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Richard Mille RM UP-01 Now Piaget Apr 9, 2024

In-Depth: Piaget Debuts Thinnest Tourbillon Watch Ever

Piaget does the unexpected to mark its 150th anniversary. Instead of a special edition of an existing timepiece, Piaget has profoundly reworked the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) – endowing it with a flying tourbillon. The thinnest tourbillon ever by some margin, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary measures 41.5 mm in diameter and stands just 2 mm high, crystal included. In other words, Piaget installed a tourbillon in the AUC while maintaining the same overall height. Initial thoughts The original AUC of 2018 was an impressive example of micro engineering. The innovative movement construction resulted in a case thickness of just 2 mm, while still managing to look like a conventional watch, as opposed to the panel-like appearance of the even thinner Richard Mille RM UP-01. Now Piaget has built upon the concept by adding a tourbillon to the slim construction. A tourbillon is not a practical addition, since chronometry was never the main point of the AUC. Instead, this is an exercise in pushing the limits of micro engineering. Piaget’s engineer surmounted the challenge and the result is nothing short of amazing. It’s crucial to note that adding a tourbillon to the AUC is not merely adding a tourbillon. Practically the entire calibre was reworked – according to Piaget one 90% of the parts are new – right down to reducing the number of spokes in the wheels to minimise energy consumption. Beyond its mechanics, the AUC Tourbillon also...

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IWC Portugieser Collection Apr 9, 2024

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection

For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...

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F.P. Journe Remembers Apr 8, 2024

F.P. Journe Remembers a Friend with Élégante Gino’s Dream

A longtime friend of François-Paul Journe, Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021) was also one of the watchmaker’s earliest supporters, having been a shareholder in the company since almost the beginning. To remember his departed friend, Mr Journe created the Élégante Gino’s Dream, a “rainbow” version of his clever quartz sports watch. A reference to Cukrowicz’s colourful personality, Gino’s Dream is the larger, 48 mm Élégante model with a bezel set with 52 baguette-cut synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic. Apart from commemorating Cukrowicz, Gino’s Dream also serves as the 10th anniversary special edition of the Élégante. François-Paul Journe and Gino Cukrowicz in 2003 at the opening of the brand’s Tokyo boutique Initial thoughts A personality with a capital “P”, Cukrowicz was almost inseparable from Mr Journe. The rainbow Élégante is a perfect tribute that captures the man. Beyond the personal significance of the watch, Gino’s Dream is also a perfect addition to the line. Both fun and interesting without being too expensive – availability is another matter – Gino’s Dream continues with the colourful, casual, and affordable focus of the Élégante collection. Rainbow memories Gino’s Dream is a variant of the Élégante with 52 baguette-cut rainbow stones on the bezel. Instead of natural gemstones, the stones are glass-ceramic, a clear, polycrystalline material that can be used to simulate natural gemstones. As a result, Gino’s Dream is more a...

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Audemars Piguet Apr 5, 2024

Breaking News: Only Watch Will Return in May 2024

After having postponed itself in the wake of questions about its propriety and transparency, Only Watch has just announced its return, with the 10th instalment of the charity auction taking place on May 10, 2024. This happens after the organisation published its audited financial statements covering the last three years as well as revamping its governance. Majority of brands that were slated to take part in last year’s event are returning for the 2024 auction – 48 out of the 62 watches have remained – with the most notable departures being Audemars Piguet and Tudor. Crucially, the most significant brands will return for this year’s Only Watch, namely those who will contribute watches with six- or seven-figure values. The most important is naturally Patek Philippe, which is believe to have an all-new wristwatch in the works, and not the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P made for last year’s event. The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019, making the most valuable wristwatch ever sold at auction In addition, F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, Richard Mille, as well as all LVMH brands, including Louis Vuitton, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Bulgari, and Zenith, are also participating. This means that the brands that matter in terms of value are still there. For example, just Patek Philippe and F.P. Journe alone should raise a healthy eight figure sum – with Patek Philippe accounting for at least US$15-25 million, or about two-third...

