SJX Watches · Page 32

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Breguet Classique Pair Oct 28, 2024

A Breguet Classique Pair in Black Grand Feu Enamel

Employing traditional Breguet style but with a twist, the Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are variants of existing models but gain a high-contrast makeover with a black grand feu enamel dial and platinum case – a uncommon and striking combination for a largely conservative brand. Initial thoughts Though white enamel is the default, Breguet has been adding colours to its enamel offerings in recent years, including blue enamel for the Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367. In fact, the Classique 5177 was already available with a blue enamel dial for several years. However, the 5177 and 7787 are amongst the most striking thanks to their stark palette. While neither are actually new models, both are good looking watches that exemplify the Breguet style while being a little different. All the stylistic elements are traditional Breguet, but the monochromatic colours give the duo a stark, modern feel. The 5177 is almost a perfect dress watch, but it has a date at three that gets in the way. That said, the date is less prominent on the black dial than it is on the white version. More appealing (and also more expensive), the 7787 brings to mind vintage Breguet pocket watches with its oversized power reserve display, while the moon phase adds texture and colour to the dial. Black and silver Both the 5177 and 7787 share the same livery of a black enamel dial and platinum case. Platinum is relatively uncommon in the Breguet catalogue, and here it’s used for both the case and crown....

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Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar PAM01453 Oct 28, 2024

The Elegantly Concise Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar PAM01453

Panerai raised some eyebrows when it installed the newly developed perpetual calendar movement in the beefy Luminor. Now the brand brings the complication to its more elegant, but still oversized, wristwatch with the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453. Initial thoughts The Radiomir collection has always been Panerai’s most elegant offering, with some older models even being dress watches, albeit in Panerai style. The slimmer cushion-shaped case, wire lugs, and onion crown evoke the early wristwatches. Compared to the bulkier Luminor, the Radiomir is more adaptable in terms of design and complications, and consequently sometimes departs from the brand’s signature military look. A complication such as a perpetual calendar tends to fit better in more classical designs. For that reason, the perpetual calendar didn’t feel at home in the Luminor format. Bringing the perpetual calendar to the Radiomir seems like the sensible thing to do. The PAM01453 is handsome, especially with a case in Goldtech, Panerai’s proprietary rose gold alloy of platinum and copper that the brand claims to have superior durability.  Though more elegant, the PAM01453 is still a rather large watch in typical Panerai style and measures 45mm across. The slim lugs and the leather strap should increase wearability to some extent, but the piece remains imposing. The P.4100 The PAM01453 celebrates in part the first Panerai watch prototype that was developed in 1935, a timepiece that was ...

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Carl F. Bucherer s Retro Worldtimer Oct 25, 2024

Carl F. Bucherer’s Retro Worldtimer with Peripheral-Wind Movement

In a departure from its usual modern designs, Carl F. Bucherer’s latest is the Heritage Worldtimer. Modelled on a typical 1950s world time wristwatch, the Heritage Worldtimer sports two crowns - on at three to set the time, another at nine to adjust the cities disc. The A2020 movement inside, however, is a modern creation. The automatic calibre features a peripheral rotor, an invention that dates to the 1950s but was only perfected in the 21st century. However, the calibre comes with a caveat: it’s not a true world time complication, and instead relies on just a rotating cities disc. Initial thoughts Tried-and-tested vintage-inspired reissues are often easy wins so they are common. While the Heritage Worldtimer might seem like one of those on its face, it stands out on several counts, including the simple fact that vintage-inspired world-time watches are uncommon. The design is also vintage inspired, rather than a remake of a specific watch, so it has a generic 1950s feel rather than looking like a scaled-up version of a vintage watch. And the novel, modern movement is a useful complement to the historical design. Though the watch is looks like a world time, it is not actually a world time complication. In other words, the hour hand does not move in tandem with the cities disc as on an actual world time. Rather it is a time-only watch with a rotating cities disc that does the job of indicating time zones, but it is not sophisticated in terms of mechanics. Starting a...

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Zenith Introduces Defy Skyline Big Oct 25, 2024

Zenith Introduces Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee

For the Singapore retailer’s 70th anniversary, Zenith debuts the Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. In a first for the model line, the limited edition combines a big date and flyback chronograph, while the case and integrated bracelet are in sandblasted titanium for a clean, monochromatic aesthetic. Initial thoughts Best known for the landmark El Primero high-frequency chronograph movement, Zenith also jumped on the fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches with the Defy Skyline. The angular case and polygonal bezel bring to mind other designs, but like other Zenith offerings, the Defy Skyline is appealing because it’s well priced and equipped with a solid movement. The Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is no exception. In fact, it’s one of the best looking iterations of the model with its all-grey look. Even though the colours are muted, this iteration of the Defy Skyline stands out. Priced at 22,200 Singapore dollars (about US$17,000), the Sincere edition is priced competitively for what you get, which includes an El Primero calibre with extra complications. El Primero The Sincere edition has the signature Defy Skyline design of a dodecagonal bezel, angular case with oversized pushers, and an integrated bracelet. The case and bracelet are sandblasted to a smooth matte finish, resulting in a striking, deep grey tone. The titanium case is 42 mm in diameter and 47.4 mm lug-to-lug. Despite the seemingly large case, the Defy Skyline is weara...

