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Tuesday, May 5
De Bethune After Dark: the DB27 “Night Hawk” SJX Watches
De Bethune After Dark 44m ago

De Bethune After Dark: the DB27 “Night Hawk”

Massachusetts-based retailer EsperLuxe represents many leading names in independent watchmaking, and has just collaborated with De Bethune to create the DB27 Night Hawk. Based on the Titan Hawk V2, the Night Hawk is a 10-piece limited edition with matte-finished blued titanium lugs and a secret meaning expressed in its star-studded titanium dial. Initial thoughts De Bethune is quite unlike other contemporary independent watchmakers. Majority owned by The 1916 Company since 2021, De Bethune nonetheless appears to operate much as it did prior to the acquisition, serving as a vehicle for co-founder Denis Flageollet’s prodigious creative output. The Night Hawk exemplifies De Bethune’s unique perspective, which fuses in-house technical watchmaking with a science fiction-inspired aesthetic. It’s a difficult balancing act, but the brand has amassed a devoted following by staying outside industry norms for design and decoration. A creature of the night The Night Hawk is a variant of the DB27 Titan Hawk V2, which debuted in 2018 as the brand’s ‘entry level’ model. Naturally, that term is somewhat out of place in the world of low-volume watchmaking, but it nonetheless brings many of the brand’s signatures within reach of a wider segment of collectors. One of those signatures is heat-blued (or purpled) case elements, including the Night Hawk’s blued titanium lugs, which are part of a hinged exterior case frame that articulates from a spring-loaded hinge on each side o...

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: Horological Renaissance In The Age Of Cosimo I de’ Medici Worn & Wound
Tudor England 1h ago

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: Horological Renaissance In The Age Of Cosimo I de’ Medici

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. Cosimo I de’ Medici (1519–1574), the first Grand Duke of Tuscany, is remembered as a masterful statesman who unified Florence’s power. Yet behind his political authority lay a profound curiosity for the sciences, especially the study of the heavens and the measurement of time. The Medici family rose to power in Florence primarily through their wealth and strategic use of the Medici Bank, which became the largest and most powerful bank in Europe during the 15th century. They leveraged this financial power to influence Florentine politics, eventually establishing themselves as the de facto rulers of the city, although they maintained the appearance of a republic.  They used their wealth and influence to transform Florence into a leading capital of trading and a place for the greatest creators to work and develop incredible scientific instruments, such as the clock in the Cathedral of Santa...

Introducing – Panerai Gets Technical with the New Submersible GMT PAM01495 Monochrome
Panerai Gets Technical 4h ago

Introducing – Panerai Gets Technical with the New Submersible GMT PAM01495

While Panerai strayed on the safe and relatively accessible side of things at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, with historically inspired designs, vintage details, and clean displays (see the Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732), the brand’s latest release sits clearly on the other end of the spectrum. Big and bold, highly technical, modern looking […]

Hands-On With The Kiwame Tokyo Mune — Raising The Roof In Style Fratello
Kiwame Tokyo 6h ago

Hands-On With The Kiwame Tokyo Mune — Raising The Roof In Style

Kiwame Tokyo launched two new models, and I got a chance to go hands-on with them. Meet the Kiwame Tokyo Mune in two colorways. These watches subtly nod to Japanese roof architecture. As I tend to be skeptical about thematic watches, my first thought was, “Do these hold up if you strip away the backstory?” […] Visit Hands-On With The Kiwame Tokyo Mune — Raising The Roof In Style to read the full article.

Introducing – The new MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition, with Enamel Dial Monochrome
Meistersinger Unitas 1Z Edition 8h ago

Introducing – The new MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition, with Enamel Dial

Time does not need to be dissected into seconds to be meaningful. This distinctive idea has been essential to MeisterSinger for 25 years. The brand’s single-hand watches deliberately slow the reading of time, changing the focus from precision to perception. To mark its anniversary, MeisterSinger looks back at one of its earlier and most important […]

Hands On: Victor Kullberg Tourbillon Pocket Chronometer SJX Watches
Patek Philippe worldtime ref 2523 10h ago

