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Wiki · Guide
El Primero Zenith

Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).

Wiki · Guide
LVMH Watches

TAG Heuer (1999), Zenith (1999), Hublot (2008), Bulgari (2011), plus Louis Vuitton in-house and Tiffany & Co. Bernard Arnault\'s Paris-based group.

Gallery · Guide
Zenith Gallery Zenith

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Zenith thread.

Icon · Guide
El Primero Zenith

The 1969 36,000 vph automatic chronograph saved from the quartz crisis by Charles Vermot.

HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration Time+Tide
Cartier Baume & Mercier Aug 23, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration

After working for lofty brands such as Cartier, Baume & Mercier, and Zenith, Brice Jaunet needed to forge his own path. Briston was founded to be the culmination of his experience, as well as a blend of French and British styles to represent both his homeland and university days. Small watch brands can sometimes struggle … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Norqain Wild ONE Gets the Skeleton Treatment Worn & Wound
Norqain Wild ONE Gets Jul 20, 2023

The Norqain Wild ONE Gets the Skeleton Treatment

This one seems like it was bound to happen. When Norqain unveiled the Wild ONE last year and hailed it as a next-gen, materials focused sports watch, it seemed clear that we’d get some ultra modern dial executions down the line to match the tech in the case. I was a pretty big fan of the first batch of Wild ONEs, but if there was an element that seemed a little “off” to me it was the dial. The repeating Norqain logo motif just didn’t seem to match the visual tone and vibe of the rest of the watch. I couldn’t quite put my finger on what would make it better, but with the new skeletonized version that was recently unveiled, I think they have the Wild ONE heading in the right direction.  Right off the bat, I realize this might be a somewhat controversial take. When Blake went hands-on with the Wild ONE earlier this year, one of his chief gripes was legibility. That concern is not likely to be abated with a dial that’s perhaps even more of an eye-chart, but in my opinion it “fits” the spirit of the watch a little better. While Norqain is ostensibly selling these as adventure watches for all manner of outdoor activities, to me they feel more in line with stylish, contemporary headturners like the Zenith Defy, or even watches in the Royal Oak Offshore line. Capable, yes, but designed to be gawked at more than anything.  The new Wild ONE Skeleton comes in two variants. One with a burgundy NORTEQ case with gold dial accents, and the other with a black NORTEQ case...

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Treads Familiar Ground With The Twelve Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Jun 8, 2023

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Treads Familiar Ground With The Twelve

‘Integrated bracelet sport watch’ is likely a term you’re getting sick of hearing. The genre has reached a saturation point, it would seem. However, some of the new watches that find themselves in this category are indeed quite compelling. Watches like the new IWC Ingenieur, the Zenith Defy Skyline, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, and most recently, a surprising entry from Christopher Ward called The Twelve, which we introduced to you when it was launched heading into our Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco. With this watch, Christopher Ward is staking a claim to the genre outside of its usual luxury connotations. Where the IWC, the Zenith, and the G-P (as well as many others) are priced around $10,000 or more, The Twelve hits the market in the much more palatable $1,000 range. The Twelve is well positioned to capitalize on the trend of the integrated bracelet sport watch in a way many others in this price range are not. They’ve built plenty of equity in the space, and have even brought some typically high-end collectors into their flock with the likes of the Bel-Canto. Where that watch embraced a level of originality, The Twelve is a direct interpretation of a well trodden design language, and Christopher Ward makes no bones about it being exactly that. In fact, whatever your thoughts on the watch itself, there’s something admirable about the recognition Christopher Ward is giving some of the all-time greats of the genre, while at the same time placing their own w...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph SLGC001

Grand Seiko made a big splash at last year’s Watches & Wonders with the launch of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, the brand’s first complicated mechanical wristwatch. For 2023, the brand is back with another first-time complication that will likely be one of the most talked-about watches of the show, the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. The first purely mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph ever, the Tentagraph is a high-spec sports chronograph that fills a hole in the Grand Seiko portfolio. “Tentagraph” is a portmanteau of the four key features of the watch: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and of course, the chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph is an important watch for Grand Seiko that enables the brand to stand toe to toe with Rolex, Omega, Zenith, Breitling, and other stalwarts in the popular category of mechanical sports chronograph. Not only is the category a hitherto untapped commercial opportunity for Grand Seiko, it is an opportunity for the brand to demonstrate its technical know-how and ambition. In this context, I would have expected the brand to release an integrated chronograph movement, perhaps based on the 6S movement family. But Grand Seiko has chosen to build a modular chronograph calibre based on the 9SA5, the flagship Grand Seiko automatic movement introduced in 2020, signalling the brand’s commitment to the calibre and its proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. My colleague Richard Lee notes that the 9S...

