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Chronograph Watches · Page 162

Artisans de Genève Introduces the Lance Armstrong Skeleton “Daytona” SJX Watches
Dec 17, 2021

Artisans de Genève Introduces the Lance Armstrong Skeleton “Daytona”

Known for customised watches created for celebrity athletes, Artisans de Genève (ADG) has just revealed its latest project, the Armstrong. Based on a Rolex Daytona ref. 116520, the watch was commissioned by former pro cyclist Lance Armstrong. Though it looks thoroughly contemporary, it is modelled on the vintage Daytona ref. 6239 “Pulsations”, one of which just sold at Phillips for US$693,000. The vintage inspiration is literal, yet reinterpreted creatively. The Armstrong has been skeletonised and heavily modified, with both the hour register and automatic winding mechanism removed, resulting in an unusually minimalist watch. Initial thoughts Leaving aside Mr Armstrong’s chequered past – he was a cancer survivor and then multi-time world champion before getting a lifetime ban for doping – his namesake watch is surprisingly interesting. Although it is clearly modern in style, the Armstrong is vintage inspired – it is literally a manual-wind, “pulsations” Daytona. In that sense, it is actually a vintage remake with imagination. A significant amount of effort was clearly expended to get there, and the work appears to be of high quality. Doing away with large chunks of the movements feels drastic, yet the result is intriguing, both conceptually and visually. Or put more simply, it’s weird in a good way. The customisation is priced at about US$45,000, but that excludes the watch, which the client has to supply. It’s fair enough given the substantial work on...

Ralph Ellison’s Omega Speedmaster breaks the record for the most expensive 145.012 ever sold Time+Tide
Dec 14, 2021

Ralph Ellison’s Omega Speedmaster breaks the record for the most expensive 145.012 ever sold

As the home of watch culture, Time+Tide is always intrigued by how the niche world of horology and the broader milieu of culture impact on each other. We previously explored the effect of celebrity provenance on watches and the prices they fetch, but this past weekend at Phillips we once again saw a clear indicator … ContinuedThe post Ralph Ellison’s Omega Speedmaster breaks the record for the most expensive 145.012 ever sold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Raketa teams-up with The Limited Edition and Scottish Watches to present the Mars-3 Time+Tide
Dec 11, 2021

Raketa teams-up with The Limited Edition and Scottish Watches to present the Mars-3

Watches and the celebration of outer space have a long and intertwined history, most notably Omega with their Speedmaster joining NASA’s trip to the moon. But before all that, the famed “Space Race” between the Soviet Union and the United States was an international battle to reach the stars first. Raketa, which translates to rocket … ContinuedThe post Raketa teams-up with The Limited Edition and Scottish Watches to present the Mars-3 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour Time+Tide
Dec 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour

When someone hears “Omega”, the watch that pops into their head is invariably the iconic Speedmaster. Yet the brand’s dress watches are some of their oldest designs. Born in 1952, the Constellation line featured signature elements such as the fluted bezel and pie-pan dial that have subsequently made their way into three new Globemaster models … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic Time+Tide
Dec 9, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic

For many, myself included, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has been a consistent benchmark for  craftsmanship, artfulness, and bravery in watchmaking. Off the top of my head, I can’t even count how many records have been broken with these watches, including all the mind-boggling complications in wafer-thin movements that still maintain that Roman design foundation. In … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction SJX Watches
Dec 7, 2021

Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction

While the most high profile lot at Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is surely the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 made for the 170th anniversary of Tiffany & Co., there are a handful more watches in the sale that are notable for different reasons. One is unquestionably the tourbillon pocket watch George Daniels made for Edward Hornby in 1971 for its sheer horological merit. And another notable watch sits at the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of horological quality – it’s a standard Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch – but it is historically important, having been owned by Ralph Ellison, the novelist best known for Invisible Man. The 2021 New York Watch Auction takes place on December 11 1 (lots 1-81) and December 12 (lots 82-165) at 432 Park Avenue, New York. The rest of the catalogue is available here. Lot 102: George Daniels The Edward Hornby Tourbillon Pocket Watch One of eight similar watches, all equipped with a one-minute tourbillon, this was made in 1971 for Edward Hornby, a lawyer who collected watches. Made during the period of 1969 to 1973, the eight watches were the first of Daniels’ own creations. Almost all were made for English collectors, save for one that Daniels made for his daughter, Sarah Jane, and another for German chemist Thomas Engel. Named after its first owner like all the other watches in the series of eight, the Hornby watch is typical Daniels, and consequently, also very much Breguet in style. Entirely hand made by Daniels,...

