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Patek Philippe Revamps Boutique Mar 11, 2024

Business News: Patek Philippe Revamps Boutique in Singapore’s MBS

Patek Philippe has just reopened its longstanding boutique in the Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino resort in Singapore, after a renovation that gave the store a wall-to-wall makeover. Operated in partnership with Cortina Watch, a family-owned retailer that’s one of the brand’s biggest partners, the boutique features the brand’s latest store aesthetic that nonetheless remains recognisable with it use of dark and pale woods along with brass. Located in a choice location near the entrance to the gaming floor, the boutique covers 262 sq m, or over 2,800 sq ft. As is increasingly the practice for watch stores, the space is not just a showroom to display watches, but also includes an exhibit on Patek Philippe’s history as well as a lounge area with a bar. An enduring partnership  One of Southeast Asia’s biggest retailers, Cortina became a Patek Philippe retailer in 1972. Twenty-twenty tw0 marked Cortina’s 50th year with Patek Philippe, an occasion marked by the Calatrava ref. 5057G, one of the rare instances the Geneva brand created a reference specifically for a retailer. Cortina established the first Patek Philippe boutique in Singapore in 2010, with the MBS story opening a year later. The retailer now operates more than half a dozen Patek Philippe boutiques in Asia, including stores in Hong Kong and Taiwan. The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G made for Cortina’s 50th anniversary in 2022 The MBS boutique is the first in Singapore to feature the brand’s latest...

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Girard-Perregaux Introduces Mar 11, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge Meteorite

Girard-Perregaux (GP) is dressing up its entry-level “bridge” model with meteorite panels that flank the visible barrel and going train. The Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite retains the model’s 44 mm steel case with a domed crystal and ergonomic lugs, with the centrepiece being the free-sprung balance wheel and escapement in silicon. Initial Thoughts GP’s flagship complication, historically speaking, was the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. The Free Bridge is an abbreviated, affordable take on the Three Bridge concept. Although the Free Bridge is a simple watch – it’s a two-hand timepiece indicating just hours and minutes – it has been executed fairly elaborately in terms of the movement. In that sense, the Free Bridge is similar to the Ulysse Nardin Freak X, which is not surprising since the two are sister companies. However, past versions of the Free Bridge were fairly plain in terms of design. The Free Bridge Meteorite is a bit more stylish in terms of aesthetics thanks to the meteorite panels that frame the open-worked movement. The silvery-grey tone of the meteorite is a good match for the black and grey palette of the watch. At CHF24,600, the Free Bridge Meteorite isn’t too expensive, though it isn’t the same sort of value proposition that the Freak X is. Though the two watches are similar thematically, the Freak X has a more complex movement but only costs about 10% more. The Free Bridge Meteorite would have been a similar value propositio...

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Mar 8, 2024

Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy

Every mechanical watch employs at least one mainspring barrel as its energy source. When a watch is wound, the coils of the mainspring tighten, storing potential energy which is then slowly released through the gear train to the escapement. The mainspring is enclosed in a toothed barrel, essentially a drum covered by gear teeth. As a result the barrel is often considered to be the first wheel of the going train.  Although one is the norm, two or even more barrels can be employed, typically to generate more energy. Double barrel movements usually feature two mainsprings kinematically linked in one of two ways: in parallel or in series. The number of mainsprings, energy stored, and power reserve are illustrated with equations (1), (2), and (3): As described by equation (1), the energy of a single barrel E is a function of its torque, angular discharge velocity and running time (autonomy). Linking two identical barrels naturally means having twice the energy, so 2E. By convenient association, equation (2) exploits the available energy to double the torque sent to the gear train, while equation (3) takes advantage of the total energy by doubling the running time.  Parallel barrels The parallel arrangement of barrels embodies equation (2), which delivers twice the torque, increasing the energy available to run the movement (but not increasing the running time). Here two barrels unwind at the same time on a centre pinion connected to a second mobile of the going train. An embo...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 in Pink Gold

To mark the collection’s fifth anniversary, Audemars Piguet (AP) has launched seven new variants of the Code 11.59 in pink gold that are available in both 41 mm and 38 mm cases, with the 41 mm option being available with or without a chronograph. While none of the individual elements are novel (the new models are a melange of successful elements from recent launches) the new 38 mm model in navy blue – specifically the same hue as the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST – is one of the most appealing variants of the Code 11.59 to-date. Initial thoughts Though often considered a gateway to the brand’s most sought-after models like the Royal Oak, the Code 11.59 has quietly evolved into a full-fledged collection that now includes everything from simple time-only pieces to the grandest of grand complications.  The new references reflect the updated Code 11.59 aesthetic introduced last year in stainless steel, which comprised an updated hand set and stamped guilloché dials in crowd-pleasing colours like navy blue and dark green. It is in this respect that the 38 mm model with navy blue dial that stands out. While not the first 38 mm Code 11.59, it is the first in a mainstream colourway. Combined with the more wearable size, this new variant adds significant appeal to the overall collection. The pricing of the new Code 11.59 depends on the size and the complication: the 38 mm models are priced at CHF27,500, while the 41 mm is available for extra CHF1,000 and the chronogr...