Excelsior Park Introduces “The Soda Fountain” for Perpétuel SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Feb 14, 2023

Excelsior Park Introduces “The Soda Fountain” for Perpétuel

Since it was founded three years ago, Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel has released a number of well-applauded limited editions focused on up-and-coming independents and micro brands. It first began with the French brand Baltic through a limited release of the HMS and Bicompax, and more recently, the MR-01 Perpétuel, their spin on the brand’s best-selling micro-rotor wristwatch. The retailer has now tapped the services of Excelsior Park, a legacy brand that is based on the former watch company known for producing chronograph movements for the likes of Gallet, Girard-Perregaux and Zenith. After numerous failed attempts at reviving the brand in the 1980s and the 2000s, it was relaunched by watch industry veteran Guillaume Laidet who previously spearheaded the resurrection of legacy brands Nivada Grenchen and, more recently, Vulcain. After releasing a limited edition with a salmon dial that immediately sold out last year, they have teamed up once again to debut their latest collaboration in The Soda Fountain Edition, a limited release of the Excelsior EP95004 chronograph featuring a vibrant blue dial completed with applied Eastern-Arabic numerals. Initial thoughts The relaunch of Excelsior Park two years ago was kind of a godsend for vintage watch enthusiasts, given its long and rich history as a renowned movement maker. Since its rebirth, the brand has been carving itself a niche market catering towards a younger demographic who desire that vintage-styled watches but a...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Feb 5, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 35: What’s Old is New Again

It’s time for episode 35 of A Week in Watches! This week, Zach Weiss is back with some new, old releases. Well, they are all new versions of watches that have existed before, to be more accurate. There’s a stunning urushi dial from Grand Seiko, a cool collab from Synchron, a funky Zenith, and some unabashedly bold Citizens. This week’s episode is sponsored by Whatnot, a live-stream auction app where you can buy and sell unique items. Join the Windup Watch Shop on Tuesday, February 7th ET, where they will be showing and selling various items from the shop, including the Zodiac x Rowing Blazer Sea Wolf and ADPT Series 1 Watches. There will be giveaways, auctions, and more! Follow this link to sign up for Whatnot and get $15 in credit toward your first purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 35: What’s Old is New Again appeared first on Worn & Wound.

RedBar and Bamford Combine Carbon Fiber Monopusher Chrono with Mystery Dials in Latest Collaboration Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Feb 2, 2023

RedBar and Bamford Combine Carbon Fiber Monopusher Chrono with Mystery Dials in Latest Collaboration

Customizing luxury watches used to be an untouchable subject. But in this day and age, that sort of thinking is a thing of the past. More and more, we’ve been seeing different companies center their services around customizing individual timepieces. And it’s not just the consumer broadening their horizons. The major players in the industry have also shifted their thoughts on other creatives taking a crack at designing their watches. One name that has earned the trust of brands like Franck Mueller, Zenith, and TAG Heuer is the Bamford Watch Department. We already know that if George Bamford, founder of the Bamford Watch Department (BWD), is attaching his name to a customization or collaborative project, we’re getting something that is totally unique. Whether it’s the clever use of bold colors, well-known cartoon characters, or alternative materials, George Bamford has a proven track record with charmingly incorporating each of these features (and sometimes all three at the same time) into every watch that delivers from the BWD. The latest brand to tap into the design mind of Bamford is the world-renowned collecting community known as the RedBar Group. The new collaborative piece between the RedBar Group and the Bamford Watch Department goes by the name of the RedBar x Bamford B347. The first draw here is the forged carbon fiber case. The black case has this familiar white swirly pattern, and thanks to the way the composite material is made, each case will have its o...

