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Audemars Piguet Nov 10, 2023

Editorial: Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced its 2023 winners last night in a ceremony in its traditional venue, the theatre in the Fairmont hotel. Compared to 2022, most of the jury members for the year were new faces, including Anish Bhatt of Watchanish and Ben Clymer of Hodinkee. Presided over by author Nick Foulkes, the jury assembled a list of winners that included several surprises. Some watches rightly triumphed in competitive categories, but in others the prizes felt like they were awarded for lack of alternatives. In nearly all categories, however, the winners had merit, with the only exception being the Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen Automaton that did not win the Mechanical Clock category. The biggest winner of the evening was expected and deserving, going to Audemars Piguet for the Code 11.59 Universelle grand complication. While not the prettiest watch, the Universelle is certainly the most technically impressive watch of the year and deserves the Aiguille d’Or, or “Golden Hand”, the top prize of the event, which was claimed by the brand’s outgoing chief executive, Francois-Henry Bennahmias (pictured above). Not only is the Universelle exceptionally complicated, it approaches several complications in an ingenious manner. Other widely foreseen winners were Petermann Bédat with its 2941 split-seconds in the Chronograph category. Despite my criticism of some aspects of the movement construction, the rattrapante chronograph is undoubte...

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Rolex Nov 8, 2023

Obituary: Jörg Bucherer, the King of European Watch Retail

Jörg G. Bucherer, the third generation to run the Bucherer retail chain, passed away on Monday evening at age 87. The news was first reported by Swiss newspapers including Le Temps. His death comes less than three months after agreeing to sell his family business to Rolex in a multi-billion franc move that shocked the entire industry, but secured the future of the company. He led an extraordinary life, being one of the last remaining people to have worked directly with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and building a reputation as a man about town. Known for his fast cars and beautiful women in his youth, he was always extremely closely guarded when it came to media appearances. Bucherer took over the business in 1977, and had been at the centre of the industry ever since. Having navigated many turbulent periods in matchmaking, he not only kept the Lucerne-based retailer afloat, but steered it to the very top, with the business now counting over 100 points of sale across Europe and America, making it the biggest seller of Rolex watches anywhere. The historic Bucherer store in Lucerne. Image – Bucherer When Bucherer took the reins from his father, the industry was in turmoil in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis. That didn’t stop him as he expanded the company from its Swiss base into new territories such as Austria and Germany in 1980s. He would go on to acquire other retailers as he pursued expansion, including Kurz Group in 1989 and Swiss Lion in 2001. The real b...

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F.P. Journe Nov 7, 2023

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023

Regarded as a bellwether of the market, the Geneva auction season just concluded with the main players – Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum – having staged their sales over four days. Several records were set over the season, including CHF2.1 million for an immaculate Rolex ref. 6062 triple calendar in steel at Phillips, and CHF2.2 million for the George Daniels Millennium also signed by Roger W. Smith, both including fees. Trending one way Despite the record holders, the tone of the season was set by moderating or even weak prices. This was already evident with the most faddish of the “hype” watches last season six months ago. The May auctions saw prices for such watches gap down substantially, reflecting a new reality. Now the same appears to be happening for independent watchmaking – a good thing in my view as it will hopefully shake out the opportunists and no-hopers. The Roger W. Smith Series 2 hammered for CHF400,000 at Phillips (or CHF508,000 with fees), which is below the current retail price for the model and a third below the price of the lower-priced Series 1 that sold in the same venue in May 2023. The Phillips saleroom at La Reserve. Image – Phillips This phenomenon was not unique to Roger W. Smith, with prices gapping down for significant independents like F.P. Journe and Voutilainen. However, these brands remain buoyed by their relative reasonable retail prices, which still remain below recent auction valuations. Even if some exa...

