Hodinkee
One To Watch: Historic Jump Hour Manufacturer Niton Relaunches With A Blend Of Vintage And Modern Style With The 'Prima'
This is not your average jump hour; it's a watch with a lot of history and more hidden under the hood.
2,239 articles · 52 videos found · page 47 of 77
Saint-Imier watchmaker who founded Heuer (now TAG Heuer) in 1860; patented the oscillating pinion 1887.
TAG Heuer (1999), Zenith (1999), Hublot (2008), Bulgari (2011), plus Louis Vuitton in-house and Tiffany & Co. Bernard Arnault\'s Paris-based group.
The 1969 Heuer square chronograph. Worn by Steve McQueen in Le Mans.
Jack Heuer's 1963 Carrera. The template for every modern motorsport chronograph.
Hodinkee
This is not your average jump hour; it's a watch with a lot of history and more hidden under the hood.
Monochrome
Hanhart’s history is tied to pilots’ chronographs, and the so-called “Moby Dick” occupies a special place in the brand’s story. Most vintage 417 chronographs came with dark dials, but a very small number were produced with white dials for civilian use. Over time, fans adopted the nickname “Moby Dick” because of their appearance and rarity. […]
Monochrome
Petermann Bédat is an independent watchmaking brand based in Renens, near Lausanne. The founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, first met at the Geneva Watchmaking School. After gaining experience at prestigious houses such as A. Lange & Söhne, Harry Winston and Andersen Genève, or restoring vintage timepieces, they decided to create their own brand. The […]
Worn & Wound
Virtually every watch enthusiast is familiar with Art Deco, even if they don’t know it. Art Deco, short for Arts décoratifs, first appeared in Paris in the 1910s and spread across the globe over the following two decades. You may not be familiar with Art Deco’s principles - bold geometric forms and streamlined, mechanical aesthetics, among them - but you are almost assuredly familiar with some of its most famous designs, like the Cartier Tank and JLC Reverso. Worn & Wound contributor and Art Deco enthusiast Christoph McNeill considers Art Deco “the pinnacle of design,” and says he loves the beauty of the Machine Age design movement’s expression of curves and lines, obsession with mechanical aesthetics, and “streamline” nature. Wristwatches, which became popular about the same time Art Deco came onto the scene, was a natural medium for Art Deco design. “Because they’re little, tiny machines, right? said McNeill. “It sort of went hand-in-hand.” Vintage Art Deco watches from Christoph’s personal collection So, what does Art Deco design look like in watches? “It means clean lines, very specific fonts,” said watch collector and seller extraordinaire Eric Wind. “I think of a lot of rectangles, squares, things like that. Less round, unless it’s round within a rectangle. A lot of black on silver. I think of that kind of high shine chrome when I think about Deco as well. More silver than gold.” Wind cites “a lot of Pateks from the 20s and ...
Hodinkee
White's sterling silver tribute to vintage design honors Art Deco principles while feeling contemporary.
Fratello
One of last year’s biggest horological surprises for me was the Singer Divetrack, an incredible piece of engineering and design by Singer Reimagined founder Marco Borraccino. But I also quickly realized that its price of CHF 85,000 meant I could only admire it from a distance. That’s fine; I don’t need to own everything I […] Visit Hot Take: The Vintage-Valjoux-Powered Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph to read the full article.
Fratello
Late last year, I had the opportunity to go hands-on with the Maen collection for the first time. I’d heard of the brand but had only seen photographs. I was highly impressed with the case finishing, dials, and bracelets. Best of all, the watches felt far more expensive than their price tags suggested. With today’s […] Visit Introducing: The Maen × Nico Leonard Jump Hour to read the full article.
Fratello
Seiko has released a flurry of special and limited Seiko 5 models since the collection staged a comeback in 2019. Today marks the debut of a new model, the Seiko 5 Mooneyes Limited Edition. Fans of hot-rodding culture in Japan, America, and worldwide should find this one fun. Mooneyes is a supplier of custom car […] Visit Hot Take: The Seiko 5 Sports Mooneyes Limited Edition SRPL39 to read the full article.
