SJX Watches · Page 45

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Roger Dubuis Turns Dec 13, 2023

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

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Breitling Acquires Universal Genève Breitling Dec 12, 2023

Breaking News: Breitling Acquires Universal Genève

Breitling has just announced the acquisition of Universal Genève, a once-storied brand famous for its Polerouter and Compax chronographs but that was dormant for years. Breitling will pay CHF60 million for the brand, but in tranches with CHF20 million upfront and the balance over the next five years. The acquisition marks the first step in chief executive Georges Kern’s ambitions of building a watchmaking group, which will presumably go public. According to Mr Kern, Universal will be revived by a new team and run independently of Breitling, though it is almost a certainty Breitling will bestow upon its sister company some of its in-house movement know-how. A sleeping beauty Since 1989, Universal Genève has been owned Stelux, a Hong Kong watchmaking group focused on the affordable end of the market. The company’s primary business is the lucrative distribution of Seiko in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, while its City Chain stores specialised in low-priced watches. Stelux owns a handful of other Swiss brands, including Solvil et Titus and Catena, none of which are premium brands as Universal might possibly be. Although Universal attempted several halfhearted comebacks, particularly in the 1990s, the brand has gone nowhere for some time, making it a relatively easy turnaround given the starting point. Commenting in the takeover announcement, Breitling chief executive Georges Kern says, “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor-it is a meti...

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Audemars Piguet cal 4401/4409 Dec 12, 2023

Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph

With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Dec 11, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon”

In keeping with its tradition of special editions for the Chinese Lunar New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon” to celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon that begins in early 2024. A limited edition that’s made-to-order, the Reverso “Dragon” maintains the timeless, double-sided design, but with a black grand feu enamel dial and a hand-engraved case back portraying a Chinese dragon. Initial thoughts Commemorative Lunar New Year editions are not new for Jaeger-LeCoultre, as the brand produced an equivalent edition last year. However, the formal works: combining enamel and engraving results in a more elaborate design compared to the typical Reverso while still retaining the elegance and character of the model. The watch showcases a captivating motif on its back. On closer inspection, intricate details come to the fore, with the dragon depicted in low relief against a fired enamel background. Although almost monochromatic, it is undeniably vivid. Just like last year’s Tiger edition, the Reverso “Dragon” is made-to-order and is priced at US$107,000 before taxes. It comes in slightly higher than the previous Reverso models featuring similar artwork. It is expensive for what it is, despite the evident artistry of the decoration, particularly since Jaeger-LeCoultre is historically a brand associated with more affordable watches. A lavish depiction of a Chinese dragon The Reverso “Dragon” depicts a dragon in the clouds against a ...

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Dec 8, 2023

SJX Podcast Episode 1: A Conversation with Collectors in Dubai

Welcome to the inaugural episode of the SJX Podcast, which will be all about in-depth conversations with people from the heart of the industry, discussing the topics that matter. Our first episode is about collecting: during Dubai Watch Week, we sat down with Adel Al Rahmani, the founder of Dubai Watch Club, and Syed Hamed Hosseini, a collector based in Dubai. Both take extremely different approaches when it comes to their pursuit of watches, and listening to them talk about the reasoning behind each is not only fascinating, but sheds light on collectors’ perspectives. The conversation includes hot topics like what it’s like trying to buy from certain brands when you’re not at the top of the “list” and even the safety of wearing recognisable timepieces in European cities. We hope you enjoy the half hour conversation.  