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Vacheron Constantin Audemars Piguet has firmly Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Tourbillon Openworked “Sand Gold”

Audemars Piguet (AP) has introduced the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in a new proprietary 18ak gold alloy known as sand gold. Essentially a precious-metal variant of the steel version released in 2022, the new Tourbillon Openworked showcases the brand’s commitment to interesting materials – possible in part due to AP owning its own case maker. While the hype for integrated-bracelet sport watches has ebbed, AP has continued to deliver successive variants of its popular Royal Oak in exotic materials ranging from brown ceramic to frosted gold. Priced at CHF250,000, this latest variant pairs a warm-hued gold case and bracelet with one of the brand’s most modern movements. Initial thoughts Unlike its “Holy Trinity” peers Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet has firmly embraced a contemporary, architectural aesthetic throughout its collections. The new Tourbillon Openworked is emblematic of this theme, eschewing traditional decorative finishes like Côtes de Geneve in favour of minimalist graining and sharp angles. Featuring the brand’s latest generation flying tourbillon movement plated to match the case, the sand gold tourbillon presents a striking monochrome appearance. While skeletonised watches can often look fussy and chaotic, the geometric bridges of the cal. 2972 were clearly designed with openworking in mind. As a result, the overall aesthetic is clean and organised. The 41 mm case is well-proportioned at just 10.6 mm...

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Audemars Piguet Debuts Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Debuts a Royal Oak Pair with Smoked Yellow Gold Dials

Audemars Piguet has just launched its “first semester collection” that’ll take us through the first half of the year. Most are variations of current models, with two of the most striking sharing the same dial in “smoked yellow gold”, namely the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37 mm (ref. 15550BA) and the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm (ref. 26240BA). Both are fashioned in yellow gold and complemented by a striking dial with a gradient yellow gold finish, conceived to homage to the brand’s yellow gold Royal Oak models of the 1970s. Initial thoughts The smoked yellow gold finish was introduced on the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in 2022, so the new releases aren’t a surprise. Nonetheless, it is satisfying to see this dial finish on more compact models like the 37 mm ref. 15550. Between the two releases, the time-only ref. 15550 is the standout. The clean, radially brushed dial pairs perfectly with the finely grained texture of the frosted case. On the other hand, the dial finish is less punchy on the chronograph due to the traditional tapisserie guilloche. The chronograph, however, is an imposing watch overall due to its size and weight. The time-only model retails for CHF55,000, while the chronograph is priced at CHF63,000 – both sit in the current range for similar Royal Oak models. Neither is a value proposition, though both are appealing variants of the design. Smoked yellow gold dials Both new launches are variants of existing models, compact Royal ...

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VPC Debuts Mar 7, 2024

VPC Debuts with the Type 37HW

Founded last year by Thomas van Straaten, VPC is a Dutch micro brand making its debut with the Type 37HW. Mr van Straaten, who formerly works for an Amsterdam-based watch dealer and now writes for media platform Fratello, started VPC with the goal of creating the “ultimate” everyday watch in his words. VPC is short for Venustas Per Constantiam, Latin that translates as either  “beauty through constancy” or “charm through restraint.”  Featuring numerous clever details, the Type 37HW is the result of Mr van Straaten’s own experience owning, and later growing bored with, numerous watches that, in his view, featured compromised designs. He appears to have approached this problem forensically, considering everything from the bracelet end-links to the typography on the dial. Initial Thoughts The Type 37HW is an impressive debut that manages to stand out in a crowded segment of the watch market thanks to several interesting details. The central premise of the Type 37HW is that it is a “go anywhere, do anything”, or GADA, watch. Almost every aspect of the watch appears to have been designed with this use case in mind.  The Type 37HW offers goldilocks proportions, and is unusually slim at just 9.8 mm thick (including 2 mm for the domed sapphire crystal). The svelte profile is likely possible thanks to the use of a manually wound Sellita SW216-1. Unfortunately, the combination of a screw-down crown and a manually wound movement – one with a relatively short 45...