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Tudor Nov 7, 2023

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”

After shading the Aqua Terra Worldtimer line in greys and greens, Omega debuts the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”. A new take on its dive-ready GMT, the watch  is named after the dark grey ceramic case, which harnesses the material’s hardness while staying lightweight thanks to the extensive use of titanium for its internals, including the movement bridges. Initial thoughts Titanium and ceramic are not noteworthy in themselves, but here the materials are combined in an interesting and functional manner. The scratch resistance of ceramic is useful for the case, while the titanium inner components keep the weight down, a helpful characteristic for a big watch. And the materials also create a shades-of-grey appearance that gives the watch a sense of seriousness – with the orange accents bringing some tasteful contrast – though it is less stark compared to its all-black ceramic sibling.  Thought lighter than usual for a watch of its size, the new GMT is a big watch measuring 45.5 mm in diameter, making it quite a bit bigger than comparable watches from Tudor for instance.  It would be more wearable and have a wider appealing if the case was in the range of 41 mm to 42 mm. Despite its material attractions, however, the GMT “Dark Grey” is expensive at US$22,200. It is  almost twice as expensive as the same model in black ceramic (that admittedly doesn’t have a titanium movement). Despite the titanium components, the price is hard to justify since it i...

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Patek Philippe World Time Ref 5110G Nov 3, 2023

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5110G Prototype Dial at Sotheby’s

One of the interesting lots this auction season in Geneva is the Patek Philippe ref. 5110G world time with a prototype dial at Sotheby’s. Scheduled to go under the hammer on November 5, 2023, the watch fitted with a monochromatic printed dial marked “Prototype”. Patek Philippe prototypes, or even prototype dials, rarely emerge in public, so this world time is notable in itself. Another recent example of a prototype was the Aquanaut prototype that sold at Antiquorum in 2019 featuring a “comet” power reserve that was never found on the regular production model. Unlike the Aquanaut prototype, however, this world time only has a prototype dial. The watch itself is a standard ref. 5110G that’s accompanied by the usual guilloche dial as well as an archive extract. According to Sotheby’s, the consignor of the watch is a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe for many years, so he presumably installed the prototype dial on a regular production ref. 5110G. Although simpler than the standard dial, the prototype dial is certainly more interesting. The central portion is a plain, flat white with black print, while the cities disc is off white. The dial is hardly fancy but possesses a clean, functional aesthetic that is strangely appealing. Moreover it runs counter to the prevailing Patek Philippe aesthetic that favours guilloche and applied numerals, making it visually unique. The simplicity of the dial, however, means it might have been a test dial installed in a proto...

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F.P. Journe Opens Le Restaurant Nov 3, 2023

F.P. Journe Opens Le Restaurant in Geneva

In the world of independent watchmaking, François-Paul Journe is perhaps the first amongst equals. But beyond his eponymous brand, Mr Journe has long been something of a gourmand who invested in restaurants in the past. But now his most ambitious culinary project has opened: F.P. Journe Le Restaurant. Located on Geneva’s posh Rue du Rhone, the restaurant is helmed by Dominique Gauthier, formerly the chef at Le Chat-Botté, the Michelin-starred Geneva institution in the lakeside Beau-Rivage hotel. A shared passion Anyone who has been inside an F.P. Journe boutique might have noticed wine bottled especially for F.P. Journe from Chateau Seguin, whose owner is a friend of Mr Journe. Similarly, the new restaurant reflects Mr Journe’s personal relationships and passions. The new restaurant is actually Mr Journe’s third foray into dining, amongst his previous endeavours was a steakhouse. But F.P. Journe Le Restaurant is undoubtedly conceived to be something else entirely. Besides the reputedly CHF1.5 million investment in the location, Mr Journe has recruited one of Geneva’s star chefs. Dominique Gauthier was the head chef at the Le Chat-Botté for some 30 years, clinching a Michelin star along the way. All smiles A historical address This new restaurant is inside a 19th-century building at 49 Rue du Rhône. More notably, the building once housed Bavaria, a renowned German restaurant popular in the early to mid decades of the 20th century. In its prime, the establishment...

