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Edouard Heuer

Saint-Imier watchmaker who founded Heuer (now TAG Heuer) in 1860; patented the oscillating pinion 1887.

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LVMH Watches

TAG Heuer (1999), Zenith (1999), Hublot (2008), Bulgari (2011), plus Louis Vuitton in-house and Tiffany & Co. Bernard Arnault\'s Paris-based group.

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Monaco TAG Heuer

The 1969 Heuer square chronograph. Worn by Steve McQueen in Le Mans.

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Carrera TAG Heuer

Jack Heuer's 1963 Carrera. The template for every modern motorsport chronograph.

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Longines Feb 4, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 73: Power Reserves, Pandas, Triple Calendars, and More!

We’re back to our usual broadcasting with episode 73 of A Week in Watches. 2024 has gotten off to a solid start with several cool new releases and some interesting projects. This week, we take a look at the first new Speedy of the year, a wild project from Seiko, a fantastic calendar chrono from Zenith, and the revival of a vintage favorite from Longines. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The best way to start the new year is a new watch. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check out new watches, limited editions, accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The holidays are over, it’s time to get yourself something nice. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 73: Power Reserves, Pandas, Triple Calendars, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Louis Erard’s Latest Limited Edition is a Collaboration with a Swiss Abstract Artist, and their Most Challenging Work Yet Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s Latest Limited Edition Feb 1, 2024

Louis Erard’s Latest Limited Edition is a Collaboration with a Swiss Abstract Artist, and their Most Challenging Work Yet

There’s a whole category of watches that I have come to genuinely love that I think can be fairly described as highly impractical art objects that also tell time. I wrote about one quite extensively here, and if you follow me on Instagram or have chatted with me in real life or in the Worn & Wound+ Slack community (which, to be fair, is technically “real life”) you know that I gravitate more and more toward the avant-garde, and love challenging designs that try to break what a watch even is. The new limited edition regulator from Louis Erard fits into this category nicely, and indeed was made in partnership with a Swiss abstract artist with a reputation for this type of challenging work. The new Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Olivier Mosset is perhaps the brand’s most purely abstract creation yet.  Let’s start with the obvious question: how do you tell the time on this thing? This is not an unreasonable query – many who have encountered this watch on Louis Erard’s Instagram feed since its unveiling on Tuesday morning have been confused enough to send their question into the void. I won’t say it’s “simple” because even I have to admit that telling the time on this thing is probably difficult in a pinch, but the idea is straightforward. It’s a regulator, with the top hand reading the hours, the middle the minutes, and the bottom the seconds. But the task of actually reading the time is intentionally (I’m assuming) made more challenging for a few reas...

Two New Seiko GMT’s and a Vintage Throwback Hit the Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Seiko GMT’s Jan 31, 2024

Two New Seiko GMT’s and a Vintage Throwback Hit the Windup Watch Shop

Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone retro-inspired hit. Here is your Chronicle highlighting the Seiko Alpinist GMTs, models SPB377 and SPB379, and the Seiko SPRK17. As always, we invite you to join our rewards program to earn points with every purchase. Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone r...

Dial Restoration: Aesthetics or Functionality? How to Decide – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 27, 2024

Dial Restoration: Aesthetics or Functionality? How to Decide – Reprise

Most will agree that re-painting a dial is a big no-no. Vintage pieces with re-painted dials can be had for a steal as they are difficult to shift and mostly unwanted. But not all dial restorations are created equal, and we do encounter varying degrees of “upgrades.” Some of these upgrades are purposeful deception, while others are not. Here is what one watchmaker feels about the subject.

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Seiko Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jan 25, 2024