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Seiko Presage Features Silk-Pattern Dials Mar 7, 2024

The Latest Seiko Presage Features Silk-Pattern Dials

Usually focused on decorative and artisanal dials made affordable, the Seiko Presage collection now turns to traditional textiles for inspiration. Comprising five models, the Presage Classic Series features textured dials in a range of discreet colours, each inspired by the textures and colours of Japanese silk. The dials are matched with a redesigned case conceived to feel thinner, along with retro-style bracelets. Initial thoughts Unusual dials inspired by Japanese culture and priced affordably are precisely the appeal of the Presage. The Classic Series carries on with this specialty. The domed, silk-texture dials set them apart from similarly-priced watches. The SPB467, for instance, appears to have a fashionable salmon dial, but the fine texturing – inspired by araigaki (or “washed persimmon”) silk – distinguishes it from the competition. The texturing is finer than most dials in the same price range. That said, there are actually two distinct dial patterns in the Classic Series (and four different colours across five references). Three are time-and-date models that are concise and elegant. The two “open heart” models, on the other hand, are not for everyone since the aperture revealing the balance wheel disrupts the aesthetics of the dial. Besides the dial, the Classic Series also features a new case design that camouflages the height of the case with curved lugs and a thinner case middle. This is matched with a vintage-style bracelet that brings to mind o...

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Seiko Upgrades Mar 7, 2024

Seiko Upgrades the “62MAS” Prospex Diver

A bestseller available in several variants to date, the modern-day “62MAS” now gets a substantive upgrade with the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. The new diver is a direct successor of cal. 6R35-powered models, including the SPB143 and SPB239 of 2021. Released in two regular-production models (SPB451 and SPB453), plus a 100th anniversary special edition (SPB455), the latest Prospex “62MAS” improves on earlier models in three key areas: water resistance is now 300 m, the case is slightly more compact, and the movement is now the cal. 6R55 with a 72-hour power reserve. SPB451 Initial Thoughts As is usually the case with Prospex dive watches, the latest take on the 62MAS is robust and good looking. The new divers are safe bets as they rely on a proven formula – the classic 62MAS design with improved technical features. The SPB455 in particular stands out with its vintage-flavoured gilt accents. That said, the designs stay traditional; these are difficult to distinguish from their predecessors at a distance. A more distinctive design, perhaps with patterned dials that Seiko excels in, would have made these more compelling. SPB453 Importantly, the new trio also stays in the sub-US$1,500 price segment. Few dive watches in this price range have the same historical provenance, since Seiko was a pioneer in dive watch development. The regular production pair are only US$100 pricier than the SPB143 (and the special edition an extra US$200). The premium is easily ju...

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Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon Mar 6, 2024

Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial

Making full use of its recently established enamel workshop, Louis Vuitton debuts the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour. Equipped with a skeleton tourbillon movement bearing the Geneva Seal, the new Voyager features a dial of translucent enamel in a gold lattice that is similar to stained glass. Initial thoughts The Voyager tourbillon was unveiled in its original format in 2016. I examined the watch at the time, and came away impressed by both the design and finishing, though I felt it was pricey. The case was elegantly proportioned and sat particularly well on the wrist, being just over 9 mm tall. And the movement was surprisingly airy while having a high level of decoration equivalent to that found in establishment haute horlogerie names. The plique-à-jour is essentially the same thing but with an enamel dial. The thickness of the dial adds to the case height, bringing it to over 11 mm, so the new tourbillon doesn’t have the slimness but it remains an elegant watch. The artisanal dial does add another level of appeal, particularly since this enamel technique is not often used in watches, particularly on the large surface of entire dial. Personally I would have preferred colours other than blue and grey for the enamel, but geometric, repeating “V” motif of the dial is attractive. As for the price, well, this is an expensive watch, though arguably not as much as in 2016.. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since as a watchmaker, with the br...

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Omega Introduces Speedmaster Moonwatch Mar 5, 2024

Omega Introduces Speedmaster Moonwatch with a White Lacquer Dial

First seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig late last year, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” is now official. Dial aside, it’s identical to the standard Moonwatch with the cal. 3861. The new Speedmaster is regular production and priced almost exactly the same as the standard model. Initial thoughts The new Speedmaster is only a dial variant of the familiar Moonwatch in black. It isn’t substantively novel, though it is notable for being regular production. Historically, Speedmasters with white or silver dials have been either limited editions, like the Alaska Project, or in precious metal, like the model in Canopus gold. The watch itself, however, is executed well. The lacquered dial is slightly glossy and matched with black-coated hands and markers, with the red “Speedmaster” giving it colour. For only US$100 more than the regular model – which is iconic but also common – this is certainly a compelling alternative. White, red, and black The new Speedmaster features a dial with a lacquered finish that gives it a smooth, glossy surface. According to Omega, this is the first Moonwatch with a lacquered dial. Though the finish is different, the dial retains all of the details that characterise the Moonwatch dial, including the step on its perimeter and recessed registers with concentric graining. The hands and applied markers also retain the same classic design, but are finished with a black coating for legibility. Notably, the sta...

