Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1965 Rolex GMT-Master With Glossy Dial, A 1970s Patek Philippe Ref. 3525, And A 1960s Heuer Carrera '45'
Lighter on quantity but heavy on quality as always, HODINKEE Vintage is back.
Chronograph Watches · Page 163
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces the Titanium Collection for Perpétuel
Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel opened last year with its first limited edition, a pair of watches by Baltic. Now the French brand is once again creating a limited-edition series of watches for Perpétuel, the UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection. The three-piece limited edition is marks the first time that Baltic is using titanium for its cases, which have all been steel to date. And as is expected, the maker of affordable, vintage-inspired watches has customised the edition for Perpétuel’s home region, with all three watches having Eastern-Arabic numerals on the dials (as well as the bezel in the case of the GMT). Initial thoughts Baltic’s standard models are appealing because they have a simple, vintage-inspired style that’s nothing too fancy but still attractive, plus they are strongly affordable. The tweaks made to the designs for the Perpetual editions are modest but boost the charm of the watches. I especially like the HMS and Chronograph. While the sector-ish dial is a familiar vintage look, the two-tone finish is fairly novel and also striking. And the graceful calligraphy of the Eastern-Arabic numerals complement the design and colours well. The Eastern-Arabic numerals on the GMT bezel don’t work as well for me. One reason is stylistic – the simple forms of the hour markers don’t match the elegant Arabic script. And the other is functional since I am unfamiliar with the script so the bezel is difficult to read, which won’t be a problem for an...
SJX Watches
Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar
Launched in 2016, Globemaster Annual Calendar has remained under-appreciated, despite the distinctive design that combines several elements from historical Omega watches – most notably the “pie pan” dial of the Constellation – and perhaps more importantly, a practical complication. Originally available in the same muted colours as the base-model Globemaster, the Annual Calendar has been refreshed with dials in striking colours and in different metals, including a striking burgundy and of course an olive green. The burgundy dial in a two-tone case Initial thoughts The Globemaster Annual Calendar is an interesting proposition. The complication is unusual – it’s the only annual calendar offered by Omega – while the design is vintage-inspired but quirky. But the Annual Calendar has been overlooked perhaps because of the brand’s wide-ranging catalogue that is packed with more famous models like the Speedmasters, and also because of its old-school case design and restrained colours. So the new trio is certainly a good addition to the line, especially since each of the new colours are striking and relatively unusual. The olive-green version immediately stands out, not only because it’s the year’s most fashionable colour, but also the fact that the shade is perfect – it’s restrained but rich. And it’s in steel, which makes it the most affordable of the variants. Most interesting in terms of aesthetics is the two-tone version. The pairing of a burgundy dia...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince”
A pilot’s watch has long been considered a cornerstone of any well-rounded watch collection. And when you talk about flieger-type pilot’s watches, the International Watch Company is probably the marque that comes to mind, specifically, their Big Pilot. Well, the Big Pilot lineup just got bigger. If you’ve come this far, you probably know a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince” – with price and commentary
IWC Schaffhausen has unveiled the Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince”, the first Big Pilot’s Watch with a chronograph function.
SJX Watches
The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures Opens in L.A.
Rolex watches have long been prominent in cinema, particularly of the American variety, never as a result of a product placements but instead a choice of the performer or director. Neither has the watchmaker recruited actors or actresses as ambassadors – it largely concentrates on sportspeople, musicians, environmentalist, and directors like James Cameron and Martin Scorsese – though it is the official sponsor of the Oscars. But now the watchmaker’s support of the film industry takes tangible form with the newly-opened Academy Museum of Motion Pictures in Los Angeles, which was constructed by the same organisation that’s responsible for the Oscars. Rolex is a “Founding Supporter” of the museum, resulting in the Rolex Gallery on the building’s third level. According to Rolex, the space is dedicated to the “many aspects of moviemaking – technology, artists, history and social impact” and includes the “Paul Newman Paul Newman”, the Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 owned by the late American actor that sold for a record US$17.52 million in 2017. But in typical Rolex fashion – which means discretion to the point of secrecy – the watchmaker is nowhere to be found on the list of “Founding Supporters” of the museum. But there is a single “Anonymous” donor in the category of US$10-20 million donations, alongside Dalian Wanda Group, Steven Spielberg, and The Walt Disney Company. The art of cinema Located in Los Angeles, the Academy Museum is the first o...
