Hodinkee
Hands-On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075BH
This is what the Breguet Type XX should have been all along.
Hodinkee
This is what the Breguet Type XX should have been all along.
SJX Watches
Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin’s programme dedicated to one-off and special-order watches. The latest to emerge from the workshop is the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, a large, complicated watch with an intricate calibre and an unusually modern, clear sapphire dial. The look is more contemporary than usual for a Les Cabinotiers grand complication, thanks to both the sapphire dial with its off-centre displays and a monochromatic grey finish on the movement. An evolution (and stylistic upgrade) of the solid-dial Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds from 2022, the Temporis is underpinned by a base movement that features a minute repeater and tourbillon; on top sits a traditionally constructed split-seconds chronograph mechanism that is paired with the calibre in an unconventional manner. The layers inside the cal. 2757 S of the Temporis Initial thoughts Twenty twenty-five has been good for Vacheron Constantin in terms of complicated watches – the brand started the year with the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and has followed up with the Temporis. In comparison to the Solaria with 41 functions and a price tag in the mid-millions, the Temporis is simple and affordable, but still impressive. Though it is largely identical in terms of the movement to the 2022 model with a solid dial, the Temporis offers a lot more visually with its open dial. Though the look is modern – compare this to the baroque B...
Time+Tide
Coinciding with the 109th running of the Indy 500, TAG Heuer unveiled a trio of Monaco Chronograph watches.The post New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph x Gulf & Stopwatch at the Indy 500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Since the 1960s, the Yema Yachtingraf has always been a charming and colorful chronograph, especially with its regatta-style “big-eye” countdown sub-dial. If I told you the new version features a black dial, that might even sound a bit boring if you already know the white-turquoise-yellow and blue-red-white versions that are already available. However, did I […] Visit The Streetworthy Yema × Seconde/Seconde/ Yachtingraff Is Coming To A Port Near You to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Breitling has updated their SuperOcean Heritage Collection, and with a range of seemingly small but big changes, we’ve taken the time-only models and put them to the test! What We Love The case refinements across the range The small nods to the vintage 1957 model The new in-house B31 Calibre What We Don’t The overlapping of the rubber strap under the wrist Fewer choices when it comes to the colour combinations in rose gold The domed crystal can reflect the light on the darker dials a little Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Earlier this month, Breitling released the new look SuperOcean Heritage Collection with a suite of changes that, while looking like small incremental changes, all added up to noticeable differences across the entire range. We had a first look at these upon release, and were fortunate enough to get our hands on them for some time prior, so the whole team was able to see the changes themselves in person, and what they meant for the wearer of the new models. Sam and I flipped a coin to see who would review the time only and who would review the new chronographs. This was a coin toss with no loser, as each was a good a choice as any, and I scored the time only. So stay tuned for Sam’s review of the Chronograph in a few weeks time. Breitling’s New SuperOcean Heritage Collection Kicks Up A Swell! Initial Thoughts I’ve always said, press photos and renders don’t always do the wat...
Fratello
The Polaris Chronograph is available with a black or blue lacquered sunray dial and a three-piece blue and gray dial. Now, Jaeger-LeCoultre launches a new Polaris Chronograph with a dial in ocean gray. What? Another gray dial? Isn’t that a typo? Shouldn’t that be “ocean green”? Nope. The brand from Le Sentier might already have […] Visit Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre Launches A New Polaris Chronograph With An Ocean-Gray Lacquered Dial to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s no secret that the visuals of a watch are often why collectors pull the trigger on adding yet another piece to their collection. It could be a specific color, the inclusion of a certain desirable bezel insert, the symmetry of a double register chronograph, or many other aesthetic reasons. This isn’t to say that the movement and build quality are not also a part of this decision-making process, but one of the chief reasons many of us love to collect is for the joy we feel putting one on wrist, potentially matching it with an outfit, and gawking at it throughout our busy days. What I wish to do here is move away from this mindset and instead appreciate how mechanical ingenuity can produce the same amount of excitement and allure. This Lanco Alarm watch may seem relatively lackluster at first glance. A simplistic silver case and dial with very few flashy or notable design choices, it could be easily mistaken for dozens of watches and brands who sold timepieces in the 1960s and 70s. Its most interesting characteristic is perhaps what’s most unremarkable on any other vintage dress piece: the use of a single crown. By the 1960s, brands like Vulcain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Poljot, Girard-Perregaux, Citizen, Bulova, and Helbros had released their own alarm watches, many of which utilized movements made by outside movement manufactures like A. Schild and Venus. The common denominator between these models and movements was the two crown layout: one typically adjusted and wou...