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Casio n Oct 24, 2024

30 Years of the Lange 1 with Onyx or Blue

It seems like just yesterday that A. Lange & Söhne celebrated its 25th anniversary with the 10-piece Lange 1 set. But turning 30 is always a big deal, and the brand has risen to the occasion with limited editions of its flagship Lange 1 and its smaller sibling, the Little Lange 1, including a version with the brand’s first-ever mineral stone dial on a watch without gemstones. Both the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 30th Anniversary are available in pink gold with a navy blue dial, or in platinum with a black dial – both versions evoking uncommon historical versions of the model. Lange typically reserves the latter configuration for its special editions, and in this case the degree of specialness is dialled up a notch with a dial crafted from black onyx. Initial thoughts It’s no secret that I have a soft spot for Lange. Nevertheless, I’ve never warmed up to their black-dialled watches, including the Datograph, which I feel look a bit flat. Judging by the press images, the black onyx dial of the Lange 1 30th anniversary is a different animal; deep and glossy. The pink gold and navy blue references are also attractive, but it’s the platinum and black models that immediately captured my attention and have continued to occupy my thoughts. In most ways, the 30th anniversary editions of the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 are no different from the standard models. The cases measure 38.5 mm and 36.8 mm, respectively, and are about 10 mm thick. Naturally, the platinum models are ...

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Patek Philippe ref 2523 world time Oct 23, 2024

Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH

The first large scale watch fair I attended as Tempus in Singapore in 2004. A teenager then, I was fairly new to watches and found everything endlessly interesting. History never repeats but it rhymes, as the saying goes. Iamwatch just concluded in Singapore. In many ways it was similar to Tempus: also staged by local retailer The Hour Glass, a watch fair of sizeable scale, but unlike the 2004 event, Iamwatch was largely focused on independent watchmakers. Most crucially, it was also casual – the prescribed attire was Hawaiian shirt – which allowed for more personal interactions with industry personalities. As one of the largest retailers in the world, The Hour Glass has the pull to round up watch enthusiasts, and a great number turned up for Iamwatch, ranging from mega-collectors to royalty. Naturally, the watches spotted were diverse and often incredible. Many multi-million-dollar watches were circulating within the event, including famous examples that sold for record prices at auction, including the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature. And even the Patek Philippe Cubitus was spotted on several wrists, the day after its launch in Munich. But 20 years on after Tempus, the enjoyment, significance, and enduring memories of an event like Iamwatch – for me personally – is no longer the watches, but the people. It was the moments, often during downtime or after the doors closed, when I got to converse with watchmakers ...

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Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 Breguet’s Oct 23, 2024

Up Close: Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367

Breguet’s ultra-thin tourbillon has been in its catalogue for some years now, but it remains one of the brand’s most sophisticated tourbillon models. The Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is just 7.45 mm high, making it one of the thinnest self-winding tourbillon watches on the market, a feat made possible thanks to clever peripheral winding. Though its movement is the brand’s latest tourbillon calibre, the 5367 is presented in classic Breguet style – with the enamel dial here or as the 5365 with a guilloche dial – and retains the quintessential Breguet elegance. Initial thoughts Unlike Breguet’s flagship tourbillon model, the massive Double Tourbillon 5345, the 5367 is slim, elegant, and feels like a classical Breguet. In terms of proportions the 5367 is comparable to the 7637 minute repeater, but the tourbillon is thinner and importantly, boasts a more modern movement. The enamel dial is available in traditional white or contemporary blue While the 7637 repeater is powered by a movement that has its roots in the 1980s, the 5367 contains the cal. 581, which is instantly recognisable as a recent construction. The most obvious giveaway is the automatic rotor camouflaged on the periphery, while the tourbillon contains a silicon escapement. The modernity of the construction means the cal. 581 lacks the old-school charm of Breguet’s earlier tourbillon movements, but the sophistication of the cal. 581 is undeniable. Not only is it exceptionally thin, it manages an impre...