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Bulgari s Aluminium Chronograph Gets Dec 7, 2023

Bulgari’s Aluminium Chronograph Gets a Gran Turismo Makeover

Bulgari recently joined forces with the publisher of Gran Turismo, the bestselling video game known for its realistic portrayal of motor racing, in a pop-culture collaboration that diverges from its past partnerships with artists or architects. The result is the Bulgari Aluminium x Gran Turismo Special Edition that’s based on the brand’s signature rubber-and-aluminium chronograph. And alongside the watches, the collaboration has also spawned the Bulgari Aluminium Vision GT concept car, which is fully playable in the game.  Initial thoughts  Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Creative Director, has made known his admiration for Japanese arts and culture. This inclination is evident in the brand’s Octo Finissimo collaborations, several of which were collaboration with notable creative personalities from Japan, including architect Tadao Ando. So it’s not a surprise that he has extended the exploration of Japanese culture by calling on the Sony division that created one of the world’s bestselling video game franchises. Bulgari’s creative director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani with Japanese gaming designer and Gran Turismo creator Kazunori Yamauchi. Image – Bulgari The choice of the Aluminium collection as the platform for the special edition is logical, given the sporty nature of the model and the use of aluminium in motor racing. Though the two models retain the same case and bracelet as the standard version, the distinctive feature lies in their racin...

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Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

Book Review: ‘The Polerouter’, a Universal Genève Odyssey

The Polerouter. By Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi. Time Honoured Ltd. £225. A timepiece intertwined with the allure of pioneering trans-polar flights flown by Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), the Universal Genève Polerouter is a symbol of 1950s glamour and adventure. Ardent Polerouter enthusiasts Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi embarked on a collaborative journey four years ago on comprehensive book dedicated to the iconic watch, aptly titled The Polerouter. The book delves into the fascinating world of the Polerouter, a timepiece fondly regarded by many in the world of vintage watches. This is demonstrated in the forewords written by individuals like John Goldberger, author and collector; Virginie Liatard-Roessli, watch specialist at Phillips; and Alessandro Fanciulli, a well-known social media figure and dealer better known as “Mr A”.  The authors themselves, however, are scholars but amateurs – Mr Willis is a mathematician while Mr Mazzucchi is a nautical interior designer. The narrative unfolds across various chapters, each dedicated to a specific model, highlighting key milestones in the Polerouter’s evolution. Across almost 400 pages, the authors meticulously document each model’s distinct characteristics, from the SAS Polarouter to the Polerouter Sub. The information unfolds chronologically, beginning with the SAS Polarouter and systematically exploring each Polerouter model. Notably, the book intentionally omits esoteric models such as the P...

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Grand Seiko Dec 5, 2023

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen”

Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the  Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...

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Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Amongst Dec 4, 2023

One-of-a-kind Tourbillons from Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers

Amongst the latest Les Cabinotiers collection from Vacheron Constantin, titled Récits de Voyages, is a group of complicated watches which stand out. All feature a tourbillon, but decorated and elaborated upon in different ways for striking diverse results. The collection includes a pair of Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillons, “Tribute to Arabesque” ref. 6650C and “Tribute to Art Deco” ref. 6520C. Alongside these we have two tourbillons in contrasting styles, the Armillary Tourbillon “Tribute to Art Deco Style” ref. 9860C and Malte Tourbillon “Tribute to Haussmannian Style” ref. 30135.  Initial thoughts  All four watches exemplify what Les Cabinotiers is about – one-off watches equipped with the brand’s highest level calibres and decorated by the best artisans. In doing so these watches wonderfully capture aspects of the company’s history from around the world, the defining theme of Récits de Voyages, which translates as “travel stories”. Given the specialty of these watches, they will not be for everyone. With strong, unique designs, these timepieces are not looking to appeal to the mass market, rather they attest to the ability of the craftspeople at Vacheron Constantin.  A personal favourite from this line-up has to be the “Tribute to Art Deco” with its deep-blue wood marquetry dial pairing perfectly with the hand-engraved, pink gold case. While the case is undeniably large, that is unavoidable due to the venerable calibre fitt...

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Breitling Introduces Dec 4, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon

Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...