Hands On: Victor Kullberg Tourbillon Pocket Chronometer

Phillips’s upcoming sale The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII is packed with spectacular watches, including some already well known to collectors like the extra complicated La Royale by Louis Audemars, an unsual Patek Philippe worldtime ref. 2523, and the Golay Fils & Stahl astronomical watch. But among the finest is a simple watch that tracks only the time and state of wind, yet is comprised of several hundred parts: Victor Kullberg No 6583. Behind those three hands is a one-minute tourbillon equipped with an Earnshaw detent escapement, a massive free-sprung compensation balance, anti-magnetic helical balance spring and reverse chain and fusee, making it one of the most elaborate three-hand watches imaginable. Even at its high estimate of US$102,000, this pocket chronometer amounts to something of a steal, especially in an auction where multiple steel sports watches carry much greater estimates. The cult of the chronometer Swiss and English horologists disagreed on a great many things, from the ideal shape and material of escape wheels to the definition of a chronometer. To the Swiss, the title of chronometer was bestowed based on merit as a timekeeper. Any watch could be one if it kept good time, especially with a trusted, independent attestation of its accuracy. Watches submitted to observatory trials — or tested according to the ISO 3159:2009 standard today — are chronometers by this reckoning. England was dominated by the cult of the [marine] chronometer, unsurprisin...

A Hands-On Introduction To The Updated Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Collection Fratello
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Collection It’s 10h ago

A Hands-On Introduction To The Updated Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Collection

It’s unbelievable to see how Christopher Ward has grown over the past decade. The brand evolved from an enthusiasts’ favorite to one of the leading affordable brands in the industry. The rapid growth has been backed up by an ongoing string of new releases that never cease to impress. But Christopher Ward has been around […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Updated Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Collection to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 26 Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces 21h ago

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 26

There are a small handful of events where you just know you’re going to see new watch releases. Watches & Wonders, obviously. Our own Windup Watch Fairs, as well. And, as of late, missions to space of one kind or another tend to inspire brands with watches themed to space exploration, usually in partnership with organizations that have a stake in the mission. Oh, and F1 weekends in the United States. You can pretty much count on at least one of any number of brands tied to an F1 team to uncork something as interest in the sport peaks around races in one of our local time zones.  This past weekend saw the return of the Miami Grand Prix, and right on cue Tudor was ready with a new watch to mark the occasion. This one, the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 26 is a direct follow up to last year’s Carbon 25, and like that watch is also a bit of a coproduction with Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team. Tudor began their partnership with the team relatively recently, in 2024, and have already released two limited edition watches, as of this weekend.  The Carbon 26 sees Tudor returning to the carbon fiber Black Bay Chrono case introduced last year, but in an updated dial color. This one borrows from the yellow, black, and white livery of the VCARB 03 car, with a white main dial, black subdials, and yellow accents throughout.  The case remains the same, measuring 42mm in diameter with a fixed tachymeter bezel along with screw down pushers and crown. It has the familiar lines of a Black ...

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch Hodinkee
Tudor Monarch It ain't always 22h ago

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch

It ain't always Black Bays and Pelagi at Tudor. At least, not all the time. Since the brand returned to the U.S. market in 2012, Tudor's success has been rooted in the broad appeal of watches like the Heritage Chronograph, the Pelagos, and, of course, the Black Bay. These are heritage-coded, conventional watches that nailed the price point, specs, and aesthetic demanded by the enthusiast market at the time. In the preceding decade, we saw that formula become a playbook as the Pelagos and Black Bay evolved into increasingly specific slices of that original concept. But what about the Tudors that fall outside of the playbook? Remember the North Flag or the Fastrider? What about the Black Bay P01? While the playbook has successfully executed moves for left-side crowns, silver cases, and channel lugs, not all of the brand's explorations into other formats have been smash hits. And it's not merely a question of having a historical footing, sure, the North Flag and Fastrider were quite modern, but the P01 was a functional deep cut from the brand's archives. As a watch brand, a music act, heck, as just about anything in our oh-so-branded world, it can be hard to operate outside of "your lane". That can include what is actually your lane or what has become your lane in the current context of a given brand's media. For 2026 at Watches and Wonders, Tudor stuck to the playbook, offering refinement, additional specs, new bracelets, and the like – except for one watch, the Monarch. A...

Recap – The Integrated Bracelet Watch Trend Keeps Going Strong, With Tons of New Models Presented at Watches & Wonders 2026 Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur GP Laureato 23h ago

Recap – The Integrated Bracelet Watch Trend Keeps Going Strong, With Tons of New Models Presented at Watches & Wonders 2026

A category defined during the 1970s by a handful of models that all became proper icons of the industry – AP Royal Oak, PP Nautilus, VC 222, IWC Ingenieur, GP Laureato, to name a few – the luxury sports watch or integrated bracelet trend made a strong comeback about 10 years ago. Not only did […]