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Seiko

In this edition of Inside the Collection, Zach Weiss and Kat Shoulders examine what collecting Seiko has meant to them over the years. It’s a common collecting trope that Seiko is the gateway drug for many watch collectors just getting their start, and as you’ll see here that’s certainly the case for Zach and Kat. But Seiko also endures in both of their collections years later, and in surprising ways. There’s so much variety in the Seiko collection (going back decades) that it’s impossible to ever get bored of the brand, and there are always new things to discover beyond the familiar dive watches and entry level Seiko 5.  Zach Weiss  The greatest thing about Seiko watches, or the brand/company as a whole, is that no matter where you are in your collecting lifecycle, there is likely a watch that will appeal to you. From Seiko 5 to Prospex to Grand Seiko to Credor, there is something to find that will suit a taste, need, and budget. And to be clear, that doesn’t exclude a Credor customer from picking up a new Seiko 5 and vice versa. As a collector, that has kept them as a constant for me over the years. Starting with the Seiko 5 SNK field watches that one could pick up for a song a decade ago, then heading to vintage-styled Prospex divers, and now mining for oddities like the Seiko Sportura Kinetic Chronographs (not to mention Grand Seiko’s delights) there is simply always something for me to look for.  It’s quite dangerous as I often find myself bored wit...

Longines Revives Novel Central Power Reserve Display SJX Watches
Longines Revives Novel Central Power Jan 25, 2024

Longines Revives Novel Central Power Reserve Display

Longines’ latest launch is unexpected in featuring a novel take on a useful complication: the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve has a power reserve indicator positioned at the centre of the dial, on the same axis as the hands. Though unusual, the central power reserve is actually found in the Conquest ref. 9028 from 1959, making this something of a vintage remake, which makes its debut just in time for the 70th anniversary of the Conquest collection. Initial thoughts The current Conquest collection is somewhat forgotten because it’s positioned between Longines’ sports watches like the Spirit and the vintage-inspired Heritage and Master models. Fortunately the new Conquest is interesting enough to stand out. Even though it’s not a new invention, the central power reserve indicator is uncommon. Furthermore, this particular power reserve display is a clever two-disc construction that makes the indicator a bit more life, so it adds visual flair to the dial. The central power reserve is arguably more legible than conventional indicators that are smaller. At the same time it gives the dial a pleasing symmetrical layout. Because of the symmetry, the date indicator at 12 actually works well and improves the dial design. Perhaps only downside of the design is the seemingly chunky case. Like many other Longines models, this Conquest appears to have thick lugs despite being fairly compact in diameter. In terms of price, the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve is mor...

The Making of a Watch: The Sycamore Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko dealers around Jan 23, 2024

The Making of a Watch: The Sycamore Collection

This interview has been edited for length and clarity. When DC Vintage Watch’s Nick Ferrell announced he was launching a watch line, I took notice. Ferrell has made a name as one of the foremost Seiko dealers around, and the first pics he released of the Sycamore line were gorgeous-the Wolf and the Hunter, a matte black GMT and a matte black dress watch, respectively, both with Hindu-Arabic numeral dials that seemed to anticipate the Hindu-Arabic dial craze the watch world has entered. Ferrell’s watch cred and the success of his design are reason enough to be interested in the Sycamore line, but there’s something more about it that fascinated me. With the Wolf and the Hunter, Ferrell has gotten to live the watch enthusiast’s dream: he had an idea for a watch and he actually got to make it. “Some of it was not seeing out there what I wanted myself,” Ferrell recalled in an interview. “And another thing was, there’s that black PVD [Seiko] 6139, it’s kind of like an oval, it’s the 6139-8010 and I took the dial off and I put the 6139 military dial with the Arabic numbers on it. Playing around with this, and I was like, ‘I really like this.’” A Seiko 6139-8010 which served as inspiration for the Sycamore Collection That was about nine months ago-a fitting length of time between the conception of an idea and its birth. Since then, Ferrell has taken that inspiration and produced watches that, while they contain some of the DNA of that initial Seiko mo...

Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price Fratello
IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks Jan 23, 2024

Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price

Today, we’ll take a look at a vintage IWC 309, a watch that attracted me due to its likeness to another watch. This classic is no copycat, though, as it brings enough unique styling flourishes to the party. We also have the chance to discuss one of the more heralded movements in history. At the […] Visit Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price to read the full article.

