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Patek Philippe timepieces Dec 19, 2023

Tiffany & Co.’s Table Clock Inspired by 1950s New York Taxicab

Now a cultural icon of New York City, Tiffany & Co. has turned to 1950s taxicabs of its home city for its latest tabletop timepiece. The Tiffany Taxi is an eight-day clock in aluminium and steel – in brand’s signature colour naturally. Taking the shape of a typical 1950s American automobile with tail fins, the Tiffany Taxi is both a timekeeper and automaton – it incorporates a time display as well as a V8 engine with moving pistons. And like past Tiffany clocks, it is made by L’Epée 1839, the go-to specialist in Switzerland for high-end clocks. Initial thoughts While primarily known for jewellery watches like its signature Bird on a Rock and double-signed Patek Philippe timepieces, the New York jeweller has recently unveiled a line of table clocks. The Tiffany Taxi is its most elaborate to date. In addition to the time display inside the engine compartment, the Taxi clock also has an “engine”, a mechanism taking the form of a V8 engine with pistons that move when the engine is “started”. Charming as it is, the Tiffany Taxi is a pricey horological novelty, with a retail price of US$50,000. It is, however, an impressive object for the desk that is particularly faithful to Tiffany’s history as a New York City institution. Inspired by midcentury cabs The Tiffany Taxi is modelled on the iconic taxicabs of New York City, in particular the Yellow Cabs made famous the world over by films about the city – but the clock is of course in the familiar Robin egg bl...

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F.P. Journe s manufacture as well Dec 19, 2023

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team

I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.  

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Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists Dec 18, 2023

Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists

The shortlist of five finalists has just been announced for the first ever Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, an award that seeks to recognise and reward notable independent watchmakers. Selected from the 20 semi-finalists by the award’s committee of experts, a line-up of over 40 notables that included Benjamin Clymer of Hodinkee, author Nick Foulkes, Kari Voutilainen, and collector Mike Shanlikian, the five finalist watches and their makers will be judged by a jury of five who will ultimately decide the winner at a meeting on February 6, 2024. The five finalists are: Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Raúl Pagès L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Reference 2941 – Petermann Bédat Chronometre Artisans – Simon Brette And the winner will be selected from these five by the jury of Carole Forstier Kasapi, head of movement development at TAG Heuer; collector and author Auro Montanari; retailer Michael Tay of The Hour Glass; watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi; and our founder Jiaxian Su. These five members were voted into their role by the committee of experts for this role. The eventual winner will receive a year-long mentorship at La Fabrique du Temps in order to further develop his creations, as well as a prize of €150,000. More about the finalists All five of these pieces are deserving of recognition and only go to highlight the vibrant market for independent creations we currently have. One of the...

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Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde ... Dec 18, 2023

Review: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

Unveiled earlier this year as part of its retrograde-theme collection, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is self explanatory: it combines a tourbillon, retrograde date, along with a self-winding movement. And in contrast to many date indications that are almost an afterthought, this presents the date in an elaborate, thoughtful manner. A clear sapphire dial shows off the retrograde mechanism, along with the base plate of the movement that’s been decorated with linear guilloche. And at six o’clock sits the tourbillon, with the cage in the Maltese cross emblem of Vacheron Constantin (VC), secured by a traditional bridge of polished steel. Initial thoughts Classically-styled watches sometimes suffer from the addition of a date display; dates often get in the way of the design or just don’t fit in. The Tourbillon Retrograde Date, in contrast, benefits from it. While the tourbillon might be the headline feature of the watch, and the peripheral winding the most novel, the retrograde date is  the most appealing mechanical detail. Retrograde displays are amongst the most striking dial-side complications because they are composed of parts in varying shapes, which allows them to be both beautiful and intricate when executed correctly, and here the date certainly is. Despite being a simple function in itself, the date is executed well – it is finely constructed and finished. The components of the retrograde display are clearly designe...