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Seiko Sports Duo Exclusively for SE Asia Seiko Oct 22, 2024

Affordable Seiko Sports Duo Exclusively for SE Asia

Seiko has just announced a pair of regional exclusives for its longtime distributor in Southeast Asia, the Seiko 5 Sports SSK043K1 and Prospex Speedtimer SSC951P1 Thong Sia Group Editions. Available only in Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Brunei, the Thong Sia Group (TSG) limited editions are inspired by basketball, hence the salmon dials with black accents that echo the colour of the balls. The solar-powered Speedtimer chronograph Initial thoughts Seiko produces some of the best offerings in the affordable price segment, and the TSG duo demonstrate that amply with strong price-performance ratios. The Seiko 5 Sports, for instance, is an automatic with second time zone for 654 Singapore dollars, or about US$500. While the basketball link is a bit of a stretch, the metallic-finish copper (or “salmon”) dials are appealing. Though the shade is popular, the colour is less common in affordable sports watches in this price range, making this pair a little more interesting. The Seiko 5 Sports with a GMT function A handy travel watch The TSG edition is based on the Seiko 5 Sports GMT, which is basically a diver-style watch with a second time zone function. It has a stainless steel case that is 42.5 mm in diameter and 13.6 mm high. Water resistant to 100 m, the case is satin-brushed on top with mirror-polished bevels on the side of the lugs. In traditional Seiko 5 style, it has the crown positioned at four o’clock, which was originally conceived to indicate the w...

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Breitling before founding his eponymous Oct 21, 2024

Berneron Introduces the Mirage 34

Having recently delivered the first batch of its debut model, the Mirage 38, Berneron is back with the smaller Mirage 34. Available with lapis lazuli or tiger eye dials, the watch features an organic, flowing shape and proportions based on the Fibonacci sequence. The brainchild of founder Sylvain Berneron, a product designer who gained experience at IWC and Breitling before founding his eponymous brand, the Mirage 34 is powered by the cal. 215, a new hand-wound movement developed specifically for this model that retains its predecessor’s asymmetric shape and 18k gold bridges. Initial Thoughts The Mirage 34 is a striking watch. It retains the soft, melting form of its larger sibling, the Mirage 38, but adds hand-cut stone dials to the equation; lapis lazuli and tiger eye for the white and yellow gold models, respectively. If my experience wearing the Mirage 38 is anything to go on, the watch is likely to have a lot more visual wrist presence than its dimensions suggest and should have unisex appeal. The svelte case measures 30 mm by 34 mm, and is just 7 mm thick. Visually, some of that height disappears thanks to the domed sapphire crystal; the case itself is only 5.3 mm in height. The Mirage 38 is a dream on the wrist, and I expect the Mirage 34 to wear equally well, with surprising heft for its size and a low centre of gravity. The manually wound cal. 215 is a new design, produced for Berneron by an external supplier. It beats at an unusual 3.5 hz and runs for 72 hours,...

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Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref 5821 Oct 17, 2024

Review: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821 and Ref. 5822P

Patek Philippe has finally debuted the long-awaited Cubitus, a collection of “elegant sporty” watches. The Cubitus is an oversized square watch with an unexpectedly elegant profile – and some echoes of the Nautilus. While that might seem like an odd recipe, the Cubitus is a successful new creation. The collection is led by the flagship Cubitus ref. 5822P Instantaneous Grand Date (pictured above) in platinum powered by an all-new calibre. The Cubitus ref. 5822P in profile The bestseller, however, will be the entry-level model, the Cubitus ref. 5821/1A, a time-and-date in steel with an olive-green dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1AR is also a three-hander with date, but in two-tone steel and 18k rose gold with a blue dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1A Initial thoughts The most discussed new launch of the year, the Cubitus is many things – “elegant sporty”, a relative of the Nautilus, and controversial – but it also surprises on the upside. I like the Cubitus, especially the base model in steel. The large square bezel complements the “ears” on either side of the case, and the bracelet integrates unexpectedly well into the design. The Cubitus has obviously inherited genes from the Nautilus – Thierry Stern himself acknowledges that – but the result is more natural than the angular bezel suggests. And Cubitus doesn’t merely transplant cosmetics, but also employs the unique one-piece case construction of the Nautilus. Importantly, the Cubitus has good ergonomics....

