SJX Watches · Page 31

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Vacheron Constantin cal 1731 Jul 17, 2024

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches

Repeaters are one of the most complicated mechanisms in watches and over the years the complication has been refined by successive generations of watchmakers. Now, perhaps more than ever, watchmakers dedicate absolute attention to perfecting the quality, speed, accuracy, and durability of the striking works. Various components are required to chime the tunes of time with hammers and gongs. Paradoxically, amongst the most crucial parts of a chiming watch are those that work quietly, or silently, in the background – the governor. One of the most recent new repeater calibres, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater What is a governor? The governor regulates the speed of the striking pattern, in other words the pace of the individual chimes. A repeater movement contains a separate gear train for the repeating works, which are powered by their own smaller, auxiliary spring. The last component of this train consists of the governor. The governor’s task is to introduce resistance in the repeater train, allowing it to be regulated. Therefore, less resistance accelerates the striking speed, while more resistance slows down the repeater chimes. The Vacheron Constantin cal. 1731 with the secondary spring visible between the hammers The fine-tuning of the repeater’s speed is prized as an essential factor in ensuring a perfect series of chimes. If the pace is too fast, the vibrations of the gongs produce jarring overtones that cancel each other out. If too slow, not o...

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Vacheron Constantin were singled out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Richemont First Quarter Results, Jewellery Faring Better Than Watches

The first quarter results of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that just announced a new chief executive, illustrate a well-established trend in the luxury goods industry, with the group’s jewellery brands outperforming its watchmakers in the three months to end June 2024. Dominated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the Swiss group’s jewellery division eked out a 4% increase in sales, reflecting the strength of the group’s twin jewellery giants. Notably, the revenue growth was “supported by both jewellery and watches”, reflecting the brand equity of each jeweller has carried over into their respective watch offerings. The three jewellery brands – the smallest is Buccellati – accounted for 70% of Richemont’s turnover. Although profit was not announced, the jewellers are also responsible for an even greater share of the group’s profits. Watch weakness In contrast, the watch division saw revenue fall 13%. Amongst the division’s brands are IWC, Panerai, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin were singled out for their “resilience”. Unsurprisingly, both are haute horlogerie brands that derive the highest proportion of revenue from in-house boutiques, as opposed to third-party retailers. Whether this resilience is durable is an open question, although odds are not in the brands’ favour given their respective product mix, sales strategies, and consumer sentiment. Only available at boutiques At a group leve...

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Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref Jul 16, 2024

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. 7941A1A0NU

Among Tudor’s new releases for 2024, the most conservative is undoubtedly the Black Bay 41 METAS ref. 7941A1A0NU, which offers a monochrome, black-and-white alternative to the gilt-and-burgundy ref. M7941A1A0RU-0003 introduced last year. Initial thoughts The new Black Bay 41 (BB41) feels instantly familiar. In fact, it’s a little surprising that it wasn’t already in the collection, being about at straightforward as a contemporary dive watch can be. But what it lacks in surprise, it makes up for in simple, tangible quality. While the BB41 was the original Black Bay – launched a dozen years ago now – it now sits atop a range that also includes the smaller Black Bay 58 and even more compact Black Bay 54. The BB41 METAS’ dimensions of 41 mm by 13.6 mm thick mean it wears similar to a modern Rolex Submariner; those looking for vintage proportions should consider the BB58 and BB54. Of course, the big news is METAS certification for the MT5602-U movement, which now carries a “U” suffix to identify it as a METAS-certified Master Chronometer. The differences from the standard MT5602 used to date are likely minimal, since the movement has always had a silicon hairspring, one of the most important features for resisting the METAS standard’s 15,000 gauss anti-magnetism test. The difference, therefore, is that the movement’s high-performance specs have been confirmed by an independent test. Tudor is all about value, and the BB41 METAS is no exception. Available with...