Introducing – The Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition with New Old Stock Dial and Movement Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition Jan 18, 2024

Introducing – The Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition with New Old Stock Dial and Movement

A visually faithful re-edition of a vintage dive watch, the classic version of the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster – which we reviewed here – combines the charm of an old watch with the ease-of-use of a modern watch, built with contemporary features and materials like sapphire crystal. And in all fairness, this is a perfect package […]

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Sopranos Turns 25, Rolling Stone Ranks the Best Sci-Fi, and the Best Gadgets from CES 2024 that You Can Buy Right Now Worn & Wound
Jan 13, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Sopranos Turns 25, Rolling Stone Ranks the Best Sci-Fi, and the Best Gadgets from CES 2024 that You Can Buy Right Now

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The Sopranos Turns 25 This week marked a major anniversary for Sopranos fans – it’s been 25 years since the show premiered on HBO, and quite literally changed television forever (mostly for the better, we’d argue). There’s been no shortage of retrospectives this week looking back on the show, its stars, and the many amazing TV moments we’ve all enjoyed over the course of 6 seasons and too many rewatches to count. But one of our favorite pieces this week was found in the New York Times, and focuses on the distinctive production design and real New Jersey locations used for filming. There was a level of authenticity that was always apparent in the The Sopranos that felt markedly different from other mafia stories told on the screen, and a huge part of that is the cast (made up largely of local NJ and NY actors with Italian ancestry) and the lived-in, familiar locations. Check out the story here. The 150 Greatest Science Fiction Films, According to Rolling Stone Whatever you think of the modern incarnation of Rolling Stone, you have to admit one thing: they have become experts at...

Opinion: A New Year’s Resolution for the Watch Community, and a More Diverse Instagram Grid Worn & Wound
Jan 2, 2024

Opinion: A New Year’s Resolution for the Watch Community, and a More Diverse Instagram Grid

The New Years holiday is typically a time to reflect and set some goals for the upcoming year ahead. Even if you’re not into setting New Year’s resolutions, the turning over of the calendar is a good opportunity to take stock. I’m not normally the type to set New Year’s resolutions myself, so I hope you won’t think it’s presumptuous that I’m about to lay out a goal for the entire watch community. I’d like to humbly propose that 2024 be the year we collectively abandon a practice that I’ve personally always found a bit strange: the “watch” Instagram account that sits alongside your “regular” account. Two accounts! One just for watches, one for – and I’m gesturing wildly here with both arms – everything else. To me that seems like a lot of work.  Why do we do this? I’ve heard all kinds of explanations. The most common is that we, as watch collectors, don’t want to endure the weird looks and questions from friends and family when they see regular wrist shots pop up in their feed. To that I say: they already know how weird you are. We should fly our watch freak flags high, with wrist shots alongside pics of your breakfast burritos, gym selfies, and summit photos.  Current grid: Just about all watches In 2024, let’s say goodbye to the idea that a watch focused Instagram is somehow not worthy of the views of your non-watch obsessed friends. They should accept you for who you are. And if somehow you’ve kept your watch hobby a secret all t...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Magnet Fishing, the Year’s Best Needle Drops, and Fake Birds Worn & Wound
Dec 30, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Magnet Fishing, the Year’s Best Needle Drops, and Fake Birds

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Magnet Fishing in NYC Did you pick up a new hobby during the Covid-19 lockdowns? Many of us tried our hands at baking bread, taking on arts and crafts projects, urban (and rural) hiking, and a thousand other things. James Kane, profiled recently in the New York Times, developed an interest in something a little more obscure, but unlike many of the would-be sourdough experts among us, Kane has stuck with his new pastime. Magnet fishing involves, well, dropping a magnet into a body of water and seeing what you can pull up. Kane has been doing this all over New York City for the last few years, and is hoping to build a YouTube following. It’s not the most ridiculous idea. There’s plenty of junk at the end of those magnets, but sometimes Kane finds something valuable, or interesting, that sheds light on the city’s history. Like that time he found a live grenade. Who wouldn’t want to watch that YouTube video? The Paré Paré Podcast The Paré Paré podcast is a new venture brought to us in part by the guy behind the popular Longbeach Watch Club Instagram account, featuring focused di...