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Breguet Oct 17, 2024

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10 Chronograph

Less than two months have elapsed since Albishorn made its debut, but the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet is back with the Type 10, an “imaginary vintage” prequel to the Type 20 pilot’s watch made famous by Breguet. Available with black or green textured dials, the Type 10 features a proprietary manually wound monopusher chronograph movement with an unusual layout that differentiates it from other Type 20-inspired watches. Though not a limited edition, the Type 10 will be produced in small batches of just 25 watches in each livery. Initial thoughts Conceptually, I like the idea of “imaginary vintage” – the brand’s tagline – because it liberates the design from the constraints of the past and avoids coming off as a copy or homage. While I don’t like every detail of the Type 10, there’s a lot to be excited about, especially as a preview of what might be coming next from the fledgling brand. The Type 10 is powered by the proprietary ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph movement that, like the Maxigraph, shares some of the architecture of the ubiquitous Valjoux 7750. But to call this a cal. 7750 would be to miss the numerous refinements implemented by Dr Chaulmontet that result in a slimmer movement with, reportedly, a more pleasant pusher action. The Type 10 retains many of the best features of the Maxigraph, including its case. Interestingly, the case is not quite identical; the Type 10’s case is slightly thinner on account of its manually wound ...

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Massena Lab Continuing Oct 17, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab

Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...

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MB&F; Oct 16, 2024

Hand Engraved and Unique, the MB&F; LM Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet”

MB&F; is well known for its ability to consistently produce timepieces that are as much sculpture as technical marvels. In its latest collaboration, MB&F; leans heavily on the artisanal side of watchmaking, with a dose of literary influence. Executed by the namesake master engraver, the MB&F; Legacy Machine Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet” is a limited series of eight unique pieces, each depicting a scene from famous novels, ranging from The Three Musketeers to Moby Dick. Initial thoughts The LM SE “Eddy Jaquet” is arguably a true, multifaceted work of art that just happens to be wearable. Mr Jaquet’s work is amongst the best, and the LM SE happens to be a perfect canvas for it thanks to the particular set up of the dial that leaves practically the entire dial disc free for engraving. Making such an ornate watch usually requires compromise in terms of time telling, with watchmakers often favouring an expansive decorated dial over prominent hands. The LM SE somehow manages to keep all of its sub-dials, along with the LM’s trademark exposed balance. These elements do not take away from the centrepiece, which is the engraved dial plate. The elaborate execution of the LM SE comes at a hefty price, CHF158,000, which is almost double the cost of a standard LM SE. A quiet master engraver While not a widely recognised name, Eddy Jaquet was actually one of the original “friends” of MB&F; since the brand’s early days. Back in 2011, he hand-engraved the names of Kari Vout...

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IWC Reveals Details Oct 15, 2024

IWC Reveals Details of Ceramic Matrix Composite

Having made its debut with the Big Pilot AMG G 63 a year ago, ceramic matrix composite (CMC) is an innovative material currently unique to IWC in watchmaking. Little was disclosed about the material at launch, but IWC has just released additional detail on CMC. Notably, the material was developed in collaboration with the Deutsches Zentrum für Luft- und Raumfahrt (DLR), or German Aerospace Center, a national research institute specialising in aerospace, travel, energy, and even quantum computing. While novel materials are common in watchmaking, brands rarely reveal the origin of the materials, making this collaboration notable. Moreover, the DLR is a highly regarded, independent technical institute, which arguably gives CMC more credibility (and cachet) than most composites employed in watchmaking. Utilising a space-qualified like CMC in a watch tied to a high-performance SUV, however, seems to be a missed opportunity, though it’s a certainty IWC has plans for the the material. Blocks of CMC Staying true to size Fibre ceramic composites are a new class of materials, which combine the surface hardness of conventional ceramics with high tolerance to mechanical and thermal shocks. DLR’s previous work with ceramic composites revolved around making large components for aerospace applications, namely rockets or satellites. The institute was looking to adapt its short-fibre pressing technology for making smaller, near-net-shape parts – not unlike a watch case. Near-net-sha...

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Breguet numerals Oct 15, 2024

The Habring² Oskar is a Classical Moon Phase

Described by Habring² as “a relative of Felix“, the Oskar shares the brand’s signature A11 movement but gains a calendar module, with the seconds at six or central. Launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Habring², the Oskar makes its debut in three different variants, a pair with date-and-moon and the final model with just a moon phase. All three feature the same classical aesthetic with Breguet numerals and a compact, 38.5 mm case. Initial thoughts The Oskar is an excellent example of what the Austrian independent has to offer – appealing, clean aesthetics paired with the excellent, proprietary A11 movement, and a price tag of well under US$8,000. And the Oskar also reflect Habring²’s technical competence that the brand managed to squeeze the complication module into a 9 mm high case, with the movement alone being just 5.5 mm high. Admittedly, the vintage-inspired styling might be a little generic, although it is easily appealing. The design is well-executed with a properly proportioned dial and thoughtful details. As is typical for Habring², the Oskar is an honest product and an excellent value proposition, with the moon phase model priced at €6,050 and the moon phase with pointer date about 10% more. Mid century style  The case is a simple, fuss-free affair that is similar to that found on other Habring² models, including the Felix. Entirely polished, the stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 9 mm in thickness for both versions. All three m...