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Dec 1, 2023

G-Shock Goes Lightweight with the Carbon Edition

G-Shock commemorates the 40th anniversary of its shock-resistant digital timepiece, two new models inspired by the original 1983 design penned by Kikuo Ibe, but in an all-new material for the brand. Made entirely from carbon composite – case and bracelet – the Carbon Edition is significantly lighter than its Full Metal counterparts. Available in shades of marbled purple or classic black, the Carbon Edition weighs just 65 g including the bracelet. Initial thoughts G-Shock successfully evolved its iconic digital timepiece into a fashion accessory with a prominent presence in popular culture. Collaborators that have designed their take on the G-Shock range from artist Takashi Murakami to streetwear label Supreme. And in 2018, the brand introduced the G-Shock Full Metal, a modern take on original G-Shock DW-5000 of 1983 that added an integrated bracelet to the original design. Dozens of Full Metal variants have been introduced in a relatively short span – including an extraordinary all-18k gold version – diminishing the novelty and appeal the concept.  The Carbon Edition is essentially a Full Metal but fortunately not metal, instead it is entirely in carbon composite. Though the use of a carbon composite is not revolutionary, this iteration sets itself apart, both in tactile feel and appearance. Both versions are lightweight, and the purple version is striking. The material does bring with it questions of longevity as carbon composites are not as robust as metal allo...

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Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce Dec 1, 2023

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack”

Rumours of a brown ceramic Royal Oak began circulating several months ago, and the latest launch from Audemars Piguet (AP) has proven them true. However, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” 41 mm is more than a new colour, and instead it’s a 200-piece limited edition collaboration with American Rapper Travis Scott and his streetwear label Cactus Jack. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is interesting for being more than just a change of dial colour, which is usually the route taken for limited editions. While it is based on the standard model, the “Cactus Jack” gets a brown ceramic case as well as typography based on the musician’s handwriting on the dial, along with Cactus Jack’s smiley emblem for the moons. Notably, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is just one part of AP’s collaboration with Mr Scott. Their tie-up also includes a line of clothing, including hoodies, t-shirts, and caps, that will be available on Cactus Jack’s own retail site. Initial thoughts Although the “Cactus Jack” is fundamentally identical to the regular production skeleton perpetual in ceramic, it looks strikingly different because of the case. Typically I am not a fan of brown ceramic, but here the material sets the watch apart instantly. This differentiation is a good thing since there are many, many version of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar – the non-skeleton ceramic model is already available in b...

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Audemars Piguet Nov 29, 2023

Interview: Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week

Having began as a small-scale and mostly regional event in 2015 – I was there and thought it would become important one day – Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has since grown into an expansive horological extravaganza with an international audience. With some 23,000 visitors, a 42% increase over the 2021 event, this year’s DWW is the biggest to date. Sixty-three brands took part, ranging from giants like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Chanel, to independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, and H. Moser & Cie. Some brands even launched all-new products at DWW. MB&F;, for instance, launched its headline creation for the year, the HM11, at the event. As Director General of DWW, Hind Seddiqi is one of the individuals who makes DWW possible. We discussed with her vision for DWW, ranging from its emphasis on independent watchmaking to the future of horological education in the region, which includes a WOSTEP watchmaking academy in Dubai. The interview was edited for length and clarity. The MB&F; HM11, one of the watches launched during DWW SJX: I remember the first Dubai Watch Week was inside the mall. Now it’s a separate setup that’s impressive. And even though it’s grown, I like the fact that you retain all the independents. Hind Seddiqi (HS): [Indpendents are] extremely important and if you enter into the [fair] in the afternoons you will see they’re the ones who are the busiest with customers wanting to meet the watchmakers. SJX: How do the independents relate to...

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Parmigiani Fleurier Nov 29, 2023

Business News: Sincere Opens SHH Concept Store in Kuala Lumpur

Singapore watch retailer Sincere Fine Watches has opened its newest Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) concept store in Pavilion Mall located in Kuala Lumpur prime shopping district. As the biggest of the retailer’s many stores, the new establishment will serve as Sincere’s flagship, not only in Malaysia but throughout Southeast Asia.  Covering 5,000 square feet, this boutique is dedicated to independent watchmaking, as all SHH stores are. Amongst the 17 brands on offer are Greubel Forsey and H. Moser & Cie. Alongside the watches is a private lounge with a bar, and an upscale dining area. The street-front facade with a custom LED screen An further expansion of the SHH concept Established almost two decades ago as a concept store focused on independent watchmaking, SHH is a vital part of Sincere, which was founded in 1954, making it Singapore’s oldest watch retailer. In 2020, fellow retailer Cortina Holdings acquired Sincere and revived the SHH concept, rolling it out in other markets including Taiwan and Thailand. The store is set to offer timepieces from 17 mostly independent brands, including Parmigiani Fleurier and Ferdinand Berthoud. The offer, however, is diverse, ranging from the classical to the extravagantly modern with Jacob & Co. And limited editions crafted specifically for SHH Kuala Lumpur will be released in due time, as was the case with its boutique at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands. The boutique’s interiors are embellished in gold and copper tones to e...