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Audemars Piguet Supersonnerie as one Dec 15, 2023

Review: Ulysse Nardin Blast Hourstriker

One of Ulysse Nardin’s more obscure models, the Blast Hourstriker is one of the brand’s most interesting watches from a technical perspective. It’s equipped with an in-house, self-winding tourbillon movement plus a hour-striking mechanism on top. And concealed on the back is an amplification system developed with the help of Devialet, the French maker of high-end speakers that was coincidentally founded by a member of the Nardin family that once controlled the eponymous brand. Initial thoughts The Ulysse Nardin (UN) Hourstriker caught my attention in 2019 when the brand debuted the Hourstriker Phantom, the first model featuring the Devialet amplification system. Comprised of both a novel gong fixture and soundboard, the Devialet system arguably ranks alongside the inventions in the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater ref. 5750P and Audemars Piguet Supersonnerie as one of the most notable striking innovations on the market today. And the backstory of the Devialet system is surprisingly appropriate: one of Devialet’s co-founders is Emmanuel Nardin, an industrial designer who’s a descendant of Ulysse. The Hourstriker Phantom. Image – Ulysse Nardin The Hourstriker Phantom was short-lived and quickly replaced by the Blast Hourstriker. Even though the Blast Hourstriker is a substantially upgraded watch, most enthusiasts are probably unaware of it, probably because it resembles less complicated models in UN’s catalogue. In the Blast Hourstriker, t...

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Dec 14, 2023

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons

Positioned as a creative endeavour rather than a traditional brand, Kollokium debuts with a departure from conventional watchmaking norms, the Projekt 01. Born from the aesthetic sensibilities of its founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium is about unconventional design and raw, unpolished aesthetics. Kollokium is a project-based offering, with each “projekt” iterated into variants but produced in limited numbers. Projekt 01 begins as a “Friends & Family” edition only for insiders, but a publicly available version will soon be launched in early 2024. Initial thoughts The Projekt 01 blends avant-garde design with innovative manufacturing processes, and an affordable price tag. And it also doesn’t take itself too seriously, as evidenced by the case back – something that collectors tired of self-important brands will appreciate. The cast steel case delivers an industrial and robust aesthetic, setting it apart from watches in this price segment. On top is a highly-domed “box” sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that enhances the visual experience. But most intriguing is the three-dimensional pixellated dial made up of with 468 hand-applied cylindrical markers tipped with Super-LumiNova, a surprising degree of craftsmanship given its price. Kollokium’s philosophy is also reflected in the decision to identify the La Joux-Perret G101 movement. Like many watch start-ups, Kollokium is committed to transparency, while being mor...

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Grand Seiko or Tudor Although setting Dec 13, 2023

The Affordable Seiko 5 “Field” Gains a GMT Function

Seiko has expanded its range of (very) reasonably priced sports watches with the Seiko 5 Sports Field Sports Style GMT. Available in stainless steel (SSK023) or black-coated steel (SSK025), it retains the military-inspired aesthetics of its time-only counterparts, while incorporating an additional hour hand showing a second time zone. Initial thoughts  The new models evoke a sense of familiarity with the “field” style dial and 24-hour markers, a longstanding design that’s been part of the Seiko 5 line-up for decades. But now the dial adopts a modern, utilitarian style, departing from the vintage-inspired aesthetic found in the time-only “field” models such as the SRPG35 and SRPJ85. And purists will appreciate the absence day-of-the-week display, with the dial having just the date. The black-on-black SSK025 achieves an almost ideal look for this type of watch. The near-monochromatic aesthetic creates an extremely satisfying contrast with the orange accents that brings to mind a fighter jet cockpit. The SSK025 Beyond the cosmetic changes, the new models are typical of Seiko’s entry-level GMT models. They are more accurately described as dual time zone watches with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than true GMT watches that feature an adjustable local-time hour hand, as seen in pricier watches from Grand Seiko or Tudor. Although setting the time for a second time zone involves a few additional steps, this represents an acceptable compromise consid...