Fratello
Ceramic is a material that has been used in watches for decades. It comes with some significant advantages over more traditional stainless steel. However, there are also a couple of issues to consider. Recently, I spent a significant amount of time with the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic RAAF (ref. IW3281-02). This is a modern interpretation […] Visit Looking To Buy A Ceramic Watch? Here Are The Benefits And Potential Downsides to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
With the release of their Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour watch in 2024, Fears built on the already elegant jump hour platform that debuted with their Alliance 01, built in collaboration with Christopher Ward in 2023. Continuing this form, the Bristol-based company has announced the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Edwardian Edition’ to celebrate British Watchmaker’s Day 2025. Limited to 10 pieces and available exclusively at the British Watchmaker’s Day event on Saturday, March 8th, the Edwardian Edition features much of the same elegance as its predecessors, albeit with a few special details. The full-polished sterling silver case-Fears’ second such case in 100 years-wears a London Assay Hallmark, Fears’ own maker’s mark, and a flawless diamond-set crown, while the strap sports a matching sterling silver buckle. Like the original Brunswick Jump Hour, the Edwardian Edition is powered by the Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module, which features automatic winding and a 38-hour power reserve. What sets the Edwardian Edition apart, though, is the stunning, hand-polished white lacquer dial, which features numerals and a Fears’ logo derived from the brand’s Edwardian-era pocket watches; a hand-varnished and diamond-cut glossy black minute hand pops against the multi-layer lacquer. In addition to the dial, an exclusive heritage-inspired hour disc and a maple red Alcantara strap (lined with English Tan calf leather) further elevate the Edwardian Edition. Each watch ...
Fratello
The trend of rereleasing vintage digital watches continues with the new Hamilton PSR 74. During the past several years, Casio, Girard-Perregaux, and Hamilton have led the charge with faithful yet modern renditions of their ’70s digital creations. These watches blend simple displays with retro-futuristic cases and bracelets. The new PSR follows this form but adds […] Visit Hot Take: The Hamilton PSR 74 - A Faithful New Version Of The Pulsar Cushion to read the full article.
Fratello
Seiko’s SKX007 dive watch is a modern classic. Today, we’re looking at a different and, I’ll argue, better-looking version. The watch is known as the Seiko SKX173. Read on. Recently, I wrote about Seiko’s SKX007 dive watch. This was not a review, per se, but an assessment of the SKX007’s role in 2024. The article […] Visit The Seiko SKX173: A Lesser-Known Take On The SKX007 Dive Watch With A Neo-Vintage Dial Design to read the full article.
Fratello
The allure of searching vintage and antique shops is strong for me. There is something about the appreciation for things from the past that resonates. Recently, on a trip to one such shop, I discovered a vintage Oris watch in an old suitcase. I saw it glistening inside the morass of trinkets and discarded objects […] Visit Treasure Hunting: Finding An Old Art Deco Oris Watch In A Suitcase to read the full article.
Time+Tide
We reached out to our Instagram community once again to answer a long-looming question.The post All the bang, but not enough bucks. Here are the watches you can’t justify buying appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
After a successful three-watch collaborative effort last year, the guys from Furlan Marri are back, remaining true to their creative nature. Instead of riffing off their existing catalog, the new Furlan Marri Disco Volante genuinely surprised me. Small brands tend to find a stable recipe for success and stick to it. And this is true […] Visit Hands-On With The New Furlan Marri Disco Volante - An Intricate Dress Watch With A Different Take On Vintage to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A hopeless vintage romantic argues for in the case of vintage sports watches. As usual though, there are asterisks.The post Hotter take: vintage sports watches are tougher than you (and Zach) think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
At Fratello, we focus on watches, and 99.9% of the time, that means ones for the wrist. However, it’s interesting that the wristwatch is still in its relative infancy. It was the pocket watch that loomed large in prior centuries. Today, we’ll look at two gems from the twilight of the pocket watch era. These […] Visit Vintage Watches: Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot to read the full article.