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Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Nov 28, 2023

Historical Landmarks in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places”

In the Les Cabinotiers collection for 2023, titled “Récits de Voyages”, Vacheron Constantin draws inspiration from its historical international expansion for Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places” – a quartet of unique timepieces, each featuring a micro-sculpted gold dials inspired by significant architectural landmarks in cities across Asia as well as Vacheron Constantin’s home of Geneva. Initial thoughts As a collection, Les Cabinotiers embodies the quintessence of haute horlogerie, placing a distinct focus on crafting highly decorated timepieces for those who exclusively pursue the highest standards in watchmaking and artisanal craftsmanship. Though these unique creations are not entirely novel – Blancpain debuted a series of similar watches several years ago – it is truly delightful to witness the brand consistently surpass conventional expectations and create wearable works of art for the wrist. Among the four timepieces, a standout is the model featuring the entrance gate to Angkor Thom in Cambodia. The brand’s engravers have meticulously replicated every detail, capturing the foliage and serene visages of the past rulers of the Khmer Empire atop the temple. This intricate work is accomplished through hand engraving in various shades of gold.  The choices of landmarks – namely two in China, one in Cambodia – no doubt reflect the brand’s client base. While it could be seen as a little incongruous to feature Geneva among these Asian wonders, it st...

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Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon Nov 28, 2023

Intricately Nuanced Green in the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon

Christened “Récits de Voyages”, the Les Cabinotiers line-up for 2023 is all about captivating narratives told through unique timepieces, each recounting the historical expansion of the brand across diverse geographies. One of them evokes the mid-19th century when Vacheron Constantin forged its first commercial ties in China, reflecting the profound significance of the country for watchmaking in that era. The Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery “Dragon” pays homage to that historical relationship. This extraordinary timepiece features a grisaille enamel dial in green – the technique almost always relies on greys and blacks instead – that showcases the mythical five-clawed dragon, once the symbol of the Chinese emperor. The artisanal enamel dial is contained within a case fully set baguette-cut diamonds, alongside one of the thinnest self-winding movements ever, the cal. 1120. Initial thoughts The dial of the Les Cabinotiers Dragon showcases the grisaille technique that offers a distinct, high contrast and a clear focus on the mythical subject. Departing from the conventional grisaille approach of a monochromatic palette of greys, Vacheron Constantin opted for a unique twist by employing shaded green enamel to depict the majestic dragon. The colour manages to give the dragon more life than compared to a traditional black-and-grey grisaille dial, while still retaining the discreet elegance that is characteristic of the technique. The result is remarkable and...

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Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges Nov 27, 2023

The Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges in Aston Martin Racing Green

Born from the official partnership between Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin, the Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition, facelifts the entry-level mode of the watchmaker’s signature “Bridge” line. Drawing inspiration from the Aston Martin DB12 grand tourer, the new timepiece merges horology and automotive inspiration. Initial thoughts The origin of Girard-Perregaux’s “Bridge” collection is entirely classical, starting in the 19th century with the Three Gold Bridges tourbillon pocket watches that were made in tiny numbers (including one sold to the President of Mexico). The brand has modernised the line in recent years with the Neo Bridges and now adds to the mix a motorsport brand with a rich heritage, which further emphasises the sporty, contemporary nature of the design. The Neo Bridges fully embraces a forward-looking aesthetic, so the Aston Martin connection is natural considering the carmaker’s creations in the super-, hyper-, and concept-car space. Admittedly, the changes to the Aston Martin edition are largely cosmetic, but they are done well. I think this edition offers a more appealing and more functional look than recent editions like the Earth and Sky that had fewer luminous components on the dial. The only aspect of the watch that could be done better is the Aston Martin logo printed on the sapphire case back; I would have prefer a logo discreetly engraved on the rim of the case back. However, the Aston Martin connection brings with it an increase in ...