Time+Tide
The CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph offers complex Swiss watchmaking at an accessible price
If you’ve always found yourself attracted to the highly technical mechanical movements produced by the upper echelons of Swiss horology, but have been put off by the sometimes staggering cost of entry, CODE41 would like to talk to you. The focus of the conversation would be the CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph, further pushing the … ContinuedThe post The CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph offers complex Swiss watchmaking at an accessible price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1966 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, A 1973 Rolex 'Daytona' Sigma Dial Ref. 6265, And A 1945 Universal Genève Field Watch
Gives thanks to the world of vintage watches this Thanksgiving Eve.
Revolution
Available in the Shop: How the Moonwatch made it to space, and why you need it on your wrist
The Omega Speedmaster is a certified icon, forever known as the Moonwatch. We highlight some of this legendary chronographs key moments, as well as some key models available in partnership with Watchfinder & Co.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: When Your Watch Becomes A Deserted Island Dilemma
Going full "Florida Man" and the latest high-flying chronographs from Breitling.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Contemporary Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Complicated watches naturally come at a high cost of entry compared with simpler watches, at least at retail. But on the secondary market they can offer compelling value – except for a handful of “hot” watches (and we included one of those in the list too). At the same time, complications are intrinsically appealing because they possess the sheer technical quality that’s a key quality of high-end watchmaking. And there A. Lange & Söhne is no doubt a standout, especially for its watches that are considered benchmarks in their category, like the Datograph and Zeitwerk. So we round up a few highlights amongst the complications at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, covering a few value buys and also some star picks by Lange. So the list is diverse, ranging from the ultra-desirable Lange Datograph Lumen to a Piaget tourbillon with a form movement that is technically interesting and definitely strong value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. The movement in the Datograph Lumen Lot 833: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen One of Lange’s trademark complications is the chronograph, simply because it does chronographs so well. It all started in 1999 with the Datograph. It’s still considered a landmark in modern chronographs two decades later for its fine, traditional construction. The model has been offered in s...
Deployant
Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph “Everest”
It was the 1970s and the emergence of sports watches is nigh. In anticipation of this trend, one of Switzerland’s most prestigious watch manufacturers, Vacheron Constantin, launched the Reference 222 in honour of its 222nd anniversary. The Reference 222 featured the aesthetic and technical attributes of sports watches and guaranteed 120 m of water resistance.Read More
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Maurice de Mauriac L3 Sees Red Chronograph exploits coloured sapphire crystal for dazzling effect
In the world of microbrands, it can be hard to stand out amidst the barrage of vintage-style divers and explorer’s watches. What isn’t hard to stand out with? A super slick minimalist chronograph that could seamlessly blend into a sci-fi franchise, with a bright red-tinted sapphire crystal that almost glows with a fiery malice. Maurice … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maurice de Mauriac L3 Sees Red Chronograph exploits coloured sapphire crystal for dazzling effect appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
From Zlatan Ibrahimovic to Mark Wahlberg: 8 celebs wearing the hell out of a Rolex Rainbow Daytona
Bit of an odd question but can anyone work out the relevance of the March 23, 2018? In a pretty baller move, on that day the football deity that is Zlatan Ibrahimovic was busy buying full-page ads in the Los Angeles Times to announce his signing for Major League Soccer’s LA Galaxy. The ad that read, … ContinuedThe post From Zlatan Ibrahimovic to Mark Wahlberg: 8 celebs wearing the hell out of a Rolex Rainbow Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong
Independent watchmaking may be the flavour du jour at auctions now, but there are still vintage watches worth paying attention to. Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale includes three of them, including an impressively crisp Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” (above) as well as the unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in platinum with sapphire hour markers – both of which will be million-dollar watches in US dollar terms (or ten-million dollars in Hong Kong currency). The last watch of the trio, a 1930s Tank Cintree in white gold, is the most elegant. And its seemingly new condition merits reflection: what is a skilfully and sympathetically restored watch worth? The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 819 – Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 “JPS” With the market for vintage sports watches having plateaued since it peaked in 2018 and 2019, prices have mostly softened across the board. That said, a handful of models still achieve impressive prices, most notably the Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”, or “JPS” for short. That’s because the solid-gold, manual-wind Daytona is an intrinsically rare watch – it is estimated that a few hundred exist as opposed to thousands in steel – and even less common with the “JPS” dial. Perhaps the most striking version of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the “JPS” nickna...