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Konstantin Chaykin Apr 5, 2024

Anton Suhanov Unveils the Chronotope and the Inventive Su200.10

One of the leading names in contemporary Russian independent watchmaking alongside Konstantin Chaykin is Anton Suhanov, an ACHI candidate mostly known for his triple-axis table tourbillon clocks. He now applies his inventive mind to the calendar wristwatch to create the Chronotope, a timepiece with simple functions executed in a clever and sophisticated manner. Initial thoughts Russian watchmaking is more obscure compared to Swiss or German, but the country has a rich history of watch and jewellery artisans, most famously Faberge. Modern Russian haute horologerie harks back to that history, with Konstantin Chaykin and more recently Anton Suhanov being prime movers. The Chronotope is a day-date watch with an unusual dial design. A day-date complication is not difficult generally regarded as uninteresting because of its basic nature, but the unexpectedly original execution of the Chronotope makes it appealing. Displayed on a wide arc almost 360 degrees wide, the day of the week is indicated with a retrograde hand labelled “today”, which flies back to Monday at the end of the week. It is controlled by an exposed snail cam at six that forms an integral part of the aesthetic. The dial looks modern and almost industrial, with an interesting combination of muted greys with spots of colour, primarily in the form of ruby components – a clever way of utilising functional rubies as decorative elements. The industrial feel is underlined by the simple, but smartly detailed case. ...

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Richard Mille Planetarium-Tellurium Apr 4, 2024

SpaceOne Introduces an Affordable Tellurium

Founded last year by a pair of Frenchmen, entrepreneur Guillaume Laidet and independent watchmaker Theo Auffret, SpaceOne fashions itself as a maker of modular complications assembled in Paris that are make accessible thanks to Swiss movements and external components sourced elsewhere. Its second creation, the Tellurium, is an affordable – but heavily simplified – heliocentric tellurium watch priced at just €2,999, or about US$3,250. Initial thoughts A tellurium is a kind of orrery, a mechanical model of the solar system, which shows the planets’ positions relative to the Sun. Traditional orrery are kinetic sculptures driven by complex gearings and usually large format, desk clock size or larger. The Richard Mille Planetarium-Tellurium of 2007, for instance, was the size of a small table. There have been wristwatch-size versions of orrery, most famously Ulysse Nardin’s pair of the Tellurium Johannes Kepler and Planetarium Copernicus, which were faithful miniaturisation of orreries and conceived with scientific accuracy in mind but were priced accordingly. The SpaceOne Tellurium is a heavily diluted of the same. It shows only the Sun, Earth and Moon, each with minimal motion. The Earth, for instance, does not rotate on its own axis. Rather than being a miniaturised true orrery, this is an heavily simplified representation presented with sci-fi style. This simplified approach brings with it the inconvenience of a non quickset calendar. So setting the calendar from...

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Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Returns Apr 4, 2024

The Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Returns

In production for decades and one of Seiko’s most affordable mechanical watches, the SNX series has been updated and refined to create the Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series. According to Seiko, the SNXS was inspired by “EDC”, short for “everyday carry”, a catchall phrase for useful items that can be carried on your person. Consequently, the SNXS is concise, practical, and very accessible. Available in three distinct dial variants, black, blue, and ivory, the SNXS  features a clean dial made more interesting with an orange seconds hand, patina lume, and a contrast-colour flange. The case is an evolution of the historical SNX design and matched with a steel bracelet. And like most Seiko 5 models, the SNXS has an automatic movement with a day-date function. Initial Thoughts It is safe to say that Seiko has a dominant position in the sub-US$500 segment, with the Seiko 5 leading the way. They are robust and reliable, so much so Seiko is something of the gateway drug to the world mechanical watches. Although simple in execution, the fit and finish of Seiko 5 in general is impressive for the price point. The Seiko 5 is available in a myriad of flavours, from the Seiko 5 Sports Bruce Lee Edition to the Seiko 5 Sports Street Fighter V. The SNXS Series, however, adopts a different spirit with its low key and vintage-inspired aesthetic. The design is simple but detailed nicely with contrast finishing on the case surfaces. It does without a sport bezel, though the baton hands and ...

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MB&F; Apr 3, 2024

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Styles the MB&F; M.A.D. 1

The first limited edition from MB&F;’s affordable sub-brand is the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love”, created in collaboration with French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, also known as JC/DC. A variant of the standard model endowed with Mr de Castelbajac’s touch – including numerals in his handwriting – the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” is a 999-piece edition that will be sold via an online raffle. A designer whose heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him collaborate with brands like from Swatch and design a coat made of teddy bears for Madonna, Mr de Castelbajac was most recently artistic director for Benetton. The M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” reflects his trademark colourful and whimsical style. Initial thoughts Conceptually and aesthetically, the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” makes sense. Mr de Castelbajac’s style complements M.A.D. Editions’s affordable, fun brand of watchmaking, making this the most interesting M.A.D.1 edition to date. The fact that it’s a relatively small run of 999 pieces and priced almost the same as the regular version enhances the appeal. More broadly, the collaboration also chimes with parent brand MB&F;’s retro-nostalgia philosophy, where many of its creations are inspired by founder Maximilian Büsser’s youth. According to the brand, “the young Maximilian Büsser was a huge fan, saving up his pocket money for one of the designer’s bathing suits featuring pandas on it”, when Mr de Castelbajac’s brand was at its peak in the ...