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Seiko Drops Nov 24, 2023

Seiko Drops a Pair of Retro Automatic Chronographs with the Speedtimer

Having expanded its range of chronographs with a homage to stopwatches and, more recently, new models inspired by the Kinetic Chronograph, Seiko now introduces a pair of vintage-inspired chronographs. The Prospex Speedtimer (SRQ047 and SRQ049) features a distinctively retro style reminiscent of the 1970s and sports a “panda” style dial but with a more compact case than its predecessor.  The “panda” SRQ047 is regular production while the “reverse panda” SRQ049 is a limited edition to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first Seiko wristwatch. Initial thoughts  Since its introduction in 2021, the Speedtimer had quite a significant design flaw – its bulky case, measuring over 15 mm high. Therefore, it’s highly gratifying to learn that the brand has opted to refresh the Speedtimer with a more traditional dial and a slimmer case size. Concerning its design, the new models evoke a sense of familiarity by featuring a more rounded case in contrast to the previous Speedtimer models. Furthermore, the brand has introduced a dash of colour to the “panda” style dial by adding an orange tip to the chronograph hands. The limited edition reverse panda model. However, it’s worth noting that the watch has a date window located between four and five. This feature seems somewhat out of place and could have been omitted for a more streamlined look. The standard production Speedtimer is priced at US$2,500, with an additional US$200 for the limited edition. The new mod...

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Rexhep Rexhepi Maximilian Büsser Nov 24, 2023

If You Missed It: Panel Discussions at Dubai Watch Week 2023

There was plenty to see and do around Dubai Watch Week 2023, which just concluded last weekend. Wandering around the glittering hall with showcases full of new releases, and you might run into Rexhep Rexhepi, Maximilian Büsser, and Kari Voutilainen. Punctuating all of this, however, were the insightful panel discussions that happened over the course of Dubai Watch Week (DWW), which was organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East. Covering a wide array of topics and including speakers from an even wider background, it was possible to dip in and out of these discussions throughout the fair. Luckily, they were all recorded and are now available on the DWW YouTube channel. So if you weren’t able to attend the show, or you found yourself stuck between one booth and the next, you can catch up on them at any time. Inside the exhibition hall of DWW The best session of the fair was undoubtedly the in-depth talk given by talented watchmaker, Stephen McDonnell that we quickly recommended in real time. Mr McDonnell provided incredible detail about his work and philosophy in a talk that summarised his horological mind. But we wanted to give some more highlights from across the programme beyond Mr McDonnell, as there is plenty to dig in to. Stephen McDonnell at DWW The first talk of the show focused on a hot button topic, the role of retailers and the allocation of popular watches. Moderated by British journalist Robin Swithinbank, it featured Moh...

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Longines New Legend Diver Nov 23, 2023

Longines’ New Legend Diver in the Old Size

Recognised by its distinctive dual crowns and an internal rotating bezel, the Longines Legend Diver pays homage to history while embracing modern enhancements. Already a mainstay of Longines’ reissue sports watches, the Legend Diver has undergone a transformation and now features a redesigned and smaller 39 mm case that faithfully echoes the original (while it predecessor was 41 mm). Initial thoughts The new Legend Diver carefully retains the vintage styling of its predecessor. Traditionalists will appreciate the absence of the date that was found on the prior version. The absent dial preserves the dial’s clean and uncluttered aesthetic. But the new Legend Diver is not just a remake. Inside is the cal. 888.6, an upgraded ETA calibre that stands out with a 72-hour power reserve and magnetic resistance that exceeds the ISO 764 standard by ten times thanks to a silicon hairspring. And the dial similarly retains the design of the vintage original, but is executed in a modern manner with two colours of Super-Luminova, green and blue. This not only adds a touch of excellence to the design but also enhances readability in low-light conditions. On its face, the downsizing to 39 mm may not align with the conventions of a tool watch, especially one conceived for diving. However, this shift in size caters better to daily wear and better reproduces the original’s dimensions. Unfortunately, the reduction in diameter doesn’t go hand in hand with a decrease in thickness, so the ...