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Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata Louis Mar 1, 2024

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata

Louis Vuitton has received much press recently for the Tambour, a restrained, sleek watch with just three hands. But the brand also makes watches at the other end of the spectrum, as personified by the Tambour Opera Automata. A large watch with an even larger presence, the Opera Automata is an extremely complicated watch with a kinetic dial – that is also enamelled by Anita Porchet. The pusher at two o’clock activates the automata on the dial, which also serves to indicate the time with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Although mechanically identical to the earlier Carpe Diem automata watch, the Opera Automata is more striking thanks to its vivid colours, and also more relatable for East Asians given the theme. Initial thoughts The Tambour Opera Automata is a statement watch that is hard to miss by virtue of its size and colour. Although the extravagant style is typical of Louis Vuitton, the details of the enamel dial are particularly fine. Moreover, the motif is more appealing to me personally compared to its predecessor, the Carpe Diem from three years ago. I was impressed by the Carpe Diem, both for its complexity and execution, particularly the delicate enamelled snake, but the skull-and-snake motif was too much for me. It was also less relatable, since it is a vanitas, a familiar concept in Western culture. With a Chinese opera motif, the Opera Automata, on the other hand, is more relatable. The Opera Automata is impressively decorated on the front – unsurp...

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Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref 6300G-010 Feb 29, 2024

Business News: Phillips Perpetual Opens in Hong Kong

Five years since opening its first concept store in London, Phillips has now officially launched Phillips Perpetual in Hong Kong. Conceived as a conduit for collectors to buy and sell watches between the biannual auction seasons, Perpetual is located in Pedder Building, a 1920s Beaux-Arts style located in the Central business district. Established in 2019 with a showroom in London and led by James Marks, Perpetual is the private-sale arm of the auction house that allows clients to buy and sell anytime, instead of during the traditional May and November auctions. Perpetual operates physical stores in London and Hong Kong, along with a seasonal pop-up in Gstaad, as well as its e-commerce platform. The Hong Kong outpost strengthens its foothold in Asia, home to many of Phillips’ important clients. Something for everyone As with its London store, the Hong Kong boutique’s offerings will continually evolve. At opening, however, Perpetual in Hong Kong showcases diversity in terms of brands, complications, and styles. The flagship offering is a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G-010, the brand’s most complicated wristwatch boasting a grande and petite sonnerie, alarm, date repeater, second time zone, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. Another highlight is the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon “Homage to F.A. Lange” in Honey Gold launched in 2010 to mark the 165th birthday of its founder. Setting it apart from the earlier Lange 1 Tourbillon is a larger a...

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Cartier Tank LC Feb 28, 2024

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland

To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind. Initial Thoughts The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine. Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise. The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model. Just gold The WOS edition is ...

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Audemars Piguet ref 5516 which was Feb 27, 2024

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today

As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...

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TAG Heuer Carrera Dato “Glassbox” When Feb 27, 2024

Review: TAG Heuer Carrera Dato “Glassbox”

When TAG Heuer revamped the Carrera in 2023 to create the “Glassbox”, it managed to transform a vintage remake into something more modern. The result was praised by enthusiasts, and arguably expanded the brand’s audience. This year TAG Heuer built on the same concept with the Carrera Dato “Glassbox”, a design inspired by the ref. 3147 of 1968. Featuring an unusual date window at nine, the Dato has a single 30-minute register at three o’clock, giving it an asymmetric layout that still has visual balance. Quirky dial design aside, the Dato is standard Glassbox, right down to the highly domed crystal and in-house TH20 movement. Initial Thoughts I write this as the owner of the Carrera “Glassbox” with a black dial, nicknamed “reverse panda”, which was my first-ever TAG Heuer. I was never really a fan of the brand before but when I saw it, I was impressed by the aesthetics. Most striking was how much the dial stands out when on the wrist due to the relatively short lugs. I ended up pulling the trigger on the Glassbox after a few months of contemplation. The Carrera Glassbox in the “reverse panda” colourway On paper, the Dato is not much different from the original Glassbox, since it has exact same specifications aside from the dial’s colour and layout as well as a minor movement tweak to remove two counters. In reality, however, the aesthetic changes make it an entirely different watch. The Dato is a cleaner design that gives something of a dress-watch...