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Vacheron Constantin From Geometry Jul 16, 2024

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin “From Geometry to Artistry” in Singapore

Vacheron Constantin will soon stage From Geometry to Artistry in Singapore, an exhibition to showcase the brand’s latest timepieces launched Watches & Wonders 2024, as well as an interactive kinetic artwork by design studio Lanzavecchia + Wai. According to Vacheron Constantin, the new timepieces for 2024, ranging from the Traditionnelle to the Overseas, demonstrate artistry inspired by geometric shapes, hence the exhibition’s title, From Geometry to Artistry. The exhibition will take place in 48 Bukit Pasoh from July 22-28, 2024. It’s open to the public, but registration online is required. This year’s Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time with a green dial. La Bonsaï, the kinetic artwork by Lanzavecchia + Wai, was created in response reaction to exhibition’s theme. La Bonsaï is a mechanical bonsai-planétaire that goes into motion when guests touch the jewel-like plant. Each branch of the artwork is inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s signature finishes, components, and movements, including  a large blue disc on the trunk of the bonsai references the sunburst, satin-finish dial of the Patrimony, as well as a sphere on the base of the plate that orbits the trunk, a nod to the moon phase display. La Bonsaï, 2024 by Lanzavecchia + Wai. From Geometry to Artistry  Open daily to the public July 22-July 28, 2024 2:00 pm-9:00 pm 48 Bukit Pasoh Road Singapore 089859 For registration, visit vacheron-constantin.com.  

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Blancpain stand out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow

The owner of brands like Omega and Longines, the Swatch Group just announced its results for the first half of 2024. The half-year numbers crystallised a slowdown that the watch industry has felt since late 2023. Revenue was down 14.3% to CHF3.44 billion, while operating profit plunged 70% to just CHF204 million, giving the group an operating margin of just 5.9%, compared to 17.1% from a year earlier. According to Swatch, the fall in revenue was “triggered by the sharp drop in demand for luxury goods in China (including Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR)”. At the same time, wholesale sales fell over 10%, indicating that third-party retailers are ordering less watches from the group’s brands, which in turn indicates the retailers’ pessimism for the short- and medium term. Swatch also explained the poor results by noting the group did not “make any redundancies… [and] maintaining all production capacities and not laying off qualified staff”. This was done so that “the Group [will] recover more quickly and benefit more significantly from the next upswing.” The progressively weakening positions of each of the group’s brands relative to the competition – marques like Breguet and Blancpain stand out in this regard – imply this might be overoptimistic. Notably, Swatch stated “the Swatch brand bucked the negative trend” thanks to the bestselling MoonSwatch, but this was not (and will not) be sufficient to help the rest of the group given the low value of Swat...

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H. Moser & Cie Jul 15, 2024

Moser’s Latest Perpetual is Minimalist and Purple Fired Enamel

H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base. It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect. Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction. The case back is etched with the Sincer...

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Chanel s Première Transformed Into Jul 15, 2024

Chanel’s Première Transformed Into a Necklace Watch with Headphones

Having launched the Première Édition Originale two years ago, a bestseller modelled on the No. 5 perfume bottle, Chanel has now extended the concept, literally, with the Première Sound Watch. It’s a necklace watch, or a montre sautoir, with a pair of wired earphones, or more specifically in-ear monitors (IEMs), that loop through the links of the chain. Initial thoughts Chanel is now a proper watchmaker with an expansive manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds (where the Monsieur is produced) and a stake in movement maker Kenissi, but it’s primarily a luxury fashion house that derives majority of its revenue from cosmetics and fashion. The Première Sound is very much a fashion watch – and an expensive one at that – but a logical creation that is both useful and instantly recognisable as Chanel. As an aside, the fact that the Première necklace watch is delivered with a pair of wired earphones, instead of wireless earbuds, is low tech but practical since it does away with flaky rechargeable batteries, which will inevitably extend its useful life. Importantly, the earphone cable loops into the necklace and is removable, meaning the Première Sound can revert to just being a necklace watch. Jennie of Korean girl group Blackpink with the Premiere Sound A bottle stopper watch Introduced in 1987, the Première is Chanel’s longest-lived bestseller. Its case is modelled on the cap of the No. 5 perfume bottle, itself inspired by the shape of the Place Vendôme, the square in ...

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Jul 12, 2024

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for Ladies

Having just launched the Sunlit Ivory edition for its Singapore retailer, Parmigiani now unveils the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for ladies. Though it retains the same dimensions and details, including the hand-guilloché dial, the new Tonda PF is available with a variety of diamond settings. Three versions are being launched, including a top-of-the-line model with lines of diamonds along the entire circumference of the watch and bracelet. The entry-level model, on the other hand, is two-tone rose gold and steel with diamond indices. The two-tone Tonda PF Automatic 36mm on the wrist Initial thoughts Although the Tonda PF 36 mm is one of many integrated-bracelet sports watch, it has a bit more of dress watch element to its design, especially in this 36 mm size. It’s more compact without sacrificing the sporty aspect of the model, making it quite versatile – the fact that it’s a convincing ladies’ sports watch in this new livery confirms that. Priced from CHF31,900 to CHF78,900 depending on the version, the new Tonda PF 36 mm is similarly to the competition. With integrated-bracelet sports watches being premium priced in general – reflecting an earlier fad – Tonda PF is a value proposition compared to alternatives when considering fit, finish, and materials. That said, I wish it was priced more competitively considering that Parmigiani is a newish brand without a historical lineage of sports watches that the “Holy Trinity” brands possess. A familiar design The t...