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Hublot MP-15 Hublot unveiled Nov 22, 2023

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15

Hublot unveiled its fourth collaboration with the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. Demonstrating Hublot’s mastery sapphire crystal cases, the watch is the brand’s first central tourbillon in regular production. The MP-15 is a fusion of artistic expression and watchmaking, that pushes the boundaries of mechanics and design, with the nudging of Mr Murakami, who previously designed a pair of simpler watches for Hublot. Initial thoughts The MP-15 is an entirely new watch, from case to movement, that was constructed to embody  Mr Murakami’s signature style. It takes a fresh and playful direction away from the relatively tamer previous editions that were based on an existing model. First seen with the unique example produced for Only Watch, the latest collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami seamlessly combines Mr Murakami’s artistic vision with Hublot’s watchmaking proficiency, resulting in a unique and expressive watch.  Notably, the MP-15 is not as big as expected. It’s 42 mm in diameter but has no lugs, while the strap is narrow, making it suitable for both men and women. The Only Watch edition The MP-15 is more than a watch; it’s arguably wearable art. The retail price of US$316,000 certainly puts it closer to Mr Murakami’s creations than a wristwatch, even with the tourbillon. It is a very expensive wristwatch, but not so expensive relative to Mr Murakami’s art. Though this is a relatively lar...

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Cartier Explores Middle Eastern Influences Nov 21, 2023

Exhibition: Cartier Explores Middle Eastern Influences in Abu Dhabi

Focusing on the intersection of design and Islamic culture, Cartier, Islamic Inspiration and Modern Design has just opened at the Louvre Abu Dhabi. On show till March 2024, the exhibition underscores the significant influence of Islamic arts and culture on the design evolution of Cartier’s jewellery and objet d’art. The exhibition chronicles how Louis Cartier, the grandson of the brand’s founder, cultivated an interest in Islamic art in the 1910s. He enhanced the maison’s library and established a collection, providing likely inspiration for its designers in crafting Orientalist-style jewellery. Following this, Jacques Cartier, Louis’s brother, brought an added dimension into the mix by incorporating South Asian and Arabian styles and arts after his journeys to meet the brand’s esteemed clientele in those regions.  Jacques Cartier in the Middle East. Image – Cartier. To shape this narrative, the exhibition’s curators, Evelyne Possémé and Judith Henon, traced Cartier’s creative design process by showcasing the various influences and styles that inspired its creation. The exhibition displays over 400 artworks from Louvre Abu Dhabi, Paris museums such as the Musée du Louvre and Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and various public and private collections. It also includes various drawings, photographs, and other materials from the brand’s own collection. Prominent features of the exhibition include a stepped merlon showcasing floral motifs from Iran, dating ...

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Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref 30020 Nov 21, 2023

Fascinating and Landmark Complications at Christie’s Hong Kong

After seeing the fascinating timepieces made by independent watchmakers and the artistic highlights, let us now direct your attention to the notable complications in the Christie’s sales that take place on November 26.  In this compilation, we scrutinise nine noteworthy lots. Some items, like the Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar ref. 5516 and the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, stand out with their six-figure price tags, while others might escape attention but are still deserving of a mention. Examples include the contemporary Omega De Ville Central Tourbillon or a distinctive version of Montblanc’s 1858 Split-Seconds crafted for the Only Watch charity auction. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begin at 1 pm on November 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the second session (lots 2501-2639) offering watches from the OAK Collection at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lot 2223: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref. 30020 in platinum  The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar pays homage to the revered vintage reference 4261, capturing the essence of one of Vacheron Constantin’s most sought-after timepieces among collectors. Manufactured in 200 examples across two configurations, one with a traditional dial, as seen here, and the other skeletonised, the watch stands out as a coveted item in the current collectors’ market. Notably, only 77 examples, inc...