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Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Oct 14, 2024

In-Depth: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with White Lacquer Dial

In late 2023, a then-unknown Moonwatch with a white dial was seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig. The mysterious watch turned out to be the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” that was officially unveiled in March 2024. Notably, it was released a regular production, instead of limited edition. An iconic design, the Omega Speedmaster Professional is best known as the Moonwatch with the classic black dial. The model’s relative ubiquity – the Speedmaster has been in production for nearly seven decades – makes dial variants compelling (but also numerous, often as limited editions) as a refreshing alternative to the quintessential black dial. Initial Impressions The subject of significant attention on social media when it first emerged on Mr Craig’s wrist, the new Moonwatch is a surprising release that goes beyond a cosmetic tweak of dial colour. It sports tangible differences to the dial furnishing that provide a sense of refinement over the regular black dial, namely the lacquered finishing and applied indices. And even though the dial is recognisably different, and arguably improved in terms of details, it retains the signature elements of the classic Moonwatch, including the stepped construction. Beyond that, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Moonwatch with black dial, which isn’t a bad thing because the “standard” model is now in its latest generation. The classic Moonwatch was revamped in 2021 with subtle yet pe...

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Oct 11, 2024

Exhibition: 30 Years of the Lange 1 in Singapore

A. Lange & Söhne is marking the 30th anniversary of arguably its most famous wristwatch with an exhibition in Singapore. 30 Years of the Lange 1 will take place in ION Orchard October 24-29, 2024. Besides showcasing significant Lange 1 models, the exhibition also encompasses demonstrations by a master engraver from the Lange manufacture in Glashütte. The event is open to the public but registration is required. A cornerstone of the German brand since it was revived in 1994, the Lange 1 is defined by an orderly, yet asymmetrical dial with an outsized date and power reserve. The design instantly distinguished itself from practically everything else on the market at the time and became the “face” of the Lange 1. The exhibition will present the many variations of the Lange 1 introduced over the years, starting with the original yellow gold model of 1994. Also on show will be the 10-piece Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” series, as well as less common models like the Lange 1 “Luminous”, which is not part of the now-famous Lumen series and instead was originally conceived as a sporty Lange watch. Present daily at the exhibition will be an artisan from Lange’s engraving department, which is responsible for the hand-engraved balance cocks found in all Lange movements. Armed with a fine-tipped burin, the artisan will demonstrate the art of engraving, just as it is done at the manufacture in Glashütte. Finally, the exhibition will also debut video interviews of Lange owne...

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Panerai Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 Celebrates Oct 11, 2024

The Panerai Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 Celebrates Paneristi’s 25 Years

Established in 2000 just as Panerai was started on its ascent to being the hottest brand of the following decade, Paneristi is a community of brand enthusiasts. Panerai is marking the group’s 25th anniversary with the Luminor Venticinque PAM02025, which was just launched at P-Day 2024, an annual global gathering of Panerai fans that just took place in Kuala Lumpur. According to Panerai, the PAM02025 was conceived as a modern take on the Luminor 1950 PAM00127 “Fiddy”. Employing the 44 mm Luminor 1950 case, the PAM02025 has the classic Luminor design, but with modern aesthetic tweaks, including a “brunito” steel case of brushed, aged alloy and a gradient blue “sandwich” dial. Initial thoughts The PAM02025 has many elements that will appeal to Panerai enthusiasts who like its traditional designs, including the pencil hands and “upside down” crown-lock bridge. Panerai certainly took note of the feedback about the prior Paneristi edition that sported a large anniversary emblem on the dial (which is now relegated to the case back). It’s best described as a modernised take on the historical Luminor since the design is old school, but the smoked blue dial and “brunito” steel case mark it out as a watch of today. No doubt some Paneristi will have left out the modern elements and opted for the larger, 47 mm case plus a correspondingly larger movement, but the PAM02025 is a good compromise between new and old – different but doesn’t feel like it’s trying...