Introducing – New Dial Colours for the Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC 39mm Monochrome
Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC 39mm Dec 22, 2023

Introducing – New Dial Colours for the Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC 39mm

It’s pretty surprising when you think that the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant’s take on the luxury sports watch, has been around for fewer than three years. Thanks to its well-designed and finished case, its integrated and interchangeable bracelet, its clean dial, its well-represented range of complications, its affordable price tag, and the fact that it […]

The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication Worn & Wound
Havid Nagan Dec 14, 2023

The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication

In the sea of vintage-inspired, sport-watch focused microbrands – with which there is nothing wrong, of course – are a select few brands who seem to have stumbled upon an aesthetic that is uniquely theirs. One such example is Havid Nagan whose 2021 debut model was aptly named HN00. We were impressed with it and covered it here, and today Havid Nagan is back with the follow-up to its opening shot: Introducing the HN01 Lucine, Havid Nagan’s interpretation of, and ode to, the moonphase. So what changed and what hasn’t? The closest thing the two watches share are their cases: The HN01 titanium cushion-esque case keeps the same 40.2mm diameter as its predecessor but has slimmed down from 11.6mm thick to only 10.2mm. Its profile has also been massaged slightly to better accentuate its profile. This is even more impressive when you consider the effort required to fit an entirely new complication module inside. The HN01 Lucine’s powertrain is a Chronode base movement that has been heavily modified to include a moonphase module (which itself has been improved to err only one day from every 2.5 years to every 11.6 years). The module itself, which displays the moon at 12 o’clock, contains two photorealistic moons that float on a “mystery” style transparent sapphire wheel. Havid Nagan has also taken it upon themselves to decorate the movement with hand-applied anglage and additional perlage clouds on the mainplate (both sides) and skeletonized bridges. There is also a...

The Affordable Seiko 5 “Field” Gains a GMT Function SJX Watches
Grand Seiko or Tudor Although setting Dec 13, 2023

The Affordable Seiko 5 “Field” Gains a GMT Function

Seiko has expanded its range of (very) reasonably priced sports watches with the Seiko 5 Sports Field Sports Style GMT. Available in stainless steel (SSK023) or black-coated steel (SSK025), it retains the military-inspired aesthetics of its time-only counterparts, while incorporating an additional hour hand showing a second time zone. Initial thoughts  The new models evoke a sense of familiarity with the “field” style dial and 24-hour markers, a longstanding design that’s been part of the Seiko 5 line-up for decades. But now the dial adopts a modern, utilitarian style, departing from the vintage-inspired aesthetic found in the time-only “field” models such as the SRPG35 and SRPJ85. And purists will appreciate the absence day-of-the-week display, with the dial having just the date. The black-on-black SSK025 achieves an almost ideal look for this type of watch. The near-monochromatic aesthetic creates an extremely satisfying contrast with the orange accents that brings to mind a fighter jet cockpit. The SSK025 Beyond the cosmetic changes, the new models are typical of Seiko’s entry-level GMT models. They are more accurately described as dual time zone watches with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than true GMT watches that feature an adjustable local-time hour hand, as seen in pricier watches from Grand Seiko or Tudor. Although setting the time for a second time zone involves a few additional steps, this represents an acceptable compromise consid...

Hello, Newman: A Collector Looks Askance at the Cult of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Daytona – Reprise Dec 10, 2023

Hello, Newman: A Collector Looks Askance at the Cult of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona – Reprise

For watch lovers, the name “Paul Newman” is associated first and foremost with Rolex, and in particular with a subset of that brand’s Daytona watches with specific dial characteristics, including a recessed outer seconds track and subdials that feature block-shaped hashmarks and Art Deco-style Arabic numerals. But what does this nickname mean for these references on the vintage market? And what does GaryG think about it?

Introducing – The Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar for Ace Jewelers Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar Dec 6, 2023

Introducing – The Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar for Ace Jewelers

In 2020, Guillaume Laidet breathed new life into Nivada Grenchen, unveiling heritage-inspired models like the Chronomaster and the Antarctic. The brand’s resurgence continued with modern interpretations and reissues, including the Super Antarctic series, the brand’s take on the exploration watch. The collaboration with Dutch retailer Ace Jewelers has given rise to the latest release, the […]

Watches, Stories, & Gear: John Woo Returns to Hollywood, Winter Coats Fit for the Ice Planet Hoth, and the Mad Max: Furiosa Trailer Worn & Wound
Dec 2, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: John Woo Returns to Hollywood, Winter Coats Fit for the Ice Planet Hoth, and the Mad Max: Furiosa Trailer