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Apr 3, 2024

S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver

A bestselling franchise launched two years ago, S.U.F. Helsinki’s latest Moomin edition is the Moomin Diver. Based on the brand’s Vetehinen diver, the Moomin diver features an illustration from Moomin and the Comet that depicts the titular character diving. As with past Moomin editions, the diver features a laser-engraved and hand finished dial with lots of Super-Luminova. Initial thoughts The Moomin watches by S.U.F., the affordable sub-brand of Sarpaneva, are fun value propositions that offer a good quality of dial and case work for the price. This is typical of S.U.F. as well as Sarpaneva in their respective price segments. Priced similarly to the very first model at €5,550, the latest edition continues that while introducing a new dial motif. This is a timely change since the original dial design had already been repeated several times, including on the pricier, full-fledged Sarpaneva version. While the latest edition doesn’t have the same level of detail on the dial – it’s mostly engraved as opposed to being substantially open worked – it brings a new look with the dive watch aesthetic. Though the Moomin editions have been repeated several times, perhaps too often, this is an appealing new launch considering the price-performance ratio and relatively small edition size of 52 watches across two dial types. Diving-themed diver’s watch The new diver features a steel dial that reproduces a drawing from Moomin and the Comet, one of the many Moomin books pen...

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Rolex Deepsea Challenge Apr 2, 2024

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack

As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...

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Rolex watches often Apr 2, 2024

Bamford Drops B80 Collaboration with Ace Jewelers

London-based Bamford Watch Department’s latest is the B80 Limited Edition, a collaboration with Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam. In keeping with Bamford’s vintage-with-a-twist house style, the B80 boasts a “ghost” dial with a gradient finish and numerals inspired by historical military watches. The 39 mm titanium case has a black finished that’s been treated to appear aged. Initial Thoughts There is something about all-black watches that makes them cool. Part of it is the no-nonsense, military-instrument look they evoke. Black-coated watches, at least most of them, suffer from a major drawback - coatings wear off in time, resulting in a worn look that is more often than not unappealing. But here the wear has been done in advance for a fuss-free watch. According to the duo behind the B80, this is a “tool” watch conceived according to the notion “if [the watch is] too perfect, fix it”. Bamford, a company that got its start by modifying Rolex watches, often with vintage inspired styling and black-coated cases, is perhaps poking fun at its roots with the worn-out PVD finish of the B80. Even the dial features a “smoked” patina along with hands and indices with aged lume, thereby creating a “vintage” watch. But as with most Bamford watches – the brand now mostly makes original watches under its own name – the B80 is affordable and imbued with a spirit of fun. The back, for instance, is engraved with “You’re Ace”, and the watch is delivered with a...

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Breitling Navitimer Evolves into Apr 1, 2024

The Breitling Navitimer Evolves into a No-Frills GMT

To celebrate its 140th anniversary, Breitling is launching the Navitimer Automatic GMT 41. Zooming into the watch, the signature slide-rule bezel is still present, although this Navitimer omits the chronograph and replaces it with a GMT function. Featuring a 41 mm case in either stainless steel or 18k rose gold, it retains the classic Navitimer style, albeit with a cleaner look without the chronograph sub-dials. Initial Thoughts After revamping the Navitimer in 2022, Breitling gave its trademark aviator’s chronograph more vintage-inspired aesthetics, including more compact cases. Given that the Navitimer is synonymous with the chronograph, it’s not unreasonable to criticise the GMT has having lost some of the spirit of the original. However, I dig the cleaner aesthetics without the pushers and the triple registers. And this is also more affordable. Most Navitimer chronographs are equipped with the in-house B01 movement, resulting in an hefty entry price of US$9,600. The Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 is equipped with an ETA calibre, resulting in a slightly more affordable price that starts at US$6,200 on a stainless steel bracelet. Many other brands in this price bracket now utilise in-house or heavily improved movements, which puts this at a disadvantage in terms of mechanics. That puts it in the middle of the pack for accessible GMT watches: not as affordable as a Longines or the same value proposition as a Tudor, but it has the advantage of the classic Navitimer look th...