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Audemars Piguet Jul 11, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic

A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...

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Cartier Mr Chastaingt took Jul 11, 2024

Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches

Now having been director of Chanel’s watch creation studio for almost a dozen years, Arnaud Chastaingt has shaped the brand’s line-up of timepieces and time-telling objects, imbuing them with a distinctive yet versatile style that is still recognisably Chanel. After a decade at Cartier, Mr Chastaingt took the helm of the design studio as Chanel was expanding and refining its watch division. Besides the scaling up of its longtime manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where top-of-the-line movements like Calibre 1 are produced, Chanel also invested in Kenissi, the movement maker majority owned by Tudor. The brand’s investments in watchmaking have paid off, with its 2024 collection including the J12 Couture Workshop wristwatch powered by the in-house Calibre 6 that incorporates an automaton of Coco Chanel wielding a pair of scissors. While the engineering and mechanics are all located in Switzerland, Mr Chastaingt mandates the aesthetics from the brand’s headquarters in Paris, even designing the bridges of the in-house movements. He spoke to us about design, details, and why a brand like Chanel makes complicated watches for men. The interview was edited for clarity and length. A tiny ring watch modelled on a pin cushion set with pearls and diamonds. Image – Chanel SJX: I’ve seen the new collection and I’m impressed by the variety and design. The first question is, I see a comic-inspired theme with the character watches and the automaton, but these are serious mechan...

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Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater Jul 9, 2024

Hands On: F.P. Journe Élégante “Gino’s Dream”

Now a legend in his own time, François-Paul Journe is an independent watchmaker who has created some of the most complicated and most ingenious timepieces in contemporary watchmaking. But having quietly previewed it last year, Mr Journe finally launched a watch that is, on its face, surprising for his brand: the Élégante Gino’s Dream. Many brands have “rainbow” watches in their catalogues, but as is always the case with Mr Journe, his “rainbow” creation is done his own inimitable way. Based on his inventive quartz watch, the Élégante Gino’s Dream is set with synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic composite. The colours and model name are a tribute to the late Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021), one of Mr Journe’s best friends and a longtime business partner. Initial thoughts With the popularity – and value – of “rainbow” watches, it seems like every watch brand has one in its line-up, from the Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater in rainbow stones from end to end to Tudor’s special edition for the VCARB Formula 1 team. So an F.P. Journe in those colours isn’t surprising, yet the Élégante “Gino’s Dream” is unexpected. As with much he has done, Mr Journe didn’t do a “rainbow” like anyone else. Instead of an exceptionally expensive gem-set watch – a favoured approach as a sure way to increase revenue without boosting production – he created something entry-level, more or less. And the watch has a deeply personal aspect to it – Gino...

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Grand Seiko Unveils Jul 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”

Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...

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Urban Jürgensen Jul 8, 2024

Insight: Urban Jürgensen and the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters

An academic, horologist, and innovator, Urban Jürgensen is today best known for giving his name for the watch brand that’s now run by independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and his daughter, Venla. But Jürgensen was the most important watchmaker in Denmark in the early 19th century. He also developed a longstanding relationship with the most important Danish scientific society of the last three centuries, the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters (RDASL). This  article explores the relationship that shaped his work on clocks and watches. A need for precision Being a horologist in Denmark at the turn of the 19th century was not necessarily a very noble job. A handful were highly regarded workmen, but none were on par with scientists on the social ladder. Astronomers were buying English precision clocks for observatories and sailors still navigated by the movement of celestial bodies[1]. But times were changing, chronometers were already known to the king and government of Denmark, and the benefit of precision timekeepers for various types of expeditions was already becoming known around Europe. Mudge & Dutton astronomical regulator clock. Previously in the Observatory of Copenhagen, now located in the offices of the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters. Image – The Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters/A.B.L. As international conflicts were at the time were a limiting factor in importing chronometers from foreign countries, attempts were made...