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Tissot Revives Feb 27, 2024

Tissot Revives the PR516 Chronograph with a Hand-Wind Movement

Tissot has enjoyed a streak of appealingly affordable vintage-inspired models ranging from the PRX Digital to the distinctive Sideral. Now, the brand has turned to a sports chronograph from the archives, the PR516 Chronograph. Drawing inspiration from the 1968 model, the PR516 has been given an update with a larger case, sapphire-covered bezel, and a manual-wind Valjoux movement. Initial thoughts  Like the Heuer Carrera and Rolex Daytona, the PR516 Chronograph is a motorsports racing chronograph of the 1960s and 1970s. But unlike its famous, and perhaps iconic, counterparts, the PR516 is hardly known. Despite being under the radar, the original does have a recognisable and appealing 1970s style. That’s been reworked slightly to transform it into the new PR516. The watch isn’t a replica of the original, because it has modern dimensions. In fact, it is chunky and quite thick, dimensions arguably suitable for a modern sports watch. The dial has also been tweaked slightly and now has less text, while the registers are cleaner. For now, the new dial is available only in the same colour as the original, black, though variants are likely if this sells well. With a price tag of US$1,850, the PR516 Chronograph is a value proposition. This is apparent when it’s compared with offerings from micro-brands like as Farer and Excelsior Park, which rely on comparable movements (typically Sellita) but cost a third more. A modern facelift The PR516 is the latest addition to Tissot’s...

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Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting Feb 26, 2024

Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting on a Watch Dial (Again)

To commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Musée Soulages, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) is launching a second edition inspired by Pierre Soulages (1919-2022). The Hampton Polyptyque Edition “Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary” features a dial modelled on Peinture 324 x 362 cm, 1986, Polyptyque I. Inspired by the style of the French abstractionist, the dial reproduces the dense impasto of texture and shapes of the artwork. As with the first edition, it has an all-black case and an overall composition devoid of colour, except for the branding and hands. Initial thoughts While watchmakers often partner with museums, Baume & Mercier’s tie-up with the Musée Soulages’ that started in 2022 yielded the brand’s most compelling watch to date – which is saying a lot for this anaemic brand. The second edition is essentially identical to the first, but with a different artwork on the dial. Though simple, the latest Soulages watch still manages to capture the essence of his work on a tiny canvas.  However, as is always the case with limited editions, the number of editions is inversely proportional to desirability and appeal. While the first edition was special – it reputedly sold out swiftly – the second edition is intrinsically less unique. If there are much more on the horizon then the concept will lose much of its interest. The Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” edition from 2022 Priced at US$6,900, the new Soulages edition costs US$1,050 more than the first edition...

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F.P. Journe Creates Unique Élégante Titalyt Feb 24, 2024

F.P. Journe Creates Unique Élégante Titalyt “Pink” for Charity

F.P. Journe has just unveiled a unique version of its bestselling quartz sports watch that will be sold to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF), an American non-profit that raises funds for medical research. The Élégante Titalyt “Pink” is based on the large 48 mm model with an oxide-coated titanium case. Making it unique is the hour numeral “1” in pink, a detail that is matched by a pink rubber strap. Introduced a decade ago, the Élégante is F.P. Journe’s take on a fuss-free sports watch. Although the Tortue case is historically inspired – and also identical to the case of the Vagabondage models – the Élégante is equipped with the brand’s only quartz movement. Developed in-house, the cal. 1210 features a motion detector that activates “sleep” mode. If the watch is stationary for 35 minutes, the movement goes into hibernation and the hands freeze but the movement continues to keep time. Once the watch is picked up, the hands will travel to show the correct time.  In normal time-telling mode the Élégante will run for eight to ten years on a fresh battery, and in “sleep” mode a battery lasts up to 18 years. The quartz movement of the Élégante has red gold tracks on the circuit board, a reference to the red gold bridges and plates in the brand’s mechanical movements All of the proceeds from the sale of the watch will go to the BCRF. Conducted by Phillips, the auction will take place at a private event on Miami on March 2, h...

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Grand Seiko First” 3180 Remake Feb 24, 2024

A Grand Seiko “First” 3180 Remake in Titanium and Powder Blue

Having just opened its first boutique in Singapore, Grand Seiko has now announced a limited edition especially for the store. The Elegance Collection Singapore Boutique Exclusive SBGW315 is essentially a new take on the “First” cal. 3180 remake. Instead of traditional colours and materials, the SBGW315 renders the familiar design in titanium with a patterned, powder blue dial. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko releases a lot of limited editions – a Spring Drive pair was just announced two weeks ago – but the SBGW315 unexpectedly manages to be different. For one, the base model of the edition is infrequently iterated. The last variant of the “First” remake I can think of was from early 2023 when Grand Seiko unveiled a version with a maki-e lacquer dial. Additionally, past “First” limited editions were more traditional in colour, with plain dials in either silver, cream, or dark colours like black or blue. The SBGW315, on the other hand, combines the aesthetics of the “First” with a decidedly contemporary powder blue dial finished with a radial feathered pattern. While the colour and pattern are hardly novel, they give this watch a distinctive look. Even amongst the numerous Grand Seiko limited editions, the SBGW315 stands out. And it will continue to be uncommon as long as Grand Seiko doesn’t roll out more version of the model in additional colours – which is an overly optimistic assumption given the brand’s inclination towards such watches. A new(ish)...