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Patek Philippe Mar 31, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak - The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part III

An outlandish concept that originally sprang from the mind of Carole Forestier Kasapi, the Ulysse Nardin Freak of 2001 was perfected by Dr Ludwig Oechslin and then made reality thanks to the advent of silicon in watchmaking. Lightweight and magnetism resistant, silicon was used for the escape wheels but that was only the beginning of the story. [This story, the third and final instalment in the series, details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor. The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement.] Silicon, Silicium, Silinvar Now used interchangeably with silicon, silicium is actually French for “silicon”, but now it is also used as the trade name for the proprietary form of silicon used by Ulysse Nardin for movement components, namely silicon with a hard oxide outer layer that gives the material thermocompensating properties. Silicium was developed by Swiss scientific institute Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique (CSEM) in collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. Notably, the material is also known as Silinvar, which resulted from a separated but related CSEM project backed by a consortium made up of Rolex, Patek Philippe and Swatch Group. As a ...

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Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 Mar 29, 2024

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 on Show in Geneva

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe is exhibiting the year’s Rare Handcrafts its Geneva Salon from April 13 to 27, alongside the final few days of Watches & Wonders. Aside from the 82 watches and clocks – the largest Rare Handcrafts collection ever presented – the engravers and enamellers will be on hand to demonstrate their craft. The timepieces in the exhibition, comprising seven Dome Clocks, three table clocks, nine pocket watches, and 43 wristwatches, showcase the brand’s mastery of traditional techniques, ranging from the familiar like cloisonné and champlevé, to those less often encountered in watchmaking, such as wood marquetry and Longwy enamel on faience. As has long been the case for the Rare Handcrafts collection, all of the timepieces on show are available in theory, but typically allocated to the best clients. The Rare Handcrafts collection will be exhibited in three sections, each grouped according to the particular timepiece form. Upon entering the Salon, guests will encounter a dozen Calatrava wristwatches with enamel dials bearing the constellations of the zodiac, executed in a range of techniques, namely grisaille, cloisonné, and paillonné. The Napoleon room The exhibition continues into the Napoleon room facing Lake Geneva. Here are the watches inspired by nature, including the pocket watch ref. 995/143G-001 “Portrait of a White Egret” with a wood marquetry dial. The ref. 995/143G-001 with its matching stand The last section ...

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Breitling derived MT5813 movement I Mar 28, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Limited Production Black Bay Chrono “Pink”

In a surprise launch just before Watches & Wonders 2024, Tudor has just revealed the Black Bay Chrono “Pink”. Departing from the brand’s typical no-nonsense and occasionally military aesthetic, the new chronograph is based on a watch created for Jay Chou, the Taiwanese musician who’s one of the biggest stars in Asia. Though not a limited edition, Tudor states “few of [Black Bay Chrono “Pink”] will ever be made”. Initial thoughts Tudor’s watches are almost uniformly good value, regardless of model, so I am a fan. But most have either a sporting instrument or military equipment, which is to say the variety in design is limited (save for a handful of unpublicised special runs). It’s difficult to describe most Tudor watches as fun, which this certainly is. The Black Bay Chrono “Pink” is appealing because, well, it’s pink. The colour instantly sets it apart from the average Tudor watch, while also having being a subtle reference to historical models. And of course it is the value proposition that a Tudor always is, particularly with the high-spec Breitling-derived MT5813 movement. I like the watch, but I am unsure about the “5-link” bracelet (that is clearly Jubilee inspired), particularly on a watch of this size. Still, it’s a compelling enough proposition I would buy one given the opportunity. Jay Chou Otherwise serious looking This is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono that is ordinarily a low key watch, available either as a “panda” o...

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Blancpain Mar 28, 2024

The Biver Carillon Tourbillon Gets a Three-Dimensional Guilloche Dial

Biver concludes the 50-piece run of its flagship Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon with a striking pair featuring its first guilloche dials. Instead of the conventional engine turning on metal, the dials are either black obsidian or white mother-of-pearl, both finished with three-dimensional guilloche. Inspired by the links of the brand’s bracelet, the guilloche forms a terraced geometric patterns in dial centre that’s elegantly accentuated by baguette-cut diamond indexes. Initial thoughts Despite being neither a watchmaker, engineer, nor constructor, Jean-Claude Biver is an individual who personifies the Swiss watch industry – and he isn’t even Swiss. In his career so far, he revived two brands, Blancpain and then Hublot, and in between the two turbocharged Omega, in the process becoming one of the most influential and respected personalities in watchmaking. So when Mr Biver announced that he and his son Pierre would be starting their own brand, everyone was paying attention. The brand’s inaugural watch, the Carillon Tourbillon, is a grand complication executed to an impressive degree of quality. The design, however, was debatable. Consequently the brand got off to a tough start, particularly on social media where the criticism of its design was free flowing. With a one-off created for charity auction Only Watch, Biver eliminated the dial, resulting in a striking, appealing watch. Here the brand has retained the dial, but with new materials and decoration. The...