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com John Woo Returns to Hollywood Image via The New Yorker John Woo, for fans of action films, is a legend. His Face/Off, starring John Travolta and Nicolas Cage, is an endlessly quotable 1990s classic that still holds up today, and his early Hong Kong films like The Killer and Hard-Boiled set a template that action oriented filmmakers have been following for years, even if they can never quite duplicate Woo’s unique style. Now, after a long period of making movies abroad, he’s back with his Hollywood production in years. Silent Night is a dialogue free revenge drama, and the trailer would seem to indicate we’re dealing with vintage Woo here, with plenty of slow-mo, elaborate chase sequences, and what appear to be wildly complex set pieces. In this New Yorker interview, Woo discusses his deep interest in genre filmmaking, how he’s been influenced by everything from Clint Eastwood to martial arts films, and of course his latest endeavor. It’s worth a read for anyone who’s ever quoted Face/Off.  A First Look at the “Fallout” TV Series Image Courtesy Vanity Fair “Fallout,”...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Rebecca Struthers, The Abyss Returns to Theaters, and “Honest Vintage” at Sotheby’s Worn & Wound
Nov 25, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Rebecca Struthers, The Abyss Returns to Theaters, and “Honest Vintage” at Sotheby’s

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com A Love Letter to Timekeeping, from Rebecca Struthers  Photo credit: Andy Pilsbury Rebecca Struthers is not just a talented watchmaker, she is one of the foremost communicators on the cultural importance of watches, clocks, and timekeeping. If you haven’t read her book, Hands of Time, it is absolutely worth it if you’re ever been fascinated by these little timekeeping objects (you probably are if you’ve found this website). You can get a little taste of Rebecca’s style and point of view right here via the BBC. It’s part technical, part history, and part philosophy, and her prose is entertaining and will likely grab you immediately.   The Abyss is Back in Theaters (for One Night) James Cameron’s The Abyss (the subject of the very first Time on Screen podcast) is heading back to theaters for one night only next month. The ambitious sci-fi film has been remastered in 4K and will be shown in what we imagine to be Cameron’s definitive director’s cut. The Abyss has taken on cult status for many – it’s certainly not the most talked about film in Cameron’s filmography, b...

Enthusiast Spotlight: Exploring the Never-ending Allure of Music and Time with Guitarist Tom Laskey and the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Worn & Wound
Nomos Glashütte Tangente When most Nov 23, 2023

Enthusiast Spotlight: Exploring the Never-ending Allure of Music and Time with Guitarist Tom Laskey and the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente

When most people hear the phrase ‘professional musician,’ their brains conjure images of bright lights, big stages, and screaming crowds. But the reality of how your favorite songs came to be and how your next favorite song will reach your ears is decidedly more complicated and interesting than that. We explore ‘variations on a theme’ with guitarist Tom Laskey and a trio of NOMOS Glashütte Tangentes, each expressing a slightly different riff on the same playful, yet purposeful melody. To deliver a hit, a group of talented, hardworking musicians spend countless hours in dimly lit studios experimenting and iterating, bringing all of their knowledge and skills to the table over and over again, finally discovering the right combination of elements. And it’s this spirit of repetition and reinvention that somehow distills every song you’ve ever heard out of the same basic elements, surprising and moving you anew each time. It’s not unlike the art of watchmaking. The post Enthusiast Spotlight: Exploring the Never-ending Allure of Music and Time with Guitarist Tom Laskey and the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Fascinating and Landmark Complications at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref 30020 Nov 21, 2023

Fascinating and Landmark Complications at Christie’s Hong Kong

After seeing the fascinating timepieces made by independent watchmakers and the artistic highlights, let us now direct your attention to the notable complications in the Christie’s sales that take place on November 26.  In this compilation, we scrutinise nine noteworthy lots. Some items, like the Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar ref. 5516 and the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, stand out with their six-figure price tags, while others might escape attention but are still deserving of a mention. Examples include the contemporary Omega De Ville Central Tourbillon or a distinctive version of Montblanc’s 1858 Split-Seconds crafted for the Only Watch charity auction. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begin at 1 pm on November 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the second session (lots 2501-2639) offering watches from the OAK Collection at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lot 2223: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref. 30020 in platinum  The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar pays homage to the revered vintage reference 4261, capturing the essence of one of Vacheron Constantin’s most sought-after timepieces among collectors. Manufactured in 200 examples across two configurations, one with a traditional dial, as seen here, and the other skeletonised, the watch stands out as a coveted item in the current collectors’ market. Notably, only 77 examples, inc...