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Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes Feb 23, 2024

Up Close: Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes

Breguet recently unveiled the latest generation of its minute repeater wristwatch, which embodies minimalist classicism. The Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes has a fired enamel dial in glossy black with just two pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals in silver-powder print – and a case that is a surprisingly large 42 mm. Inside is the cal. 567.2, a variant of the calibre that has equipped Breguet repeating wristwatches since the 1990s. But while today’s cal. 567.2 still has the familiar layout of a traditional striking movement, it incorporates a series of upgrades that give the 7637 particularly impressive acoustic qualities. Initial thoughts The 7637 in its latest guise is a beautiful, elegant watch in the traditional Breguet style. Traditionalists might say the black enamel dial is too stark, but the look is still quintessential Breguet in my eyes. Moreover, this is the best iteration of the model to date. Compared to the earlier open-dial model, the new ref. 7637 is restrained and refined in the manner expected of Breguet. The latest 7637 with an enamel dial (left), and its predecessor that featured an open dial revealing engine-turned movement plates Even though the 7637 is descended from prior generations of Breguet repeating wristwatches – the movement originates in the 1990s – it sounds substantially better. The volume, clarity, and tonality of its chimes are leagues ahead of its predecessors. This results from upgrades to both the movement as well as ca...

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Urwerk inspired Project 1 Barrelhand Feb 22, 2024

Barrelhand Sends “Memory Disc” Case Back to the Moon

Best known for its Urwerk-inspired Project 1, Barrelhand is now working on the Monolith, a watch for astronauts featuring novel innovations, including an air-tight crown that can be adjusted in space or underwater. Described as a “professional grade EVA [extravehicular activity] tool watch compatible with current and next generation xEMU spacesuits”, the Monolith is a work in progress, however, a bit of it has just landed on the Moon. The case back of each Monolith will carry a “Memory Disc”, a nickel-alloy plate with 1,000 pages worth of micro-engraving. A permanent, analogue physical storage medium, it’s a time capsule of sorts. A single Memory Disc has just landed on the Moon as part of the payload on the IM-1  mission carried by the Nova-C lunar lander, nicknamed “Odysseus”, launched by Intuitive Machines, a privately-funded space exploration enterprise that has contracts with NASA to deliver cargo to the Moon. Alongside the Memory Disc, IM-1 also carried an artwork by Jeff Koons as well as a space camera, all of which will remain on the Moon (at least for now). Initial thoughts The Monolith is an interesting proposition as according to Karel Bachand, Barrelhand’s founder, the watch is developed to pass the “EVA tests originally outlined for the Apollo missions… [and] we have full documents outlining the criteria and corresponding tests it needs to pass.” Although detailed specifications of the watch are not yet available – they will be when th...

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H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 21, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Minimalist Perpetual Calendar in “Smoked Salmon”

First seen in 2021, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar sports watch combines its signature complication and the bestselling integrated-bracelet design. Slated to be produced only during 2024, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon is a reference to Moser’s trademark gradient, or “smoked”, dials. The new perpetual calendar takes stylistic minimalism even further than its predecessor. The Smoked Salmon version does away entirely with any markings on the dial, leaving the gradient dial almost entirely unadorned. Initial thoughts The new perpetual is typical Moser in both style and function. The colour and name are subtly amusing, reflecting the brand’s frequent use of low-key humour in its products. The “Tutorial” perpetual calendar was more literal but equally tongue-in-cheek. More broadly, “Smoked Salmon” is a clever as it adds another twist to the gradient dials that are now synonymous with Moser, which helps keep the concept fresh, despite it having been iterated numerous times. Salmon aside, the latest Streamliner is a striking watch. Even though Moser has no shortage of minimalist watches, this one stands out for being so stark yet having a full featured perpetual calendar – and even a power reserve. Mechanically, the watch is identical to its predecessors, which is a good thing. The second-generation perpetual calendar inside is smartly constructed but also free of the bugs found in earlier iterations of the movement. The Perpetual Calen...