Longines Ultra-Chron: The World's First High-Frequency Dive Watch Retu Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Feb 1, 2023

Longines Ultra-Chron: The World's First High-Frequency Dive Watch Retu

The Longines Ultra-Chron takes its most direct inspiration from a dive watch the brand introduced in 1968, but it also represents the culmination of Longines’ expertise in making high-frequency watch movements, which goes back more than 100 years. Longines’ century-plus quest for high-frequency timekeeping precision started in 1914, when it produced the first hand-held stopwatches (like the one below) with movements that measured time to 1/10 second thanks to their high-frequency movement, Caliber 19.73N, whose balance wheel oscillated at 36,600 vph. It continued with a modification of that caliber to achieve an astonishing rate of 360,000 vph, and a stopwatch accuracy of 1/100 second, in 1916; hit a new milestone with the launch of the Observatory Chronometer in 1959, the first wristwatch with a 36,600-vph movement; and culminated with the introduction of the Ultra-Chron Diver (below) in 1968, which became the world’s first high-frequency divers’ watch, housing the 36,600-vph Caliber 431. (Yes, this predates by one year the most famous high-frequency movement, the Zenith El Primero, though that movement also incorporated automatic winding and a chronograph.) The Ultra-Chron Diver provides the template for the all-new Ultra-Chron model, whose cushion-shaped stainless steel case spans a contemporary 43mm in diameter and 13.6mm thick as well as a 300-meter water resistance - an improvement on the vintage model’s 200-meter rating. Like its predecessor, and in th...

We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hublot Jan 25, 2023

We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites

The new releases from LVMH Watch Week came to New York City last week, and of course the Worn & Wound team was there to check them out. It was the first big batch of new releases in 2023, and Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith all brought a variety of watches to display. Here are initial impressions from Blake Buettner, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan. Kat Shoulders  My favorite watch from the LVMH Preview was the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. There were no doubt higher end horology pieces at the preview, but as far as watches I’d be ready to buy on the spot, this one won the day for me. I’ve been known amongst the Worn and Wound crew to not be a huge titanium lover, and quite honestly, I’m perfectly OK with that. The metal typically isn’t my favorite to wear due to the lighter feel. However, the grade 2 titanium that TAG uses felt incredibly nice in person and high quality. Maybe it was the sand blasted finishing as well, but something just really struck me about this particular Aquaracer. The finishing, the feel, the bezel action…it all just comes together perfectly in my opinion. The older I get, the more comfortable I am in this hobby saying that quartz is actually really convenient. Add the ability to charge the movement via solar power, and you have a really great tool watch you literally never have to worry about. The grayed out Aquaracer shutter dial that we’ve become familiar with along with the ice blue hands and text is eye-catc...

[Photo Report] LVMH Watch Week Comes to NYC Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hublot Jan 24, 2023

[Photo Report] LVMH Watch Week Comes to NYC

Last week, we had the opportunity to go hands-on with many of the new releases from LVMH brands, who celebrated their LVMH Watch Week to kick off the new year. We saw new watches from Zenith, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Bulgari, and even had the chance to sit with leadership from the brands to discuss their plans moving forward. Stay tuned for more impressions coming to the podcast and the site later this week, and in the meantime you’ll find a photo report from our time with the watches, along with a few takeaways from the experience. From lavish Hublots to perfectly understated TAG Heuers, there’s a little something for everyone here, including a surprise or two along the way.   Zenith We’re kicking things off with Zenith, who showed us new additions to their Skyline collection, which includes a new skeletonized dial, as well as smaller 36mm variants. They also had their latest Defy Revival A3691 with brilliant red dial, and perhaps best of all, and original ‘Bank Vault’ example (courtesy of podcast alum, Romain Marietta). There was a bonus appearance by a new boutique exclusive Defy with a grey and gold dial that worked much better in person that any of the images we’d seen up to that point. First impression of the new Skyline Skeleton was just how well the slightly larger proportions of the case worked on the wrist. TAG Heuer TAG Heuer had no shortage of watches to show us, from a new case in their smart watch Connected range, to that stunning 60th anniversary ...

Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jan 18, 2023

Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days

The world’s biggest luxury-watch fair, Watches & Wonders (W&W;), is set to take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 at the Palexpo convention centre. The successor to both SIHH and Baselworld, W&W; will see forty-eight brands showcase their latest. This year’s exhibitors include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, as well as the the big luxury groups, namely Richemont, which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne, and LVMH, owner of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot. W&W; will be open to the public on its final two days of April 1 and 2. Tickets, however, will be required to attend W&W;. They will be available for purchase on the W&W; website starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1). A ticket costs CHF 70, similar to that of Baselworld. Beyond the fair in Palexpo, W&W; also encompasses events in the city centre meant to enhance accessibility. Exhibiting brands with boutiques along Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses, adjacent streets in Geneva’s prime shopping area, will stage their own events and exhibitions in their stores. At the same time, the organising body of W&W; will have talks and panel discussions at its headquarters at Pont de la Machine. The public days of W&W; bring it closer to the Baselworld model, which historically opened its doors to one and all, both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. As a result, Baselworld enjoyed a six-figure visitors numbers in its best years (though its exhibitors included the jewellery trade and suppliers). In ...

A Week In Watches Ep. 32: LVMH Watch Week Lands with a (Big) Bang, & Oris Drops a New Caliber Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Carrera alongside Jan 15, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 32: LVMH Watch Week Lands with a (Big) Bang, & Oris Drops a New Caliber

Welcome to A Week In Watches episode 32 with Managing Editor, Blake Buettner jumping in to chat about some of the new watches released during LVMH Watch Week. We’ve got some bombastic Hublots, an anniversary LE of the TAG Heuer Carrera alongside a low-key killer Aquaracer, and of course, some new Skyline references from Zenith. If none of that is your thing we’ve also got some news from Oris, who released a new caliber this week within a lovely Big Crown Pointer Date. Find links to all these stories below and hit the video for the full episode. Share your thoughts on YouTube (and subscribe to the channel while you’re there), or right here in the comments section.  This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph, and if you thought TAG Heuer was going to let even a month go by without acknowledging what is perhaps their most famous and admired watch, well, you must be new. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is exactly what you probably want to see if you’re a fan of classic Heuer racing chronographs, as it’s modeled after one of the most legendary Carrera references, the 2447 SN, and matches it detail for detail. Read the full story here. Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? ...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Chronograph SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Chronograph Louis Sep 5, 2022

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Chronograph

Louis Vuitton is now in its 20th year as a watchmaker. In that time it has gone from basic, ETA-powered watches to a variety of impressive complications, including its signature Spin Time, and even a minute repeater with automaton. To mark the occasion, Louis Vuitton (LV) has just announced the Tambour Twenty Chronograph, a remake modelled on the brand’s first serious mechanical timepiece. The two-decade journey has seen LV’s watchmaking division evolve from a shared space inside TAG Heuer’s factory to its own expansive facility in Geneva that includes not only a complications workshop but also its own dial-making facility. While LV does make some of its own movements now, the Tambour Twenty is a nod to its origins as a watchmaker. The 200-piece limited edition is modelled on the Tambour LV277 of 2003, the brand’s first chronograph that was powered by the Zenith El Primero. Initial thoughts Despite its odd proportions – a big case with tall, sloping sides and narrow lugs – the Tambour case is attractive in my eyes. And it’s distinctive and recognisable although its form is fairly simple. In short, it’s a successful design. The Tambour works especially well with complications since that gives its size – especially its thickness – a sense of purpose. Ordinarily I am not a fan of brown dials, but this is one of the few dials in the colour that looks good. LV executes its dials well – most of them are made in-house – and the reflective metallic brown o...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 6, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph

Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...

The Hublot Yellow Gold collection is a return to the brand’s trailblazing roots Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Offshore Feb 17, 2022

The Hublot Yellow Gold collection is a return to the brand’s trailblazing roots

It’s hard to remember a time when ultra-luxe sport watches weren’t available on rubber. Today, buyers can choose from Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore, Zenith’s Defy, Rolex’s Daytona, and many more, but this wasn’t always the case. Pre-’80s, rubber straps were considered déclassé, far too casual for anything but a dive watch. But Hublot changed … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Yellow Gold collection is a return to the brand’s trailblazing roots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: LVMH Watch Week, Oris unVAILings, Royal Oak revolution and Grand Seiko strikes again Time+Tide
Grand Seiko strikes again Jan 28, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: LVMH Watch Week, Oris unVAILings, Royal Oak revolution and Grand Seiko strikes again