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Nov 2, 2023

Breguet Navigates Tradition and Ambition with the Marine Tourbillon 5577

In the realm of haute horlogerie, few names hold the same level of esteem and reverence as Breguet. The newly unveiled Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 is no doubt intended as a tribute to the brand’s visionary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, by drawing inspiration from his deep ties to maritime navigation, astronomy, and the spirit of innovation.  Initial thoughts By introducing a tourbillon for the first time in the Marine collection, Breguet aims to leverage the prestige of the complication to enhance its sport watch offering. Like many other Breguet complications, the Marine tourbillon possesses a high level of quality, particularly in the sophisticated and impressively constructed movement that’s just 3 mm high, making its one of the thinnest tourbillon calibres on the market. The thinness gives the watch elegant proportions, despite the relatively wide case that’s 42.5 mm, as it stands well under 10 mm high. Besides its height, the cal. 581 is notable for having a decoration unique to this watch. The Geneva stripes are modified to feature engraved channels separating the stripes, creating the impression of a sailboat’s decking. However, the devoted Breguet purist might see the addition of a tourbillon to the Marine as a departure from tradition, likely driven by the ambition to compete with comparable sports watches like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.  Abraham-Louis Breguet never incorporated a tourbillon into a marine chronom...

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Rolex Ref 6062 Arguably Nov 1, 2023

Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062

Arguably the most storied Rolex model in history, more so than the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the ref. 6062 triple calendar is beautiful, and unusually for Rolex, complicated. At the same time, the ref. 6062 boasts the trademark water-resistant Oyster case, something that its closest cousin, the ref. 8171 “Padellone” triple calendar, lacks. Soon to go under the hammer at Phillips in Geneva is a particularly impressive example of the ref. 6062. While there have been more storied examples of the ref. 6062 sold in recent years – including the “Bao Dai” owned by the last emperor of Vietnam – the upcoming ref. 6062 is possibly the best preserved. It is a steel example, and while a steel ref. 6062 is rare, the condition of this watch truly sets it apart. The case appears original in shape and detail, though it shows wear; modest wear considering the seven decades since the watch was made. Phillips describes the case as “unpolished” and while that cannot be ascertained with absolutely certainty, the claim is certainly a credible one. The Oyster case has its full shape, defined edges, and even the tiny step at the very top of the bezel where it meets the crystal. More so than any of the other external components, the case back of this model typically shows the most obvious wear as the engravings are shallow. But here the original engravings look almost like they did fresh out of the factory, right down to the rectangular blocks separating the two lines of text. Int...

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Breitling Refines Nov 1, 2023

Breitling Refines the Avenger Collection

Breitling has redesigned the Avenger collection of big and bold pilot’s watches. First introduced in 2001 – the original is perhaps best known for being worn by Leonardo DiCaprio in Blood Diamond – the Avenger is now (very) slightly scaled down, kitted out with cleaner dials and better case detailing, and an in-house movement for the chronograph. Made up of the B01 Chronograph 44, GMT 44 and Automatic 42, the new Avenger collection still retains its signature size and style – the watches remain oversized, rugged, and functional, with chunky rotating bezels and 300 m of water resistance. Initial thoughts  Breitling is known for is oversized pilot’s watches and the Avenger is exactly that. More substantial and modern than the old-school Navitimer, the Avenger is an unapologetically big, bold “tool” watch. The facelift has streamlined the design slightly, giving it a cleaner and more contemporary look, while retaining the key elements of the Avenger, including the all-matte brushed case and rotating bezel with rider tab. While there are technically three models in the family, the key one has always been the chronograph, and that is emphasised here with the Avenger chronograph with in-house Calibre B01. This is now the only chronograph in the line-up, while previously the collection included both ETA-powered and in-house versions. The Breitling B01 features a vertical clutch and column wheel Although the chronograph is the priciest in the collection, it is defi...

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Breguet Livens Up Oct 31, 2023

Breguet Livens Up the Ladies’ Classique Tourbillon 3358

Having recently redesigned its flagship perpetual calendar and minute repeater, Breguet now turns to its compact tourbillon for ladies. Moving away from Breguet’s traditional, formal style, the Classique Tourbillon 3358 is available in two variants, including the ref. 3358BB with a blue mother-of-pearl dial with diamond stars. Initial thoughts By doing away with the usual silvered guilloche dial, the new pair of tourbillons bring a new look to a familiar watch. Although the two watches are quite different from past Breguet tourbillons, they are still recognisable as Breguet thanks to elements like the pomme hands and fluted case band. The white gold ref. 3358BB is definitely the more striking of the two. The blue mother of pearl dial set with diamond stars is usually whimsical for Breguet, but nonetheless works well with the more traditional design elements. The ref. 3358 with a blue mother-of-pearl dial The Classique Tourbillon 3358 is a woman’s watch, but the design elements employed here could be transplanted into a men’s tourbillon wristwatch quite successfully, though it is not like Breguet to do something like that.  Though pricier than past ladies’ tourbillons, the ref. 3358 is arguably more interesting and attractive, particularly for someone who wants something much less formal and traditional. The ref. 3358 with a diamond-set dial Stars and diamonds Already in the catalogue for several years, the ref. 3358 in its earlier incarnations looked more like ...