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Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years Oct 10, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition

Vacheron Constantin is marking the 20th anniversary of its vintage-inspired line of dress watches with a limited edition conceived by French designer Ora Ito (whose studio is known as Ora ïto). The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ïto is all about “Simplexity”, Mr Ito’s preferred design philosophy: a simple appearance that belies complexity. Although the Patrimony looks like a simple, conventional model at first glance, the dial incorporates additional details visible only upon close inspection, such as the wave-like concentric pattern that decorate its surface. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the “Holy Trinity” in Swiss watchmaking, and the Patrimony Ora ïto demonstrates why. It is a simple watch, showing just the time and date, yet presented with an intricately detailed dial and excellent in-house movement. Moreover, the Patrimony Self-Winding model is based on the ref. 6187 of 1957 but the design still feels current and avoids seeming like a vintage remake. The Patrimony Ora ïto costs US$35,300, which is fair value all things considered. It’s a small run of 100 watches with an appealing, unique dial design and it retails for less than a regular production Patek Philippe Calatrava. Simplexity The intricately patterned dial is gilded brass and stamped with a concentric patterns that’s meant to evoke ripples on the water. The pattern starts at the centre and continues to the periphery, with a subtle break to form th...

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Tissot Revives Oct 10, 2024

Tissot Revives the Cheap-and-Cheerful Stylist

Released in 1965 as an inexpensive watch for young people, the Tissot Stylist has just been brought back to life for the same reason. Featuring a minimalist, retro aesthetic with a cushion-shaped case, the Stylist is thin at 7 mm high and contains a quartz movement. Retailing for just US$275, the Stylist is one of the most affordable offerings from an establishment Swiss brand, putting it in the same price range as startup micro-brands sold only online. Initial thoughts Tissot is a Swiss brand with a noteworthy history, but now focuses on (very) affordable watches. Though the Stylist is a basic proposition – steel and quartz – it fits perfectly into the Tissot value equation. The Stylist is a vintage-inspired design with a historical basis – and history is something micro-brands lack – at an extremely low price. The version with a gradient blue dial is particularly retro and appealing. For the teenage (or even child) watch enthusiast, this is a good choice. Retro blue The original Stylist was actually a line of various watches launched in 1965 as a watch for the young. Available in a range of case shapes, the Stylist was conceived to be trendy and affordable. The modern Stylist is modelled on one of the cushion-shaped originals, and retains the compact sizing of the original. Its stainless steel case is 32 mm in diameter and just 7 mm. Though basic, the case has a robust modern construction. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal and water resistant to 50 m. Notably,...

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Hermes logo Oct 9, 2024

Artisanal Humour in the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Flagship

A clever play on words, the Slim d’Hermès Flagship features a hand-painted dial depicting the flagship Hermès store in Paris as a sailing ship. Executed with a gold appliqué and miniature painting on an aventurine-glass dial, the “flagship” transforms the famous store at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré into the hull of the ship with sails billowing above it. As is often the case with Hermès’ métiers d’art watches, the dial is based on a scarf bearing the same motif designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko, an artist based in Paris who’s a longtime designer for Hermès. Initial thoughts Both the motif and presentation of the Flagship encapsulate what Hermès does well. It’s typical Hermès – whimsical, elegant, and finely executed. And it’s not just about aesthetics: the depth and detail of the dial decoration is outstanding. Beyond the dial decor, the Flagship also incorporates subtle touches that reflect an attention to detail, like the spinning star disc on the dial and the slightly retro yellow gold case. Slim and witty An aventurine glass base serves as the base for the dial decoration. The store building is a solid gold appliqué that’s hand-engraved with a burin to fill out the fine details of the structure. It’s then painted by hand to add colour to the windows and “Hermes” logo. The rest of the dial, including the sails and starry sky, is done in miniature painting, specifically acrylic paint applied by hand and then baked in an oven to set...

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Bulova chronograph worn Oct 9, 2024

Auction: Space-Flown Watches From a Rolex GMT-Master to Omega Speedmasters

Ahead of the international watch auction season that kicks off in a few weeks, Boston-based RR Auction has opened an online auction that will interest those hunting especially rare, space-flown watches. Simply titled Space, the auction is focused primarily on space memorabilia, and includes three space-flown wristwatches that warrant a closer look, including a French astronaut’s Speedmaster that spent almost six hours in space. Known for its sales focused on historical memorabilia, particularly those relating to space exploration, RR Auction has notched up several notable watch sales in the past, including a Bulova chronograph worn on the Moon that sold for almost US$1.6 million in 2015. We round up highlights from the upcoming sale, which closes October 24, 2024. The catalogue and bidding are available online. Lot 6286 – Rolex GMT-Master II flown on Apollo 14 by Edgar Mitchell  First up is the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 1675 worn by astronaut Edgar Mitchell on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Enhancing its appeal, the watch has tangible provenance: actually be seen in archival footage recording prior to take-off and in onboard footage taken during the mission. While the GMT-Master II was not uncommon among astronauts of that period – it was conceived as a watch for pilots after all – few actually made it to space. This example is only the second lunar Rolex to be sold publicly, after Ron Evans’s GMT-Master II worn on Apollo 17, whic...