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Urwerk Florian Bédat Jul 5, 2024

IAMWATCH in Singapore, an Independent Watchmaking-Centric Event

Singapore retailer The Hour Glass is staging IAMWATCH over four days in October 2024. The event is conceived as a gathering for watch enthusiasts with notable independent watchmakers in attendance, including Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, Florian Bédat and Gaël Petermann, Kari Voutilainen, Raúl Pagès, and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. IAMWATCH will serve as a platform for face-to-face engagement between watch enthusiasts and noted industry personalities like Aurel Bacs, Jean Arnault, Maximilian Büsser, and Pierre Biver, providing enthusiasts opportunities to connect and learn. The event includes presentations, lectures, and fireside chats with more than 40 industry insiders. IAMWATCH will be held at the Singapore Edition hotel. Admission is free and open to the public daily October 18-20, from 11 am-8 pm, however, registration is required and it can be done online at Iamwatch.com.  

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Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe Jul 5, 2024

Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe with Ceramic Bracelet

Blancpain just unveiled an all-ceramic bracelet to match the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe models in black ceramic: the time-and-date, flyback chronograph, and Quantième Complet (or triple calendar). Positioned as the entry-level model in the Fifty Fathom collection of historically-inspired dive watches, the Bathyscaphe has long been available in ceramic, so a bracelet is long overdue. According to Blancpain, each link of the bracelet unique in shape and size, so each link has to be manufactured individually, requiring an enormous amount of skilled labour – which helps to explain the price of almost US$8,000 for the bracelet. All three are now available with a matching bracelet Initial thoughts Though it was a pioneer in the dive watch as we know it, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has remained fairly under the radar, despite its relatively strong price-quality ratio. The ceramic bracelet for the Bathyscaphe helps it stand out, as few brands offer a matching bracelet for ceramic watches. While ceramic watch cases are common and found across the price spectrum, ceramic bracelets remain relatively uncommon, especially bracelets that are hand finished with a brushed surface like this. All links are manufactured individually, with each link differing in shape and size The ceramic bracelet is expensive – it costs just under US$8,000 extra compared to the same on a strap. That means the three-hand diver costs US$21,300, while the flyback chronograph and triple calendar are both US$...

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Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Jul 4, 2024

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production

Several months back, Tudor quietly released the Black Bay Ceramic Blue exclusively for the Visa Cash App RB (VCARB) Formula One team, with the dial colour modelled on the Visa logo. Today, the watch is available to the public (while the VCARB drivers will sport the more recent rainbow-dial “Chameleon” edition). Initial thoughts Tudor often listens to its audience, giving them what they want. Examples include the more compact Black Bay 58 GMT, and now the Black Bay Ceramic Blue. Intrinsically, the new Black Bay is technically and aesthetically perfect in its own way. It is the same Black Bay that has remained the brand’s bestseller since its launch, but in an unusual combination of black ceramic and blue. The brand has rolled out a number of special editions recently, which might dilute the concept somewhat. That said, this is the first instance of a publicly available Black Bay Ceramic special edition (unlike say the Black Bay 58), which makes it appealing. That said, the Black Bay Ceramic Blue is a great value proposition, as is usually the case for Tudor. It combines a ceramic case with an impressively spec’ed in-house movement that’s both METAS- and COSC-Certified, all for US$5,150, a price that few can rival. Visa Blue The highlight of the new Black Bay Ceramic is the matte blue dial (that’s arguably similar to the discontinued Rolex Submariner “Smurf” ref. 116619). It’s matched with applied hour markers and snowflake hands filled with white Super-Lum...

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Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets Jul 3, 2024

The Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets the Full Lume Treatment

Ressence has gently tweaked its flagship model to create the Type 5 L. Already unconventional in its original form, the new Type 5 is similar in style and function to the original but with a fully luminous dial that maximises legibility in the dark. As is tradition for the brand’s higher-end offerings, the Type 5 L features an oil-filled case that enhances visibility of the dial by eliminating a common problem underwater: refraction. Initial thoughts Dive watches rarely deviate from orthodoxy, exemplified by the Rolex Submariner. But then there is Ressence, which is unorthodox across all its watches, but in a sensible and thoughtful manner. The Type 5 L underwater The Type 5 L meets the ISO 6425 standard for a dive watch, but looks nothing like a typical dive watch. Even though the planetary sub-dials take some getting used to, legibility is good once you’re familiar with the dial layout. And the addition of lume enhances visibility, making this a logical evolution of the model. As is often the case with most of the brand’s top-end offerings, the only downside is the price of CHF34,500. Granted, the Type 5 L is unique in construction and form, and also executed to a high level of quality – but it is still pricey. The entire dial of the timepiece is luminous for legibility in dim light Oil-filled dial In terms of dimensions and materials, the Type 5 L is identical to its less luminous counterpart. The case is titanium, measuring 46 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm high....