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Oct 30, 2023

Hands On: Philippe Dufour Simplicity Prototype No. 000 in Pink Gold

With “indies” all the rage now, auction catalogues usually have a generous helping of independent watchmaking. Amongst the many offerings from the genre this season, a handful stand out, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity prototype no. 000 in Phillips’ Geneva watch auction that takes place on November 3 and 4, 2023. This is one of three prototype watches Mr Dufour made for the 2000 Basel fair when the Simplicity made its debut. Two of them were in white gold with a silvered guilloche dial – Mr Dufour himself frequently wears one of them – and the last was this watch, which is pink gold with a white lacquered dial. Initial thoughts Today Philippe Dufour has grown beyond the personality and is essentially a brand, an evolution that arguably took place after the 20th anniversary Simplicity was launched 2020. In contrast, this Simplicity prototype, along with the first 200 examples Mr Dufour made, encapsulates the artisanal beginnings of the man and his brand. At the time of the Simplicity’s launch, and for more than a decade after, Mr Dufour found neither fame nor fortune, given that he only made a handful of Simplicity watches each year and sold each for about US$40,000. The early watches are perhaps purer creations that capture the essence of Mr Dufour’s vision, which was to pay tribute to the heyday of Vallee de Joux watchmaking. Mr Dufour, of course, managed to do it slightly better, explaining why his creations are often regarded as having the best m...

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H. Moser & Cie Oct 30, 2023

Aventurine Complications by Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie.

The collaboration between Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie. has given birth to a trio of timepieces: the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine and two different takes on the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aventurine. Bucherer, a renowned Swiss retailer with a global presence that was recently acquired by Rolex, has made blue dials a signature feature of its collaborations. While most Bucherer exclusives sport blue-finish metal dials, this trio have dials of aventurine glass, otherwise known as goldstone. It’s essentially glass with metallic inclusions that give it a speckled, sparkly appearance that evokes the night sky. Initial thoughts The combination of red gold and deep blue dials neatly aligns with both Bucherer’s and Moser’s respective aesthetics. This collaboration continues the retailer’s tradition of unique, blue-themed exclusives that are a variants of familiar models.  It is worth noting the three timepieces are derived from models in Moser’s existing product range, including the aventurine dials. Furthermore, the movements, namely the HMC 904 with repeater and the HMC 804 tourbillon, remain unchanged. While this reflects the collaborative effort between Bucherer and Moser, it raises the question of whether even greater imaginative potential could have been explored by both entities.  That said, the aventurine dials are appealing, though they come at a price. For instance, the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine costs US$71,500, compared t...

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Panerai Leans Traditional Oct 27, 2023

Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385

Pared back in style, this vintage-inspired limited edition from Panerai takes a simple approach in revisiting a historical design. With a faux-aged dial colour and conical crown, the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 celebrates the anniversary of the original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Priced well at just over US$5,000, it’s a limited edition with just 300 examples being made.  Initial thoughts  The execution of this is clean and will please those who appreciate historical Panerai design. There is nothing added on that doesn’t need to be there, and there are small details which play to those who know their Panerai history. It’s not an exact remake of a vintage model, but has a functional aesthetic that sticks to the spirit of the originals. As an aside, while I’ve never been a fan of mock ageing, the “tropical” dial is an even colour that doesn’t have a fake gradient to it, and so it can arguably be seen as a simple colour choice, rather than recreating faded pigment.  Another notable detail is the 45 mm case. Oversized by most standards, it’s actually more compact than the average historical Radiomir as well as modern-day remakes, which were usually 47 mm. This makes it more wearable, while still looking big enough to retain the Panerai feel. Given the historical background of this design, and the appealing, no-frills design, the price of US$5,400 is good value, particularly when compared against Panerai models like the Radiomir California. With just 300 piec...