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Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase Sporting Oct 8, 2024

Modern Hues for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase

Sporting a moon phase and retro design, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase was originally available only in sedate colours of cream and silver. Now the line grows to include dials in Havana beige, anthracite and green. Unlike the recent Conquest Heritage, the Moonphase is not a vintage reproduction, rather it’s a blend of vintage and modern, with the bonus of a solid 18k gold medallion on the back portraying a caravel on a blue sea of grand feu enamel. Initial thoughts The new trio are essentially cosmetic expansions of the line, so they do not seem novel on paper, but they are a smartly conceived products. The traditional styling is preserved, but with dials in striking colours that are now much more lively. The earlier versions were arguably too plain, with the subdued colours seeming a bit flat. The Flagship Heritage Moonphase is one of Longines’ more expensive models at US$3,050, but nonetheless is decent value considering the top-of-the-line ETA movement and solid-gold, hand-enamelled emblem on the back. Calendar complications Like most models in Longines’ vintage-based Heritage Classic collection, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase is compact by modern standards, but larger than the actual vintage originals. The stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm in thickness. Simple in style, the case has a domed, polished bezel and short, angular lugs with polished chamfers along their edges. Slightly domed to mimic a vintage watch, the dial is finished with a ...

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Ulysse Nardin Introduces Oct 7, 2024

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland” Crystalium

One of the largest watch retailers in the world, Watches of Switzerland (WOS) marks its centenary in 2024. It has worked with several brands on limited editions for the occasion, most recently Ulysse Nardin. Based on Ulysse Nardin’s flagship Freak model, the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland Centenary Exclusive” sports a striking purple dial of crystalium, which is actually crystallised ruthenium. Starting as a single shop in 1924, WOS is now a publicly-listed group with several retail brands in its stable and annual revenue of just over US$2 billion. Its scale means that several brands have signed on to create anniversary editions for the company, including including Cartier, Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. The Freak S, however, is the most complicated of the centenary editions so far. Initial thoughts The most impressive Freak in Ulysse Nardin’s current catalogue, the Freak S scores highly in terms of construction, and innovation. Its double inclined balance wheels are a logical evolution of the original concept. In terms of aesthetics, the WOS edition is the most striking to date. The original iteration with its two-tone, rose gold-and-titanium case was perhaps old-fashioned for such a modern watch. The more recent Freak S Nomad, in contrast, presents a refined, artisanal face with a hand guilloche dial – a contrast of sci-fi watchmaking and traditional decoration. The WOS edition is uniformly sci-fi. The carousel sits on a textured, crystalline purple plate. It’s a...

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H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Oct 7, 2024

H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Seconds

The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...

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Girard-Perregaux Swatch Oct 7, 2024

Auction: Christie’s Auction to Benefit Medical Charity ELA

Christie’s has just announced Watches for ELA, a thematic auction of 11 watches, mostly one-of-a-kind, to benefit the European Leukodystrophy Association (ELA), which supports research into the disorder. The brands that have created watches for the sale include Bovet, Konstantin Chaykin, Girard-Perregaux, Swatch, and most crucially from a value perspective, Richard Mille. While Christie’s is best known for staging Only Watch, a biennial charity auction, the ELA auction is notable for being the brainchild of François-Henri Pinault, the chief executive of French luxury conglomerate Kering, which owns brands like Gucci and Balenciaga. Mr Pinault is on the board of ELA, while Christie’s is owned privately by the Pinault family. Each timepiece in the ELA auction is offered without reserve, with all proceeds going to ELA. The sale takes place on November 11, 2024 as part of Christie’s customary Rare Watches auction. The catalogue and online bidding will be available at end October. Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph Dark Yellow Quartz TPT The flagship offering in the sale, and the only watch with a six figure estimate, the RM 65-01 is one of the most complicated Richard Mille watches, the RM 65-01 is powered by a high-frequency, self-winding rattrapante chronograph movement made by Vaucher. This example is part of a 120-piece limited edition that’s the latest iteration of the RM 65-01. It sports yellow Quartz TPT carbon composite case and is th...