Carl F. Bucherer And Caran d’Ache Celebrate Your Signature Moments With Limited Edition Watch And Pen Set Quill & Pad
Dec 3, 2021

Carl F. Bucherer And Caran d’Ache Celebrate Your Signature Moments With Limited Edition Watch And Pen Set

A watch or a pen is often a traditional gift for an important occasion. Signature Moments, the first collaboration authored by Carl F. Bucherer with Caran d’Ache, is all about remembrances of things past as well as hopes for the future. These two companies celebrate this with a collaborative limited edition watch and pen set, only 188 of which are available worldwide, comprising Carl F. Bucherer's Manero Flyback Signature timepiece and Caran d’Ache's Signature rollerball pen.

INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake Time+Tide
Dec 3, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake

As far as microbrands are concerned, Baltic is slowly reaching iconic status. There was a strong showing at this year’s Pink Dial Project auction for breast cancer awareness, research and cure. That was followed by Only Watch, where a proverbial who’s who of brands presented amazing offerings. Their Pulsomètre Chronographe Monopusher nearly tripled the high … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) Time+Tide
Dec 2, 2021

The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca)

Wear and tear often bolsters the appeal of a vintage watch. Picture a chronograph dial aged to a warm tropical hue, or a diver’s watch shadowed with caramel patina. Rather than signs of decay, such well-worn details are celebrated as adding character and authenticity. Like the laughter lines on an old man’s face, they’re testimony … ContinuedThe post The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Dec 2, 2021

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Review

What we love: Split Second Complication with 100m WR- Yes please!Open caseback displaying manual winding movement Beautifully laid out dial  What we don’t love: Thickness, some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Could do without cutout numbers on the dial (2,4,8 and 10)Due to the design of the top sapphire crystal glass, cannot see the tachymeter scale properly when looking directly at the dial  Overall rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 It’s not often you get a watch for a review and fall in love with it straight away! Well, for me this was the case with the new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph. Released a day earlier than the Watches of Wonders in 2021, Duograph is a part of the Premier heritage line. Originally released in 1943, Duograph is a spilt second complication that pays tribute to three generations of inventors – Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling. Breitling used the term ‘Duograph’ in 1940 which refer to the complication “Chronograph Rattrappante”. Design: Breitling Duograph is offered in stainless steel or an 18K Red Gold case. The case size is 42mm with a thickness of 15.3mm and lug to lug measurement of 50mm. The variant we are reviewing today is the stainless steel model with the sunray blue dial.  Duograph had a fixed bezel and the Cambered sapphire (glareproofed both sides) acts as a bezel on its own. This Sapphire crystal top glass has a thickness of 3mm which adds to the o...

Comments 4

  1. C. Almeida
    The framing here is frankly a bit off. A chronograph is hardly the most-engineered complication in Swiss watchmaking; that crown belongs to perpetual calendars and minute repeaters. That said, the automatic chronograph remains the most *accessible* complicated movement for volume producers, and that's a worthier claim. The 1969 reference is apt, though the real innovation happened years before.
    1. Ben W. replying to C. Almeida
      Fair correction on the engineering hierarchy. But I'd add: the "accessibility" angle gets muddied fast once you're actually trying to buy one. A Daytona or even a Tudor Chrono sits behind waitlists and AD games that make "accessible" feel like marketing speak. The movement's elegant, sure, but the secondary market lottery around these watches tells a different story about what buyers actually face.
  2. Reece
    thinking about getting my first chrono and this helped a lot. is a vintage automatic worth learning on or should i just grab something new first. also how much should i realistically spend.
    1. WristBuzz Team replying to Reece
      This all depends on your own feelings and what you like to spend. Pretty hard to answer imho.

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