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Louis Vuitton Feb 20, 2024

Up Close: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Announced a year ago as only a computer-generated rendering, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription finally arrived in tangible form earlier this year with a finished prototype that was exhibited at LVMH Watch Week. At a distance the Tourbillon Souscription is practically indistinguishable from the originals that inspired it. But up close it stands out for the high quality of execution, which in many respects is superior to the originals, as well as the subtle tweaks to the design. The Tourbillon Souscription certainly bodes well for the revival of the brand, though its future will hinge on novel and original creations. Like all future Daniel Roth watches, this was produced by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the Geneva manufacture owned by Louis Vuitton that has vertically integrated itself at a rapid pace in recent years. Initial thoughts I was surprised when I first examined the Tourbillon Souscription prototype. It manages to capture the feel of the originals, but even surpasses them in some aspects, most notably the guilloche dial. It’s worth noting the dial is done in-house by LFT’s recently-acquired guilloche workshop, though the production examples will have a dial made by Voutilainen. This level of quality certainly raises exceptions for future watches from Daniel Roth and the wider LFT stable, which includes Gerald Genta. Amongst the other visible upgrades are the decoration on the base plate visible below the tourbillon. This reflects the new calibre within that...

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Farer Feb 19, 2024

Sinn Introduces the 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph

Sinn recently revealed its new offerings for the year, which included a retro take on of its signature pilot’s chronograph. The 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph features a matte black dial with a classic three-register layout highlighted by red accents, a design inspired by the 103 C from the 1970s. Significantly, the new 103 is powered by a manual-wind movement, the first time in two decades Sinn is launching a hand-wind chronograph. Initial thoughts  This appeal of this release lies in the elegantly vintage design, notably the classic three-register layout and 1970s details like the “roulette” register. The contrast between the black and red elements is especially attractive. Notably, unlike many scaled-up vintage remakes, here the retro styling is presented in almost the same size. The new 103 is 41 mm and almost 15 mm high, which sticks close to the dimensions of the original. Priced at US$2,870, the new 103 is affordable. However, the Sellita movement inside can also be found in retro-inspired chronographs from micro-brands like Farer for a quarter less. Although Sinn has actual aviation-instrument history, while most other brands in this price segment don’t, the price still feels high. Sinn should have done more with the movement, or some other substantive upgrades, in order to justify the price. Nevertheless, true-blue Sinn enthusiasts would value this launch, since Sinn doesn’t do too many vintage remakes. Manual wind and vintage flair The 103 is a pilot’s chr...

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Tudor Discreetly Drops Black Bay Feb 19, 2024

Tudor Discreetly Drops Black Bay Ceramic Formula 1 Special Edition

Having just announced its first-ever Formula 1 sponsorship, Tudor also quietly revealed a Black Bay Ceramic for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One (VCARB) racing team. As with the standard model, the case is black ceramic, but instead of the usual black, the dial is in a striking blue that matches the livery of the team’s car (and the Visa logo). Like almost all of its special edition watches, the new Black Bay Ceramic is not for public sale but instead meant for members of VCARB team. The brand hasn’t released any official statement regarding the watch, and all that is known for now are two portraits of VCARB driver Daniel Ricciardo wearing it. The VCARB car for the 2024 season. Image – Visa Cash App RB Initial thoughts Tudor has grown imaginative and adventurous in its products and marketing in recent years, especially compared to a decade ago, which stands in contrast to its still conservative sister brand Rolex. In that regard, Tudor has become something of a platform for the Rolex group to experiment with new ideas and concepts, which was what Rolex once was decades ago, before it became the world’s biggest and most valuable watchmaker. Daniel Ricciardo. Image – Visa Cash App RB Tudor has been particularly active in collaborations with notable organisations, ranging from elite military units to America’s Cup competitors. Each collaboration, in turn, results in a watch. Even though Tudor has made a good number of collaborative special edition watches to date...

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Tissot PRX Digital However Feb 16, 2024

The Retro Digital Casiotron Makes a Comeback

Half a century ago, Casio unveiled the Casiotron QW02, the brand’s very first digital watch. Showing the time, month, date, and day of the week – with the calendar being “perpetual” – the Casiotron was a landmark and the ancestor of the G-Shock, one of the bestselling watches of all time. Now it has been revived Casiotron “50th Anniversary”, a limited edition that preserves the looks of the dinky original but enhanced with modern build quality and technology, including a solar-powered movement with smartphone connectivity. It is essentially a cutting-edge electronic watch in vintage dress. Initial thoughts As a Casio fan, I recognise the importance of the Casiotron, even though it is an inexpensive watch. It established the benchmark for digital electronic watches with its clean display and multi-functionality. Casio got it right by resurrecting this iconic retro design with contemporary upgrades, particularly since the 1970s styling harmonises with current preferences for integrated bracelets. The remake wisely retains the original design, right down to the fluted inner flange and applied logo. But the electronics are entirely 21st century, with the movement featuring the same solar-power module found in many modern-day Casio and G-Shock models. The Casiotron remake costs US$500, affordable in itself but pricier than Casio’s own digital offerings and also a fifth more expensive than the Tissot PRX Digital. However, the premium is justified simply because...