This week was action-packed, with tons of new novelties for watch fans to explore. LVMH Watch Week debuted new collections across all four brands: Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith. You can check out our novelty overviews by clicking on those aforementioned brand names, or search “LVMH Watch Week” to discover what we have covered … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: LVMH Watch Week, Oris unVAILings, Royal Oak revolution and Grand Seiko strikes again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 5, 2021

Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022

After two years of digital fairs – and several sold-out physical fairs in China – Watches & Wonders is finally happening in Geneva. First announced for 2020 as the successor to the long-running SIHH, which for two decades was the luxury-watch fair in Geneva, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) 2022 will take place from March 30 to April 5 at Palexpo, with 39 brands in attendance. All of the major names that spurred the demise of Baselworld will exhibit at W&W; 2022, namely Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor. They’ll be joined by most of the brands owned by Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that was historically the anchor of SIHH, the event that preceded W&W;. Amongst the Richemont brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, and Vacheron Constantin. Another luxury group represented at the fair is LVMH, which has all three of its watch brands – Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – taking part. Bulgari, however, is notably absent, perhaps because there are already two Richemont-owned jewellers present. One of the significant newcomers is Grand Seiko, which only just announced its participation in the fair. Seiko was a longtime mainstay of Baselworld, so it’s not surprising that its top-of-the-line brand is returning to Switzerland to exhibit its newest watches. The gang returns, except for the independents As was the case with SIHH in the past, W&W; 2022 will include the Carré des Horlogers, a square dedicated to independent watchmakers. In years past the carré co...

Highlights: Sothebys’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin miniature enamel pocket watch Apr 19, 2021

Highlights: Sothebys’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Taking place on Friday, April 23, 2021, Sotheby’s first live watch auction of the year takes place in Hong Kong. Important Watches is a full-sized sale led by the unique Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum with a turquoise “Stella” dial, which might just set the record for most valuable automatic Daytona ever sold at auction. But the 296-lot sale is diverse in the traditional manner of Hong Kong auctions, encompassing vintage Patek Philippe, modern grand complications, and an assortment of independent watchmaking. Here’s a roundup of a few noteworthy lots at the auction, including a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in exceptional condition, a pair of gorgeous pocket watches decorated with the very best of Geneva miniature enamelling, and the F.P Journe Coffret 38 made up of five watches with steel cases. The auction will start at 11 am local time on April 23 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2185 – Vacheron Constantin miniature enamel pocket watch The middle decades of the 20th century were a golden age for miniature enamelling in Geneva, with the cities best watchmakers recruiting its best enamellers to decorate pocket watches. One example of such work is lot 2185, a yellow gold pocket watch made in 1948 by Vacheron Constantin that bears a miniature enamel painting by Hélène May Mercier (1910-1996), an artisan who learnt the craft with another famed enameller, Carlo Poluzzi...

Frederique Constant Unveils 40 Hz Silicon Oscillator SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Unveils 40 Hz Silicon Mar 27, 2021

Frederique Constant Unveils 40 Hz Silicon Oscillator

Best known for affordable complications, Frederique Constant’s recent watches include a flyback chronograph for US$4,000 and a perpetual calendar for a bit under US$10,000. But the brand has also applied modern technology to its watchmaking with its analog smartwatches. The brand’s latest offering is cutting-edge horology, but in a mechanical movement. The Slimline Monolithic Manufacture is equipped with an automatic movement that runs at 40 Hz, or 288,000 beats per hour (bph), thanks to a compliant-mechanism silicon oscillator instead of a balance wheel. Initial thoughts It’s a pleasant surprise to see Frederique Constant delving into advanced horological solutions with its silicon compliant mechanism and entering a space often associated with pricier brands like Ulysse Nardin and Zenith. Even more impressive is the fact that the movement is not just as a concept, but a commercially available watch that will be in stores in fall of this year and priced relatively affordably, starting at €4,495, or about US$5,300, in steel. The advanced movement leaves the design of the Monolithic Manufacture incongruous with its classical styling and a truly modern oscillator. However, as such watches go, the design is not the point – it is all about the novel escapement that will certainly pique the interest of technical-minded enthusiasts. Hi-tech collab The high-frequency silicon oscillator was born of a collaboration with Flexous, a startup focused on compliant mechanis...