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Roger Dubuis Turns Dec 13, 2023

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

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Breitling Acquires Universal Genève Breitling Dec 12, 2023

Breaking News: Breitling Acquires Universal Genève

Breitling has just announced the acquisition of Universal Genève, a once-storied brand famous for its Polerouter and Compax chronographs but that was dormant for years. Breitling will pay CHF60 million for the brand, but in tranches with CHF20 million upfront and the balance over the next five years. The acquisition marks the first step in chief executive Georges Kern’s ambitions of building a watchmaking group, which will presumably go public. According to Mr Kern, Universal will be revived by a new team and run independently of Breitling, though it is almost a certainty Breitling will bestow upon its sister company some of its in-house movement know-how. A sleeping beauty Since 1989, Universal Genève has been owned Stelux, a Hong Kong watchmaking group focused on the affordable end of the market. The company’s primary business is the lucrative distribution of Seiko in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, while its City Chain stores specialised in low-priced watches. Stelux owns a handful of other Swiss brands, including Solvil et Titus and Catena, none of which are premium brands as Universal might possibly be. Although Universal attempted several halfhearted comebacks, particularly in the 1990s, the brand has gone nowhere for some time, making it a relatively easy turnaround given the starting point. Commenting in the takeover announcement, Breitling chief executive Georges Kern says, “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor-it is a meti...

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Audemars Piguet cal 4401/4409 Dec 12, 2023

Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph

With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Dec 11, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon”

In keeping with its tradition of special editions for the Chinese Lunar New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon” to celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon that begins in early 2024. A limited edition that’s made-to-order, the Reverso “Dragon” maintains the timeless, double-sided design, but with a black grand feu enamel dial and a hand-engraved case back portraying a Chinese dragon. Initial thoughts Commemorative Lunar New Year editions are not new for Jaeger-LeCoultre, as the brand produced an equivalent edition last year. However, the formal works: combining enamel and engraving results in a more elaborate design compared to the typical Reverso while still retaining the elegance and character of the model. The watch showcases a captivating motif on its back. On closer inspection, intricate details come to the fore, with the dragon depicted in low relief against a fired enamel background. Although almost monochromatic, it is undeniably vivid. Just like last year’s Tiger edition, the Reverso “Dragon” is made-to-order and is priced at US$107,000 before taxes. It comes in slightly higher than the previous Reverso models featuring similar artwork. It is expensive for what it is, despite the evident artistry of the decoration, particularly since Jaeger-LeCoultre is historically a brand associated with more affordable watches. A lavish depiction of a Chinese dragon The Reverso “Dragon” depicts a dragon in the clouds against a ...

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Dec 8, 2023

SJX Podcast Episode 1: A Conversation with Collectors in Dubai

Welcome to the inaugural episode of the SJX Podcast, which will be all about in-depth conversations with people from the heart of the industry, discussing the topics that matter. Our first episode is about collecting: during Dubai Watch Week, we sat down with Adel Al Rahmani, the founder of Dubai Watch Club, and Syed Hamed Hosseini, a collector based in Dubai. Both take extremely different approaches when it comes to their pursuit of watches, and listening to them talk about the reasoning behind each is not only fascinating, but sheds light on collectors’ perspectives. The conversation includes hot topics like what it’s like trying to buy from certain brands when you’re not at the top of the “list” and even the safety of wearing recognisable timepieces in European cities. We hope you enjoy the half hour conversation.  

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Bulgari s Aluminium Chronograph Gets Dec 7, 2023

Bulgari’s Aluminium Chronograph Gets a Gran Turismo Makeover

Bulgari recently joined forces with the publisher of Gran Turismo, the bestselling video game known for its realistic portrayal of motor racing, in a pop-culture collaboration that diverges from its past partnerships with artists or architects. The result is the Bulgari Aluminium x Gran Turismo Special Edition that’s based on the brand’s signature rubber-and-aluminium chronograph. And alongside the watches, the collaboration has also spawned the Bulgari Aluminium Vision GT concept car, which is fully playable in the game.  Initial thoughts  Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Creative Director, has made known his admiration for Japanese arts and culture. This inclination is evident in the brand’s Octo Finissimo collaborations, several of which were collaboration with notable creative personalities from Japan, including architect Tadao Ando. So it’s not a surprise that he has extended the exploration of Japanese culture by calling on the Sony division that created one of the world’s bestselling video game franchises. Bulgari’s creative director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani with Japanese gaming designer and Gran Turismo creator Kazunori Yamauchi. Image – Bulgari The choice of the Aluminium collection as the platform for the special edition is logical, given the sporty nature of the model and the use of aluminium in motor racing. Though the two models retain the same case and bracelet as the standard version, the distinctive feature lies in their racin...