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Grand Seiko Alive Mar 28, 2024

The First Overseas Stop for Grand Seiko “Alive in Time Through the Five Senses”

In its first stop outside of Japan, Alive in Time Through the Five Senses just concluded in Singapore, with other cities possibly being on the cards. Conceived to present the spirit of the brand by engaging all five senses, the exhibition was made up of five sections: sight, sound, touch, taste, and smell. The exhibition began with sight, where guests were greeted by watchmakers Satoshi Hiraga and Ikukiyo Komatsu, representing the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi and Shinshu Watch Studio respectively. The former specialises in mechanical movements, while the latter is responsible for Spring Drive, so each watchmaker demonstrated his speciality: Mr Hiraga worked on a 9S automatic calibre while Mr Komatsu on a 9R Spring Drive movement. Also on display was the third Grand Seiko movement family, the 9F Quartz. The visual transitioned to the aural in the sound section where visitors were treated to an immersive film experience depicting the 340 parts of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon. Despite the impressive mechanical complexity of the Kodo, one of the distinguishing elements of the movement is its 16-beat rhythm resulting from the overlapping ticks and tocks of both the escapement and the remontoir. The exhibition continued in the area dedicated to touch simulating a precisely prepared Zen garden. Guests could try various Grand Seiko models – and take the obligatory wrist shot against the tranquil beauty of the garden. The taste and smell area concluded the experience with...

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Ulysse Nardin Freak – Mar 26, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak - The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part II

Having explored the origins of the Ulysse Nardin Freak, from its concept by Carole Forestier Kasapi to its realisation by Dr Ludwig Oechslin, we now turn to the Freak’s more recent innovations, starting with the Dual Ulysse Escapement. [This story explains the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement of the Freak. Part I, covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and innovative escapement. Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] A new and improved version of the Dual Direct escapement in the original 2001 Freak, the Dual Ulysse made its debut in 2005 inside the Freak 28’000 V/H, colloquially known as the Freak 2. Slightly larger than the original model but otherwise very similar, the Freak 2 operated at 28,000 beats per hour (4 Hz), a higher frequency than the 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) of the original Freak. One of the factors which made possible the increase in frequency was the revised escapement christened the Dual Ulysse Escapement. A diagram showing the key parts of the Dual Ulysse Escapement. Image – Ulysse Nardin The Dual Ulysse Escapement Another creation of Dr Oechslin’s, the Dual Ulysse departs from the classical natural escapement à la Breguet that the original Dual Direct Escapement was based on, but it still bears some resemblance to its...

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Mar 25, 2024

Book Review: The Obscure Illustrated Glossary of Watchmaking

The Obscure Illustrated Glossary of Watchmaking. By Adriano Ramos Passarelli. Independently published; US$34.90 in paperback, US$28.90 in e-book format. Self published by a watch aficionado turned watchmaker, The Obscure Illustrated Glossary of Watchmaking is not an entirely accurate title. It is certainly more useful than the title implies. The book is a comprehensive and helpful – and includes obscure terms – with information presented in a clear, accessible manner. In fact, the glossary is wide ranging enough to be useful for enthusiasts who are reasonably knowledgeable, no doubt due to the author’s background. Based in Brazil and an architect by training, Mr Passarelli began as a watch enthusiast before joining the watch industry. Starting with journalism, Mr Passarelli then joined a service centre for Swiss brands as a manager, and finally arriving at the bench as a watchmaker in 2020. His breadth of knowledge – and certainly his interest in watches – is evident in the book, a project he has been working on part-time for over a decade. The book was first published in Portuguese and this is the first English edition. Traditional terms like anglage and PlexiGlas are found inside, but also trade names like Chronergy, Diashield, and KIF. In fact, the book even includes words that would be obscure to almost anyone but a watchmaker, including Rodico, Witschi, and Vibrograf. Importantly, most definitions smartly include the equivalent term in French, the working la...