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Blancpain were traditional displays Oct 26, 2023

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Chinese Calendar

Having already one of the smartest perpetual calendars on the market, H. Moser & Cie. adds another calendar to its repertoire with the Endeavour Chinese Calendar. Sporting a double retrograde display, the new watch displays the traditional Chinese calendar, a lunisolar calendar that operates on the motions of the Sun and Moon, along with the Chinese zodiac. Unlike past watches with a Chinese calendar, the new Endeavour has a clean, modern aesthetic. Initial thoughts The Endeavour Chinese Calendar isn’t the first wristwatch to incorporate a traditional Chinese calendar, though it has the most concise display and is probably the easiest to understand. Past watches with Chinese calendars from the likes of Blancpain were traditional displays of the traditional Chinese calendar with as many Chinese characters as possible, resulting in busy dials. Moser, on the other hand, opted for minimalism with retrograde scales and Arabic numerals for the calendars. The only downside of the calendar display is its size; the tiny numerals mean a magnifier is probably necessary. In short, the Endeavour Chinese Calendar is a smart take on the traditional Chinese calendar, but one that could do with larger numerals. A lunisolar calendar Now mostly used for ceremonial purposes like public holidays and determine auspicious dates, the traditional Chinese calendar is a lunisolar calendar that depends on the Moon and Sun. A month for instance is the time between two new moons, with either 29 or 3...

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A. Lange & Sohne Oct 25, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold

Well before A. Lange & Söhne debuted the entirely classical Richard Lange Minute Repeater a year ago, the brand’s flagship striking watch was a Zeitwerk. Available in white gold or platinum before, the digital chiming watch now returns in a warmer metal as the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold. While remaining the same mechanically, the new repeater strikes a different tone according to the brand because of the case metal, a gold alloy slightly harder than conventional gold that is exclusive to Lange. Initial thoughts The new Zeitwerk repeater is more appealing than its predecessors in my eyes just because I like the gold-and-grey combination. The platinum model was monochromatic while the blue dial on the white gold model felt too modern for the watch. The movement remains exactly the same as before, which means it’s the same impressively complicated calibre that has the usual Zeitwerk features like a constant force mechanism, as well as the added complexity of an unusually constructed minute repeater with various safety mechanisms catered to the digital display. But one aspect of the new repeater is interesting, and that’s the case metal. I’ve yet to hear the watch in person, but Lange’s product development head, Anthony de Haas, is quoted as saying the new repeater “in honey gold… sounds different to all other materials ‒ truly distinctive.” Given the significant increase in hardness of honey gold relative to ordinary 18k gold, that sounds credible. ...

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Greubel Forsey Unveils Oct 25, 2023

Greubel Forsey Unveils the Gimballed Tourbillon Cardan

Having teased the launch of its eighth “fundamental invention” earlier this summer, Greubel Forsey has unveiled the Tourbillon Cardan featuring a 16-second inclined tourbillon suspended by a set of cardans, otherwise known as universal joints or gimbals. And for the nerds: the tourbillon is suspended in a mechanised gimbal that makes a fixed oscillation driven by the tourbillon, rather than a free-swivelling gimbal with differential gearing. Initial thoughts Despite a recent focus on sport watches, the Tourbillon Cardan is a reminder that no one does oversized, over-engineered watches quite like Greubel Forsey. The Tourbillon Cardan feels like a bridge between the past and future of the brand, suggesting the Tourbillon Cardan has been in development for several years. The dynamic and visually compelling nature of the tourbillon, the large sizing, and the traditional form of the case recall the Greubel Forsey of years past, while the minimalist aesthetic and the choice of titanium for the case material are clear hallmarks of the brand’s future trajectory. Impressive as it is, the swivelling tourbillon is not entirely a new idea. Zenith once had a double-axis gimballed escapement in its catalogue that was more complex than the Tourbillon Cardan but suffered from so-so reliability due to that very complexity. Greubel Forsey has approached the gimbals in a more concise manner, with the gimbals oscillating in a fixed motion that is being by the rotation of the tourbillon...