Auricoste Revives the Military-Issue Type 20 Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Breguet Mar 26, 2021

Auricoste Revives the Military-Issue Type 20 Flyback Chronograph

Auricoste was founded in 1854 to make marine chronometers, but is best known for the Type 20 chronographs supplied to the French military in the 1950s. The brand was one of a handful that produced watches according to the “Type 20” military specification for flyback chronographs, alongside Dodane, Vixa, and most famously, Breguet. Now Auricoste has revived the military chronograph with help from vintage watch expert Fabrice Gueroux as the Flymaster Type 20. Initial thoughts Auricoste is historically significant, as far as military chronographs go – the vintage-original Type 20 is a valuable watch – though it has fallen off the radar of most watch enthusiasts today. With the Flymaster Type 20, Auricoste is playing to its strengths. The Flymaster Type 20 should appeal to those looking for a military-inspired pilot’s chronograph. As it is made by one of the original manufacturers of Type 20 watches, the Flymaster Type 20 has added historical provenance as compared to comparably priced alternatives that share a similar aesthetic. And at 3,450 €, or about US$4,100, the watch is significantly more affordable than Breguet’s Type 20, or even Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 watches. It is also a limited edition of 299 pieces, which makes its value proposition even more attractive. Faithful re-issue Auricoste and Mr Gueroux took pains to ensure that the Flymaster Type 20 retains much of the vintage original’s DNA. The Flymaster is almost a dead ringer for the original, ...

INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black Time+Tide
Bulgari Hublot Jan 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black

It’s late January, which means it’s LVMH Watch Week, an event where the watch departments of Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith unleash their new novelties for the year. For Hublot in 2021, we enjoyed a number of updates to existing collections, including a totally new colour of sapphire crystal in the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic, a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Watches & Wonders 2021 Will Happen Online – And in Shanghai SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin as will Jan 29, 2021

Business News: Watches & Wonders 2021 Will Happen Online – And in Shanghai

Originally slated to be the ultimate watch fair that would also include the major brands that departed Baselworld, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) did not take place in 2020 due to the pandemic and instead became a virtual show online, before being transported to China as an actual, physical fair. The event is returning in 2021 in exactly the same format, but with a far larger number of brands taking part. W&W; will happen online from April 7-13, where 38 brands will introduce their latest watches. The participants include nearly all of watchmaking’s major brands and conglomerates. All of Richemont’s brands will be present, including A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, and Vacheron Constantin, as will the brands owned by LVMH – TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith. The list of exhibitors also includes a handful of independent brands, but few are significant, save for Greubel Forsey. Most crucially, the twin giants of Geneva watchmaking will be taking part, giving the event far greater influence and a wider audience – Rolex and its sister brand Tudor, as well as Patek Philippe. Much like the traditional watch fair in Geneva, the online version of W&W; will be open to retailers, journalists, and select clients of the participating brands. W&W; Shanghai in 2020. Photo – Watches & Wonders And a few days later… With strong demand for luxury watches in China – where social and economic life is largely back to normal – W&W; will then take place as a physical fair in Shanghai once again, b...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Ghost SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Nov 23, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Ghost

One of the earliest entrants in the luxury-sports watches segment, the Girard-Perragaux Laureato made its debut in 1975. But the model did not remain in production consistently, and only recently enjoyed a revival with a relaunch in 2017. With its relaunch, the Laureato line up now includes complications like the tourbillon, exotic case materials like sapphire, and onyx stone dials. The latest is perhaps the most striking version to date: the Laureato Ghost that was designed in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department (BWD) and rendered entirely in white ceramic. George Bamford with the Laureato Ghost Founded by George Bamford, the fashion and watch entrepreneur who’s the son of construction-equipment tycoon Sir Anthony Bamford, BWD started out as an after-market customiser of Rolex watches and swiftly became one of the preeminent brands in that niche. But BWD has since evolved into an officially-endorsed customiser (albeit not by Rolex), having received the stamp of approval from various watchmakers, most notably from the brands owned by LVMH, namely TAG Heuer and Zenith. The Laureato Ghost is the first collaboration between BWD and Girard-Perregaux (GP), having been rolled out for the 45th anniversary of the Laureato, explaining the small, 45-piece run. Initial thoughts Named Ghost because of its singular colour palette, the watch is attractive in its simplicity. BWD’s house style is often characterised by an all-black finish, making the all-white Laureato Ghos...