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Vacheron Constantin since 2017 – during Jul 2, 2024

Business New: Louis Ferla Appointed CEO of Cartier

Capping several months of rumours, Richemont has just announced the appointment of Louis Ferla as the chief executive of Cartier. Having been in charge of Vacheron Constantin since 2017 – during which its annual sales tripled to about €1 billion – Mr Ferla succeeds Cyrille Vigneron, who is retiring after eight years at the top of the jewel in Richemont’s crown. This news comes just weeks after Nicolas Bos was named chief executive of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that also owns brands like Van Cleef & Arpels and IWC. Mr Bos was the longtime chief executive of Van Cleef & Arpels and will be replaced by Catherine Rénier, who’s been running Jaeger-LeCoultre since 2018. Elevating VC Officially assuming the coveted top job at Cartier on September 1, Mr Ferla has been with Richemont since 2001 when he joined Alfred Dunhill, before moving to Cartier in 2006 where he rose to International Director of Clients and Business. His tenure at Vacheron Constantin saw the brand increase both its sales and margins as the brand trimmed its retail network to focus on in-house boutiques, while also boosting its offerings of high-end, one-off Les Cabinotiers timepieces. Vacheron Constantin has yet to announce Mr Ferla’s replacement, but his deputy, chief commercial officer Laurent Perves, will step up as the interim chief executive. Mr Ferla’s name became the subject of conversations in the industry at end 2022, when it emerged he was one of the candidates to succeed Francois...

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Casio n worth marking Lange Jul 2, 2024

Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary

A. Lange & Söhne marks the 25th year of its landmark chronograph this year, with two commemorative editions so far – a tremendously expensive all-in-one edition and the relatively more accessible Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary. The first Datograph with a white gold case and also the first regular production model with a blue dial, the anniversary edition the result of a relatively modest cosmetic makeover – but unexpectedly compelling. Initial thoughts The Datograph in an imperfect watch – amongst other things it’s top heavy with a somewhat dated dial design – but it has an intrinsic appeal because its movement is outstanding. Even though it’s already 25 years old, the movement remains exceptional in terms of aesthetics. The fact that it’s 25 years old also makes the Datograph important, because Lange created such a movement long before such things became a thing. So the 25th anniversary of the Datograph is an occasion worth marking. Lange debuted two watches for the anniversary (with perhaps a third one to come): the complicated and expensive Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, and the more accessible Datograph 25th Anniversary. On its face the Datograph Up/Down seems a bit mundane for an anniversary watch. Both the blue dial and white gold case are unique for the Datograph, but together the watch doesn’t look or feel that different. But like the Datograph as a model, the anniversary edition is imperfect yet appealing. Though it is plain...

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Longines Unveils Jul 1, 2024

Longines Unveils the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in Titanium

Following the original Pilot Majetek in stainless steel, Longines has unveiled the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition with a titanium case and a grey-tone livery. Modelled on the original majetek aviator’s watch supplied to the Czechoslovakian air force in the 1930s, the limited edition is identical to the stainless steel variation in terms of design, dimensions, and movement, but is lightweight thanks to the case metal but also unexpectedly pricey. The Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in grade 5 titanium Initial thoughts The Pioneer Edition is Longines’ third re-issue of the original. Longines didn’t quite get it right with the first remake, the Heritage 1935. It lacked the rotating bezel with a triangular marker that was one of the defining features of the original, and also had an awkwardly positioned date window at six and “automatic” on the dial. Last year’s Pilot Majetek in steel was not really a remake since it has a distinctly different case design, but still gained several refinements over the Heritage 1935. However, the Pioneer Edition is not really a tangible improvement over the steel model. Thought the titanium case does bring with it lightness as well as a muted grey finish that goes well with the design, it comes at a big price increase of almost 40% over the steel version. Such a large premium for a titanium case doesn’t make much sense today given the difference in cost of a case in either material is negligible for a big brand. The Arabic indices, a...