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TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm Oct 24, 2023

TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm with the Carrera “Glassbox” in Yellow Gold

The Carrera line takes a luxurious turn with a new chronograph sporting a yellow gold case and matching yellow gold-plated dial, complemented by contrasting matte black sub-dials. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” pays homage to a similar creation from the 1960s, the Carrera ref. 1158 CHN, which is known among collectors for its bold, all-gold design. Initial thoughts A precious metal sports watch often sparks debate about the relevance of the case material, particularly for brands not typically associated with pure luxury. However, TAG Heuer’s decision to execute its new Glassbox in the memorable “John Player Special” colour scheme of gold and black inspired by the ref. 1158 CHN is commendable. Moreover, it is a logical next step for TAG Heuer following the recent unveiling of the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, which is also available in rose gold.  This fusion of heritage and refinement brings a unique and distinguished touch to the ordinarily functional Carrera. The result is an appealing chronograph with a hint of vintage luxury that effectively showcases the distinctive Glassbox case.  The price tag for the gold Carrera is comparable to that of the rose gold Chronosprint x Porsche, which means the price is expected and appropriate though not quite a bargain. However, the Chronosprint boasts a more complex movement, making it a better value proposition – though the new Carrera is certainly more appealing in terms of design. The legendary gold Carrera 11...

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Audemars Piguet withdrew from Oct 23, 2023

Business News: Only Watch Postponed to 2024

Today, the Association Monègasque les Myopathies (AMM) has decided to postpone what would have been the 10th instalment of Only Watch to 2024. Following questions on social media over the past couple of weeks, the foundation behind the charity auction has just released a statement outlining plans to push the event to next year, to allow it to take place in “in harmony with the community”. This news is coming despite a strong and public statement of support by François-Paul Journe declaring his “total confidence”, but also shortly after Audemars Piguet withdrew from the auction without any public statement as to why. The statement of support from François-Paul Journe The postponement is a regrettable move given the value of the initiative for medical research, but clearly one that founder Luc Pettavino and his team feel is necessary with just under two weeks until the auction was due to take place. Hopefully this delay will give its organisers time to quell the doubters on social media in recent days. With no set date yet announced, it is clear that this is a still a fluid situation and so we may see this auction take place early in the year, rather than during the fall as is tradition. However, it seems that those behind Only Watch take the concerns of the community seriously enough to ensure there is enough time to answer them all. We will be keeping you up to date as this story develops and more announcements are made. For the full statement from Only Watch, v...

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Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Oct 23, 2023

Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40

British watch brand Fears has revealed new dial colours for one of its primary offerings, the Brunswick 40. The new variants are the Aurora with a mother-of-pearl dial, and the Copper Salmon with its eponymous metallic finish. But the two are not just cosmetic updates as the model has also undergone some improvements, including a larger 40 mm case and a novel typeface employed for the numerals. Initial thoughts Since the re-establishment of the Fears brand six years ago, I have always held an appreciation for the vintage-inspired design of the Brunswick in particular, with its cushion-shaped case and the subtle dial detailing. The highlight among the new additions would be the Aurora, which stands out from the rest of the Fears catalogue. Its mother-of-pearl dial that is comprised of two parts and finished by hand, giving each dial a unique look. The Aurora Having said that, the large case size of 40 mm does leave the new Brunswick somewhat substantial especially given its shape, bringing to mind to the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta. And with a case height of about 11 mm – not thick but not thin either – the case will sit fairly tall on the wrist. The pricing of the new Brunswick depends on the dial: the Copper Salmon is priced at £3,550 with a strap, while the Aurora is available for £3,850, with either being approximately £200 more with the bracelet. These prices are consistent with the existing models in the current collection. Considering the intrinsic features of ...

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F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum Oct 23, 2023

Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum

The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...

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Oct 20, 2023

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt”

Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...