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Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

Book Review: ‘The Polerouter’, a Universal Genève Odyssey

The Polerouter. By Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi. Time Honoured Ltd. £225. A timepiece intertwined with the allure of pioneering trans-polar flights flown by Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), the Universal Genève Polerouter is a symbol of 1950s glamour and adventure. Ardent Polerouter enthusiasts Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi embarked on a collaborative journey four years ago on comprehensive book dedicated to the iconic watch, aptly titled The Polerouter. The book delves into the fascinating world of the Polerouter, a timepiece fondly regarded by many in the world of vintage watches. This is demonstrated in the forewords written by individuals like John Goldberger, author and collector; Virginie Liatard-Roessli, watch specialist at Phillips; and Alessandro Fanciulli, a well-known social media figure and dealer better known as “Mr A”.  The authors themselves, however, are scholars but amateurs – Mr Willis is a mathematician while Mr Mazzucchi is a nautical interior designer. The narrative unfolds across various chapters, each dedicated to a specific model, highlighting key milestones in the Polerouter’s evolution. Across almost 400 pages, the authors meticulously document each model’s distinct characteristics, from the SAS Polarouter to the Polerouter Sub. The information unfolds chronologically, beginning with the SAS Polarouter and systematically exploring each Polerouter model. Notably, the book intentionally omits esoteric models such as the P...

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Grand Seiko Dec 5, 2023

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen”

Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the  Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...

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Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Amongst Dec 4, 2023

One-of-a-kind Tourbillons from Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers

Amongst the latest Les Cabinotiers collection from Vacheron Constantin, titled Récits de Voyages, is a group of complicated watches which stand out. All feature a tourbillon, but decorated and elaborated upon in different ways for striking diverse results. The collection includes a pair of Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillons, “Tribute to Arabesque” ref. 6650C and “Tribute to Art Deco” ref. 6520C. Alongside these we have two tourbillons in contrasting styles, the Armillary Tourbillon “Tribute to Art Deco Style” ref. 9860C and Malte Tourbillon “Tribute to Haussmannian Style” ref. 30135.  Initial thoughts  All four watches exemplify what Les Cabinotiers is about – one-off watches equipped with the brand’s highest level calibres and decorated by the best artisans. In doing so these watches wonderfully capture aspects of the company’s history from around the world, the defining theme of Récits de Voyages, which translates as “travel stories”. Given the specialty of these watches, they will not be for everyone. With strong, unique designs, these timepieces are not looking to appeal to the mass market, rather they attest to the ability of the craftspeople at Vacheron Constantin.  A personal favourite from this line-up has to be the “Tribute to Art Deco” with its deep-blue wood marquetry dial pairing perfectly with the hand-engraved, pink gold case. While the case is undeniably large, that is unavoidable due to the venerable calibre fitt...

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Breitling Introduces Dec 4, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon

Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...