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Breguet Breguet has Oct 6, 2024

Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet

Breguet has a new boss, Gregory Kissling, who started as chief executive at the beginning of October. Born in Neuchâtel – just like Abraham-Louis Breguet himself – Mr Kissling takes over one of the most storied brands in watchmaking. Although Breguet has ceded ground to its haute horlogerie competitors in recent years, the brand remains exceptional in terms of history and significance. Mr Kissling will no doubt seek to restore some of the brand’s glory. Appealing products will be key to that, and Mr Kissling has a strong track record. A micro-mechanical engineer by training, Mr Kissling began his career as a movement constructor at Cartier. He soon joined Omega as product manager in 2004, where he steadily rose through the ranks in product development. Two years ago Mr Kissling was named vice president of product at Omega, making him one of the most senior leaders of the company. Gregory Kissling outside the Breguet manufacture in Le Chenit Mr Kissling’s time in product development has seen Omega unveil watches that were well received by enthusiasts, particularly vintage-inspired Speedmaster models. Amongst the projects he was responsible for was the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321. He also worked on wider projects that spanned Swatch Group, including the development of proprietary precious metal alloys like Sedna and Moonshine gold. As the chief executive of Breguet, Mr Kissling reports to president Marc Hayek, who oversees the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group, na...

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Rolex Deepsea While Oct 4, 2024

In-Depth: A Dive Into the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea

While the history of the Rolex diver’s watch begins with the Oyster Perpetual Submariner of 1953, one of the brand’s landmark achievement in water-resistant cases is more recent: the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea launched in 2008 that incorporates the Ringlock system. With the innovative Ringlock system, Rolex surmounted an enduring obstacle in building a deeper-diving watch – a case that grew in proportion to the depth rating. The Ringlock system is a patented case architecture that fundamentally rethought the traditional approach to a diver’s watch, which allowed the Rolex Deepsea to achieve a water-resistance rating of 3,900 m with a 44 mm case. The utility of the Ringlock was proven in 2022 with the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge that took the Oyster case to the limits of horological engineering. Featuring a 50 mm case in RLX titanium, the Deepsea Challenge is water resistant to 11,000 m – the all-time water-resistance record for a mechanical wristwatch. The latest addition to the deep-diving collection, the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea in 18k yellow gold. Image – Rolex A deep history The history of Rolex is inextricably intertwined with the water-resistant wristwatch. Six years after establishing the brand in 1908, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf wrote to Bienne-based movement maker Aegler, “We must find a way to create a waterproof wristwatch”.  By 1926, Wilsdorf had achieved his goal with the launch of the Oyster, a waterproof wristwatch which ha...

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Omega Revives Oct 3, 2024

Omega Revives the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861

Omega is reissuing the Speedmaster CK2998 with the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” that’s powered by powered by the latest-generation Moonwatch movement, the Co-Axial Master Chronometer cal. 3861. But the “First Omega in Space” (FOIS) is also a keen-eyed remake of the original and sports a detail enthusiasts will appreciate: the stepped dial is a subtle grey-blue dial that replicates the unique colour found on certain vintage Speedmasters made in the 1960s. Initial thoughts Omega issues enough vintage-inspired Speedmaster models that even someone familiar with watches like myself is sometimes confused. For the uninitiated, the FOIS and Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” will look very similar, but for the enthusiasts the distinction is clear. That said, the FOIS is one of the most appealing recent Speedmasters. The attention to detail in design is obvious and impressive. Moreover it’s a vintage remake with a twist: the grey-blue dial is esoteric enough that it looks different, but still a detail that Speedmaster fans will appreciate. The faux-vintage lume is a bit too much, but from a design perspective it works as the parchment lume complements the grey-blue dial. Add to that Omega’s typically high quality and relatively affordable price – this is marginally less expensive than the Moonwatch cal. 3861 with a sapphire crystal – and the new FOIS is both compelling and good value. CK 2998 returns The second Speedmaster model after the CK2915, the CK2998 was ...

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Nomos Tangente Gains Oct 3, 2024

The Nomos Tangente Gains a Double Date

Nomos gently upgrades its classic wristwatch with a new calibre and double-date display: the Tangente 2date retains the signature Tangente design but with the addition of a quickset, twin date display. The same date is indicate twice, on the date disc at six o’clock and then again with a pair of brackets on the date scale located on the dial’s periphery. It’s powered by the DUW 4601, a new calibre that’s based on Nomos’ longstanding Alpha movement. Initial thoughts The Tangente 2date is essentially another iteration of a familiar model, inside and out. Though it still makes appealing, well-priced watches, Nomos hasn’t introduced anything truly novel in some time, and the Tangente 2date reflects that. As the name implies, the only novel element is the double date display that adds detail to the dial, which is fairly stark in its original iteration. At the same time, the date is useful in filling the excess space on the dial that results from the small movement relative to the case. However, the double date is redundant in terms of functionality, and from that perspective, feels gimmicky. The view from the back is appealing, with the extra-wide date module forming a decorative ring around the base movement. The DUW 4601  movement, however, is not exactly novel. Though Nomos describes the calibre as “newly developed”, the DUW 4601 employs the basic architecture of the Alpha, which in turn was a reworked Peseux 7001. In fairness, the DUW 4601 is substantially ...

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