Revolution
Introducing the Hanhart Bronze 417 Chronograph Edition No. 2 “Copperhead” For Revolution & The Rake
The much sought after Hanhart 417 Chronograph for Revolution & The Rake returns in 39mm, the size of the original 1950s 417 model, with a new bronze alloy and a stunning brown sunray dial.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1970s Mathey-Tissot Chronograph With Tropical Dial, A 1970s Zenith El Primero In 18k Yellow Gold, And A 1960s Hamilton Alarm
Kick back, relax, and enjoy a piña colada – it's time to go tropical.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”
I’m pleased to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, a collaborative edition loosely inspired by the disco-era El Primero G383, but reimagined with lots of lume – the dial is disco at night and also in the day. Update: Sold out, thank you for the interest. A brief background Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because it’s historically significant for its chronometers and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the brand makes watches that are both appealing and affordable. So it was a no-brainer for me to work with Zenith – since it meant I could create my fantasy El Primero. One of my favourite vintage Zenith models is the G383, a truly funky watch with a design that is unmistakably of the late 1960s and 1970s – the dial is over the top and truly disco. The El Primero G383 of 1969 But a one-for-one vintage remake has never interested me (plus I’m not a fan of the tiny lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s head of product development, and together we spent several months refining the concept, creating the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”. (Full disclosure: The several months spent tweaking the idea produced more than one outstanding design, so a variant is a possibility.) At the same time, the Poker Chip will also be more accessible than our past editions. It’s as affordable as Zenith watches typically are – in fact it costs just 10% more t...
SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium
Resurrected two years ago with modern materials and tech, the Air Command was originally a 1950s wristwatch reputedly created for the US Air Force that was never serially produced, resulting in just a dozen examples made. With the success of the vintage-looking 2019 remake, Blancpain has followed up with the regular-production Air Command Flyback Chronograph in a modern palette, with a blue dial and a case in either titanium or red gold. Initial thoughts The Air Command reissue of 2019 was a hit. The 500-piece run sold out quickly and and now sells for slightly above the original retail price – a feat for a modern-day Blancpain. Unsurprisingly, Blancpain has stuck to the same successful formula with the new Air Command, which retains the same case and design, but manages to look quite different (and will no doubt feel different thanks to the case metal). The dial is finished with a “sunburst” brushing that gives it a metallic glint With its livelier colours, the latest version is arguably more striking than the original remake. At the same time, it avoids the pitfall of trying too hard to look vintage, as was arguably the case with the original limited edition. And the gold version makes sense as well. The Air Command is clearly a luxury-sports watch rather than a military-issue instrument, so 18k gold feels right at home with the design. For those who find titanium too dull or too affordable, the gold version is certainly the one to go for. Notably, Blancpain has...
Deployant
The alternative sports watch: Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527, new in Titanium case
The watch is an excellent offering from the brand, and is very appealing within the the dive/sports range chronograph segment. Overall, the watch looks great, and has a pedigree movement to run it. At a retail price of US$28,700 for 18K white or rose gold and US$18,500 for titanium, the watch presents a much welcome variety to the dominant Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore and Vacheron Constantin Overseas.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Two 1815 Chronographs From A. Lange & Söhne – Reprise
Can you imagine buying a watch bracelet and then searching for the right watch to pair with it? Seems a bit far fetched, but that’s exactly what a good friend of GaryG's did a few years ago. And it led to him purchasing two beautiful 1815 Chronograph models from A. Lange & Söhne.
Hodinkee
Auctions: A Speedmaster Owned By Literary Giant Ralph Ellison, Coming Up At Phillips
Will this make Ellison a more visible man to the watch world?
Revolution
Introducing Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph
Blancpain updates the 2019 Air Command with few upgrades that makes it nearly perfect sports watch.
Hodinkee
Four + One: American Fashion Designer Todd Snyder Let A Speedmaster Get Away
Safe to say he learned his lesson. See the watches he's holding onto - and the sweatshirt he can’t live without.
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