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Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad Jul 1, 2024

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

For Ulysse Nardin, Watches & Wonders 2024 was all about the Freak S Nomad, which made its debut in a booth that featured a massive replica of the watch’s movement. While the Nomad is essentially just a new livery for an existing model, the aesthetic changes, which include a rotating guilloche dial, give the watch a sportier feel that suits the design. The Nomad is the second model in the Freak S collection after the original of 2022, and the latest in a long line of innovative watches that dates back to 2001. Interestingly, the Nomad is the first Freak to feature artisanal decoration, in the form of the guilloche dial, as compared to past models that have been more about technology than technique. Initial thoughts Mechanical watchmaking technology is fundamentally archaic, largely unchanged for more than a century. As a result, futuristically styled watches can easily come across as superficial. So it’s refreshing to consider the Nomad, which backs up its sci-fi styling with 21st-century materials and truly unique movement architecture that manages to be highly differentiated even a quarter-century after its launch. On paper, the Nomad is a large watch at 45 mm in diameter and 17 mm thick. Both of these numbers surprised me because after putting it on my wrist, it looks and feels smaller than it is. This is due, in part, to the lightweight titanium case, the muted colour palette, and the visual depth of the dial. Furthermore, the eye is naturally drawn to the central ...

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Hublot Unveils Jun 28, 2024

Hublot Unveils the Clean, Monochromatic Classic Fusion Essential Grey

Hublot just unveiled the third instalment of Essential Grey, a series of watches dressed in a cool monochrome. The latest addition is the Classic Fusion Essential Grey that’s available in two sizes of 42 mm and 45 mm. It’s a low-key look that sports a sun ray-brushed grey dial and titanium case. As is convention for Essential Grey, the pair are available only online. The case sports the iconic porthole-shaped bezel Initial thoughts While earlier Essential Grey models were chronographs, the new pair are simply, time-and-date watches. Despite being monochromatic, the Essential Grey chronographs looked busy. The Classic Fusion, on the other hand, is a perfect match for the monochromatic palette. The design is as clean as a Hublot can be, which complements the colour scheme well. Already a wearable watch in itself, the Classic Fusion in this restrained styling is made even more wearable. The only weakness of the watch is the price. At US$8,500, the Classic Fusion Essential Grey is amongst the most affordable Hublot models, but it costs that much despite the basic Sellita SW300 movement inside. The SW300 is a strong performer but inexpensive and usually found in correspondingly inexpensive watches. I know that Hublot is working on a workhorse in-house calibre to take the place of the SW300, but until then the price is stiff. Porthole The Classic Fusion Essential Grey is available in 42 mm and 45 mm variants, with both identical save for the case dimensions. The 42 mm versio...

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H. Moser & Cie Unveils Jun 28, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Its Most Complicated Streamliner to Date

The most complicated H. Moser & Cie. sports watch to date, the Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Blue Enamel is derived from the unique Streamliner Pandamonium created in collaboration with MB&F;. The new Streamliner retains both the minute repeater and tourbillon, but without the panda figure and the oversized balance wheel. In typical Moser “concept” style, the blue grand feu enamel dial is free of any markings and finished with a fumè gradient effect that darkens towards the periphery. Also found in the Endeavour, the movement was developed in collaboration with specialist Manufacture Hautes Complications (MHC). Initial thoughts Since Moser released the Streamliner four years ago, the sports watch has become the brand’s bestseller – unsurprisingly given the popularity of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch category in general. The new repeater-tourbillon fills in a gap in the Streamliner range, which is to say a top-of-the-line, flagship complication. Both minute repeater and flying tourbillon are visible on the dial If you like the Streamliner design, as I do, the new repeater-tourbillon is a handsome watch. The addition of the visible mechanisms on the dial add greater detail and depth to the visuals, while the fired enamel dial is a nice tough, though a fragile enamel dial is somewhat paradoxical in a sports watch. The repeater-tourbillon is similar in dimensions to the Streamliner chronograph, a good size for a sports watch of this design. The ...