Time+Tide
A splash of blue there, a dash of movement customisation here...The post Laco brings a contemporary splash of Blau to the Kiel.2 flieger chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First released in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection was designed to reintroduce a sports range alongside the brand’s classical Reverso and Master lineups. Deeply inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris dive watch with its alarm mechanism, there was more to the collection than just this complication, as the brand also released some pretty attractive chronographs. […]
Time+Tide
Textures, shadows, and many layers of lacquer. The post Jaeger-LeCoultre brings its hot Ocean Grey dial to the Polaris Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
My Speedmaster “Ed White,” 10 years older than my car, made the trip almost untouched. I can’t say the same about my Land Rover, which left me behind three times due to fuel-delivery issues. Otherwise, it was one beautiful trip full of dust, off-the-grid gravel roads, majestic views, jokes on walkie-talkies, dreaming in the forest, […] Visit Retrospective: Lost In Bosnia With A Land Rover And An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Montblanc flexes its Minerva movement muscle with a rich red rattrapante chronograph.The post Montblanc’s new limited edition 1858 Split Second Chronograph dresses in red as a homage to its Minerva roots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Eska may not be a well-known brand, but this revived Swiss watchmaker is gaining attention among enthusiasts. Initially founded in 1918 by Silvan Kocher (whose initials inspired the brand’s name), Eska built a reputation in the mid-20th century before succumbing to the Quartz Crisis in the 1980s. Reborn under the direction of Christophe Chevreton and […]
Monochrome
Founded in 2016 by Sébastien Muller, Brellum has consolidated a portfolio of well-built chronographs with a slightly vintage aura powered by chronometer-certified movements. With a limited production of around 299 watches a year, Brellum’s policy of direct sales allows the brand to keep its prices in check. The Pandial collection highlighted its racetrack credentials with […]
The post Photo Report: 60 Years of the Speedmaster and Spaceflight appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
If you’ve been paying attention to Tudor over the last few years, you know that a key component of their release strategy has been to drop unexpected dial colors into catalog staples at seemingly random intervals throughout the year. We’ve seen this play out with the Black Bay Chronograph multiple times, with pink and blue editions released unexpectedly and quickly allocated to collectors. Today, Tudor is trying something similar with the Black Bay 54, their most compact version of the Black Bay dive watch. The new Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is more than just a dial variant, as it represents the first expansion of the Black Bay 54 line since it was introduced two years ago with a straightforward black dial. The first follow up after a hit watch is always an interesting bit of trivia for those of us who consider ourselves watch nerds. This release echos the blue dialed version of the Black Bay 58, which was perhaps even more of a sensation than the original when it saw a surprise release in the early days of the pandemic. Until this ywar’s Watches & Wonders, when a red 58 was launched, those two references somewhat surprisingly made up the entire Black Bay 58 collection. Time will tell if Tudor is quicker to produce new variants of the 54, but this version exists as a nice counterpoint to the debut. The “Lagoon Blue” dial has a light, almost turquoise-like tone, along with the familiar Snowflake handset and lume filled hour markers. The dial has what Tudor des...