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Vacheron Constantin Having announced Mar 25, 2024

Masterpieces from the Met for the Wrist by Vacheron Constantin

Having announced a partnership with The Metropolitan Museum of Art last year, Vacheron Constantin has just launched Masterpiece on Your Wrist, a programme that offers the opportunity to commission timepieces featuring enamel dials that replicate select artworks from the Met’s collection in a wristwatch created by Les Cabinotiers, the watchmaker’s workshop for custom and bespoke watches. A client could commission Vincent van Gogh’s Wheat Field with Cypresses as a minute repeater for instance. Naturally, clients who commission such a timepiece will receive more than a watch. The process includes a private tour of the Met and a visit to Vacheron Constantin’s Geneva manufacture. Wheat Field with Cypresses Initial thoughts Geneva’s important watchmakers, namely Vacheron Constantin and its crosstown rival, have long reproduced important works of art on wrist (or pocket) watch dials. In the late 20th century, Suzanne Rohr famously replicated various classical European artworks in miniature enamel. And more recently, Anita Porchet recreated Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring on the monumental Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie commissioned by a noted Asian collector. Masterpiece on Your Wrist is a continuation and formalisation of that historical practice that also allows privileged access to one of the world’s most noted museums. For an art lover, this is quite the opportunity. Bridge over a Pond of Water Lilies by Claude Monet Granted, most of the artworks in th...

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Rado Mar 22, 2024

Interview: Lisa Bridge, CEO of Ben Bridge Jeweler

Luxury watch retail has transformed markedly in the past decade – from the rise of mono-brand boutiques and e-commerce, to industry consolidation and the growth of the secondary market – traditional retailers have had to navigate several converging trends. We sat down with Lisa Bridge, chief executive of Ben Bridge Jewelers, to hear her views on these topics. Founded in 1912, Seattle-based Ben Bridge Jewelers is one of the largest watch and jewellery retailers in the western United States, operating 35 locations in nine states from Colorado to Hawaii. Although the company was acquired by Berkshire Hathaway in 2000, it continues to be run by the Bridge family. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Brandon Moore (BM): What do you see as the biggest growth drivers in the U.S. luxury watch retail sector over the next few years? Lisa Bridge (LB): It’s been an exciting renaissance in the watch industry over the last few years in terms of the number of people who have a real interest and a real desire to collect and to be passionate about watches. It’s not necessarily what people predicted a few years ago when people were talking about Apple Watches as an existential threat to the Swiss watch industry. Instead, it’s been the opposite. [The Apple Watch] got people wearing a watch and then going, oh, let me learn more about this watch thing. And the experience for customers has also increased and will continue to improve over the next few years in terms of the ...

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Louis Erard Introduces Mar 21, 2024

Louis Erard Introduces the Affordable Tourbillon Alain Silberstein

Louis Erard returns to its flagship model, the Le Régulateur Tourbillon x Alain Silberstein, now in black. The tourbillon builds on the previous collaborations with the French designer but ups the ante on price and complexity. Louis Erard first tapped Alain Silberstein, known for his instantly recognisable Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic, in 2019 for a successful collaboration that led to a second collection in 2021. This new 78-piece limited edition is the first time Le Régulateur Tourbillon is presented in Silberstein’s typical Bauhaus colours. The model initially debuted last year as part of a three-piece set in khaki green, followed by a 10-piece limited edition made for UAE-based retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Initial thoughts Louis Erard has created an interesting niche for itself in the world of independent watchmaking with its ongoing string of well-priced collaborations with established independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Vianney Halter. And while the brand is arguably at its best when it challenges conventional expectations of watch design, such as its collaborations with designers from outside the industry like Oliver Mosset and atelier oï, the designs of Alain Silberstein have proven timeless in their own quirky way. Le Régulateur Tourbillon features a 40 mm titanium case that is also surprisingly slim at just 11.8 mm. That said, it’s likely to wear larger due to the hinged strap loops that extend beyond the case. With a black nylon strap and...

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Blancpain Introduces Mar 21, 2024

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42 mm

Having marked the 70th anniversary of its signature dive watch last year, Blancpain is now adding the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42 mm to the lineup. Maintaining the vintage-inspired style of its larger sibling, the new Fifty Fathoms has a more compact, 42 mm case that’s available in either red gold or titanium – both entirely brushed – a size that was first seen on the 70th Anniversary Act 1 limited edition. Initial thoughts The overall appearance of the new Fifty Fathoms stays close to the longstanding ref. 5015, but in a smaller package. While its predecessor was a chunky 45 mm, the latest model is 42 mm. It retains almost exactly the same design, and even the same cal. 1315 inside (now visible through a display back), but in a more wearable case. If you liked the earlier version but found it too big, then the appeal of the 42 mm model is clear. More broadly, the CHF15,000-ish price point of the Fifty Fathoms is competitive given the build quality. The case and dial execution are good, while the movement is one of the more sophisticated amongst sports watches in this price range. New packaging The new Fifty Fathoms is essentially a compact version of the 45 mm model, which was launched in 2007, making it one of the longest tenured models in the catalogue. The 42 mm version preserves the familiar design, but in a smaller format. So the dial retains the Arabic numerals at the quarters, sword hands, and the italic model name above six. Because of the reduced size, th...