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Longines Nov 20, 2023

Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster

Seiko has remade its high-end dive watch with a new, slimmer movement and consequently more compact watch. Still known as the Prospex Marinemaster, the new model is available in three variants (SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101), all sharing a design heavily influenced by the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the “62MAS” from 1965. Initial thoughts Marinemaster models long been solid but chunky watches, with examples including the Hi-Beat 36,000 limited edition or the forest green model from 2021. A more compact iteration enhances its appeal, especially with the recent popularity of smaller, vintage-inspired dive watches. The “62MAS” model from 1965. Image – Seiko The design still echoes the original 62MAS, particularly in the dial and bezel layout. However, the new model, especially the light blue variant, gains a more contemporary feel with the horizontally striped dial along and the engraved markings on the bezel. The patterned dial easily brings to mind other sports watches, so it does seem a bit derivative, but Seiko’s position as a maker of dive watches is strong enough that this still looks and feels like a Seiko. The latest Marinemaster is priced at US$2,800, reflecting Seiko’s gradual upmarket move over recent years. This places it squarely within the mid-tier dive watch segment also occupied by brands such as such as Doxa or Longines. While it remains a compelling option at this price, it is no longer such a clear value proposition relative to the competit...

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Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication both Nov 20, 2023

An Eye on Complicated Watches at Phillips Hong Kong

Our favourite segments in Phillips’ Hong Kong sale on November 24 and 25 are artisanal and form watches, independents of course, and now complications. We round up a selection of nine notable complicated watches, including two special-order Patek Philippe masterpieces, a ref. 3974P with Breguet numerals and a ref. 5004P Michael Ovitz special. The list also includes vintage complications, like the well-preserved Rolex ref. 6062 yellow gold “Stelline”. And also some big value buys in a literal sense: the 48 mm Panerai PAM00350 “Lo Scienzato” skeleton tourbillon and the 44 mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication, both estimated at a fraction of their retail price. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 839: Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica “Lo Scienziato” PAM00350 Panerai paid tribute to astronomer Galileo Galilei in 2010 with the PAM00350 “Lo Scienziato”, one of the most complicated watches made by the brand.  It was a Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramic powered by the in-house cal. P.2005/S – a skeletonised movement executed in a distinctly modern style with the base plate and brides open worked in a grid and finished entirely in matte black. The aesthetics of the P.2005/S movement make the PAM00350 arguably one of the few Panerai models that successfully blended a thoroughly contemporary aesthetic with the historical Pa...

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MB&F; Nov 20, 2023

Recommended: Stephen McDonnell on Inventing and Innovation

Highly regarded by his peers, Stephen McDonnell is a horological engineer best known for his work with MB&F;, where he devised the LM Perpetual EVO and LM Sequential EVO double chronograph. Mr McDonnell’s twin inventions for MB&F; reflect the ingenuity of his approach. Mr McDonnell delivered one of the most fascinating and enlightening lectures of Dubai Watch Week 2023, where he explained his process, methods, and philosophy in a heartfelt and sincere talk. It’s recommended watching for anyone interested in mechanical creativity and the people behind it.  

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Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” Nov 19, 2023

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong

Having explored the best of independent watchmaking, we now pivot to the artisanal masterpieces at Christie’s Hong Kong sale on November 26, ranging from a 1950s cloisonné Omega by Nelly Richard to a Patek Philippe Dome Clock. Amongst the more esoteric is the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”, the quartet of timepieces each featuring a miniature sculpture replicating tribal masks in Geneva’s Barbier-Mueller Museum.  The auction on November 26 is made up of two parts, starting with Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) at 1 pm  – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lots 2224-2227: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” set One of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Metiers d’Art creations, “Les Masques” is a literal description of the watches – each contains a miniature sculpture that deftly reproduces tribal masks from around the world that are part of the primitive art collection in the renowned Barbier-Mueller Museum. Each of the three years from 2007 to 2009 saw the launch of a “Les Masques” set made up of four watches, with each watch representing one of the four continents of Asia, Oceania, Africa, and the Americas. This present set is from 2009 and depicts masks from Gabon, Mexico, Indonesia, and China.  The masks were micro-sculptures of 18k gold that were intricately engraved and coloured by hand, and then...