Fratello
We’re back with the latest release from Brellum. The new Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE is a nautically inspired chronograph available in two case materials. Brellum may be a small brand, but buyers can expect a finely finished watch with a flourish of details. Plus, the customer service experience is unique and often includes founder […] Visit Introducing: The Brellum Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
For the first time since 2017, Breitling is refreshing their Superocean Heritage collection. This line has always been something of an under the radar gem. Breitling of course is known for their pilot and aviation themed watches, which run a wide gamut between classical (the Navitimer) and tech-forward contemporary (all of the ana-digi releases through the years). Divers (or “sea watches” as they’re referred to in the latest press materials) seem a little outside the brand’s wheelhouse at first blush, but of course as an historic maker of tool watches, it makes sense to dip into this ultra competitive genre. The Superocean Heritage has always felt like one of the more tasteful vintage inspired sports watch lines, and while they aren’t discussed as frequently as something like the Black Bay family of watches, the collection has always had its fans and the watches themselves are undeniably refined and capture exactly the vibe they intend to. This is a full refresh that seems to be focused squarely on variety and appealing to a broad segment of the “sea watch” market. The new Superocean Heritage models come in a total of four sizes: 44mm, 42mm, 40mm, and 36mm. In addition, there’s a Superocean Heritage Chronograph that comes in at 42mm. The 40mm+ three-handers all use the still new B31 caliber, Breitling’s first exclusive three-hand manufacture caliber. Dials across the collection can be had in black, blue, and green. All feature color matched ceramic be...
Fratello
If we polled a large group of die-hard watch fans and asked them to associate a word with Breitling, the answer would be something like “pilot” or “chronograph.” However, if we were to run the same experiment among the general populace, a surprisingly different answer might emerge. It turns out that diving and, in particular, […] Visit Introducing: The Revamped Breitling Superocean Heritage Collection to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Breitling Superocean Heritage has been around since 2007 and stands as one of the brand’s most popular offerings due to its classical, vintage-inspired design and broad range of size options. The collection was updated in 2017, with the Superocean Heritage II, and in 2025 we have gotten the third major update to the collection that now includes improvements throughout as well as the use of the B31 movement. And perhaps most appealing is the long-awaited introduction of a 40mm case size. While Breitling refers to the Superocean Heritage as a “Sea Watch,” these are all as robust and resilient as any dive watch. There are a total of six watches in the new Breitling Superocean Heritage collection, all of which have 200 meters of water resistance: the 42mm chronograph outfitted with the manufacture Caliber 01; three time-and-date models in 40mm, 42mm, and 44mm case sizes outfitted with the B31 movement; and a 36mm time-and-date model outfitted with the Caliber 10 automatic movement. The sixth is a special limited edition done with surfer and longtime brand ambassador Kelly Slater, who co-designed a 40mm model. Before getting into these models, let’s discuss what’s new overall for this update of the Superocean Heritage. The Updates And Changes First off, you’ll notice the sharper hour markers and especially that new 12 o’clock marker, which has a circle with a sharp index cutting through it - a throwback to the original Superocean. I think this will likely b...
Monochrome
It’s that time of year when gentlemen drivers fine-tune the motors of their classic and vintage racing cars in preparation for the iconic Mille Miglia endurance race. Chopard, the official timing partner of the Mille Miglia since 1988, enjoys one of the most enduring partnerships between a watch brand and a motorsports event. Celebrating its […]
Fratello
Today on Fratello, we’re sharing the story of how two adventurers crossed Antarctica on foot in 1989. One of those men, Reinhold Messner, wore an Omega Speedmaster on his wrist during the journey. Traversing a vast expanse of ice, snow, and howling winds is no small feat. Antarctica is one of the starkest landscapes on […] Visit Crossing Antarctica With An Omega Speedmaster to read the full article.
Revolution
SJX Watches
SJX recently visited Vacheron Constantin and sat down with Christian Selmoni, style and heritage director, and head of speciality watchmaking, Jean-Marie Bouquin, to discuss the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch yet made. Mr Bouquin led the development of Solaria, and assembled it, creating a wristwatch that’s a worthy follow-up to the most complicated portable timepiece ever, the Berkley Grand Complication that was launched just last year. That in turn broke the record set by Vacheron Constantin in 2015 with the ref. 57260 “Tivoli”. They discussed the intricacies and innovation in the Solaria, including its modular “plug and play” perpetual calendar, and the implications for future Les Cabinotiers projects, as well as the novel star-tracking chronograph, and the benefits of using silicon for the spokes of the balance wheel. They also touched on the absence of a grande et petite sonnerie.
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