus is just a facelift. The case, movement, and bracelet remain the same – the only change is the olive green dial, which retains the signature, horizontal-stamped pattern. But given the impending discontinuation of the ref. 5711/1A, the mere fact there’s a new model has sent everyone into ...
Revolution
Patek Philippe’s outgoing steel Nautilus 5711 is given one last hurrah with an olive green dial for its end of series edition, the reference 5711/1A-014
Time+Tide
The watch world collectively held its breath when rumours started circulating about the possible demise of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, arguably the hottest watch on the planet right now. Rumours turned to facts when Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern confirmed that the fabled luxury sports watch would indeed be discontinued, but it put no … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Four new Patek Philippe Nautilus references including two with green dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Of late, eBay has been making serious strides into the pre-owned watch market and they certainly aren’t slowing down. They recently started a new Instagram account dedicated solely to watch content and just a few months ago announced their Authenticity Guarantee program to verify watches sold for $2000USD and over. This week eBay is offering … ContinuedThe post 8 affordable watches on eBay right now for under $5k, including Patek Philippe and Jacob & Co appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A legendary watch long known to the market – and widely expected to reemerge – is finally coming to market. The one-off Patek Philippe ref. 3448 without a moon phase will be offered by Christie’s during its upcoming Hong Kong watch auction on May 22, 2021. This unique ref. 3448 was custom made for Alan Banbery, and is distinguished by the red leap-year indicator that replaces the conventional moon phase display. Though there are a few other known examples of the ref. 3448 without a moon phase – nicknamed “Senza Luna”, Italian for “without moon” – the Banbery watch is the only one with robust provenance, detailed documentation, and crucially, the under-dial mechanism for the leap-year display. An Englishman who was the longtime head of sales at Patek Philippe until his retirement in 2001. Still living near Geneva, Mr Banbery is probably best known as having helped Philippe Stern assemble the magnificent collection of clocks and watches that make up the Patek Philippe Museum, while also being one of the coauthors of the Patek Philippe, Geneve reference books alongside the late Munich watch retailer Martin Huber. During a 2017 meeting with Mr Banbery at the La Reserve hotel in Geneva, he recounted the origins of his ref. 3448. According to Mr Banbery, he had the idea of a ref. 3448 without a moon phase and took it to Patek Philippe watchmaker Max Berney, who then modified a standard ref. 3448, replacing the moon phase with a leap year display. He was gifted...
Quill & Pad
Versatility was at the top of Patek Philippe’s thoughts when the firm designed the Twenty~4. The goal was to achieve “a beautiful expression of today's contemporary woman” by creating a watch that can accompany women all day long. Hence the “24” in its name. Martin Green takes us through 20+ years of this now-iconic pillar collection.
Time+Tide
Confession time: I do not have the largest wrists in the world. Last time I checked, my wrist circumference came in not far above six inches. That being said, I wear watches ranging from 32mm to 43mm in diameter because, as I have explained before, it really is more about lug-to-lug when it comes to … ContinuedThe post From Patek Philippe to Tudor – 10 of the best watches under 40mm (Part 1) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...
Time+Tide
Many of us, myself included, have the 5711 steel Nautilus cemented onto our watch grail wish-list. Now, the infamous eight year waiting-list you’d have to endure after ordering one is no more. Patek Philippe’s top selling reference is being discontinued, and many a collector on an exclusive AD list will return to square one, with … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Patek Philippe’s decision to kill their most popular product is a business masterstroke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe is starting the year on a simple note, with its first releases for 2021 being a trio of additions to the Twenty-4 collection for ladies. One is the Twenty-4 Quartz in rose gold with a brown dial, a variant of the recently introduced Twenty-4 “Manchette”, while the other two are mechanical: new references of the Twenty-4 Automatic with green or gold dials. The green dial of the new Twenty-4 Automatic in steel Initial thoughts With all the hype surrounding the now-discontinued Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, it can be easy to forget that Patek Philippe actually makes a broad range of watches, including a collection for ladies that has now been in the catalogue for over 20 years (though the automatic version only came along in 2018). The new Twenty-4 models are variants of the same, but the automatic Twenty-4 with a green dial is unusual and an appealing alternative to the bestselling and faddish blue dial. While the styling might be uninspiring for a watch enthusiast, the Twenty-4 is ideal for someone who wants a Patek Philippe that’s fuss free, explaining the consistent commercial success of the Twenty-4 over the decades. The Twenty-4 Quartz The Twenty-4 Automatic Both versions of the Twenty-4 are pricey, sitting at the top end of their respective segments. The new Twenty-4 Automatic in steel retails for US$27,796, about the same as the Nautilus ref. 7118/1A for ladies, or the recently-launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34 mm. The Twenty-4 has the advantage o...
Quill & Pad
Given GaryG's musings on these pages about the relative roles of rarity and complication in driving the value of a watch, he thinks it appropriate to dedicate this “Behind the Lens” entry to a piece that is both complicated and limited in production: Patek Philippe’s Reference 5950A. What’s so special about this watch? Well, first of all it’s a split-seconds chronograph. What else?