Time+Tide
While the watch-collecting world covets and lusts after vintage sports watches, Zach explains why they may be better to appreciate than own.The post Hot take: vintage sports watches are great to look at, but horrible to own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Japanese watchmaker has introduced a new series within the Seiko 5 family, which pays homage to the past but somehow feels very natural in the present. Seiko is one of those few brands for which an enthusiast can buy a very humble automatic watch. Or a mechanical marvel with very tight tolerances that competes […] Visit Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
District Time may need a new home. The Washington, DC watch fair was held for the sixth time at the start of March, and its record attendance made the District Architecture Center feel more cramped than it has in the past. Every bit of wall was lined with a booth showcasing an independent watch brand. Some are big enough or popular enough you might recognize the name–Christopher Ward, Formex, Rado–while others are true microbrands. “It’s grown a bit every year, minus the COVID years,” said Nate DeNicola, a contributor to one of the event’s organizers, the Time Bum. “One of the cool things about this year is there are a few established microbrands that are here for the first time. Bourbon out of New Orleans; Foliot out of New York; Dufrane from Austin, Texas. So it’s really become kind of the east coast watch show for a lot of these micro and independent brands.” DeNicola was there not just representing the Time Bum, but running the booth for another one of those microbrands: Bremoir, an Art Deco-inspired watch brand that takes design cues from 1920s American architecture. Watch fans are familiar with the major brands and their offerings, but events like District Time allow enthusiasts the chance to discover watchmakers they’d never heard of who are still providing high-quality products but have the flexibility to experiment more with their watches. Bremoir’s vintage design is unlike anything on the market right now, and it was difficult to even get th...
Time+Tide
Some watches far exceed the expectations set by their price tags.The post Which watches punch above their weight class? Here’s what you had to say appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
An idea that we return to frequently around here is the ability of Zenith, moreso than just about any other Swiss brand with a lengthy, complex history, to straddle the line between heritage and pushing forward with daring, contemporary designs. Think of almost any other brand with roots dating to the late 19th or early 20th century that is still making watches, and chances are they focus largely on paying respect to the past, or they have moved on and iterated in some way. Zenith, on parallel tracks, does both, and I think one of the reasons they’re able to do that so successfully is that pushing the envelope aesthetically is part of their heritage. The Defy line is the most obvious example of this, and with this new Defy Extreme reference, Zenith continues to define what it means to be a Defy in the first place with a bold new take on their high spec chronograph that is as much sculpture as it is horology. The Defy Extreme Mirror, as the of the watch would imply, is all mirrored surfaces, creating a unique and highly reflective effect that is actually almost the antithesis of what we’ve previously seen from the Extreme line. This, after all, is Zenith’s most hardcore sports watch, and is frequently seen in rugged, blacked out cases made from tech forward materials. The Defy Extreme Mirror, however, is stainless steel, and has been given a mirror polish on every surface that is meant to evoke the appearance of chrome. It’s objectively decorative, but the highly ...