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Breguet Introduces Jun 27, 2024

Breguet Introduces the Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345 in Rose Gold

Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a patent for the tourbillon on June 16, 1801. On the birthday of his celebrated invention, Breguet launches the facelifted, rose gold iteration of the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345. The brand’s most formidable tourbillon, the Double Tourbillon is a remarkable timepiece that blends forward-thinking mechanics with traditional craftsmanship, all presented in a striking, oversized case. Initial thoughts  While the newest iteration of the Double Tourbillon collection is not actually new (the original version was launched four years ago), the complication never ceases to amaze. The watch is an impressive demonstration of artisanal skill, with open worked movement revealing a plethora of decorated surfaces, each showcasing a different finishing technique.  The three-dimensional calibre is built upon an 18k rose gold main plate that’s been engine turned with a new wave guilloche developed by Breguet. And the reverse of the watch reveals the bridges of the movement that are entirely hand engraved with a detailed scene of 19th century Paris. Beyond the artisanal finishes, the movement is a highly technical affair. It features no dial, with the movement forming the face. Not only does it include two tourbillon regulators, each with its own going train and barrel, but half of the movement itself is geared to rotate once every 12 hours. The watch is large for the classic Breguet style, but the chunky case is i...

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Ulysse Nardin  will continue after Jun 26, 2024

Business News: LVMH Acquires Clockmaker L’Epée 1839

Known for its three-dimensional clocks ranging from the Batmobile to a Chanel sculpture, L’Epee 1839 has carved out a niche for itself as the clockmaker to leading watch and luxury brands. Now it becomes part of LVMH, the luxury conglomerate that owns Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. The acquisition expands the portfolio of the LVMH Watches Division to encompass an entirely new product category that is small but lucrative and also high profile. Clocks are increasingly a must-have offering for major luxury brands. One of L’Epee’s most recent creations was the Louis Vuitton Montgolfière Aéro clock (pictured above). Another of L’Epee’s creations, the Tiffany Taxi. Image – Tiffany & Co. Business as usual LVMH has acquired the parent of L’Epee, Swiza, which also makes clocks under the Swiza and Matthew Norman brands. Arnaud Nicolas, who has been chief executive and creative director of L’Epee since 2009, will continue leading the company. Despite the change in ownership, the clockmaker’s work for other brands, which have included MB&F; and Ulysse Nardin, will continue after the acquisition. However, L’Epee will certainly work with more brands in the LVMH stable, having already created clocks for Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., and Hublot. “L’Epée has initiated a number of watchmaking partnerships that we will maintain and develop with Arnaud Nicolas [chief executive and creative director of L’Epee],” says Frédéric Arnault, the chairman of LV...

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Breitling s “Time Capsule” Jun 26, 2024

Exhibition: Breitling’s “Time Capsule” on Four Continents

Time Capsule: The Breitling Heritage Exhibition is coming to a Breitling boutique near you as it makes 55 stops across four continents over the course of 2024. On show are the most significant vintage timepieces – mostly chronographs naturally – from the brand’s 140-year history, including the first-ever chronograph with a pusher separate from the crown, a 1915 invention of Gaston Breitling. Many of the watches on show were the first of their kind, hence the exhibition’s tagline “140 Years of Firsts”. Amongst the other highlights is the Navitimer with its slide rule bezel that Breitling describes as the first flight computer for the wrist, and the Chrono-Matic, the first self-winding chronograph movement developed by a consortium that included Breitling. Amongst the more recent timepieces is the Emergency, the first wristwatch with a built-in distress beacon. The vintage timepieces are exhibited in streamer-trunk display cases tailored to each boutique with QR codes in the showcases that provide additional historical detail Vintage timepieces are the main highlights of the show. The exhibition is making stops in key cities in the Americas, Europe, Oceania, the Middle East, and Asia, with some stops happening concurrently. Each stop will be for one to two weeks in the local Breitling boutique. Time Capsule is open to the public. Scheduling an appointment is not mandatory but recommended. A few of the cities that will host the exhibition are as follows, for the ...

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Patek Philippe Jun 26, 2024

News: Watches & Wonders 2025 Dates, with Additions to the WWG Board

The world’s most important watch trade show, Watches & Wonders, has just announced the dates for next year: April 1-7, 2025. Practically all major luxury watch brands present their latest wares at Watches & Wonder (W&W;), including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier. The event also named additions to the board of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF), the governing body of the event. Chanel, Hermès and LVMH join Rolex, Richemont, Patek Philippe, and Cartier on the board, giving representation to the biggest brands or groups showing at the event. Alongside the enlarged board, the WWGF appointed Cartier chief executive Cyrille Vigneron chairman of the board, taking over from Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, who now becomes the organisation’s treasurer. Still a key man on the board, Jean-Frederic Dufour (second from left) Give and take The changes at WWGF reflect longstanding rivalry between the brands and groups that emerged when the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, better known as SIHH, evolved into W&W; after the demise of Baselworld. Previously dominated by Richemont and Cartier, SIHH transformed into an event that included giants like Rolex and LVMH. LVMH long believed it deserved a seat on the board, according to a senior executive of its watch division. It is possible that the elevation of Cartier’s boss to the chairmanship is a concession for the jewellery agreeing to the enlarged board. Interestingly, the two-year term of Mr Vign...