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H. Moser & Cie.’s Sports Watch Nov 18, 2023

H. Moser & Cie.’s Sports Watch Gets a Fired Enamel Dial

Alongside its compatriots MB&F; and Ressence, H. Moser & Cie. is utilising Dubai Watch Week to debut a new model, the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, which is also the premiere of the all-new HMC 500 movement with a micro-rotor. The first Streamliner to sport a grand feu enamel dial, the new Small Seconds retains the model’s familiar styling but with recognisably different proportions with a smaller and thinner case. Initial thoughts While it is thiner and smaller, the new model has a similarly sized dial, giving it a completely different look and feel compared to the centre-seconds model. As a result, the Streamliner Small Seconds has a bit more of a retro feel in terms of proportions. The enamel dial is an interesting twist on the blue dial that’s become the norm for luxury-sports watches, and it is attractive, but a peculiar and somewhat mismatched feature for a sports watch given the relative fragility of enamel compared to a standard brass dial. Over on the back, the view is also attractive as the architecture of the HMC 500 was clearly devised with aesthetics in mind. The movement reveals lots of moving parts and sports high-contrast finishing, giving it an intricate appearance that’s different from past Moser automatic movements. Priced at CHF29,900, the new Streamliner is about 50% pricier than its centre-seconds counterpart. The price increase can be justified by the enamel dial and new movement, though the new watch is pricey enough that the value pr...

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Vacheron Constantin alongside other enamelled works Nov 18, 2023

The Arts and Forms of Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After exploring the independents in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, our attention now turns to watches that focus on unusual aesthetics, namely timepieces defined by complex decoration or unusually shaped cases. Amongst the artisanal selection, here is one of Muriel Sechaud’s avian creations for Vacheron Constantin, alongside other enamelled works from the workshop of Anita Porchet. Muriel Sechaud’s rendition of Audubon’s birds And amongst the form watches is the Patek Philippe ref. 5013R-013, a tonneau-shaped grand complication in pink gold with a black dial, of which only three are known.  The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 859: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060 by Muriel Sechaud Renowned enamelist Muriel Sechaud collaborated with Vacheron Constantin to create a collection inspired by the illustrations of Jean-Jacques Audubon, a French-American artist, naturalist, and ornithologist. Audubon’s work, ‘Birds of America,’ served as the primary inspiration for this collaboration. The Swiss watchmaker, known for its commitment to craftsmanship and artistic expression, commissioned a series of cloisonné enamel dials to reproduce Audubon’s intricate bird illustrations faithfully. This artistic union reflects the fusion of horological expertise with the beauty found in natural history illustration. The current reference...

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Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera Nov 18, 2023

IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph

Just in time for the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix, IWC reveals another rendition of a racing chronograph, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph. Available in two guises either titanium or Ceratanium, the new model retains the familiar visage of the standard Pilot’s Chronograph but with racetrack-inspired tweaks. Initial thoughts IWC has never quite had a bona fide racing chronograph with the gravitas of the Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera. Its past racing timepieces included the little loved and now discontinued Ingenieur and the more successful Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG.  With the success of the Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG with its Tiffany blue-esque colour, it’s unsurprising that another iteration has come along. The new chronograph has a distinctive racing aesthetic despite being a Pilot’s Chronograph, thanks to the tachymeter scale and more pronounced dial markings. The Formula 1 feel is particularly evident in the Ceratanium model that’s distinguished by its predominantly black design embellished with white and mint green accents.  That said, the paradox of a Formula 1-inspired aviator’s watch is hard to understand – the two themes don’t go together at all, although it is an appealing sports watch. IWC is relying on the strength of its bestselling Pilot’s line to build a racing offering, in part due to the Ingenieur’s historical lack of success. The Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team model The model starts at US$9,800 in ...

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