Announcements: Hodinkee Australia And New Zealand Is Live Hodinkee
Yesterday

Announcements: Hodinkee Australia And New Zealand Is Live

At Hodinkee, we have always believed that watch collecting is a global language, but one that is spoken with many different local accents. From the paved paths of Geneva to the neon-lit boutiques of Ginza and the steamy streets of New York City, the love for a mechanical heartbeat remains the same, yet the way we live with our watches is shaped entirely by the world around us. Today, we are thrilled to announce the next chapter in our journey: the official launch of Hodinkee Australia & New Zealand. The ANZ watch community has long been one of the most sophisticated and passionate in the world. For years, we've watched from New York as the Aussies and Kiwis became some of our communities' most ardent enthusiasts, known for a taste profile that is as rugged as it is refined. To bring Hodinkee to the region, we have partnered with Switzer Media + Publishing. With over 30 years of history, Switzer is one of Australia's most trusted names in media, already stewarding iconic titles like Harper's BAZAAR, Esquire, and Men's Health. This partnership functions as a local element from day one.  Speaking from my own perspective, with the continued success of Hodinkee Japan, I'm thrilled to be working with Jamie and the team at Switzer Media to offer a more locally relevant and engaging edition of Hodinkee for watch enthusiasts across Australia and New Zealand. The watch community in Australia and New Zealand is engaged, highly knowledgeable, and always an active part of the global c...

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva SJX Watches
Yesterday

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva

During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like AHCI and Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town. Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Stowa Introduces the Field Watch Terra Collection Worn & Wound
Tudor Yesterday

Stowa Introduces the Field Watch Terra Collection

Far from the splashy and blingy arenas of the dive and dress watch world, the humble field watch nevertheless represents a key corner of every watch enthusiast’s heart. Versatile, wearable, and most importantly, durable, the field watch is getting its time in the sun with new releases from big brands like Tudor and Sinn, but it’s also remained a stalwart hero of the microbrand world. Straddling that gap is the German brand Stowa, who has been making mechanical watches since 1927. Known largely for their Bauhaus designs, their Fieldwatch collection occupies a more recent niche in the brand’s history. The new Stowa Terra Fieldwatch designs are keeping that adventurous spirit going.  Three new colorways debut with the Terra designation: Soil, Forest, and Desert. Following the field watch mantra of “less is more” each Terra model measures in at 38mm in diameter and 11.50mm in height to make for a relatively effortless wear on the wrist. Across the three models, the case is stainless steel and finished in a gray PVD coating for a tactical look. The Soil model sports a brown dial, with the Forest and Desert featuring “khaki” green and beige respectively. All three colors are muted and earthy, contrasting with the red minute markers around the minute track, a red Stowa icon below 12 o’clock, and the red-tipped seconds hand. In classic field watch fashion, there is no date window, and an inner 24-hour ring adds even more concentricity to the dial.  Black steel ha...

Introducing: The Vanguart Orb Pink Ceramic (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Vanguart Yesterday

Introducing: The Vanguart Orb Pink Ceramic (Live Pics)

What We Know If there's a young brand that's certainly made an aggressive push in the realm of industrial-aesthetic haute horlogerie, it's Vanguart. Mark Kauzlarich told the brand's founding story last year, highlighting a team with an absolutely stacked resume in high-end watchmaking. So today, we're taking a look at the brand's newest take on its second watch, the Orb, with its newest treatment—pink ceramic. It's a unique offering in the space, certainly due to its all-pink livery, but also thanks to its collaboration with retailer Material Good for this 25-piece limited edition. The Vanguart Orb Pink Ceramic's exclusivity with the retailer is probably no surprise, given the large push by Material Goods' Yoni Ben-Yehuda to promote the upstart brand through its sales channels. Here, what was originally an aggressive machine in black and silver gets toned down in shades of powdery pink thanks to the inclusion of colored ceramic within the 41mm by 10.5mm titanium case, seen in both the side of the case as well as the function selector pusher in the crown (more on that in a little bit). The accent extends onto the openworked dial of the watch, which is more a three-dimensional city of components that puts the flying tourbillon on full display. The handset, skeletonized and filled with lume at the ends, sits above everything else. Though telling the time probably isn't the strict mission of the Orb, a nicely decorated minutes track sits between strips of pink, color and tex...

Introducing – The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase Skeleton in Steel & Blue Monochrome
Union Glashütte Yesterday

Introducing – The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase Skeleton in Steel & Blue

The latest evolution of the Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase moves from classical to a more technical, contemporary appearance. One of the brand‘s most recognisable models, this new version introduces an openworked dial and a fresh “Steel Blue” colour, bringing modern dynamism and versatility to an otherwise familiar watch. The Belisar line has always […]

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