SJX Watches
While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...
Time+Tide
When you think of art in watchmaking, your mind probably turns to the painstaking creation of a cloisonné enamel dial for a Patek Philippe World Time, or the engraving of an A.Lange & Söhne balance cock. But art in watchmaking suddenly got a whole lot more accessible thanks to the Swatch x MoMA collection that … ContinuedThe post The new Swatch x MoMA releases offer fresh proof that watches can be a work of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Yessir, the cone of silence surrounding the manufacture of Patek Philippe has lifted twice in a week. The brand are surfing atop of a media wave of their own making. Only last week we reported first on the discontinuation of the already near-impossible to get Nautilus ref. 5711, and in our story here we shared … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe sales in 2020 down by 20% is not any kind of big deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There’s no Baselworld this year, but in April we will have the “phygital” Watches & Wonders to look forward to. Thirty-four brands will be in attendance, among them Rolex and Patek Philippe – two horological heavyweights whose potential novelties will, as always, be eagerly awaited. Back in September we saw Rolex refresh the Submariner collection, … ContinuedThe post Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s been a busy week, both in the watch world and out. A few hours ago it was announced that Melbourne will be going back into lockdown (thankfully for only five days) and earlier in the week we heard more details from Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern about the discontinuation of the Nautilus ref. 5711. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Patek Philippe President speaks on the retirement of the Nautilus 5711 and the Bamford x T+T GMT1 has been spotted in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
High-profile break-ups are generally only good news for the paparazzi and divorce lawyers. But auction houses can sometimes become the beneficiary of a celebrity split, too. Russell Crowe good-naturedly named the Sotheby’s Australia auction for some of his belongings “The Art of Divorce” back in 2018, and this year a split between Phil Collins and … ContinuedThe post Looking for the cheapest Patek Philippe Nautilus on the market? Head to the next auction of Phil Collins’ ex-wife appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Patek Philippe releases three new models in their exquisite and feminine Twenty~4 line of timepieces just in time for Valentine’s Day.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: There is no official confirmation regarding the launch of a Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus. Anything written below is pure speculation weighing up the potential veracity of the current rumours and is not representative of any correspondence with Patek Philippe. Watch forums are always rampant with watch mock-ups and predictions. The guessing game, in … ContinuedThe post Predictions: How feasible is the supposed Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus “leak” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Times are changing and for the better. For the ladies’ watch category, the marketplace has traditionally taken the course of shrink it, pink it and bling it. We too often used to see watches utilising quartz movements, not that there’s necessarily anything wrong with quartz, but the assumption seemed to be that women were not … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Patek Philippe Twenty-4 ladies collection will create serious watch envy in men appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Young Canadian watchmaker Bradley Taylor has just made his debut with the Paragon. Having trained as a watchmaker in Switzerland, as well as gaining Patek Philippe and Hublot watchmaking certification, Mr Taylor’s eponymous brand grew out of his earlier venture, a two-man partnership similarly focused on a concise, well-executed watch. Very much a made-in-Canada wristwatch, the Paragon is a classical time-only that’s assembled and partially finished by Mr Taylor in his home workshop. Mr Taylor produces the hands himself, while most of the other components are produced by specialists in Switzerland, including Comblémine, the dial maker owned by Kari Voutilainen. But Mr Taylor has been careful to incorporate local details into the watch. Canadian graphic designer Ian Brignell was responsible for the Paragon’s Arabic numerals, and even the square-slot case back screws are Canadian in origin. The Paragon in purple and pale blue Initial thoughts There are times when it feels like the luxury-watch has become too successful for its own good – endless waitlists and steep price premiums for the hottest watches, as well as astronomical results at auction. At the same time, consumers often seem more concerned with resale value rather than the intrinsic value of craft. So it’s heartening to see the rise of niche independent watchmakers in the US$20,000-ish price range, such as Kikuchi Nakagawa, and now Bradley Taylor. Their work reminds me what watchmaking can be – the...
Time+Tide
Melbourne isn’t known as a hotbed of horological activity. Indeed, Patek Philippe was founded more than a decade earlier than Melbourne was even recognised as a city. But that hasn’t stopped Melbourne watchmaker John Robert Wristwatches announcing their Archetype collection this week that’s inspired by the dress watches of the 1950s and 60s only with … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: New Australian brand John Robert Wristwatches introduces the “dressy tool watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Earlier this week, it was reported that Patek Philippe had discontinued the hottest luxury watch on the market after 15 years: the Nautilus 5711/A. The news was rather shocking when you consider the fact the watch commanded a speculated eight year waitlist – and that is assuming you had earned the privilege of being added … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 discontinued, market price climbs 50% within a week! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When a watch enthusiast approaches a timepiece, they usually ask about specifications like case diameter or movement caliber first. Most people, however, will first want to know the price. It can prove a bit of a shock that such a small object can have such a high price tag. It is no secret that luxury … ContinuedThe post Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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