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Omega are once again dropping Mar 21, 2024

Swatch Unveils the MoonSwatch “Snoopy” Mission to the Moonphase

Swatch and Omega are once again dropping another collaboration that is bound to be a hit, the MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase. Inspired by the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch “Snoopy”, the new MoonSwatch features a moon phase along with an all-white Bioceramic case and matching white strap. Snoopy resides on the moon phase display at two o’clock, which features a hidden quote printed in Super-Luminova, “I can’t sleep without a night light!”, that is invisible except in the dark or when exposed to UV light. The Mission to the Moonphase is not a limited edition and instead part of the permanent collection. Initial thoughts Although the MoonSwatch has been a massive hit in terms of units sold – the total sold to date is in the low millions – recent iterations of the model haven’t been particularly exciting, with most of them simply having the addition of a gold-plated seconds hand. With the MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase, however, Swatch is bringing something more interesting to the table. While it certainly isn’t imaginative, the appeal of the watch is obvious. For one, it builds on the capitalises on the desirability of the actual Speedmaster “Snoopy”. At the same time, the all-white livery sets it apart from the other MoonSwatch iterations. Like the other versions of the MoonSwatch, the new Snoopy edition offers decent value at US$310. It is inexpensive, though it does feel inexpensive since the case is essentially plastic mixed with ceramic. B...

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Girard-Perregaux Introduces Mar 20, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in Titanium

Girard-Perregaux has revealed the newest iteration of its sports chronograph, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 – the name is a reference to the 49th anniversary of a model originally created for the Italian market. The new chronograph retains all the characteristics of the current version in steel but is entirely in titanium and matched with a monochromatic grey dial. Initial thoughts A titanium sports chronograph isn’t revolutionary – there are a lot of them on the market – but the new Laureato possesses qualities that distinguish it from the competition. The low-key, all-grey aesthetic is appealing and also reduces the visual heft of the watch. In spite of its considerable size of 42 mm, the all-titanium construction reduces the bulky feel. Furthermore, the short lugs help with the fit on the wrist. And more so than the steel versions with variously coloured dial, this grey dial has a retro feel as it evokes the original integrated-bracelet sports watches of the 1970s, the very watches that inspired the Laureato, which almost uniformly sported grey-blue dials. The chronograph carries a price tag of US$19,400, a US$800 hike over the steel version. For a lightweight, monochromatic variant of the model, the premium is justified. All grey Based on the current Laureato Chronograph that made its debut in 2018, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 marks the 49th anniversary of the 1975 launch of the Laureato, which was reputedly named after the 1967 Dustin Hoffman film The Gradu...

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Mar 20, 2024

Breaking News: Michael Schumacher’s AP Royal Oak, F.P. Journe Vagabondage at Christie’s

The spring sale season that kicks off in Geneva come mid May will no doubt include many top lots across the three major auction houses, but Christie’s will claim two of the most compelling watches to go on the block: an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph and F.P. Journe Vagabondage, both unique pieces made for Michael Schumacher. Gifts from longtime Scuderia Ferrari manager Jean Todt, each watch features a custom dial commemorating Mr Schumacher’s unprecedented streak of Formula 1 world championships, as well as commemorative engraving on the back. The pair come straight from the Schumacher collection, consigned by his family along with a handful of other watches. Mr Schumacher’s watches will be offered at Christie’s Rare Watches auction taking place on May 13, 2024 in Geneva. Initial thoughts I follow F1 casually and I usually don’t like watches with emblems on the dial – the Vagabondage has 11 logos on the hour scale – but these two watches are exceptionally desirable in my eyes, particularly the Vagabondage, which is incredible for its rarity and provenance. The watches capture Mr Schumacher’s remarkable racing career – his seven world championships tie him with Lewis Hamilton as the all-time record holders – evoking the glamour and prestige of Formula 1 but also the longstanding association between watchmakers and auto racing that arguably started with sports chronographs like the Daytona and Carrera in the 1960s. At the same time, the watches il...