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Dec 1, 2023

G-Shock Goes Lightweight with the Carbon Edition

G-Shock commemorates the 40th anniversary of its shock-resistant digital timepiece, two new models inspired by the original 1983 design penned by Kikuo Ibe, but in an all-new material for the brand. Made entirely from carbon composite – case and bracelet – the Carbon Edition is significantly lighter than its Full Metal counterparts. Available in shades of marbled purple or classic black, the Carbon Edition weighs just 65 g including the bracelet. Initial thoughts G-Shock successfully evolved its iconic digital timepiece into a fashion accessory with a prominent presence in popular culture. Collaborators that have designed their take on the G-Shock range from artist Takashi Murakami to streetwear label Supreme. And in 2018, the brand introduced the G-Shock Full Metal, a modern take on original G-Shock DW-5000 of 1983 that added an integrated bracelet to the original design. Dozens of Full Metal variants have been introduced in a relatively short span – including an extraordinary all-18k gold version – diminishing the novelty and appeal the concept.  The Carbon Edition is essentially a Full Metal but fortunately not metal, instead it is entirely in carbon composite. Though the use of a carbon composite is not revolutionary, this iteration sets itself apart, both in tactile feel and appearance. Both versions are lightweight, and the purple version is striking. The material does bring with it questions of longevity as carbon composites are not as robust as metal allo...

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Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce Dec 1, 2023

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack”

Rumours of a brown ceramic Royal Oak began circulating several months ago, and the latest launch from Audemars Piguet (AP) has proven them true. However, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” 41 mm is more than a new colour, and instead it’s a 200-piece limited edition collaboration with American Rapper Travis Scott and his streetwear label Cactus Jack. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is interesting for being more than just a change of dial colour, which is usually the route taken for limited editions. While it is based on the standard model, the “Cactus Jack” gets a brown ceramic case as well as typography based on the musician’s handwriting on the dial, along with Cactus Jack’s smiley emblem for the moons. Notably, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is just one part of AP’s collaboration with Mr Scott. Their tie-up also includes a line of clothing, including hoodies, t-shirts, and caps, that will be available on Cactus Jack’s own retail site. Initial thoughts Although the “Cactus Jack” is fundamentally identical to the regular production skeleton perpetual in ceramic, it looks strikingly different because of the case. Typically I am not a fan of brown ceramic, but here the material sets the watch apart instantly. This differentiation is a good thing since there are many, many version of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar – the non-skeleton ceramic model is already available in b...

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Audemars Piguet Nov 29, 2023

Interview: Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week

Having began as a small-scale and mostly regional event in 2015 – I was there and thought it would become important one day – Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has since grown into an expansive horological extravaganza with an international audience. With some 23,000 visitors, a 42% increase over the 2021 event, this year’s DWW is the biggest to date. Sixty-three brands took part, ranging from giants like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Chanel, to independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, and H. Moser & Cie. Some brands even launched all-new products at DWW. MB&F;, for instance, launched its headline creation for the year, the HM11, at the event. As Director General of DWW, Hind Seddiqi is one of the individuals who makes DWW possible. We discussed with her vision for DWW, ranging from its emphasis on independent watchmaking to the future of horological education in the region, which includes a WOSTEP watchmaking academy in Dubai. The interview was edited for length and clarity. The MB&F; HM11, one of the watches launched during DWW SJX: I remember the first Dubai Watch Week was inside the mall. Now it’s a separate setup that’s impressive. And even though it’s grown, I like the fact that you retain all the independents. Hind Seddiqi (HS): [Indpendents are] extremely important and if you enter into the [fair] in the afternoons you will see they’re the ones who are the busiest with customers wanting to meet the watchmakers. SJX: How do the independents relate to...

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Parmigiani Fleurier Nov 29, 2023

Business News: Sincere Opens SHH Concept Store in Kuala Lumpur

Singapore watch retailer Sincere Fine Watches has opened its newest Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) concept store in Pavilion Mall located in Kuala Lumpur prime shopping district. As the biggest of the retailer’s many stores, the new establishment will serve as Sincere’s flagship, not only in Malaysia but throughout Southeast Asia.  Covering 5,000 square feet, this boutique is dedicated to independent watchmaking, as all SHH stores are. Amongst the 17 brands on offer are Greubel Forsey and H. Moser & Cie. Alongside the watches is a private lounge with a bar, and an upscale dining area. The street-front facade with a custom LED screen An further expansion of the SHH concept Established almost two decades ago as a concept store focused on independent watchmaking, SHH is a vital part of Sincere, which was founded in 1954, making it Singapore’s oldest watch retailer. In 2020, fellow retailer Cortina Holdings acquired Sincere and revived the SHH concept, rolling it out in other markets including Taiwan and Thailand. The store is set to offer timepieces from 17 mostly independent brands, including Parmigiani Fleurier and Ferdinand Berthoud. The offer, however, is diverse, ranging from the classical to the extravagantly modern with Jacob & Co. And limited editions crafted specifically for SHH Kuala Lumpur will be released in due time, as was the case with its boutique at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands. The boutique’s interiors are embellished in gold and copper tones to e...