Time+Tide
Ball outfits their vintage-inspired Skindiver with an in-house calibre and a super-hard case coating.The post Take a dark plunge with the Ball Engineer II Skindiver Heritage Manufacture Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Boasting a familiar octagonal form housing an innovative in-house movement, it's a bold first attempt from a brand (and country) little known to the world.The post The Duke Clarity Tourbillon is a luxurious Luxembourgish salute to Genta watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches returns this week with a look at a trio of divers that take their inspiration from the past, and apply in a thoroughly modern way. No faux lume or tropical dials in sight, prompting us to wonder if that trend is behind us. Divers from Oris, Tudor, and Seiko all paint a clear picture of a way forward that’s not a carbon copy of the past. You might say Seiko has always been ahead in that game, and their latest Prospex divers, which bring the 62MAS flavor into a tidy modern skindiver case that we’ve loved since it was released in 2020. If this is what we can expect more of, count us in. Elsewhere, Farer dropped a pair of new chronographs called the Chrono-Contempo with colorways inspired by two vibrant streets found in London. These are Farer through and through, with unexpected colors and a clean, modern design language. As usual, Farer nails the proportions here thanks to their use of the hand wound SW510M from Sellita. Finally, a collaboration between our friends at Fratello and Minase comes together for the second time, continuing a trend of subtle yet powerful dial executions from the pair. The latest is the M-3 Nori, and gets a dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, which comes together way better than you might expect. Here’s to the next one. The post A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
If you had told me a few weeks ago that Louis Erard’s new collaboration with Amr Sindi, AKA, The Horophile, would be an Art Deco inspired watch with a quite literal approximation of the Empire State Building within the handset, I probably would have let out an audible groan. Not because I don’t have faith in Louis Erard (their run of limited editions over the past few years is basically a parade of nonstop hits) or The Horophile (whose Instagram feed reveals his exceptional taste), but because it just all seems so on-the-nose. Art Deco inspired designs are a pretty niche interest in 2023, but calling out the Empire State Building, perhaps the single most well known symbol of the design and architecture movement as a major point of reference, seems to me like a recipe for something that you’d find in the building’s gift shop. Well, I should have known better. Because the new watch from Louis Erard is beautifully subtle, and surprisingly modern in its sensibility. The Petite Seconde Metropolis incorporates a number of Art Deco hallmarks into a clean design that takes advantage of a Louis Erard platform that we’re starting to see used more frequently. As you might expect given the Art Deco themes, there was a large focus on the typeface used for the hours around the dial’s perimeter. Each numeral is very subtly “openworked,” and they’re presented in an uncommon circular fashion, which mimics the circular motif at the dial’s center. Importantly, these hou...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style. The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...
Time+Tide
Will Patek Philippe ever introduce a Nautilus ref. 5811/1A? Will Rolex ever debut a Submariner in RLX titanium? These are questions with uncertain answers. But one thing that is certain is #watchfam having strong opinions. Nothing gets by watch enthusiasts and, with each new release, a flurry of passionate comments on Instagram is inevitable. So, … ContinuedThe post We asked you for your controversial watch opinions – here are some standouts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Oh the fear of missing out (or FOMO as the kids say) is real. As I scroll through Instagram stalking the GS9 Club events around the world, I can’t help but ask why? Why am I not there sipping on sake, fondling Grand Seiko after Grand Seiko? When is Australia launching our very own GS9 … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko GS9 Club for Australia and New Zealand is finally here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
T3 Special Watches made its debut in 2021 with the Dague, a watch designed to embody the aesthetic preferences of its Italian founders, vintage watch dealer Andrea Marzari and watch aficionado Alessandro Poggi. Inspired by the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 and livened up with colourful, “Stella” style dials, the Dague has now been given an artisanal touch with the Dague Time Dragon and the Dague Guilloché. The newest iterations illustrate the brand’s ambitious attempts at fine enamelling and guilloché – the brand recruited noted enameller Vanessa Lecci for the cloisonné dial – techniques typically seen on pieces from more established brands. Initial thoughts In the realm of micro-brands, it is uncommon to find traditional and artisanal guilloché and enamelling due to their high cost. Therefore, it was surprising to see T3 partnering with enameller Vanessa Lecci, renowned for her exceptional work for establishment brands like Cartier, Parmigiani Fleurier, Vacheron Constantin, and Voutilainen. The initial Dague series had a pleasant design that was not truly captivating for anyone not inclined towards a retro, Italian style. However, the new series showcases a significantly more compelling aesthetic. The enamelled dial of the Time Dragon, juxtaposed with the sector-styled outer disc, creates a visually striking contrast highly reminiscent of vintage watches with cloisonné dials made by Patek Philippe and Rolex. It would be exciting to witness the brand’...
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