Hands On: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II Diamant SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 13, 2023

Hands On: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II Diamant

Much lauded at its launch last year, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) was originally available only in two guises of rose gold or platinum, each with a matching enamel now. Now Rexhep Rexhepi has quietly debuted a small run of the RRCC II in the same metals with gemstone hour markers to match. The platinum version features a black enamel dial with baguette-cut diamond indices that give it a stark, formal beauty. And the rose gold model has a cream enamel dial with ruby markers. Initial thoughts Discreetly glamorous gentlemen’s watches with diamond hour markers are a well established tradition in watchmaking, particularly so during the mid-20th century at high-end brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The new RRCC II is clearly a reference to such historical watches. Despite being a modern watch, and clearly recognisable as such, the diamond-set RRCC II manages to capture the subtle, elegant nature of its historical inspiration thanks to its compact case with graceful lugs inspired by vintage Patek Philippe models, including this ref. 2551. A possibly unique Patek Philippe ref. 2551 dating from 1957 with a white gold case and diamond indices that sold for almost CHF360,000 at Phillips in 2022 Interestingly, even though the RRCC II was not originally conceived as a gem-set watch, the dial accommodates the diamond hour markers perfectly. The glossy surface of the enamel dial complements the diamonds’ sparkle, while the alternating track ...

Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer Worn & Wound
Baltic Hermetique Tourer When you Nov 7, 2023

Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer

When you look at Baltic’s lineup, you may have noticed the absence of a field watch. After tackling dive watches, GMTs, and other platforms, all with an eye toward a specific type of vintage elegance, Baltic has released the Hermetique Tourer - their take on the classic go-anywhere, do-anything field watch.  Field watches are great, don’t get me wrong, but when so many are built to a specific military specification, they start to get a little bit stale. That’s not the case at all with Baltic’s newest field-ready wrist companion. The Hermétique takes those classic defining elements of a field watch and elevates them with style to fit Baltic’s overall aesthetic. Let’s jump in and take a closer look at this fun, reasonably-priced, and feature-packed entry into a new category of watches from Paris’ own Baltic Watches. $590 Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9039 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Tropic rubber, stainless bracelet Water Resistance 150 meters Dimensions 37 x 46mm Thickness 10.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Integrated, push down Warranty Yes Price $590 Case At first glance, the 37mm case looks surprisingly sleek. In case you missed it, the crown on the right side of the case pushes in to a point where it’s flush with the lines of the case, giving the Hermétique a largely circular appearance. While we tend to praise field and pilot watches for their large, accessible crowns, it’s nic...

[VIDEO] Review: The Delightfully Odd Longines HydroConquest GMT Worn & Wound
Longines HydroConquest GMT Watches Nov 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The Delightfully Odd Longines HydroConquest GMT

Watches that break from conventional wisdom tend to provide the most memorable experiences on the wrist. We search out such examples around here and embrace new watches that aren’t afraid to cut against the grain in some way, shape, or form. Doing so presents a risk for brands, particularly large, well established brands. A by-the-numbers design meant to appeal to the largest possible swath of the population must, by definition, be as inoffensive as possible. Deviation from the template risks putting out a percentage of would-be buyers, but it also creates grounds for differentiation, a necessity in today’s crowded landscape of watch brands young and old. Achieving balance here means a design that’s unique and exciting, while being accessible enough to sell to enough people to make it work financially.  Generally, the larger the brand the safer they play with this equation. But that’s not always the case, as many large brands still produce polarizing yet recognizable watches that have a focused appeal to a group of die hard fans. I’ll let you conjure up your own examples of watches that fall into this category. One such testament is the Longines HydroConquest, a watch with a big personality that’s been emblematic of the era it was originally designed in, the mid ‘00s. Longines was ahead of the game when it introduced the HydroConquest in 2007, presenting a fully modern, forward looking take on a serious dive watch at Baselworld, and even offered in both 39 a...