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Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Nov 28, 2023

Historical Landmarks in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places”

In the Les Cabinotiers collection for 2023, titled “Récits de Voyages”, Vacheron Constantin draws inspiration from its historical international expansion for Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places” – a quartet of unique timepieces, each featuring a micro-sculpted gold dials inspired by significant architectural landmarks in cities across Asia as well as Vacheron Constantin’s home of Geneva. Initial thoughts As a collection, Les Cabinotiers embodies the quintessence of haute horlogerie, placing a distinct focus on crafting highly decorated timepieces for those who exclusively pursue the highest standards in watchmaking and artisanal craftsmanship. Though these unique creations are not entirely novel – Blancpain debuted a series of similar watches several years ago – it is truly delightful to witness the brand consistently surpass conventional expectations and create wearable works of art for the wrist. Among the four timepieces, a standout is the model featuring the entrance gate to Angkor Thom in Cambodia. The brand’s engravers have meticulously replicated every detail, capturing the foliage and serene visages of the past rulers of the Khmer Empire atop the temple. This intricate work is accomplished through hand engraving in various shades of gold.  The choices of landmarks – namely two in China, one in Cambodia – no doubt reflect the brand’s client base. While it could be seen as a little incongruous to feature Geneva among these Asian wonders, it st...

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Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon Nov 28, 2023

Intricately Nuanced Green in the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon

Christened “Récits de Voyages”, the Les Cabinotiers line-up for 2023 is all about captivating narratives told through unique timepieces, each recounting the historical expansion of the brand across diverse geographies. One of them evokes the mid-19th century when Vacheron Constantin forged its first commercial ties in China, reflecting the profound significance of the country for watchmaking in that era. The Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery “Dragon” pays homage to that historical relationship. This extraordinary timepiece features a grisaille enamel dial in green – the technique almost always relies on greys and blacks instead – that showcases the mythical five-clawed dragon, once the symbol of the Chinese emperor. The artisanal enamel dial is contained within a case fully set baguette-cut diamonds, alongside one of the thinnest self-winding movements ever, the cal. 1120. Initial thoughts The dial of the Les Cabinotiers Dragon showcases the grisaille technique that offers a distinct, high contrast and a clear focus on the mythical subject. Departing from the conventional grisaille approach of a monochromatic palette of greys, Vacheron Constantin opted for a unique twist by employing shaded green enamel to depict the majestic dragon. The colour manages to give the dragon more life than compared to a traditional black-and-grey grisaille dial, while still retaining the discreet elegance that is characteristic of the technique. The result is remarkable and...

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Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges Nov 27, 2023

The Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges in Aston Martin Racing Green

Born from the official partnership between Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin, the Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition, facelifts the entry-level mode of the watchmaker’s signature “Bridge” line. Drawing inspiration from the Aston Martin DB12 grand tourer, the new timepiece merges horology and automotive inspiration. Initial thoughts The origin of Girard-Perregaux’s “Bridge” collection is entirely classical, starting in the 19th century with the Three Gold Bridges tourbillon pocket watches that were made in tiny numbers (including one sold to the President of Mexico). The brand has modernised the line in recent years with the Neo Bridges and now adds to the mix a motorsport brand with a rich heritage, which further emphasises the sporty, contemporary nature of the design. The Neo Bridges fully embraces a forward-looking aesthetic, so the Aston Martin connection is natural considering the carmaker’s creations in the super-, hyper-, and concept-car space. Admittedly, the changes to the Aston Martin edition are largely cosmetic, but they are done well. I think this edition offers a more appealing and more functional look than recent editions like the Earth and Sky that had fewer luminous components on the dial. The only aspect of the watch that could be done better is the Aston Martin logo printed on the sapphire case back; I would have prefer a logo discreetly engraved on the rim of the case back. However, the Aston Martin connection brings with it an increase in ...