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IWC Scales Down Oct 19, 2023

IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert

After recently introducing a pilot’s watch with a fully-luminous dial and the Big Pilot perpetual in white ceramic, IWC continues to grow its aviation-inspired offerings with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. First introduced as a limited edition in 2019, the sand-coloured ceramic chronograph is now regular production and in a more wearable size of 41 mm. Initial thoughts One of the standouts in the Top Gun collection has been the Mojave Desert with its beige tones – definitely an unusual colour for a oversized sports watch. However, the colour was only applied to larger models to date. The reintroduction of the Mojave Desert in a more compact size, and standard production to boot, is a good thing – though probably not such a good thing for owners of the limited edition version. The smaller case helps with wearability, making this desirable colour combination available to a wider audience. Size aside, there is no major point of difference. The same can be said for price: the new Mojave Desert chronograph retails for US$11,700, mirroring the price tag of the other ceramic chronographs in the collection. A new size, but same style The Mojave Desert chronograph is the latest addition to the “Colours of Top Gun” collection that draws inspiration from the US Navy’s flight school. The colour choice for this model is influenced by the Mojave Desert that surrounds the US Navy’s TOPGUN fighter pilot academy, and its pilots’ distinctive flight...

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Behrens Boldr Oct 18, 2023

Microbrand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore

Following on from its inaugural event last October, Spring Sprang Sprung (SPRG) is set to return to XM Studios in Singapore from October 20-22. With a growing roster of microbrands exhibiting, the exhibitors will also be joined by Oris. Founded by Yong Keong Lim, owner of Feynman Timekeepers, and Sugiharto Kusumadi, founder of Red Army Watches, the concept behind SPRG is a community-minded watch fair that is casual, welcoming and inclusive. With a number of talks and practical workshops planned over the three days to accompany the 36 exhibiting brands, there will be plenty to do.  With a focus on local and regional microbrands, leather-goods makers, and watch storage specialists, the exhibitors include Behrens, Boldr, and Yi Leather. A number of brands will also be using the fair as a platform to launch new products. Hoping to make the fair open to as many people as possible, entry is free with tickets available through an online registration. SPRG will be open from October 20-22, 11 am-6 pm daily, apart from the last day when it closes at 5 pm.  XM Studios Kitchener Complex, Level 3 809 French Road Singapore 200809 To register for a free ticket, click here. 

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A. Lange & Sohne Oct 17, 2023

Review: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone in Platinum

After its initial introduction 18 years ago, the Lange 1 Time Zone with a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial has made a comeback with a second-generation model. The revival features the cal. L141.1, which adds a daylight-saving time function to the second time zone. Already one of the most complex world time watches at the time of its launch, the second-generation Lange 1 Time Zone still stands out as one of the most advanced travel watches available today. Initial thoughts This combination of a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial takes us nearly two decades back in time, as the original model was available in this same livery. It’s heartening to witness this classic pairing return, but now powered by the upgraded cal. L141.1.  Most striking is the timeless appeal of this watch. Examining it, I can’t help but think that the design has not aged, a testament to the enduring style of A. Lange & Söhne that is both formal and functional. Its longevity and continued relevance over the years are remarkable. To complement this, it’s worth noting the consistently surprising comfort provided by the relatively large case, which sits effortlessly on the wrist. Unlike typical sporty tool watches, it maintains a classical look and size that complements elegant attire, such as, of course, an airline captain’s suit. However, it’s essential to acknowledge that the readability of its dial under certain light conditions remains a significant challenge. Despite this sligh...

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Girard-Perregaux Unveils Oct 14, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement

Still one of the most notable escapements on the market despite being a decade old, Girard-Perregaux’s double-wheel-and-silicon invention has been refined and revived as the Neo Constant Escapement. Presented in titanium, the Neo Constant Escapement is the regular production version of the unique piece in pink gold made for Only Watch 2023. The calibre within is a revamped version of the 2013 original that retains the double escape wheels and integral constant-force silicon spring, but reworked for superior function. Initial thoughts Technically impressive as it was, the original Constant Escapement (CE) from 2013 was huge (the case was 48 mm, making size one of its biggest weakness) and expensive at the time. That explains in part why the CE never caught on despite its merits. The revamp of the watch ten years old has substantially improved both its function and form. The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is both more wearable and more appealing in terms of design. Besides being more compact, the “Neo” case also has a highly domed crystal that shows off the escapement well. Even though the watch has been redesigned, the NCE retains the hyper-modern, open-worked styling of the original. The look certainly suits the inventive nature of the silicon escapement, though it would have been interesting if GP experimented with a classical design, which might have been ironic but attractive for the contrasting ideas. Equally important is the fact that the retail price remains ab...