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Breitling Collaborates Feb 16, 2024

Breitling Collaborates with Victoria Beckham on the Compact Chronomat 36

Breitling has just launched the Chronomat 36 Victoria Beckham, a limited-edition variant of its 36 mm sports watch that was conceived together with footballer David Beckham’s wife. The Victoria Beckham edition is essentially the standard model with new dials that feature the “VB” logo as the second hand counterweight, and also engraved on the case back and clasp. Notably, the model range includes a (very) pricey yellow gold model, a first for the current Chronomat. Initial Thoughts Breitling relaunched the Chronomat with the retro Rouleaux bracelet, giving it something of an integrated bracelet design. Though the fad for such sports has faded, but the Chronomat remains an attractive option among its competitors, particularly the chronograph version with the in-house B01 movement. The Victoria Beckham edition doesn’t change much of the standard model, other than dial colours and the use of yellow gold. Rather than a watch catered to enthusiasts, it is clearly is more of an effort to enlarge Breitling’s audience, which is clearly mostly male and oriented towards larger watches. This new launch instead tries to target fashion-forward women and Victoria Beckham fans. That said, it does look quite stunning in yellow gold, especially with the peppermint dial. Granted, all iterations would look better without the Victoria Beckham logo, which are fortunately subtle for the most part, but the emblems are a necessary evil in a collaboration. The steels versions start at US...

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Louis Vuitton all Feb 15, 2024

Dior Revives the Chiffre Rouge Chronograph

In the midst of a resurgence that makes it both one of the biggest and fastest growing luxury brands, Dior nonetheless has a barely-there presence in the watch segment – particularly in mechanical watches – despite having offered watches since 1975. This contrasts with its peers like Chanel, Hermes, and Louis Vuitton, all of which have invested significant resources into making serious watches, particularly compilations and métiers d’art offerings. Now Dior is embarking on an overhaul of its mechanical watch offerings by returning to the Chiffre Rouge, a model first unveiled in 2004 that was distinguished by an asymmetrical case accentuated by a red crown or pusher at four. More streamlined and almost monochromatic, the Chiffre Rouge Black Ultra-Matte Chronograph has a black-coated, 41 mm case containing the Zenith El Primero movement. Initial thoughts The Chiffre Rouge stood out as a memorable design model from the 2000s, although its mechanics were rarely serious. The earlier chronograph models, for instance, relied on either ETA or quartz movements. Dior also never made a real effort to upgrade the model, so it was mostly perceived as a “fashion” watch. The redesign gives the Chiffre Rouge more appeal, as it retains the original, distinctive styling but with a definitely superior movement. That said, I would have done away with the date window at four for a clean geometric-patterned dial. The key feature of the new chronograph is the Zenith El Primero, which ...

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Omega movements I was inspired.” Feb 14, 2024

A Master Gunsmith Makes a Watch by Hand

Based in Pennsylvania, Dewey Vicknair is a respected gunsmith who specialises in restoring rifles and shotguns, and has been doing so for decades, gaining an esteemed reputation in the process. Now in his mid-fifties, he is also a self-taught watchmaker who has been performing watch servicing on the side. Recently Mr Vicknair made the leap from fixing watches to making one. Mr Vicknair explained the genesis of his first watch: “When I saw your stories about Atelier de Chronometrie and what they do with vintage Omega movements, I was inspired.” His inaugural creation is a hand-wound wristwatch of his own making, literally. Although the movement started out as a 1950s Omega cal. 266, Mr Vicknair reworked majority of it and made many parts from scratch, including the going train bridge, as he did for the case, dial, and even the gasket for the crown tube. Because he made most of the parts himself, Mr Vicknair had to fabricate the equipment required to make the parts, including a cutter for the gasket and a screw holder for black polishing. He even did the silver plating of the movement parts himself. It is an unexpected accomplishment for a first-time watchmaker. Initial thoughts Ordinarily I would be sceptical of an unknown watchmaker seeking publicity for a new project with a five-figure price tag. But a few things changed my mind. One was seeing Mr Vicknair’s unusually thorough documentation of his production process, which is almost entirely manual – even the mach...

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