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Seiko Drops Nov 24, 2023

Seiko Drops a Pair of Retro Automatic Chronographs with the Speedtimer

Having expanded its range of chronographs with a homage to stopwatches and, more recently, new models inspired by the Kinetic Chronograph, Seiko now introduces a pair of vintage-inspired chronographs. The Prospex Speedtimer (SRQ047 and SRQ049) features a distinctively retro style reminiscent of the 1970s and sports a “panda” style dial but with a more compact case than its predecessor.  The “panda” SRQ047 is regular production while the “reverse panda” SRQ049 is a limited edition to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first Seiko wristwatch. Initial thoughts  Since its introduction in 2021, the Speedtimer had quite a significant design flaw – its bulky case, measuring over 15 mm high. Therefore, it’s highly gratifying to learn that the brand has opted to refresh the Speedtimer with a more traditional dial and a slimmer case size. Concerning its design, the new models evoke a sense of familiarity by featuring a more rounded case in contrast to the previous Speedtimer models. Furthermore, the brand has introduced a dash of colour to the “panda” style dial by adding an orange tip to the chronograph hands. The limited edition reverse panda model. However, it’s worth noting that the watch has a date window located between four and five. This feature seems somewhat out of place and could have been omitted for a more streamlined look. The standard production Speedtimer is priced at US$2,500, with an additional US$200 for the limited edition. The new mod...

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Rexhep Rexhepi Maximilian Büsser Nov 24, 2023

If You Missed It: Panel Discussions at Dubai Watch Week 2023

There was plenty to see and do around Dubai Watch Week 2023, which just concluded last weekend. Wandering around the glittering hall with showcases full of new releases, and you might run into Rexhep Rexhepi, Maximilian Büsser, and Kari Voutilainen. Punctuating all of this, however, were the insightful panel discussions that happened over the course of Dubai Watch Week (DWW), which was organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East. Covering a wide array of topics and including speakers from an even wider background, it was possible to dip in and out of these discussions throughout the fair. Luckily, they were all recorded and are now available on the DWW YouTube channel. So if you weren’t able to attend the show, or you found yourself stuck between one booth and the next, you can catch up on them at any time. Inside the exhibition hall of DWW The best session of the fair was undoubtedly the in-depth talk given by talented watchmaker, Stephen McDonnell that we quickly recommended in real time. Mr McDonnell provided incredible detail about his work and philosophy in a talk that summarised his horological mind. But we wanted to give some more highlights from across the programme beyond Mr McDonnell, as there is plenty to dig in to. Stephen McDonnell at DWW The first talk of the show focused on a hot button topic, the role of retailers and the allocation of popular watches. Moderated by British journalist Robin Swithinbank, it featured Moh...

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Longines New Legend Diver Nov 23, 2023

Longines’ New Legend Diver in the Old Size

Recognised by its distinctive dual crowns and an internal rotating bezel, the Longines Legend Diver pays homage to history while embracing modern enhancements. Already a mainstay of Longines’ reissue sports watches, the Legend Diver has undergone a transformation and now features a redesigned and smaller 39 mm case that faithfully echoes the original (while it predecessor was 41 mm). Initial thoughts The new Legend Diver carefully retains the vintage styling of its predecessor. Traditionalists will appreciate the absence of the date that was found on the prior version. The absent dial preserves the dial’s clean and uncluttered aesthetic. But the new Legend Diver is not just a remake. Inside is the cal. 888.6, an upgraded ETA calibre that stands out with a 72-hour power reserve and magnetic resistance that exceeds the ISO 764 standard by ten times thanks to a silicon hairspring. And the dial similarly retains the design of the vintage original, but is executed in a modern manner with two colours of Super-Luminova, green and blue. This not only adds a touch of excellence to the design but also enhances readability in low-light conditions. On its face, the downsizing to 39 mm may not align with the conventions of a tool watch, especially one conceived for diving. However, this shift in size caters better to daily wear and better reproduces the original’s dimensions. Unfortunately, the reduction in diameter doesn’t go hand in hand with a decrease in thickness, so the ...