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Hermes Oct 13, 2023

Equine Artisanal Craft with the Hermès Masan Masan Pocket Watch

Hermès’ pocket watches consistently demonstrate the brand’s limitless creativity across a spectrum of artisanal crafts. Bringing forth a delightful blend of surprise and anticipation, the Slim d’Hermès Masan Masan Pocket Watch is decorated with horsehair marquetry, a weave technique that forms a finely textured motif. The one-off creation stands as a remarkable achievement, underscoring Hermès’ exceptional talent transforming the distinctive designs drawn from its scarves into works of art for the wrist or pocket. Initial thoughts Hermès’ creativity appears boundless, characterised by an impeccable sense of understated aesthetics that sets it apart from the more extravagant approaches taken by many other manufacturers. Even when Hermès endeavours to go over the top, the outcome remains remarkably restrained, aligning seamlessly with the company’s approach to other product lines. Its collection of exceptional watches always demands a second look to truly appreciate the craftsmanship required to achieve these results, as they often showcase techniques and skills seldom employed by more renowned watchmakers. This is evident in the unique Masan Masan pocket watch, where the artistic craft of marquetry, typically executed with small pieces of various kinds of wood, takes an unexpected turn with the use of woven horsehair, resulting in a beautiful outcome. Applied to the dial of this white gold timepiece, this technique creates a brownish oblique texture, agains...

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Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph Now Oct 12, 2023

The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph, Now in Lightweight Titanium

After the release of the scaled-down version of the Spirit Zulu Time, Longines has unveiled a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback Chronograph. This variation features a titanium case and bracelet, and an anthracite dial only for now, while preserving the design of the existing steel models. Initial thoughts Longines should be acknowledged for its success in creating vintage-style watches, as evident in its aviation-inspired Spirit collection, notably the Flyback Chronograph. The introduction of this chronograph in titanium shows a continuation of this successful run, despite its large case size.  As for this timepiece, it maintains the design features and case dimensions of the steel Spirit Flyback. However, it’s worth noting that it is currently only offered with an anthracite dial. It would have been preferable for the new case material to be accompanied by a new dial colour to truly make this release stand out. The titanium Spirit Flyback is offered with two strap options: one with a NATO strap priced at US$4,850 and another with a bracelet priced at US$5,200. Despite a modest price increase compared to the steel models, it continues to deliver exceptional value for its quality.  The Flyback in titanium Much like its steel counterparts, the titanium Spirit Flyback Chronograph exudes a distinct vintage-inspired design. Presently, it is only offered with a sun ray brushed anthracite dial as compared to the steel models available in either black or blue dials. The stee...

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Grand Seiko models Oct 11, 2023

Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411

Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411. This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case. Initial thoughts The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design. It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable. Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less...

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Vacheron Constantin Laurent Ferrier Oct 10, 2023

Visiting the F.P. Journe Manufacture

I recently had the opportunity to see how the philosophy of “in-house” plays out in real life with a behind-the-scenes tour of the F.P. Journe manufacture in Geneva, and its newly opened case and dial factory in Meyrin, Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG) and Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG). The tour was impressive in its thoroughness and transparency. Montres Journe, the entity that makes F.P. Journe watches, comprises three entities at two sites in the Geneva metro area. The first is the F.P. Journe manufacture in downtown Geneva – incidentally not far from the Patek Philippe Museum – where all F.P. Journe movements are designed and manufactured, and where all watches are finished, assembled, and tested. The reception room at the Geneva manufacture. When F.P. Journe launched in 1999, this room was the entire production space for the brand, which subsequently acquired the rest of the building. The original production space is now a reception area and home to a portion of the Jean-Claude Sabrier library, acquired in 2015. The other two entities are Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG) and Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG) – which translate literally as “The Dial Makers of Geneva” and “The Case Makers of Geneva”. The two recently moved into a new building where CDG makes dials for F.P. Journe as well as third-party clients like Vacheron Constantin, Laurent Ferrier, and numerous other elite brands, while in contrast BDG makes cases and bracelets exclusively for F.P. Jou...

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Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Oct 10, 2023

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...

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