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Cartier Jun 25, 2024

Exhibition: ‘Musubi’ – 50 Years of Cartier in Japan

In 1974, Cartier opened its first boutique in Japan and now marks its 50th anniversary in the country with MUSUBI – Half-Century of Cartier in Japan and Beyond: an Everlasting Dialogue of Beauty and Art, an exhibition of jewels, watches, and objet d’art taking place at the Hyokeikan building in the Tokyo National Museum from June 12 to July 28, 2024. The theme of the event is 結び (musubi), which translates literally as “conclusion” but its constituent characters can mean “the power of the divine spirit is produced by being bound together.” Tokyo National Museum with the flag of the exhibition under its dome Taking place in the building’s two symmetrical wings, the exhibition will be presented in parallel narratives separated into two main sections: “Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty” and “Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain and Japanese Artists, a Never-Ending Conversation.” The exhibition’s scenography was designed by Studio Adrien Gardère to display the heritage of Hyokeikan’s architecture, while illustrating Cartier’s tribute to Japanese culture. The design is notably inspired by Tokonoma and Sukiya, traditional styles of Japanese architecture, and reflects Cartier’s spirited connection with the country, utilising Japanese industrial scaffolding techniques to stage all the artists on show. The section of the exhibition displaying “Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty.” The exhibition features 120 piece...

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Jacob & Co. Jun 24, 2024

The Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon and its V16 Engine Automaton

Just after Bugatti took the covers off its Tourbillon hypercar, Jacob & Co. presents a watch to match, the Bugatti Tourbillon. Integrating some of the most distinct design elements of the car, the Tourbillon watch is extravagant in both style and mechanics, combining a retrograde time indication with a flying tourbillon, and a striking automaton modelled on a V16 engine.  Initial thoughts As over the top as the Tourbillon wristwatch might be at first, it unexpectedly incorporates subtle details and nods to the newest Bugatti automobile. Apart from the obvious engine automaton, the watch case is modelled on the car’s unique instrument cluster layout and indications. The mechanical instrument cluster in the Bugatti Tourbillon hypercar The piece is unapologetically automotive, taking the same approach in emulating the eponymous hypercar first seen in the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon. Like the Chiron wristwatch, the Tourbillon is an oversized mechanical object for the wrist. A mini engine Clearly the showpiece of the Tourbillon is the V16 engine automaton with an engine block milled from sapphire. The mock engine features eight pairs of articulated titanium pistons and polished parts modelled on the intake manifolds of an actual Bugatti V16. When the automaton is engaged, the pistons “fire up” in the appropriate sequence, putting on a very interesting show.  Above the V16 engine block sits the time indication. Arranged to resemble the instrument cluster found ...

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Jun 24, 2024

Paradise Found: Exploring Van Cleef & Arpels’ Automatons

In 1906, Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, united not only in matrimony but also in an unbridled passion for the art of jewellery, laid the foundations of what would become Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;). As the firm grew in stature and acclaim, it became clear that the founders’ vision extended beyond the realm of high jewellery. Like other storied makers before them, such as the renowned house of Fabergè, they ventured into the worlds of objet d’art and horology, sometimes blending the two, where the measuring of time transcended the ordinary and entered the realm of the extraordinary. The Varuna model The objects crafted by VC&A; during the early decades of the 20th century extend beyond conventional boundaries, offering a canvas for fulfilling unusual special orders. One such emblematic example is the scale model of the Varuna, a yacht commissioned by Eugene Higgins, a New York millionaire at the turn of the last century. In enamelled gold, the vessel gracefully rests on a sea of sculpted jasper mounted on an ebony base. Its funnel is an aesthetic marvel and its bell, functional, echoing the era’s sophisticated craftsmanship. Although the jewellery house has long since passed into the ownership of Swiss luxury group Richemont, at its heart lies the same philosophy that imagines the world as it should be - a paradise in the universal sense - one overflowing with happiness and boundless imagination. This has shaped the whimsical, elegant collections of the brand...

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