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Hublot MP-15 Hublot unveiled Nov 22, 2023

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15

Hublot unveiled its fourth collaboration with the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. Demonstrating Hublot’s mastery sapphire crystal cases, the watch is the brand’s first central tourbillon in regular production. The MP-15 is a fusion of artistic expression and watchmaking, that pushes the boundaries of mechanics and design, with the nudging of Mr Murakami, who previously designed a pair of simpler watches for Hublot. Initial thoughts The MP-15 is an entirely new watch, from case to movement, that was constructed to embody  Mr Murakami’s signature style. It takes a fresh and playful direction away from the relatively tamer previous editions that were based on an existing model. First seen with the unique example produced for Only Watch, the latest collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami seamlessly combines Mr Murakami’s artistic vision with Hublot’s watchmaking proficiency, resulting in a unique and expressive watch.  Notably, the MP-15 is not as big as expected. It’s 42 mm in diameter but has no lugs, while the strap is narrow, making it suitable for both men and women. The Only Watch edition The MP-15 is more than a watch; it’s arguably wearable art. The retail price of US$316,000 certainly puts it closer to Mr Murakami’s creations than a wristwatch, even with the tourbillon. It is a very expensive wristwatch, but not so expensive relative to Mr Murakami’s art. Though this is a relatively lar...

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Cartier Explores Middle Eastern Influences Nov 21, 2023

Exhibition: Cartier Explores Middle Eastern Influences in Abu Dhabi

Focusing on the intersection of design and Islamic culture, Cartier, Islamic Inspiration and Modern Design has just opened at the Louvre Abu Dhabi. On show till March 2024, the exhibition underscores the significant influence of Islamic arts and culture on the design evolution of Cartier’s jewellery and objet d’art. The exhibition chronicles how Louis Cartier, the grandson of the brand’s founder, cultivated an interest in Islamic art in the 1910s. He enhanced the maison’s library and established a collection, providing likely inspiration for its designers in crafting Orientalist-style jewellery. Following this, Jacques Cartier, Louis’s brother, brought an added dimension into the mix by incorporating South Asian and Arabian styles and arts after his journeys to meet the brand’s esteemed clientele in those regions.  Jacques Cartier in the Middle East. Image – Cartier. To shape this narrative, the exhibition’s curators, Evelyne Possémé and Judith Henon, traced Cartier’s creative design process by showcasing the various influences and styles that inspired its creation. The exhibition displays over 400 artworks from Louvre Abu Dhabi, Paris museums such as the Musée du Louvre and Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and various public and private collections. It also includes various drawings, photographs, and other materials from the brand’s own collection. Prominent features of the exhibition include a stepped merlon showcasing floral motifs from Iran, dating ...

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Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref 30020 Nov 21, 2023

Fascinating and Landmark Complications at Christie’s Hong Kong

After seeing the fascinating timepieces made by independent watchmakers and the artistic highlights, let us now direct your attention to the notable complications in the Christie’s sales that take place on November 26.  In this compilation, we scrutinise nine noteworthy lots. Some items, like the Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar ref. 5516 and the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, stand out with their six-figure price tags, while others might escape attention but are still deserving of a mention. Examples include the contemporary Omega De Ville Central Tourbillon or a distinctive version of Montblanc’s 1858 Split-Seconds crafted for the Only Watch charity auction. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begin at 1 pm on November 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the second session (lots 2501-2639) offering watches from the OAK Collection at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lot 2223: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref. 30020 in platinum  The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar pays homage to the revered vintage reference 4261, capturing the essence of one of Vacheron Constantin’s most sought-after timepieces among collectors. Manufactured in 200 examples across two configurations, one with a traditional dial, as seen here, and the other skeletonised, the watch stands out as a coveted item in the current collectors’ market. Notably, only 77 examples, inc...

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