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TAG Heuer Mar 19, 2024

Renaud Tixier Debuts with the Monday Micro-Rotor

Already collaborators on several projects, Dominique Renaud, one of the founders of Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a young watchmaker and constructor, have established Renaud Tixier, a brand backed by investors. The inaugural creation of Renaud Tixier is Monday, a time-only watch with an automatic movement sporting a novel micro-rotor. Conceived to realise Mr Renaud’s many concepts and inventions, Renaud Tixier also aims to blend the styles of the two watchmakers. Each of the namesake founders comes from a different generation of watchmaking – pre- and post-Quartz Crisis – but the duo enjoy a shared philosophy that have made their past projects a success, something they are hoping to replicate with Renaud Tixier. Initial thoughts On a macro level, the Renaud Tixier and its first watch are noteworthy for a few reasons. One of its main points of appeal, at least initially, is the name, specifically Dominique Renaud. Even though he departed Renaud & Papi (APRP) over 20 years ago, his name still carries weight, particularly since many alumni of APRP, Anthony de Haas of Lange and Carole Forestier of TAG Heuer for instance, speak well of him. The name will certainly help sell the watch, particularly in countries with a strong reverence for creators and history, like Japan for example. And the fact that it’s a micro-rotor is noteworthy. Though relatively common in high-end watchmaking, micro-rotors are rare amongst independent watchmakers. The most prominent indie mak...

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Citizen Marks Centenary Mar 18, 2024

Citizen Marks Centenary with Pocket Watch and New Calibre

Twenty twenty-four marks the 100th anniversary of the first-ever Citizen watch – a pocket watch powered by the hand-wound cal. 16. To celebrate the centenary, Citizen looks towards the next century with an all-new calibre making its debut in the 100th Anniversary of the First Citizen Watch Special Limited Edition, a pocket watch with a pleasing vintage aesthetic but one that’s entirely modern in materials and manufacturing. Initial thoughts Pocket watches are uncommon today, which is perhaps why they are difficult to get right in terms of look and feel. Contemporary pocket watches often try to replicate the look and feel of their vintage counterparts, but usually end up seeming artificial and lacking in authenticity. As a result, the Citizen anniversary pocket watch is certainly an interesting proposition.  The Citizen cal. 0270 At first sight, the watch is convincingly vintage in appearance. It is evidently carefully designed, with classical styling on both sides and well-chosen details in the movement, which lends it a genuine sense of timelessness. The dial design is evocative of railway pocket watches (which Citizen did supply to Japanese railway companies), while the movement has the elegant bridges and proportions characteristics of old-school calibres. But on closer examination, many details in the dial and case reveal themselves to be modern, like the fact that the case is titanium or the balance wheel has Gyromax-style regulating weights. Even the seemingly a...

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Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm Mar 15, 2024

Hands On: The Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm

Longines facelifted the Conquest Chronograph last year, giving it more vintage flavour while retaining the sporty style of its predecessor and also the slightly-too-big case. The new look is reminiscent of a more famous sports chronograph, but compared to its predecessor, the new Conquest is more coherent. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Conquest Chronograph bears a striking resemblance to the modern Rolex Daytona, which is unsurprising given the commercial success of the Cosmograph (hence Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport as well). But in the hand it is clearly a larger, chunkier watch than its famous rival, and upon closer inspection, the dial design is also distinct with several interesting details. The previous Conquest tried to be different and ended up being too much. That design was characterised by an oversized “12” that was recognisable but not sophisticated. Although the resemblance to the modern Daytona is apparent at a distance, the dial gets more interesting up close (and also gives off some Paul Newman vibes). The new Conquest has a cleaner dial design with a slightly retro style thanks to a sector-like chapter ring. It does without a date, something purists will approve of. Although all four dial colours share the same design, two stand out. The champagne dial is a unique colour for a sports chronograph in this price segment, while the silver dial has just the right amount of red accents, with the red-outlined luminous squares being particularly interest...

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Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour Mar 13, 2024

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour

A watch that exemplifies the ambitious vertical integration of Louis Vuitton’s watch division, the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour combines a skeleton tourbillon movement with a plique-à-jour enamel dial. Transparent and akin to stained glass, plique-à-jour enamel is rare in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands having accomplished it. But this specific form on the Voyager tourbillon, which goes without any backing under the dial, is even more uncommon. Because there is no base for the dial, the transparency of both the dial and the movement is maximised. Initial thoughts The original version of this watch, essentially identical but without the enamel dial, was launched in 2016. Louis Vuitton didn’t get much attention as a watchmaker then, though I liked the watch, particularly the slim profile and open-worked movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The quality of the watch indicated Louis Vuitton was going places as a watch brand. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since then as a watchmaker. It now boasts several automaton wristwatches, the Rexhep Rexhepi RR01 collaboration, and its own prize for independent watchmakers. Appropriately enough, the Voyager tourbillon has been enhanced, reflecting the substantial expansion and development of LFT since 2016. The movement, dial, and case are all made in-house at LFT, reflecting Louis Vuitton’s impressive manufacture that now rivals some of the most prominent names in haute horlog...

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